Chevy S-10 dizzy cap...tips?

[supergregotti]

On my way to the local Foriegn auto salvage today to look at Supra parts, and the Blazer is running rough and dies.
I have battled with the distributor cap and rotor with this vehicle since its purchase, and lost x3, because of the piss poor design of having the voltage regulator mounted to the distributor, and the cap notched to fit over it (yet another American auto engineering boof) because it sucks in moisture like mad.
Today I thought no way can the problem be the cap and rotor because the last time I changed them I blue Rtv'd the entire perimeter of the distributor and installed the cap, but removed the cap for inspection, and sure enough corrosion city. Cleaned the junk up with some sand paper, put it back together, and it ran fine.

Anyone have tips on how to seal this thing up?

[scorpmatt]

Anyone have tips on how to seal this thing up?

sell it and buy another supra. ;)

[supergregotti]

sell it and buy another supra. ;)

I'd be lucky to give it away, definitely wouldn't apply any funds towards the purchase of another Supra...I like your thinking tho!!! :thumbsup:

[Tre]

Depending on what trim this is--- I believe there was a bulletin about this for the little vent screen on the distributor. It's under the rotor. It will look like a tiny ( only a couple millimeters across) little metal mesh filter. The bulletin told us to just stab it with a pick basically and remove it.
The problem was that the mesh would clog and not allow the collected moisture to leave.
There was another one for the a/c hose that runs over the top of the distributor. Just a foam sleeve wrapped around to capture condensation. Yours may or may not have that depending on year and specific package.

[supergregotti]

Depending on what trim this is--- I believe there was a bulletin about this for the little vent screen on the distributor. It's under the rotor. It will look like a tiny ( only a couple millimeters across) little metal mesh filter. The bulletin told us to just stab it with a pick basically and remove it.
The problem was that the mesh would clog and not allow the collected moisture to leave.
There was another one for the a/c hose that runs over the top of the distributor. Just a foam sleeve wrapped around to capture condensation. Yours may or may not have that depending on year and specific package.

1993 4.3L (262 cid) V6
Don't remember seeing a vent screen, will give a closer look.

[JZE72]

Replace those oil cooler lines if you have them or else you'll pay with a new 4.3 lol

Is it TBI or CPI? I think the CPI started in 93 and GM ditched TBI all together, which makes no sense cause TBI is bullet proof and CPI is a fail.

[supergregotti]

It's TBI...the distributor cap and rotor are the only problems I've had with it.

This is a backup vehicle for me, if the engine should ever need replaced...someone else will own it. I remember being told...if the engine needs changed in this vehicle the body has to be lifted 3" or something to gain access to the upper transmission bolts.

[sickntwstdtoy]

on all of my mud trucks i just take the cap off and spray it down with wd40 then put it back on, keeps corrosion from building up and i also drilled a 1/4in hole in the bottom to allow the water out, the wd40 lets the water bead up and run out the drain hole you make, many underwater episodes and after that never a failed ignition system. as for the lifting the body, basically true.

[supergregotti]

i also drilled a 1/4in hole in the bottom to allow the water out, the wd40 lets the water bead up and run out the drain hole you make

So you drill a hole through the base plate to allow water to drain? I have seen some applications where a vacuum line was attached to remove moisture, but never heard of an open hole, but hey, if it works......I'm all for it.
Thanks for the info.

[JZE72]

Its actually 6" body lift. Toyota scissor jacks work the best up front if you remove the bumper and grill. I did it once...its a nightmare. Stupid thing, a year later, still doesn't run right.

The dizzy should have a rubber ring on it so the cap can sit flat and seal. Maybe its not being aligned properly?

[supergregotti]

on all of my mud trucks i just take the cap off and spray it down with wd40 then put it back on, keeps corrosion from building up and i also drilled a 1/4in hole in the bottom to allow the water out, the wd40 lets the water bead up and run out the drain hole you make, many underwater episodes and after that never a failed ignition system. as for the lifting the body, basically true.

Removed the cap last night and sprayed it down with wd-40, also noticed the pcv pipe was off, so reconnected that, and drove it 40 miles to work and back today with no problems. Have not drilled the hole yet, but will do it soon....thanks.

[Black_83]

My dad used to have this problem all the time in his S-10. Usually would have to rip apart the distributor once every 6 months or so and clean it out. I think he finally decided to just replace the whole dizzy one year, and it hasn't had problems since, but it seems that this solution is more cost effective and probibly more effective in general.

[Rich64N]

Another issue with the early 4.3L Vortec is the EGR valve can get clogged with carbon chunks, causing a rough idle and stalling when you let off the gas. Not too tough to remove and clean (soaking in kerosene helps).

I haven't check my distributor in quite awhile, need to do that.

[supergregotti]

Still haven't solved the problem...seems to run fine when cold, but when I drive it somewhere, shut it off and start it again it runs like crap.
Thought it was the dizzy cap the last time because when it wouldn't restart, I took the air cleaner off and tried to start it , heard a pop, looked out under the hood and was like cool...flames. stepped off to the side of the truck and after the flames died down, I took the cap apart and cleaned everything, and it started up and I drove it home.

If it were the cap and rotor...it would run like crap all the time wouldn't it?

[supergregotti]

*Bump* Any ideas?