MSII Troubleshooting!!

[KurtW85]

MSII v3 with the "e" code loaded...

85 supra...
6mgte: rebuilt final comp of 9.0:1 with stock head/arps and mhg. with 440 low imp inj...stock ct26...LC1 wideband...stock cams... ignition timing is set ~10...no ISCV...

distributor and direct coil control setup...

runs way rough...wont hold idle with out holding throttle...what do i need to do?! how to upload a datalog?!

a vid:
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i39/MkIIDrifter/th_8-31-07060.jpg (http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i39/MkIIDrifter/?action=view&current=8-31-07060.flv)

link to datalog:http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?p=178604#178604

it almost sounds like a spark plug wire is broken or not connected....but wtf! haha. what to make of this? tach signal is definitely messed up...

[cheappower82]

Noticed your wideband AFRs on MT isn't moving; it should be jumping around. I'm thinking you need to play with the req fuel number (up or down) and see if it gets better

Also, you need to make sure your coolant sensor is hooked up, I didn't see any movement on the gauge

take screen shots of all settings and post them

[KurtW85]

im pretty much running your settings... take a look at that datalog...it has a lot to say... and my 02 will kick on about 20 secs into it running...

[cheappower82]

remind me again, what ignition are you running? MSD6A, Toyota, distibutor VR, etc., etc,

Also, your TPS doesn't look right; try to calibrate it in Tools

As for your wideband, turn on the ign sw and let it warm up. then datalog

[KurtW85]

i may have wired the wideband incorrectly... but im running your distributor and direct coil... tps is calibrated...i have to have it cracked open to start and run...first two attempts in the vid where without throttle...

[cheappower82]

toyota coil?

[KurtW85]

accel...new right befor vegas last year(no use for almost a year)...checked spark and its consistent on 2 plugs... checked spark plug wires...between 5-9 ohms...NGK wires... then pulled plugs and they are fouled out...got some new ones to play on... rotor and cap were replaced when i did the coil....thinkin these??? ill upload some pics of my screen...for some reason my comp wont do screen shots...

kk...well the pics turned out shitty

[KurtW85]

swaped the plugs and and coil to a 82 style and we are gettin good spark... im about to try and start again...datalog to see if shit changed...

[KurtW85]

http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?p=168819#168819

...another datalog...

[KurtW85]

here we go with the great MS troubleshooting...my fp just stoped workin... 12v aint being sent back...

[KurtW85]

the relay took a shit...

[KurtW85]

fixxed... being i wasnt the one who built the board i didnt install the correct jumpers...so i took a peak at them and had to install my VROUTINV-tsel jumper...started and ran with the throttle cracked... how to adjust throttle(im not running a iscv... ??? Donnie???:ugh:

[cheappower82]

there's a cap on the TB that has an adjustment screw, let me find a pic.........

[cheappower82]

Look at this pic, just above the TPS. There should be a cap covering that cylinder; pry it off and back off the screw till it idles better.

http://www.pbase.com/celicaxx/image/39437770/large.jpg

[KurtW85]

i cracked it open by adjusting the throttle linkage and resetting the tps... i think ill go back and change it that way tho...

tuning this thing is a bitch... im using your ve and spark maps... and i made a pretty rich afr table...but it wont let me get into boost without running super lean....ahhhhh.... accel enrichments? ill link my ms/ forum post...

[KurtW85]

http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?p=168964#168964

[SuperSubs]

AHHH!!!!!! Please accept my apology Kurt for not logging on and helping you troubleshoot for the past month, I just got back into school and taking on nearly 20 credit hours a semester and classes like differential equations and engineering physics, I find myself doing nearly 5 or 6 hours worth of homework a night. But now that I’m caught up in school for the most part, I have some time to help out. I only really have one thing to say about megasquirt's fuel pump relay setup. IT BLOWS!!!! (literally! I blew about three relays on my relay board with it.....) For now when you’re troubleshooting and spending some time cranking and stopping, I think the best way to go is to isolate at least a 40amp fused direct switch to the stock fuel pump circuit for direct fuel pump control. I did and I have never been happier. Now how far are you into tuning??? Injector opening and closing times adjusted? From what I can read, sounds like a good strong idle is first on your list. As Cheappower82 suggested, the cap on top of the TB can be adjusted for some minor alterations (I know this has been debated that it does nothing for idle adjustment, but with the standalone it does give a slight variance) . What I suggest is drop your enrichments, get your car started and let it run until it reaches it’s absolute running temperature (where it peaks and hovers around this temp)(at least have your warm up enrichments turn off at 160*, which it should be set at). This is where some critical steps need to be taken. Check your air fuel. Where does it sit at? Turn off your ego correction if it is set, and just watch where that baby sits. Don’t give it gas, just watch where it hovers itself. This is where your ve adjustments need to start. Now remember, say your at 1000rpm and sitting pretty at about 35 map, and your running lean. You want to raise both your 30 map @1000rpm value, and your 40 map@1000rpm value, as both these will influence you’re a/f at this spot!!! And also, your actual x and y plane values for map and rpm can be changed for your personal benefit, say your not going to run all the way to 200 map for right now, make your highest 100 or 150, then you can make your level incensements smaller which will provide more accuracy. Don’t get too hung up on your idle speed as of right now, because as you probably know, as you lean your idle, your idle rpm with rise, and vice versa. The rpm’s that it can rise and lower to can be quite large, so keep in mind that you most likely need to revisit the set screw on the side of the TB that “stops” the throttle plate at whatever spot you raise or lower the screw to. A good idle for very rough tuning that worked for me is to keep it at about 1000 rpm or a bit lower, because you might find when you drive and you shift or push in the clutch from a load, if you don’t have your deccel enrichments tuned just right, you may lean out or over rich to the point where your rpms lower so much your car dies. Just something to keep in mind. How good are you at reading logs??? I personally believe that the best way to check logs it to directly open up the Microsoft Excel table and follow it down till you see troublesome areas of either mega rich, or mega lean, and then look at the map value and rpm, then go into your ve table and make slight adjustments ( I usually do 2 value changes at the most in slight tunning, or 5 value changes in trouble areas.) I believe the best way to attack the ve table is slowly in small sections. I started by getting my car to idle well at the 14.7 a/f marker by itself. From there, I got in the car, and slowly raised my rpm while just sitting in neutral from 1000 rpm, to 1500 rpm. From here I let the car sit, and gathered the a/f target and adjusted. I kept this staircase pattern until I had a good and VERY SLOW rising rpm a/f ratios up to about 4000 rpm. A mistake I made was never touching the 20 map values because I though I never used them because I never saw them on my log sheets. But remember, you would be surprised how values you didn’t think were used actually affect you’re a/f. Example : your looking at your ve table while the car is running and your looking at the green box that is lit up indicating the value the computer is “looking at” at that rpm and load. You can adjust this value to change the a/f, but you can also slightly change the values in the boxes to the top, left, right, and bottom to correct the a/f at that given rpm and map, without touching the actual box being highlighted!! That’s just something to keep in consideration. As for the ignition table, I’m not going to lie, I uploaded donnie’s table into my megasquirt and haven’t changed anything on it!!! I believe his values are very accurate and a great place to start. How about your trigger angle??? Have you done any tweaking with this yet?? Have you set up a timing light to your crank and checked the value you get on the crank with the number indicated in the trigger angle tunning window? Remember, you can play with the dizzy to get these numbers to line up, AND you can play with the trigger angle value to match them. Sometimes it takes a good comb of both to get it to consistently stay lined up. Well, I think I just about cashed the keyboard for right now, this short novel is done. Keep asking questions, and I’ll answer to the best of my knowledge. I know what it’s like to try and tune myself with no experience and no one physically next to me who has had experience with megasquirt. And remember, donnnie has had alot more experience under his belt than me, so if I accidently state something he doesn’t agree with, he’s probably right. Lol.
-Mike