Yikes! Emergency!!

[DRIFTINGmy85]

So I've been calculating my gas mileage for about a month (and driving my supra for only a month). Today I was not to the point of the light staying on, it was still going on then off after a few miles, and suddenly my car shut off. I assumed it was because of running out of gas. :duh:

When I came back from the gas station with gas it wouldn't start. Luckily I had a friend with me with a 90' Camry. GO TOYOTA!! And he pushed my ass home; about 13 miles!!

Now it's time to diagnose. I tried to force it started at 30 mph but it wouldn't hold a spark.

Now my baby is in my garage and it's time to diagnose and fix!!

[DRIFTINGmy85]

Hmm, not getting spark from my ignition coil. There was one in the car under the seat when I purchased the car. This one seems to not be working either, unless I'm checking completely wrong.

If the ignition coil is bad on my car and has apparently gone bad twice, what could be the cause of this?

[AJ]

Check the ignitor under the coil see the online TSRM for testing.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM_MKII/index.html

[Tanya]

Check fuses 1st, they're a bit easier to swap than ignitors/coils.

Also check the EFI relay.

[DRIFTINGmy85]

The small panel of fuses by the clutch-pedal had it's lower row completely mixed up and all fuses are intact. I put them into the order according to the sticker on the fuse panel lid. Don't know how I missed noticing that the order was mixed up before right now..... :inout7xr:
There is not a sticker indicating where the fuses and relays go under the hood by the ignition coil so don't know if they're all correct or not.
Can I see a pic of how they're supposed to be?
All fuses under the hood are intact. Both efi relays are clicking upon one key click.
Going back outside...

Btw, thanks for the help!!

[TOYMAN321]

You tried to bump start doing 30??

[DRIFTINGmy85]

Last night when I went to get a gas container from autozone I purchased a distributor cap and rotor and some igniton cables. I put those on last night.
This morning i took a quick trip to my local pick-a-part and paid $17 for an ignitor.
I exchanged the ignitor and tried to start my car. Nothing...
Check fuses again. A 5amp fuse is blown in the fuses under the hood.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b111/Muziq_138/fuseboxenginecompartment2.jpg

I put in my 7.5 amp fuse for the radio, hope I didn't hurt anything!, and try to start my car.
IT STARTS!! It's idling at 800rpm. It's a little sputtery. I hook up my timing light and it shows that the timing is at 20 (with the timing connector jumped but no flashing cel with key to the on position). I let it warm up a few minutes. I start revving it. It sounds really F*n good!! Check rpms, it's at 1100rpms.
Shut down the car. Pull out the wire jumping the connector. Start the car.
Rev it. Sounds good still and the rpms are at 1600. I shut the car off.

What do you think?

[Tanya]

I think your TPS sensor is either out of adjustment or toast.

Try pulling the TPS plug while it's running, and see if there's any difference in rpm.

If there's no difference, the TPS isn't working, which is attributing to the high idle and lack of blinking CEL

[DRIFTINGmy85]

It changes something. it sounds like it's making it run slightly higher and lower when disconnecting and reconnecting. It's at 1600 rpms.

What would make that fuse blow?

[jekruger72]

I have a similar problem but i have yet to replace anything, the only difference is that mine starts but after getting to running temp and turning it off if i wait longer then ten minutes it wont start for an hour. I could pour water on the ignitor/coil and the efi relay, main relay ( i do hear clicking i cant remember if on one or both or what i'll go check,) i also pour water on these two other things, one says main on it but its bolted behind the ignitor its not in the fuse box, the other doesnt have any writing, but it looks like the ignigtor under the coil but with out the mounting pegs, that usually will make it only about a 30 min wait.

[DRIFTINGmy85]

Shortly after my last post here the idle was back at 2000rpm.

My afm doesn't show proper resistance when ohm testing e2-vs. It is supposed to be 20-1000ohms from fully closed to fully open with the resistance change is accordance to the position of the measuring plate opening.
With it at fully closed ohm = 29.
Fully open ohm = 25.
Moving the plate back and forth from open to closed results in 44 highest and 15 lowest. Only going super fast does it reach up to 4.23 or 2.45, But seldom.
How much could this be affecting the idle?

I took off my throttle body in order to set the tps. The tsrm says when the meter "deflects" to stop and tighten the screw. Does that mean when there is no continuity and the needle deflects down to infinity or when the needle deflects by moving at all and with continuity present?

I basically turned the tps all the way counter-clockwise. hooked up the two probes with the ohm meter to the bottom two prongs. Saw continuity. Turned the tps clockwise until it was just beyond being from continuity to no continuity. But right before the no continuity it goes to about half as much continuity. Did I go too far?

With being just past continuity to set it, there was no continuity with .9mm or .5mm.

Tomorrow I finish messing with my tps and move on to the ISCV.

[DRIFTINGmy85]

Okay, adjusting the tps correctly and that gave me the cel light.
Timing mode is now capable.
Thanks everyone!!!