View Full Version : rod bearings
05-27-2003, 12:02 PM
i am going to be replacing the rod bearings on my 5mge and i wanted to knwo if their is anything else that i should get to replace while i'm at it and have the engine apart and all that kinda stuff reason i'm changing the rod bearings is because their was a knocking noise and it's gotta be the rod bearings so i've decided to change them and was wondering if theirs a list of other things that i should have cheaked out and/or changed after i put the rod bearings in before i start the engine up again most likely going to change all the gaskets and everything like that and wat else should i change or take a look at before i put the engine back to gether and start it up??? the noise appeared after engine ran very very low on oil more oil was put in but went to more of a thumping noise wandering what should be replaced beside rod bearings?????
05-27-2003, 01:20 PM
Punctuation is a good thing. :wink:
How many miles are on the engine? I would at least check out the main bearigs as well.
05-27-2003, 07:52 PM
their is about 160,000 miles i think on this engine thats what the speedo said and i'm almost positivie it's all original last owner did some work on it but i know it's the same engine and yeah i don't like using puncuation lol it takes to much time lol. <----- period lol.<--- well i think i'll cheak the main bearings also i think i probally should just change both sets the rod and main bearings just to get them both brand new and all that kinda shit well thanks for the info.<---- lol
05-27-2003, 08:18 PM
You should take your crank and rods to a machine shop to be checked before just replacing bearings. Reason is when a bearing goes it can wear the crank and or rod surfaces out of round.
05-27-2003, 09:17 PM
so just take down the crank and the rods the actual rods to the machine shop and ask them how the look or just ask them how much it will cost to fix and then go from their and then replace the bearings either way i'm going to replace the bearings
05-27-2003, 09:35 PM
I know your trying to do your car as cheeply as possible... but really, the bottom end of your motor is the one part where scrimping will only hurt ya in the long run. My recomendation, is take the block to a machine shop and have them go over it, and make sure everything is ok. They can replace the bearings, and if anything is out of spec, they can correct it for ya, and make sure that everything is spot-on perfect for ya.
05-28-2003, 12:11 PM
about how much money would it cost to get it cheaked and replaced bearings and also put stuff back to spec though i know it's not going to be cheap but an estimate would be nice lol. and how long does it usually take a machine shop to get all that kinda stuff done and able to be taken back???? well any info is helpful.
05-28-2003, 10:42 PM
How far have you disassembled this engine? Is it still in your car? How long did you run it with low oil and oil pressure? The reason I ask is that if you ran the engine for any length of time without good oil pressure then you may have caused premature wear on other engine parts as well. A good automotive machine shop should be able to tell you what shape the engine is in and give you an estimate before doing repairs. If the crank and other parts are badly damaged then it might be more practical to rebuild the complete engine or find another one that's in better shape.
05-29-2003, 12:06 PM
i was thinking of just completly rebuilding the engine it's actually what i plan on doing but thanks for bringing to my attention that their maybe other wear on other items i havn't dissasembled the engine at all really it's sitting in a garage i'll be able to take a look at it but not tear any of it apart today or anything but i should be able to start tearing it apart soon but only problem is i do not have an engine repair stand to work with so it's gonna be a little harder to get to the bottom end i really need one lol well let me know of any other info thanks
05-29-2003, 03:41 PM
I paid about $750 for the block work, rings and bearings. The machine work included cylinder hone, line bore the main and rod bearings, polish crank, deck the block to mirror finish (for MHG). I paid another 100 to deck the head and have the valves lapped (they only had 20K on them since 3 way grind).
The connecting rod and main bearing surfaces were machined to the exact specs of the clevite bearings the shop ordered (Blueprinted?).
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