AEM pnp for 89 p/n 30-1130

[MWebber]

This is on an `89 MKIII, but the concepts are the same as would be the procedures for a MKII swapped 7M.


Mods over stock:

Fully rebuilt 7M-GTE (balanced, blueprint, etc) with all forged internals.
MHG
Complete head rebuild w/ oversize valves
polished(slightly) ported and gasket matched
720cc - 2 Ohm Denso injectors.
HKS GT30-40 ball bearing turbo.
AEM tru-time cam gears
AEM pnp 30-1130 EMS converted to speed density.
- 3.5 bar MAP
- AEM IAT
- AEM UEGO Wideband external controller using both 0-1v and 0-5v to ECU.

_____________________________________
Installation:
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Remove all piggyback controllers.
The 1130 is pnp (for 89-92) so remove the stock ECU and replace with the AEM unit.

Connect the laptop via serial cable.
Calibrate Throttle (No more feeler gauges to set the TPS!!!!!)
Calibrate Timing (two man job, one with timing light, one on laptop)

The car should now fire and run well enough to pull itself on a trailer to go to a tuner/dyno. AEM's startup calibration is VERY conservative, so it will be running rich.

This set up will use the stock MKIII AFM and all toyota sensors.

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Converting to Speed density:

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Install AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor.
Install AEM IAT (Intake Air Temp)
Install AEM External UEGO wideband and controller

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Wiring:
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Wideband (p/n:30-2301 single channel):

weld wideband bung per AEM instructions and your use. Install wideband and run wires to the ECU area.

1: Connect red wire to 12vdc switched
2: Connect black wire to battery ground
3: Use supplied connector, attach orange (Lambda #1 0-5vdc) and push into the OEM harness connector at pin B14 (AEM EMS pinout)
4: Connect white wire (Lambda #1 0-1vdc) to cut wire at B6 (AEM EMS pinout) There is already a wire in this location, cut back away from connector ~3 inches or pull connector and do as #3 above.

The wideband is now physically and electrically connected.

3.5 bar MAP sensor:

Drill and tap intake plenum (REMOVED FROM THE ENGINE) for 1/8 NPT thread and install.

1: Connect Red wire to OEM(blue/red) 5vdc power supply for the AFM
2: Connect Black wire to the OEM ground (brown) for the AFM (do not use the sensor ground, there are two ground wires in this part of the loom. use the ground that is NOT connected to the coolant temp sensor)
3: Use the remaining AFM (light green/red) wire for the sensor wire, remove pin from original location and connect at 17A (AEM EMS pinout)

The 3.5 bar MAP sensor is now physically and electrically connected.


AEM IAT (Intake Air Temp sensor):

weld bung to IC pipe after the turbo. (this project was drilled and tapped for 3/8" NPT in the HKS crossover pipe (replaces 3000 pipe to catch heatsoak).

Connect one black wire to 3B (AEM EMS pinout) using the IAT wires from the AFM plug.
Connect the other black wire to B9 (AEM EMS pinout) using the sensor ground.

Both of these wires were run to the appropriate pins on my project.

The IAT is now physically and electrically connected.

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Software:


using AEMPro goto:
Sensors --> manifold pressure sensor --> wizard
Sensors --> Air Intake Temp sensor --> wizard
Sensors --> Oxygen Sensor --> O2 Sensor #1 --> wizard

The above three need to be set to the correct sensors. When setting the MAP sensor, the EMS assumes you are no longer using the AFM and removes it's signal from the configuration.



After this, it's basically back to tuning.

Although there were some other build issues going on at the time, here's a pic where you can see the MAP sensor and IAT installed.
http://www.masupras.com/boostking/boostking%20014.jpg

Mike

[SilverMk2]

Sounds like my setup, except with a smaller turbo. There's no need to tap the intake for the map sensor. I just teed of the vac line on the back of the 7m manifold vac line. The IAT should also be after the intercooler (not turbo) as well.

[MWebber]

Sounds like my setup, except with a smaller turbo. There's no need to tap the intake for the map sensor. I just teed of the vac line on the back of the 7m manifold vac line. The IAT should also be after the intercooler (not turbo) as well.

No offence, but tee-ing in the the MAP sensor is just lazy.

The IAT can be anywhere after the turbo so it is able to compensate for the heat generated buy the turbo. Although, you are right in the after IC inasmuch it would be deadly accurate of the actual air temp entering the engine.


Mike

[BillyM]

...the reason they stick it after the intercooler is so you catch the resultant heatsoak when you've been sitting still. Someone on the MS forum did some logs, and the difference from launching off the line at 2500rpm after a 1min pause (redlight) and cruising on the hwy at 2500 and rolling on it was a 15% VE correction on the fuel trim and over one degree of advance.

...as for teeing the map, some people get better result by doing this since it can eliminate some of the fluctuations of the backwave smacking into the far wall of the manifold. (most oe applications design for this, most DIY users will just slap it anywhere on the manifold, and if it happens to be somewhere the waves build in the manifold, you can get some spikey map readings) When you tee off, it puts the volume of the vacumme hose and the soft rubber sides in the path of those waves, which soaks em up amd smoothes it out if they are present.

Good info though, I'd love to play with one.

...I wish there were a definitive MS writeup like that...

--BillyM

[MWebber]

...the reason they stick it after the intercooler is so you catch the resultant heatsoak when you've been sitting still. Someone on the MS forum did some logs, and the difference from launching off the line at 2500rpm after a 1min pause (redlight) and cruising on the hwy at 2500 and rolling on it was a 15% VE correction on the fuel trim and over one degree of advance.

...as for teeing the map, some people get better result by doing this since it can eliminate some of the fluctuations of the backwave smacking into the far wall of the manifold. (most oe applications design for this, most DIY users will just slap it anywhere on the manifold, and if it happens to be somewhere the waves build in the manifold, you can get some spikey map readings) When you tee off, it puts the volume of the vacumme hose and the soft rubber sides in the path of those waves, which soaks em up amd smoothes it out if they are present.

Good info though, I'd love to play with one.

...I wish there were a definitive MS writeup like that...

--BillyM

I did look at the backwave problem and that's why I put it where I did, there should be minimal fluctuations going there. I'll still be looking at the sensor logs to determine if it's the best place for it in the plenum.

I meant to say something about heat soak in the last post, sorry if I confused. should have read: "compensate for the heat generated buy the turbo and heatsoak" or there abouts.

Mike

[SupraFiend]

Nice, AEM rules in every catagory over MS, SDS, etc... except price. But I think PnP and the ability to convert back to stock is worth it, they're not that much. I should mention to those who might not realize it, but there is an 87/88 AEM PnP ecu as well. I can get them up here for around 1700cdn new, not too bad.

Hey standalone experts, how does speed density and map sensors and such handle elevation and air density changes and such with MS and AEM? I know Duane's tune with his Tec2 changes when he goes down to Vegas and such. I've always figured thats why manufacturers stick with air flow meteres instead of map sensors, they handle elevation and air density changes better. Supposedly Honda's, which are pretty much all map sensor based from the 90s up, get around this by measuring the air density before start up and make tweaks to the maps based on the ambient air density (measured by the map sensor?). However you have to shut the car off and turn it back on for it to update to the current elevation.

[BillyM]

...yea, its not a definite "if you mount it on the manifold you will get spikes" but more of a "if you get them, try T-ing off with a length of hose" Also mentionable, is that it is sometimes best to mount IAT sensors in the pipe before the TB instead of tapped into the plenum itself, as the plenum is usually directly mounted metal-on-metal to the head, which will cause the housing of the sensor to warm up and throw off the result. Best option is tapping into an IC pipe before the TB, as it is isolated from the heat of the head with a silicon coupler.

Fiend, that's how the MS does it (checks on start-up), but with the MSNS-extra firmware loaded, you can rig a second map sensor that just runs to the open ambient air and send it to one of the spare inputs, this will check in real-time for elevation changes. Its funny to think about, but on a map-based car, elevation changes are seen as lower densities by the map sensor and adjusted for, the VE complications you get is actually the exhaust being more easily able to exit the system due to the lower outside pressure... just seems funny in how outlandish it sounds, but as true as it is, I never woulda guessed such a thing would have such an effect...

--BillyM

[SupraFiend]

Cool, nice to know. Thanks Billy. I imagine AEM does somethign similar then.

[Junkie]

P-N-P AEM/EMS not going out to the shop for PN,but 89+.

7mgte.550's,lexus afm,yadda yadda ;)

Plugged it in Friday night,for a liitle testing.Car would start,not idle,could kinda make it run with a little throttle."Mike,conservative is an understatement"

Since I have the S-AFC set up to transfer between cars :D I plugged IT back in,car would then idle,though AF was still 11.5-12.1 "at idle,OMG "

Played with the timing,set at crank with t-light,set perimeters on ECU to 10 "in map" ended up with 10.2* according to live feed at Laptop.

If I unplug the AFC,it dies,period,goes way rich.


So,running on the AFC,we took a test drive,just around the block "no----NOT the test loop" Under load,pig rich down low,lean as hell above 3k.

What I find strange......... hit the "test loop drive" and at cruise,with AFC plugged in,we were "a bit" lean,just a little.Unplug the AFC,and at cruise,it went even leaner "wtf-afc is set to lean it out" and just died.Plug back in,drive home.

Still felt good,knowing we can make it run.But knowing what I do now,P-N-P means,the ECU plugs in,and may or may not run the car ;)

Putting the stock set-up back in until I can spend a day just tuning.Will work on idle and around town cruise at first.Still have to wire the WB to the ECU also for datalogging AF in WB mode,but with the digi display hooked up,that's not a priority yet.

<---- figured I'd toss out what we have going on here :D

[MWebber]

Junkie,

lol, good you've got it running. "Conservative" I think meant for 440 and an otherwise stock system. Even with the 550/lex deal, from what I understand, it's close enough for the stock computer to run it pretty well. Once you get everything set, you can use the autotune function ( I assume you have the AEM UEGO wideband also) to get things pretty close before you take it to the dyno and do the wide open stuff.

Thanks for the info, seems there's only two of us going at this.


Mike

[Junkie]

Yep,running the AEM wideband,but need to run the wires to the ECU.Installed the WB when I put the car back together "stock" ;)

It WILL NOT idle w/o the AFC hooked up at this time.Spent some time looking at maps yesterday,head started spinning,decided I needed a break,LOL.Working on to many different cars right now,feel a bit over my head in work.

With all I have going on,dyno tuning will either be June,or Oct./Nov. ..... or...... This time next year.I'll fill ya in in a week :D

[MWebber]

lol, I had to pull about 45% fuel out to get it to idle. you'll probably have to pull ~20%. I didn't figure up the numbers and all that, it's just a guess.

you can highlight the fields with the left mouse button, then right click on highlighted section, and drag up or down to increase or decrease, respectively, fuel.

I feel obligated here to say be VERY careful doing this.

Mike

[Junkie]

you can highlight the fields with the left mouse button, then right click on highlighted section, and drag up or down to increase or decrease, respectively, fuel.

I feel obligated here to say be VERY careful doing this.

Mike


Yep,played with that feature in the timing map.Figured I'd play with something that I could change just a little,just to get the feel of it.

And yes,I'll be VERY careful.Probably start with 2-5% adjustments.I'd rather take 100 hours to get it right,than build another engine at this point :eek4dance:

[Crazy_Tycoon]

did you guys ever get the aem's working good ? I've got a line on a plug and play on sale and am thinking of going this route since my engine has no emissions components

[Junkie]

Never finished it CT. And Webber won't be responding, LOL.

That's a project I need to get back to. Car is back with it's owner .... out of sight, out of mind :D

[Crazy_Tycoon]

Junkie man I need some help with the wiring or something with this engine, I'm getting really frustrated/exilerated all at the same time and its messing with my head. Your not that far from me for a drive down, do you have a Saturday handy some weekend ?

[Junkie]

I'm sure I can make a sat. work. I do work some, some I have off ... not sure about the next couple yet. I'll PM you when I find out what the next couple look like ;)

[Crazy_Tycoon]

thanks man, I really appreciate it!