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The most important thing is to find a complete 7MGTE motor with ALL related components.

I would suggest to negotiate with a wrecking yard that can find you a reasonably low mileage MK3, that 1) you can see and hear, and 2) that has ALL the related components installed that you can remove.

The most straight forward swap is to find a 7MGTE that is from a manual transmission car that does not have ABS. Arguably, the 89's and later are supposed to have a better ECU, but that's only what I've heard.

You should inspect the motor. If you don't know what to look for, then you need to contact a mechanic that has worked on Toyota engines, especially one that is familiar with the 7MGTE. Just dropping it in the car would be a real gamble.

Buying piece parts is not a good idea unless you are *very familiar* with the 7MGTE and diagnosing it. There are alot of sensors and wiring that you could spend countless hours trying to diagnose.

Buying a $500 7MGTE that has problems is a money pit.

What's needed from the donor MK3

Engine Parts

• Engine, complete with the engine wiring harness to the ECU, ECU, alternator, power steering pump, AC compressor bracket, and AC compressor if you want to have AC lines made.
  
  
• Air Flow Meter
  
  
• Fuel Injector Resistor
  
  
• Ignitor
  
  
• Fuel pump relay and resisitor (not necessary, unless you get the 7MGTE fuel pump - more on that later).
  
  
• MK3 fuel pump (optional)
  
  
• Factory cat exhaust flange that is bolted to the turbo exhuast elbow. You will need this when you get the downpipe fabricated, if not getting the Random Technology 3" flange.
  
  
• Intercooler and all related IC hoses. The 87/88 fender hoses are supposedly to fit better, but since I had a custom pipe made, I can't detail how to install the factory tubes.
  
  
• Alternator wiring complete to the fuse box.
  
  
• Brake booster hose, complete from intake manifold to brake booster. There is a boost restriction valve on it that you absolutely need.
  
  
• 7MGTE upper radiator hose
  
  
• Rear engine heater to water valve hose. Also, a standard 5/8 heater hose can be used.
  
  *Note: these are all pictured/documented in the Toyota manuals.
  
  Connectors
  
  
• If getting a 87/88, there are three connectors. B1, M1 and the dash cowl connector that plugs into the ECU.
  
  
• For a 89-92, just the B1 and M1 connectors and as much wiring as you can remove.
  
  New Parts
  
  
• Clutch, Pressure plate and throw out bearing for a 7M NA. I can not suggest what ones to use other than get one that is better than stock. Don't forget to have your 5M flywheel inspected and resurfaced! If you have an automatic, I'm not familiar with them in a 7MGTE conversion.
  
  
• MSD tach adapter or similar. The 8920 part number is what you want.
  
  
• Down pipe - You can leave this to your muffler shop or see the links to where I bought mine.
  
  
• Air Filter - You'll need a short one to fit inside the MK2 engine compartment. The HKS Super Mega air filter fits well.
  
  
• Cressida 7M oil fill tube and dipstick.
  
  
• Rebuild parts. The 7M is slightly more difficult to work on, so replacing the gaskets, seals, timing belt, etc is a very wise idea before you install the motor.
  
  
• Oil filter relocation kit. Required due to IC plumbing and the location of the front passenger side motor mount. I installed just the filter for installation until I could determine the remote oil filter plumbing.
  
  Custom/Fabricated Parts
  
  
• Custom welded oil pickup tube. Some have used the 5M oil pump and pickup tube, but the 7MGTE is a high volume low pressure unit designed for turbo cars. It's to help transfer heat from the turbo bearings.
  
  
• 85 oil pan. This has a windage tray for preventing oil from foaming.
  
  
• You'll need to grind off some material from the MK3 AC compressor bracket rear bolt hole. Use the 5M AC bracket as a template to get the proper alignment.
  
  Optional Parts
  
  
• ARP head bolts. They are better than stock. The studs are even better, but a real pain to install.
  
  
• Metal Head Gasket - highly reccomended for higher boost applications (15+ PSI) YOU WILL MOST LIKELY NEED THE HEAD AND BLOCK RESURFACED.
  
  IMPORTANT NOTE: Not all machine shops can produce a smooth enough finish to install a metal head gasket. Most will use a blanchard cutting machine that will leave flycut marks in the head and block. Installing a MHG on this type of finish will be not provide sufficient gasket sealing.
  
  
  

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