beat to s&$# test 5m vs 6m

[NashMan]

well right now i am in the mist of maken a mk2 rally car in stead of just throwing snowies int eh back ect any way


i know for fact that the 5mge is freaking bomb proof and this is what i need so 7mge will not cut it plus i don't need that power and it's alot of dick fucking around

any way's

is 6m tough eghough to take beating of a life time it has longer strok i knwo that this is why i am asking that is one fo the reson why 7m's blow one of the reson akak rod nock the other is cause of the crappy as oil pan/pickup

ps this car will see red line and will bonce off it all the time

[CELICA XX]

No motor is tough enough to take a "beating of a life time."

[NashMan]

welll i see that this qestion is far to complocated for the avge guy

[Junkie]

welll i see that this qestion is far to complocated for the avge guy


With that f'n remark,who wants to answer you anyway :duh: ^blocked

[Paidroe454]

There isn't a motor out there that could take a beating like that. Maybe you should stick to riding a bicycle or the bus. People that abuse their cars like you do not appreciate or deserve their vehicles. Quit bitching and get used to rebuilding your motor all the time or learn how to take your big ass foot off of the gas pedal.
I think your own question is far to complicated for you to understand why a motor can't take that kind of abuse.

[CELICA XX]

Ohhhhh.... you got told by a guy who joined 8 days ago.



Well done, Paidroe454.

[joefoe]

5m! 6m is proly just as strong but a wast of money for an extra .2L disp. A strong 5m is all you need to spin the tires anyway. Plus we already know it will never leave you stranded.

[scorpmatt]

Plus we already know it will never leave you stranded.

I detect sarcasm in that

[Donn29]

guys haven't you seen his 'Killing a toyota' Video, that was hillarious!!
Just don't blown anything in good shape up!

[spamalope]

if your only looking to be consistantly beating motors into the dirt, just swap in a Junkyard 5m and slam it untill it blows, repeat as needed. Keep oil and water in her and romp those grave yard 5m's.

[WadeT]

welll i see that this qestion is far to complocated for the avge guy
http://www.fototime.com/79EBCA2FF3F49DB/orig.gif

[BuddyJ]

^^I love that pic!

[NashMan]

hahah your funny i know nothing about car's in any way nothing at all

and the reson for this qestion is i have found a 6m very close to me and wounder if ti is worth trying to get

ps i make 2 smashed car's some times 3 into one working car. i can get 5m's we have some at work but most of them are smoker's and this is for my rally car so it going to get beat up so they wonte do


i know joefoe buddy has a 84 motor and might just get that one but how pimp whould it be that i can say JDM motor insaid heheheh

all so pick up a super charger off a austin mini today so i may just swap that on a 5m or do old over played ct26 mombo





There isn't a motor out there that could take a beating like that. Maybe you should stick to riding a bicycle or the bus. People that abuse their cars like you do not appreciate or deserve their vehicles. Quit bitching and get used to rebuilding your motor all the time or learn how to take your big ass foot off of the gas pedal.
I think your own question is far to complicated for you to understand why a motor can't take that kind of abuse.

[NashMan]

dame teh super cooper charger is not that good of shape oh well

any one have ford super coupe charger looked on ebay choudl not find one i knwo one guy did this befor but i think he used a diffetn charger

[Jack Daniels]

ok my spelling and sentace structure isn't always that great... But please use spell check man.

also i agree with an earlier post if your going to beat them go get yard 5m's they are cheep easy to come by and last a good while befor busting. don't waste your money on a good motor if your going to be pinging the redling all day you will never be happy with it cause you will always be fixing these motors with how you want to use them.


ps if you want a redliner buy an RX7 they love the buzzer.

[williamb82]

hmm, i used to peg the redline alot in my 85 after the engine was rebuilt. did this in 1st-3rd on a reg basis. never had any issues with it and the nengine is still goin strong last i saw the guy i sold it to. he beats on it as well. i say go wit hthe 5m for this though, seems tol ike the redline alot better then the 7m. 6m is juts a 7m with 5m head afterall

[Jack Daniels]

hmm, i used to peg the redline alot in my 85 after the engine was rebuilt. did this in 1st-3rd on a reg basis. never had any issues with it and the nengine is still goin strong last i saw the guy i sold it to. he beats on it as well. i say go wit hthe 5m for this though, seems tol ike the redline alot better then the 7m. 6m is juts a 7m with 5m head afterallthey are also the cheepest to replace if they do break maybe 200 for a fairly good one

[WadeT]

ok my spelling and sentace structure isn't always that great... But please use spell check man.


lol...
sentence

[joefoe]

^^ sooooo funny! How is your glass house holding up there Jack Daniels? LOL

Ryan I did a little research and found that the crank is to blam on some of the 7m's relability issues and since the the 6m uses the 7m crank I'd just stay away from them. 5m it is!

[drftsupramk2]

^^ sooooo funny! How is your glass house holding up there Jack Daniels? LOL

Ryan I did a little research and found that the crank is to blam on some of the 7m's relability issues and since the the 6m uses the 7m crank I'd just stay away from them. 5m it is!
Haaaaaaaaa you did it to *blame

[NashMan]

^^ sooooo funny! How is your glass house holding up there Jack Daniels? LOL

Ryan I did a little research and found that the crank is to blam on some of the 7m's relability issues and since the the 6m uses the 7m crank I'd just stay away from them. 5m it is!

yes that is correct but i was hopping the front sump pan whould help alot but the more i think about it the more the 5m is better choice


hell i was wounder this every day you did donut in you car why has it not got rod nock type of dealio i think the front sump pan is great batter if i was back sump but that will never fit in any supra mabye mk3 but it make the front sub frame all mushy and shit


ps after see your cam's do you think you top end had some oiling issues or just to many gee's yo

[NashMan]

oh short note installed cresta spring's on my car today and umm wow she freaking truck to much hight stiffer thou but to much rool

so off they come

[Chrisfrom1986]

Hey nashman, just cut them. Then they will be lower and even stiffer.

[CarFreek]

From what youve said, 5M is better choice-HOWEVER-Keyway problem is worse on 5M, In my experience, And crank is same length, so crank differences are negligible in PURELY physical terms-Different engines, different problems leaves decision based on Money/Avail-Out drops 6m and 7m-5m it IS-Have Fun - My sister, who is dyslexic, had a sign on desk at one point "Dylsexics of the world, UNTIE"

[NashMan]

From what youve said, 5M is better choice-HOWEVER-Keyway problem is worse on 5M, In my experience, And crank is same length, so crank differences are negligible in PURELY physical terms-Different engines, different problems leaves decision based on Money/Avail-Out drops 6m and 7m-5m it IS-Have Fun - My sister, who is dyslexic, had a sign on desk at one point "Dylsexics of the world, UNTIE"


it's manly the stroke\oil pan and sump combo that cause's 7m's to nock

cause remmber there is 2 cranks 6m and the 7m the 7m crank is much smoother and has less chnace of getting rod nock cause of it's blanceing vs the conter blanced 6m but the 6m is much lighter but is vib king

[NashMan]

Hey nashman, just cut them. Then they will be lower and even stiffer.


thougth about it but i scard of poping spring cause that shit getts really bumpy out there

i choudl add in spring clamp so the spring stays seated but i don't knwo if i want the car that stiff thou i just may chop the springs and test em out on loggin road

[Junkie]

I have got to come watch you play one of these days.Logging roads ........ Damn it's been a long time.I need a beater ;)

[NashMan]

well it used to be my beater but now it my rally/beater reson it never got turn into nice car is it has bent front fram rail and a section was cut and pasted in and was done not that very well the car is pretty much rust free

i just looking for hatch/notch ceica 85gts for my auopt x car just ahve to find mint one reson why in this case is it shorter plate from and has 22r and you can do alot wiht thosu motor cause you have alllot fo junk yard bits that cna be swaped on to that car to make it pretty fast



but yae wip out the red one just wax it frist and make sure your mud flaps work

[Chrisfrom1986]

thougth about it but i scard of poping spring cause that shit getts really bumpy out there

i choudl add in spring clamp so the spring stays seated but i don't knwo if i want the car that stiff thou i just may chop the springs and test em out on loggin road
Makes some mounts for Nylon strap. Monster truck status.

[WadeT]

making fun of someone with dyslexia makes you look stupid.
But so am I or so they told me at the age of 14.

I know I can't spell but christ how hard is it to proof read stuff before you hit reply? I proof read stuff 2 or 3 times before hitting submit and still find mistakes later.

Nashmon just looks lazy with his posts.

BTW Nashman, it's BEEN not BEAN!! Beans are a noun-food, not an adjective.

[SupraFiend]

My original 5m has been bullet proof. I run it between 6 and 7 grand on a regular basis during autoruns and other parking lot adventures. I belive fuel cut defines your real red line, not red notches on your cluster ;) I've put 60k kms on that motor and besides some nasty oil leaks its never had any issues. I'm building a 6m bottom end for it now though with a low milage head just because I can as I have all of the parts. Hopefully it will take the same kind of abuse. What I'm planing to fix the spun bearing issues of the 7m cranks are as follows currently...

-high quality bearings, clevites or Todas maybe.
-brand new toyota spring for the bypass in the oem 7m oil filter adapter (I'm running a gte block with squirters and the oem oil cooler)
-will measure my low milage 7mgte oil pump and then machine the ends to get clearances to spec if necesary (85 pumps are exactly the same as 7mgte pumps correct?)
-knife edging the crank and balancing the complete rotating assmebly. Don't waste your time giving me grief about this one. I'm using a real 6m pulley on a crank from a 7mgte so everything has to be balanced anyways, so I might as well knife edge it while I'm at it.
-cutting and resizing the rods, maybe the mains too but nobody ever spins those do they?

Anyways, I hope that will be enough, I want this motor to be dead reliable at 6-7k on a regular basis. If anyone has any other good suggestions for combating this issue please speak up. I've considered going to an aftermarket relocator and high pressure cooler and plumbing it so all the oil is cooled and filter on every cycle unlike the stock system but I worry that the stock pump wouldn't have enough pressure at low rpms... plus I'd rather not spend the money. If I wasn't keeping this build to a budget I'd be going dry sump for sure, but I am. I'll save that for my real project car :).

[NashMan]

My original 5m has been bullet proof. I run it between 6 and 7 grand on a regular basis during autoruns and other parking lot adventures. I belive fuel cut defines your real red line, not red notches on your cluster ;) I've put 60k kms on that motor and besides some nasty oil leaks its never had any issues. I'm building a 6m bottom end for it now though with a low milage head just because I can as I have all of the parts. Hopefully it will take the same kind of abuse. What I'm planing to fix the spun bearing issues of the 7m cranks are as follows currently...

-high quality bearings, clevites or Todas maybe.
-brand new toyota spring for the bypass in the oem 7m oil filter adapter (I'm running a gte block with squirters and the oem oil cooler)
-will measure my low milage 7mgte oil pump and then machine the ends to get clearances to spec if necesary (85 pumps are exactly the same as 7mgte pumps correct?)
-knife edging the crank and balancing the complete rotating assmebly. Don't waste your time giving me grief about this one. I'm using a real 6m pulley on a crank from a 7mgte so everything has to be balanced anyways, so I might as well knife edge it while I'm at it.
-cutting and resizing the rods, maybe the mains too but nobody ever spins those do they?

Anyways, I hope that will be enough, I want this motor to be dead reliable at 6-7k on a regular basis. If anyone has any other good suggestions for combating this issue please speak up. I've considered going to an aftermarket relocator and high pressure cooler and plumbing it so all the oil is cooled and filter on every cycle unlike the stock system but I worry that the stock pump wouldn't have enough pressure at low rpms... plus I'd rather not spend the money. If I wasn't keeping this build to a budget I'd be going dry sump for sure, but I am. I'll save that for my real project car :).


why whould you run oil squirts and 7mgte by pass kinda waste of time really
piston's will never get that hot plus these cars don't rev to well liek every i6 and your useing vavble oil that can be used esl ware in less you plan to spin this thing like 4age

secound nifeing a crank is great but only if you mix it with a crank scarper must must must

from what i knwo the pumps are diffetn but not fully certon and if buying one by a toda one

pc up's on these cars are a joke to far away form pan and bumb desigh of pick up for high volume system

i going to be runing a 2j sump or mabye small block chevy one they have tons to choose form

and rods will be so custom and so exp


other then that getter done

[SupraFiend]

I could build the bottom end with a 5m block I suppose but considering I have 3 7mgte blocks I figured I'd just use one of those so I don't have to worry about clearancing the 5m block for the rods. I'm pretty sure I don't need to run custom rods, the stock 7mgte ones should work with 5m pistons. I want to run the 7m oilfilter relocator as I want to run an oil cooler. These motors all heat soak like nuts, they all should have come with oil coolers like the 4ages did, and hood vents.

[SilverMk2]

I wouldn't waste your time with the 7M oil filter thing. I run one of those oil thermostats that screw on below the filter. I have that attached to the block and ran the hoses straight down thru the motor mount. On top of that a Ford right angle filter adapter which the filter screws on to. This runs much better than my old setup with the relocation kit. I've got much faster oil pressure buildup at startup and seems to stay higher on the gauge.

The only downside to this setup is that it probably wouldn't fit a stock CT turbo setup since the filter is kind of in the path of the outlet pipe off the turbo. On an NA car you shouldn't have that concern and my IC piping is a lot different than most. HTH


And guys keep the non-related junk out of this thread geez :duh:

[williamb82]

My original 5m has been bullet proof. I run it between 6 and 7 grand on a regular basis during autoruns and other parking lot adventures. I belive fuel cut defines your real red line, not red notches on your cluster ;) I've put 60k kms on that motor and besides some nasty oil leaks its never had any issues. I'm building a 6m bottom end for it now though with a low milage head just because I can as I have all of the parts. Hopefully it will take the same kind of abuse. What I'm planing to fix the spun bearing issues of the 7m cranks are as follows currently...

-high quality bearings, clevites or Todas maybe.
-brand new toyota spring for the bypass in the oem 7m oil filter adapter (I'm running a gte block with squirters and the oem oil cooler)
-will measure my low milage 7mgte oil pump and then machine the ends to get clearances to spec if necesary (85 pumps are exactly the same as 7mgte pumps correct?)
-knife edging the crank and balancing the complete rotating assmebly. Don't waste your time giving me grief about this one. I'm using a real 6m pulley on a crank from a 7mgte so everything has to be balanced anyways, so I might as well knife edge it while I'm at it.
-cutting and resizing the rods, maybe the mains too but nobody ever spins those do they?

Anyways, I hope that will be enough, I want this motor to be dead reliable at 6-7k on a regular basis. If anyone has any other good suggestions for combating this issue please speak up. I've considered going to an aftermarket relocator and high pressure cooler and plumbing it so all the oil is cooled and filter on every cycle unlike the stock system but I worry that the stock pump wouldn't have enough pressure at low rpms... plus I'd rather not spend the money. If I wasn't keeping this build to a budget I'd be going dry sump for sure, but I am. I'll save that for my real project car :).

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/williamb82/album?.dir=11db&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/williamb82/my_photos