williamb82
03-17-2008, 10:43 AM
this is a thread of somewhat commonly needed tips and tricks. i will add more to it as i think of them.
CRANK PULLEY BOLT REMOVAL!
best way to remove or tighten that bolt(no nics on the inside of the block or on the rod, etc..)
step 1: remove the timing belt from the cam gears, then line the cams up so the intake and exhaust valves are closed on the #1 cylinder.
step 2: turn the crank ~1/3 turn clockwise past tdc for #1 piston.
step 3: remove the #1 sparkplug.
step 4: use some stereo power cable thats insulated. i used 8 or 10 awg. and slide ~6-12in or so in the cylinder
step 5: then turn the crank back counter clockwise. it locks the motor.
step 6: use a breaker bar and 6 point 19mm socket to break it loose.
for tightening, same thing, but turn counter clockwise first, then clockwise to lock it. then use a tq wrench set to the correct tq. 6m/7m is 195ft/lbs and 5m is 168lbs/ft iirc
PILOT BEARING REMOVAL!
this will work for w58 or r154. same pilot bearing. 5m,6m, or 7m.
step 1: get a couple paper towels and a cup of water and a stock extra headbolt(dont use one you need) or an aftermarket bolt the same size. i have several stock headbolts and they fit in the pilot hole perfect. a flat head screwdriver and a hammer!
step 2. tear off pieces of paper towel about 1.5in square.
step 3. dip the pieces 1 at a time in the cup of water and then stick them in the pilot hole. repeat till you cant force any more in there.
step 4. take the headbolt and put it in the hole and tap with the hammer easily till it touches the crank inside. then remove it.
step 5. repeat step 3 and 4 until it is packed so tight that you have to hit the bolt with the hammer hard for it to push the bolt in. at this point you will notice the bearing starting to push out. each time the bolt bottoms out remove it and pack more wet paper towels in the hole until the pilot bearing pops all the way out.
step 6. use a flat head screwdriver to remove the large chunck of wet paper towels and your done. just a lil water to wipe off. no greasey mess like the haynes ends up causing you.
HOW TO HAVE A TIGHT LEAK FREE OILPAN!
this assumes youve already scrapped all old sealant off the pan and block
step 1: grab a can of acetone, some clean rags and a tube of ultra gray sealant. also some gloves wont hurt.
step 2: pour some acetone onto a clean rag and wipe the block mating surface and pan mating surface clean. the acetone will remove any oil or grease residue and dry instantly with no residue at all. might want to wear gloves so that acetone doesnt dry out your hands.
step 3: put a nice even bead around the entire block if you have the engine on a stand and upside down, or on the pan if the engine is in the car. ive found 1 full tube is usually used for the pan itself.
step 4: place the pan directly onto the block, do not allow it to slide around as this will damage the bead of sealant you have put down.
step 5: install all the bolts and tighten properly.
once the sealer has dried you could remove the bolts and the pan wont come off. lol. when it ever needs removed it will have to be "persuaded" to do so as this gives a VERY good seal and bonds very well once its been heat cycled a few times.
BEST HG SEAL POSSIBLE!
step 1: you need your hg, a tube of ultra gray, some clean rags, and a can of acetone. also the proper socket and extension and a GOOD tq wrench!!!
step 1. pour some acetone on a clean rag and clean the head and block surface very thoroughly. it will dry leaving no residue at all.
step 2: put a tiny bead of ultra gray at the 2 spots where the front timing cover attaches to the block. DO NOT PUT A HUGE BEAD!!!!!!!!!! just a small one and may even want to smear it with your finger slightly.
step 3: place the hg on the block being sure it is seated over the dowel pins properly
step 4: install the head. get help if possible as you want to set it straight down and not slide it on the gasket at all. easier when you have a competent helper.
step 5: install the bolts or head studs and make all finger tight.
step 6: tq the bolts in the proper sequence to the proper spec in 3 even passes. i use 90lbs with head studs and lube on them. so i go 30, 60, then 90. with headbolts i go to 75 in 25, 50, 75 sequence.
HOW TO SEAL THIN PAPER GASKETS!
this is for any small paper gasket, like the diff cover, or the timing cover for the block and thermostat housing and other misc paper gaskets.
step 1: you need some clean rags, can of acetone, and a tube of ultra gray sealant.
step 2: pour some acetone on a clean rag and wipe the mating surfaces of the parts that are going together clean.
step 3. put a dab of the ultra gray on your thumb and forefinger and rub together and then rub it on the paper gasket working your way around the entire gasket. when done both sides of the gasket should have a thin coating of the ultra gray that will not squish out when the parts are bolted together.
step 4: place the gasket on the part and put the part on with the correct bolts. this works goof on the timing covers on the 7m and especially the upper 5m timing cover!
HOW TO KEEP ROCKERS IN PLACE WHEN INSTALLIBNG CAMS!
this is a easy headache reliever. may sound like common sense but lots of people have asked how to do this. lol.
step 1: you need a tube of assembly lube, preferably the moly based stuff, and some rags to clean your hands.
step 2: put a dab of assembly lube on the top of the hydraulic lash adjuster and on the top of the valve stem with your finger. use a fair amount.
step 3: place the correct rocker on each assembly. then use the rags to wipe your hands clean of the grease.
step 4: install the cam tower on the cylinder head while the lube holds the rockers from being bumped off so easy.
LEAK FREE EXHAUST MANIFOLD GASKET!
this is the method i use and never have a leaking exhaust manifold gasket, works great when you need to reuse a gasket.
step 1: you need the gasket and a tube of ultra gray and some rags.
step 2. put a decent bead around each port on the gasket with the ultra gray on both sides. dont use too much. use your finger to smooth it out slightly.
step 3: place the gasket over the studs on the head and use the rags to clean the sealer off your hands
step 4: install the exhaust manifold/header and tw the nuts to spec. it is recommended to only use the stock nuts as aftermarket nuts do not distribute the tq correctly and tend to cause the studs to strip the head even when tqed to the proper amount.
when the engine is started up for the first time there will be some smoke emitting from the gasket area for a couple min. but it only does this the once. after that its fine.
EXHAUST STUD FIX!
not really a special trick, but something i feel should be mentioned. if your head is off the car for ANY reason. helicoil the exhaust studs. they tend to srip with age and heat cycling etc... and also after helicoiled the exhaust nuts can be tightened a lil tighter and it WONT strip!!!.
step 1. buy the proper helicoil kit. it is 10mmx1.25 and make sure you have extra inserts just in case. lol. napa sells the inserts in packs of 12. also make sure you have the proper 13/32 drill bit and a GOOD tap wrench. buy some red loctite as well and some pb blaster and brake parts cleaner.
step 2. make sure all studs are removed and everything is out of the way so you can get the tap wrench in there easily.
step 3. drill with the drill bit straight into the holes all the way down till the drill bit bottoms out.
step 4. use the brake parts cleaner to blow the metal pits out.
step 5. spray some pb blaster on the tap and tap each hole. it is VERY important you tap ALL THE WAY IN!!!! if you dont bottom the tap out in the hole the inserts will not install correctly. however, be care so you dont over tap and ruin the threads you made or your in BIG trouble.
step 6. use the brake parts cleaner and clean all the holes of debris and pb blaster.
step 7. install the helicoils and be sure the tab on the coil is the first part entered. before installing them put a lil bit of red loctite on the helicoil OUTER threads only. not the inner threads. then install them till it bottoms out in the hole. if done correctly the entire coil will be inside the threaded hole in the head. take a clean exhaust stud to thread in lightly just to make sure the threads are good and correct and then remove the stud. dont leave it in.
step 8. let this dry for at least an hour if you can before putting the studs back. dont want the studs accidentally getting thread locked in there. lol.
step 9. after it has dried, install all the exhaust studs. put the shortest threaded half in the head. then your read to install the gasket and exhaust mani/header/turbo mani etc...
CRANK PULLEY BOLT REMOVAL!
best way to remove or tighten that bolt(no nics on the inside of the block or on the rod, etc..)
step 1: remove the timing belt from the cam gears, then line the cams up so the intake and exhaust valves are closed on the #1 cylinder.
step 2: turn the crank ~1/3 turn clockwise past tdc for #1 piston.
step 3: remove the #1 sparkplug.
step 4: use some stereo power cable thats insulated. i used 8 or 10 awg. and slide ~6-12in or so in the cylinder
step 5: then turn the crank back counter clockwise. it locks the motor.
step 6: use a breaker bar and 6 point 19mm socket to break it loose.
for tightening, same thing, but turn counter clockwise first, then clockwise to lock it. then use a tq wrench set to the correct tq. 6m/7m is 195ft/lbs and 5m is 168lbs/ft iirc
PILOT BEARING REMOVAL!
this will work for w58 or r154. same pilot bearing. 5m,6m, or 7m.
step 1: get a couple paper towels and a cup of water and a stock extra headbolt(dont use one you need) or an aftermarket bolt the same size. i have several stock headbolts and they fit in the pilot hole perfect. a flat head screwdriver and a hammer!
step 2. tear off pieces of paper towel about 1.5in square.
step 3. dip the pieces 1 at a time in the cup of water and then stick them in the pilot hole. repeat till you cant force any more in there.
step 4. take the headbolt and put it in the hole and tap with the hammer easily till it touches the crank inside. then remove it.
step 5. repeat step 3 and 4 until it is packed so tight that you have to hit the bolt with the hammer hard for it to push the bolt in. at this point you will notice the bearing starting to push out. each time the bolt bottoms out remove it and pack more wet paper towels in the hole until the pilot bearing pops all the way out.
step 6. use a flat head screwdriver to remove the large chunck of wet paper towels and your done. just a lil water to wipe off. no greasey mess like the haynes ends up causing you.
HOW TO HAVE A TIGHT LEAK FREE OILPAN!
this assumes youve already scrapped all old sealant off the pan and block
step 1: grab a can of acetone, some clean rags and a tube of ultra gray sealant. also some gloves wont hurt.
step 2: pour some acetone onto a clean rag and wipe the block mating surface and pan mating surface clean. the acetone will remove any oil or grease residue and dry instantly with no residue at all. might want to wear gloves so that acetone doesnt dry out your hands.
step 3: put a nice even bead around the entire block if you have the engine on a stand and upside down, or on the pan if the engine is in the car. ive found 1 full tube is usually used for the pan itself.
step 4: place the pan directly onto the block, do not allow it to slide around as this will damage the bead of sealant you have put down.
step 5: install all the bolts and tighten properly.
once the sealer has dried you could remove the bolts and the pan wont come off. lol. when it ever needs removed it will have to be "persuaded" to do so as this gives a VERY good seal and bonds very well once its been heat cycled a few times.
BEST HG SEAL POSSIBLE!
step 1: you need your hg, a tube of ultra gray, some clean rags, and a can of acetone. also the proper socket and extension and a GOOD tq wrench!!!
step 1. pour some acetone on a clean rag and clean the head and block surface very thoroughly. it will dry leaving no residue at all.
step 2: put a tiny bead of ultra gray at the 2 spots where the front timing cover attaches to the block. DO NOT PUT A HUGE BEAD!!!!!!!!!! just a small one and may even want to smear it with your finger slightly.
step 3: place the hg on the block being sure it is seated over the dowel pins properly
step 4: install the head. get help if possible as you want to set it straight down and not slide it on the gasket at all. easier when you have a competent helper.
step 5: install the bolts or head studs and make all finger tight.
step 6: tq the bolts in the proper sequence to the proper spec in 3 even passes. i use 90lbs with head studs and lube on them. so i go 30, 60, then 90. with headbolts i go to 75 in 25, 50, 75 sequence.
HOW TO SEAL THIN PAPER GASKETS!
this is for any small paper gasket, like the diff cover, or the timing cover for the block and thermostat housing and other misc paper gaskets.
step 1: you need some clean rags, can of acetone, and a tube of ultra gray sealant.
step 2: pour some acetone on a clean rag and wipe the mating surfaces of the parts that are going together clean.
step 3. put a dab of the ultra gray on your thumb and forefinger and rub together and then rub it on the paper gasket working your way around the entire gasket. when done both sides of the gasket should have a thin coating of the ultra gray that will not squish out when the parts are bolted together.
step 4: place the gasket on the part and put the part on with the correct bolts. this works goof on the timing covers on the 7m and especially the upper 5m timing cover!
HOW TO KEEP ROCKERS IN PLACE WHEN INSTALLIBNG CAMS!
this is a easy headache reliever. may sound like common sense but lots of people have asked how to do this. lol.
step 1: you need a tube of assembly lube, preferably the moly based stuff, and some rags to clean your hands.
step 2: put a dab of assembly lube on the top of the hydraulic lash adjuster and on the top of the valve stem with your finger. use a fair amount.
step 3: place the correct rocker on each assembly. then use the rags to wipe your hands clean of the grease.
step 4: install the cam tower on the cylinder head while the lube holds the rockers from being bumped off so easy.
LEAK FREE EXHAUST MANIFOLD GASKET!
this is the method i use and never have a leaking exhaust manifold gasket, works great when you need to reuse a gasket.
step 1: you need the gasket and a tube of ultra gray and some rags.
step 2. put a decent bead around each port on the gasket with the ultra gray on both sides. dont use too much. use your finger to smooth it out slightly.
step 3: place the gasket over the studs on the head and use the rags to clean the sealer off your hands
step 4: install the exhaust manifold/header and tw the nuts to spec. it is recommended to only use the stock nuts as aftermarket nuts do not distribute the tq correctly and tend to cause the studs to strip the head even when tqed to the proper amount.
when the engine is started up for the first time there will be some smoke emitting from the gasket area for a couple min. but it only does this the once. after that its fine.
EXHAUST STUD FIX!
not really a special trick, but something i feel should be mentioned. if your head is off the car for ANY reason. helicoil the exhaust studs. they tend to srip with age and heat cycling etc... and also after helicoiled the exhaust nuts can be tightened a lil tighter and it WONT strip!!!.
step 1. buy the proper helicoil kit. it is 10mmx1.25 and make sure you have extra inserts just in case. lol. napa sells the inserts in packs of 12. also make sure you have the proper 13/32 drill bit and a GOOD tap wrench. buy some red loctite as well and some pb blaster and brake parts cleaner.
step 2. make sure all studs are removed and everything is out of the way so you can get the tap wrench in there easily.
step 3. drill with the drill bit straight into the holes all the way down till the drill bit bottoms out.
step 4. use the brake parts cleaner to blow the metal pits out.
step 5. spray some pb blaster on the tap and tap each hole. it is VERY important you tap ALL THE WAY IN!!!! if you dont bottom the tap out in the hole the inserts will not install correctly. however, be care so you dont over tap and ruin the threads you made or your in BIG trouble.
step 6. use the brake parts cleaner and clean all the holes of debris and pb blaster.
step 7. install the helicoils and be sure the tab on the coil is the first part entered. before installing them put a lil bit of red loctite on the helicoil OUTER threads only. not the inner threads. then install them till it bottoms out in the hole. if done correctly the entire coil will be inside the threaded hole in the head. take a clean exhaust stud to thread in lightly just to make sure the threads are good and correct and then remove the stud. dont leave it in.
step 8. let this dry for at least an hour if you can before putting the studs back. dont want the studs accidentally getting thread locked in there. lol.
step 9. after it has dried, install all the exhaust studs. put the shortest threaded half in the head. then your read to install the gasket and exhaust mani/header/turbo mani etc...