Lots of Questions on Headers, LSD Rear end,coilovers, paint,etc

[romulus]

Finally found how to post a thread. Ok, experts here goes. I got an 84 P in 1999 for 4k, after looking for over a year. Most were beat to hell. This one was in super condition. Only thing I don't like is the color. Red is a chick color. I'd love to paint it midnight blue with green pinstripes and a green supra logo on the hatch. So far, I've put a Jacobs Ultra Coil and computer on it, a K/N filter, Amsoil oil, blue Taylor Thundervolt wires, the perfect looking tires, Yokohama Avid STs, FlowMaster Hushpower II and Maxspeed stainless mufflers, Alpine head and equalizer, Mb Quart speakers and McIntosh Amp.
I just want to confirm a few things with you all. I'm considering the Thorley ceramic Try-y header. The guy said it's smog legal and would be $411.00. Is that true and is it a good price? Is it totaly safe without heat shields. It won't fry the plastic intake? Will it be much louder or about the same as the stock manifold.
When at rest, when I shift (it's an auto) the car slams hard. There is no shift kit in it. It feels like the rear end. There is no clang, so I don't think it's the U joints. I've read that the LSD rear in the MKIIs were made with too loose. Could this be the problem? If so, would the Rabidchimp true track Limited Slip Diff. cure it?
Is it true we are stuck with just a few brands of shocks and struts? I'd love a beautiful set of Kei Offices. I checked Groundcontrol but they didn't list any for the MKIIs. I e-mailed them but haven't got a response. I guess that leaves us with Koni. I don't want KYB or Tikico, if I can help it from what I've read in reviews. (rust and leaking) I'd love as many responses as possible to this post. Thanks guys

[Dangerous Ken]

The ceramic coated Thorley is a good price at $410.
I think around $400 was what just a 'painted' one was going for so be sure to confirm both the finish (physical inspection) and whether it can be gotten period. Reason I say this is because a couple of vendors have tried to get them in (from Thorley) with no luck.

Whether the header is ceramic coated or not doesn't matter. Meaning the ceramic coating can withstand 1200-2500 degrees doesn't stop the header from getting hot and your plastic intake will melt eventually. Wrapping the header does seem to work better in keeping the radiated heat down, but then it's not that nice shiny header...

The header will be louder than the stock manifold. If you want to lower your noise floor best is to put double soundproofing in the rear wheel well and rear seat / hatch area. I took my rear seats out and I could clearly hear drivetrain, wheel bearing and tire noise. Good for diagnosing which tire is quieter than another, and hearing your exhaust so that whole area would be good to soundproof if you are after hearing your stereo over hearing your car.

Ken

[Darrow]

When at rest, when I shift (it's an auto) the car slams hard. There is no shift kit in it. It feels like the rear end. There is no clang, so I don't think it's the U joints. I've read that the LSD rear in the MKIIs were made with too loose. Could this be the problem? If so, would the Rabidchimp true track Limited Slip Diff. cure it?

I think your problem is either the u-joint or the differential r&p teeth.
If the u-joints are bad you will also notice a vibration while driving in addition to the slack in the drive train.
I think the most likely cause of the drive line slack is the ring and pinion teeth in the differential. I have an 85 manual and it is doing the same thing and it is my diff. The trutrac by itself will not fix the problem, but when you have some one install the trutrac into your diff they will adjust the slack in the gears to spec. So, no the trutrac will not fix your problem but having it installed will, if that make any sence. you can get away with having the diff freshened up with new bearings and such and it will take the slop out of the drive train.

Hope that helps and welcome to the board.

[Supracress]

Wrapping the header does seem to work better in keeping the radiated heat down, but then it's not that nice shiny header...

Ken

I would stay away from that header wrap stuff. It tends hold moister in and rot away the headers. I don't know about the platic intake melting with headers (I wouldn't doubt it does) but rabidchimp.com makes a nice mandrel bent intake pipe to replace the ugly platic one. Also, if you have or plan on dressing up the engine bay with silicone hoses, the 2-3 hoses closets to the headers will melt. I replaced those with stock hoses and they seem to be fine.

[CJSREDPRA]

I would stay away from that header wrap stuff. It tends hold moister in and rot away the headers. I don't know about the platic intake melting with headers (I wouldn't doubt it does) but rabidchimp.com makes a nice mandrel bent intake pipe to replace the ugly platic one. Also, if you have or plan on dressing up the engine bay with silicone hoses, the 2-3 hoses closets to the headers will melt. I replaced those with stock hoses and they seem to be fine.

Has been proven that the plastic intake WILL melt w/ uncoated headers. Coated, you might be able to get away with it, but why deal with the plastic intake piping when you can upgrade to a RC intake pipe instead.

BTW, it has been documented here several times that if you do use header wrap on the Thorley's, you WILL VOID their warranty.

[romulus]

Is there any difference between the RC true track diff. and the stock factory LSD diff.? Which is preferable? Is there a giant price difference? My 84 has 189k miles on it, the diff. doesn't make any noise that I can tell. Do think it would be better to go for Rabidchimp's whole diff. rebuild package for $9 hundred something? Two of you say things will melt, so what is the solution? Do I fab up some shields or get a custom intake pipe and replace hoses more often? All that extra heat would be counterproductive to the intake right? Are any of the custom intake pipes, ceramic or teflon coated to resist heat and corrosion? Which is the best brand to go with in your opinion's. Please include a ballpark price.

[BuddyJ]

Chimp Intake is ceramic coated and $190.

http://www.rabidchimp.com/mk2sup_rcp_intakepipe.htm

If your diff is working currently, you don't need the True Trac. It's a great replacement for worn out factory diffs or for people who need a stronger rear because they're pushing higher horsepower from a boosted setup.

[romulus]

Ok, but is it a different design or the same only beefier?

[SilverMk2]

The true trac is gear driven LSD and the Toyota LSD is a 2 pinion clutch type LSD.

[romulus]

Are there any drawbacks to the True Track? If not, it sounds like it's the one to get. Do any of the other parts in the diff. have to be changed to match the True Track?

[SilverMk2]

Read the true trac thread at the top of the drivetrain section for a list of parts and how to install it.

[Norbie]

The only drawback of the TrueTrac (or any helical-type LSD) is that it becomes an open diff if one wheel lifts off the ground. In reality this only happens very occasionally, for example when negotiating a steep driveway with low stiff suspension you can momentarily lose traction. Apart from that the TrueTrac is very good and I can't fault it after owning one for nearly 3 years.

[SupraLee]

Sorry, one little question in here. How about for drifting? Is the true trac ideal?

[Norbie]

I'm far from an expert on the drifting "scene", but from what I understand most Takumi wannabe's don't like torsen type LSD's. It would appear that a 2-way clutch-type LSD wound up ridiculously tight is the weapon of choice.

I read an interesting quote about drifting the other day. "Drifting was invented by people who don't know how to drive. They just got really good at it."

[Paidroe454]

Hey Rom here is a good web site you can go to so you can see and understand the diffrence between clutch and gear L.S.D. the web site is www.howstuffworks.com