View Full Version : RUST! How to prevent or remove?
05-17-2005, 03:37 AM
I'm thinking about purchasing an '85 Supra but I've read in another threat that rust is a big issue with this car.
What can be done to prevent, avoid, and remove rust?
I was just surfing around Google and came up with a few sites that sell rust removal/prevention products...are these worthwhile?
The Rust Store (http://www.theruststore.com/)
Rust Bullet (http://rustbullet.com/index.htm)
Rust Doctor (http://www.therustdoctor.com/)
POR 15 (http://www.por15.com/)
JC Whitney Rust Converter (http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product?storeId=10201&Pr=p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2000778&TID=8014524&productId=2000778&catalogId=10101)
Chassis Saver (http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp)
7G Rust Remover (http://mightymeagan.fscstore.com/index.cfm?locale=1&shopping=displayproducts&UserName=mightymeagan&DisplayName=Meagan%20Blanchard&shoppingCategory=A0010¤tpage=2)
Interstate Rust Killer (http://www.interstateproducts.com/rustkiller.htm)
Guide to Prevent Rust (http://www.innerauto.com/Automotive_Definitions/Rust_Prevention/)
usually when we say rust we dont mean little bit of rust, we mean big rust.
good example is my 82:
http://img68.echo.cx/img68/9207/dscf09408pg.th.jpg (http://img68.echo.cx/my.php?image=dscf09408pg.jpg)http://img85.echo.cx/img85/7205/dscf09381kv.th.jpg (http://img85.echo.cx/my.php?image=dscf09381kv.jpg)http://img85.echo.cx/img85/4803/dscf09397ec.th.jpg (http://img85.echo.cx/my.php?image=dscf09397ec.jpg)
but sometimes you get lucky.
and to repair it you need to cut out all of the rust and replace the metal.
05-17-2005, 03:49 AM
(thread has been moved to appropriate section)
05-17-2005, 10:11 AM
POR 15 is well known and respected as a rust stopping/prevention product. It has multiple steps and when done correctly it works great. Rust Bullet is newer and has been getting awesome reviews because it works well and is much easier to use. There's discussion right now on the Grassroots Motorsports magazine forum right now as to which product is best.
05-17-2005, 02:18 PM
So if there is little/no rust on the supra I can apply these products and it'll prevent rust?
Or if there is already rust I can apply these products and it'll remove the rust?
I guess I just want to hear that I don't have to worry about rust.
05-17-2005, 03:33 PM
If there is no rust on the Supra, don't mess with anything. Just keep it clean and dry. If there is a little rust here and there, be wary when you purchase it. Early models especially can rust from the inside out. If you buy a car that has a little rust, these products can be applied over the rust to stop it. They don't remove it really, they just stop it from spreading.
You don't have to "worry" about rust. You just need to know what you're up against. The back hatch, sunroof and rear quarter panels are rust prone. Sunroofs and hatches bolt on and can be replaced but the rear quarter panel takes some serious work to repair it correctly.
For an 85 Supra, the back hatch shouldn't rust like the earlier ones did. They improved the seals and stuff on it to rectify the design problem. Most likely, you will find surface rust where the fiberglass spolier contacts the hatch in the lower corners. The spoiler rubs through the paint causing the metal to become exposed. It's fixable and a good product like POR 15 can be painted over the rusty area to fill the hole and stop the rust.
05-17-2005, 06:02 PM
ALL rust products work on the same principle of converting iron oxide to iron phosphate, i.e. Fe2O3 or one molecule of "rust" plus two molecules of H3PO4, "phosphoric acid" yeilds two molecules of FePO4 or "iron phosphate" and three molecules of H2O (water of course). The beauty of this chemical reaction is that "iron phosphate" is stable and bonds to the surface of the iron whereas the "rust" was unstable and did not bond. Water is a by-product. The only difference between any of the products is in the additives that stop or slow the chemical reaction after some time has elapsed because the acid also reacts with the bare iron and given enough time and enough molecules, would in essense dissolve your cars sheet metal (tho the reaction with bare iron is so slow that it could take months if not years - the reaction with rust is very fast, however, taking only minutes.) To make use of any of these, however, you must first grind away as much rust as possible using sanding disks, wire wheels or sandblasting. Because the phosporic acid only reacts with the rust that it touches, the last thing you want is to form an iron phosphate barrier on the surface with rust still underneath. After applying the de-ruster, remember that iron phosphate, while stable, is not as strong as the original material and you need to coat it with something or otherwise prevent it from getting wet there again. POR15 and similar products take care of that by combining the deruster with a surface coating. Some products use other types of acids but the chemical reaction and the resulting compounds are similar. The disadvantage of other acids are tho that they tend to react much faster with the bare iron and will dissolve your car much quicker.
05-17-2005, 07:13 PM
dang pdupler you know lots about rust!
05-18-2005, 12:23 PM
He's owned alot of Supras too ;)
05-18-2005, 02:05 PM
dang pdupler you know lots about rust!
That's why he's Dr. Phill
05-24-2005, 06:19 PM
Are there ways to rustproof a car to prevent any rust?
If apply POR15 or RustBullet in rust susceptible areas beforehand will it prevent rust?
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