Engine cuts out when I reach operating temp... why?

[Jose H. 3]

So, I already tried to search and can't find anything like what I am getting.

The car (MKII) starts up strong and runs strong right after start up while the engine is warming up. Once the engine gets to operating temp, it will still idle, not as well, but will. Once you try to give it throttle, it starts to stutter and tries to die out.

I just put in a new alternator and plug wires (because the car needed it them anyways). I tried to pull any codes shorting the proper connector, and that checked out fine, with no codes.

If I let the car cool down for 15 min or so, it will start back up and run strong till it gets back up to operating temp.

I'm running out of ideas, and wanted to see if anyone else had any imput. I don't get a whole lot of time to work on the car right now, so I might not be able to try people's ideas for a bit... Thanks to anyone that can help out.

[dimwitrj]

Possibly water in the spark plug valley or in the distributor..

[AJ]

Maybe thermo timing switch on the thermostat???

[Jose H. 3]

No water in the valley, haven't checked the distro yet though. The thermo timing switch, can that be tested? or is it a replace and hope type thing? (i haven't checked the TSRM for it yet...

[4SFED]

before it gets up to op temp, the mix is enriched so I'm thinking you might have a small vacuum leak somewhere and when the engine reaches operating temp it gets too lean from the extra air getting sucked in somewhere.

[Jose H. 3]

So i tested the water temp sensor as per the manual, and it failed. Replaced it, and while taking the old one off the plastic connector on it crumbled away, so I'm guessing that is why it failed... For some reason though it still did not fix the problem. Any other ideas anyone?

[AJ]

Next I would test the ISC and TPS????

[Jose H. 3]

Bringin this one back. So i checked the things mentioned by other so far, and everything is checking out fine, but the problem won't go away. I replaced everything in the ignition side with known working parts, didn't fix anything. One noticable thing though was that when i replaced the spark plugs they were wet with fuel. So it seems the motor is running rich, like in cold start mode, and just floods out the motor.. I swapped the cold start injector switch, did nothing. the only two things that i can think of that i have not tested or swapped are the ECU and the injectors. Any way of testing the injectors in the car? or should I be looking into something else? the injectors were replaced by the previous owner with venom remanufactured units. I have heard these aren't too great. Any other ideas????? Im running out and my current daily is burning a discusting amout of oil and i really need to take it off the road and rebuild it...

[Dangerous Ken]

Man, it took seven months to tell us it has aftermarket injectors? :duh:

Try pulling an injector clip off (very carefully so as to not crack the clip), and measure the resistance of the venom injector. Stock 182s run 2.3-2.4 ohms.

I would get a set of stock injectors, send them out to be tested and refurbished, and continue with stock injectors installed.
You have no idea what flow rate those injectors are providing...

Ken

[Donn29]

I just read this and was thinking perhaps a ground issue causing the ECU to think the tps is still at closed. And when you open up the throttle it dies.

[Jose H. 3]

Man, it took seven months to tell us it has aftermarket injectors? :duh:

Ken

Yeah, i know it took too damn long, but i have been busy, you know, school, work, blah blah blah excuse excuse excuse. Thanks for the spec, i'm pretty sure the clips are already all busted up, which sucks. I was looking around and they are all zip tied onto the injectors. I actually didn't know they were aftermarket injectors till a couple weeks ago when I emailed the previous owner asking about them. He says they were remans. at oem flow rate... but from what i've heard the venoms are not so great.

Speaking of broken clips, anyone have any idea if there would be any way of getting new clips (not just injector clips) other than buying a whole new harness?

I tested the TPS as per the manual and it all check out good, the car runs like a champ till it warms up... so i'm not too sure how the TPS would cause this... but i did test it anyhow, along with pretty much every FI sensor.

*Side Note* Some things like the AFM in the manual when it says if the ECU is not getting the correct reading from the AFM to bench test the AFM to test if its bad, it doesn't give specs or methods... how the hell do you test it? I got around this just by dropping in my AFM from my running car, and it fixed nothing (i did this before i tested the readings at the ecu just in case, but when i did i was getting good readings). So pretty much just a side question now about the AFM. Sorry for the deviation...

[Dangerous Ken]

*Side Note* Some things like the AFM in the manual when it says if the ECU is not getting the correct reading from the AFM to bench test the AFM to test if its bad, it doesn't give specs or methods... how the hell do you test it?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK2/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=58

Ken

[Jose H. 3]

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK2/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=58

Ken

:duh: missed that one.... thanks ken

wow, now that i actually open my eyes and look at the index I have no idea how i missed that one.... damn noob

[Jose H. 3]

Tested the resistance of the injectors... they are sitting at about 2.5 ohms... so kinda back to the drawing board. I'll do a better visual inspection this coming week seeing as though my current daily looks like it just blew the head gasket... all of the coolant came out from under the exhaust manifold earlier today... started to heat up till I noticed and pulled over. Now shes sitting on the side of I-4 (highway) im at work, and tryin to figure out how to get her home.... poo, today is not my day.

[Dave A.]

before it gets up to op temp, the mix is enriched so I'm thinking you might have a small vacuum leak somewhere and when the engine reaches operating temp it gets too lean from the extra air getting sucked in somewhere.



Ditto on the above.

[Jose H. 3]

so this is embarrasing to say but... the damn car is still not running well. now more then ever would be a good time to get this thing going... i decided even though i checked the resistance of the injectors to change them anyways for the set that i just had serviced at cleaninjectors.com... car seems to run for a longer amount of time but still behaves the same way. while i was changing the injectors i changed other parts from my other mkII, like the throttle body/tps, the part on the manifold next to the TB (can't recall the name) and some of the vacum hoses. now for some reason the #2 cylinder is not running. it jumps a spark from the cap to the wire and also from the wire to the plug. dropped in a new plug and also plug wire with no change. can anyone give me any direction with either of these problems? I don't seem to think the engine is running lean, the plugs come out wet, so if anything I would think rich (i could be way off) would it be possible for the fuel pump to stop pumping enough when it gets to operating temp? car cranked up first shot after the injector change after jumping the pump wires by the AFM... i searched and could not find any vacum leaks, many of the vacum lines have been removed from the car, including anything related to the EGR, even the two coming off of the thermostat housing (which seem the nipples for the hoses have been broken off and left open, would this cause any probs?)... I can sure use some help on this one...

when the engine cuts out, it starts to bog down kind of like its running out of gas and it will hesitate and then just idle like crap till it finally dies out... i just ordered a fuel pressure gauge to be 100% about the fuel, but if anyone has any other ideas, feel free to spit them out...

[4SFED]

I assume that you've figured that #2 is not running because you can pull the plug wire from it and it doen't change how the engine runs when you pull that plug but you pull any of the other five and it runs worse - right?
If that is the case, and you are getting spark to #2, then it is either not getting fuel or compression.

[Jose H. 3]

yes it is because i can pull the plug wire and it makes no difference in how it runs... i'm going to have to check to make sure the connector at the injector is correctly seated. car did not have this problem before i changed everything out (like the injectors, which were just serviced) which makes me think it has to be a fuel issue...

anyone have any others ideas on what can be the problem that makes this thing die after running great for a while? other day i ran it for at least 20 min, took it around the block a few times, just decided to die out again the last go around....

[Jose H. 3]

bump..... anyone?

[Jose H. 3]

Ha, yeah!... just in case anyone wanted to hear the end up this, or if anyone searches and has a similar problem. either way i'm excited, cause she's finally running! i'll finally get my butt back into a mkii seat. of all things it was a failing fuel pump... which i found after i installed a fuel pressure gauge as per Wes's write up (which worked well)... swapped tanks from my other mkii that i am rebuilding (so new pump will go in that one).

so long for something so stupid... better late then never!

oh and #2 was due to one of the terminals in the broken clip had partially fallen back when i was taping them to make sure they wouldn't slip out... ha

[clayallen18]

same thing happend to mine believe it or not it was the fuel pump

[blacktoysupra]

my car has 197,000 miles on the all components except engine, alternator, 02 sensor, and fuel filter...maybe would be a good idea to do the fuel pump too right? is the pump supposed to be a bit noisy when the car is on?