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View Full Version : A few new photos of my ma61



killbill oddy
11-06-2009, 03:35 PM
Firsty, hello from blighty. Hope your doing well:thumbsup:

Got some new wheels for my supra. They are compomotive ML's 1590
15" X 9" wide. Offsets are ET-14 front
ET -24 rear

Hope you like:naughty:

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00470.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00466.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00492.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00483.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00482.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00493.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00481.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00497.jpg


And a few pics of it with a TRD AE86 i am trying to make fit:32:
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00498.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00500.jpg

84ptype
11-06-2009, 03:45 PM
beefy looking wheel/tire combo..I like it...

what spoiler is that??

Domi
11-06-2009, 03:57 PM
Those wheels are amazing, they fit well the car.

alfun
11-06-2009, 04:49 PM
what spoiler is that??
1985 Corolla Hatchback TRD.

What tire size and suspension are you using?

killbill oddy
11-06-2009, 05:15 PM
Thanks guys:thumbsup:
Now, to answer some questions. suspension is

Nissan s13 top mounts
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00365.jpg

Tokiyo HP dampers
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00343.jpg

500lb front springs 7" long, And coilover sleeves welded on.
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00367-1.jpg

Standard chooped springs at the back, as soon converting the suspension to nissan S13 coilovers front and back:thumbsup:

Tyres are 205-60-15's , so not too skinny, but look good on a 9j rim


Oh, and yes, sorry.:duh: it was a corolla spoiler, i just widened it and chopped it around. Still working on it tbh:32:

Mk2 gold
11-07-2009, 04:07 AM
NICE Rims

Black_83
11-07-2009, 04:15 AM
^ I 2nd that. That's one sweet lookin ride, man.

'82supra
11-07-2009, 08:11 AM
...you scored! Nice work there! :thumbsup:

alfun
11-09-2009, 07:18 PM
Do those S13 top mounts bolt right up or did you have to drill new holes into them?

killbill oddy
11-10-2009, 12:40 PM
Do those S13 top mounts bolt right up or did you have to drill new holes into them?

Same pcd mate, just bolt straight in:thumbsup:

bigpanda16
12-08-2009, 09:26 PM
killer stance!
good work maan

safety61
12-11-2009, 06:13 PM
Hi killbill, love your wheels! That's a cool euro stance, on the deck with stretched skins! I would probably have kept the wheels in bed with me a little longer though. Up here in Southport, we like to get really close to a fat set of alloys!


http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww26/safety61/reddec2008.jpg

Domi
12-12-2009, 04:10 AM
Your wheels with Cooper Cobra's tires including white lettering are really cool on your car.

rt36
12-12-2009, 04:38 AM
killbill.... you have an awesome car, very tasteful.

and safety61, I wish I had a pair of those mirrors!
I've always liked the yellow fogs on red paint.

vdkk
12-12-2009, 07:08 AM
that is the style i want to replicate to the T
tirestretch sick offset and lowlowlowww.

Also what wing is that?

Tire Shredder
12-15-2009, 11:39 PM
very aggressive looking car!

I don't think those tokicos will last very long with 500lb springs, though... :(

killbill oddy
12-16-2009, 11:12 AM
very aggressive looking car!

I don't think those tokicos will last very long with 500lb springs, though... :(

Nah, your right! They are utter shit:32:
The rears aint too bad, but the fronts are crap, so are gunna be making some internally threaded sleeves that accept proper coilovers for the fronts.

If i were you guys in the :salute:, then i'd probably just order some of these
strut tubes..
http://www.serialnine.com/index.php?cPath=104

http://www.serialnine.com/images/tube0.jpg

http://www.serialnine.com/images/tube2.jpg



Cost me a bomb to import them sadly though :(
So, just gunna get my local machine shop to knock some up.:naughty:


Went drifting too. Found out the weaknesses in both me driving and the cars set up.
So, thats next boxes to tick.
Photos.


http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/P1060475-1.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/P1060482.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/P1060461-1.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/P1060464.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/P1060466-1.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/P1060460.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/P1060467-1.jpg

Mate took a few pics. i struggled on the big track with it:32:

Oh yeah, bought a red transformers sticker for it,:ugh:

killbill oddy
03-08-2010, 01:36 PM
Been having major ball aches with the car lattely:duh::32:
Firstly i ordered a complete set of uprated brake pads from a well known
u.k manufacturer shall we say. And basically they F$%ked up the design.
Then when i contacted them through the shop i ordered from that there was a problem with the design they got all shitty and basically left it to she shop to fund an alternative,
It took months for a new set of 4 pads as the other manufacturer of decent pads wasnt a stock item, In fact made to order:SM130 (1):

But now its rolling again i thought id make some cheap body parts to
"menace it up" a bit:naughty:
So got myself a volvo 740 splitter for not a lot of money:thumbsup:


http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00546.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00549.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00551.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00552.jpg


Need to make some side skirts for it now, Then convert it fully to Nissan s13 fitment coliovers and front hubs. 280mm discs and 4 x114.3 p.c.d means i wont have to bother with strut casings anymore. Just bolt the nissan hubs to the supra ball joints..Easy.....Well, thats the threory:rolleyes:
It WILL bloody work:duh::thumbsup:

RaceBredMK2
03-08-2010, 02:30 PM
nice pics the only way to find out limits are to test them;)

Treece-mk2supra
03-08-2010, 03:14 PM
are the nissan top mounts cheaper than the toyota ones??

killbill oddy
03-08-2010, 03:31 PM
are the nissan top mounts cheaper than the toyota ones??
They were to me! haha I got them off ebay for 70 a set, but if you wanted to use them for ONLY adjustable camber you would have to re -drill your strut tops about 30 degrees anti clockwise as when you bolt them in you get castor adjustment too.
Much faster steering back to centre, so for what i do with the car its perfect:naughty:

Cap'n 2jz
03-08-2010, 03:35 PM
^^ same question

REVto9K
04-02-2010, 10:22 PM
damn, that looks good. nice wheels!

killbill oddy
04-15-2010, 02:42 PM
]http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00573.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00575.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00574.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00576.jpg

I kinda like it, well i Have to like it really as the spoiler cost me 180, then i chopped it in half! so no turning back!

Also, im working on getting the S13 front suspension arms to fit,

Did a bit of measuring....:ugh:


http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00589.jpg

Ma61 arms are about 310mm (ish) centre to centre.


S13 arms are around 340- 350mm


]http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00587.jpg

so a lot more negative camber.....



Oh well:naughty:

waiting on coilovers for 5 weeks so will do some work to the rest of the suspension.

killbill oddy
08-03-2010, 05:10 PM
Got some new tyres, toyo T1R'S in a 50 sidewall, as my old tyres were shagged.
maybe from this:rolleyes:
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Image3055.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/29942_1383339276339_1617696155_9502.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/29942_1383339996357_1617696155_9502.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00592.jpg

http://www.facebook.com/#!/video/video.php?v=124521917572958&ref=mf
little piss about video:eatcorn: ... :rolleyes: ....If your a facebook ponce that is??

needed a new exhaust so did a straight through with a peco back box from a peugeot 306 diesel of all things. All explained in this link from my mate marks thread about the cars he gets at his welding company.
http://rat-look.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=3772&start=60
scroll down a bit and im towards the bottom:ugh:
(cars outside)




http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00599.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00597.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00596.jpg

Cap'n 2jz
08-03-2010, 05:32 PM
I'm surprised your trying to fit longer lower control arms on your car, what I'm doing is the exact opposite, looking for celica lower control arms to bring the strut assembly closer in to fit larger tires, the RA LCA is shorter than the MA LCA

Your losing a lot of your fender space for tire by putting a longer lower table.

Get camber plates if you want camber and keep your MA6x LCA!

killbill oddy
08-03-2010, 05:46 PM
I'm surprised your trying to fit longer lower control arms on your car, what I'm doing is the exact opposite, looking for celica lower control arms to bring the strut assembly closer in to fit larger tires, the RA LCA is shorter than the MA LCA

Your losing a lot of your fender space for tire by putting a longer lower table.



Get camber plates if you want camber and keep your MA6x LCA!


yeah, your right, the nissan arms are too long really, so junking them. waiting on the coilovers still, and aint got a lot of money at the moment, so just putting petrol in it is shit, esp when its 1.17 / litre:duh: bastard england:32:

Cap'n 2jz
08-03-2010, 07:35 PM
thats about $1.35 a liter in Canada, thats on the edge of being brutal.....we're paying around 1$ American a liter at the moment for 87 octane. 91 floats around 1.13$ a liter

Mk2 gold
08-04-2010, 05:12 AM
What front lip is that.. ?????
I just bought one for mk3 but doesnt fit well

We pay 1.90 dollars per liter 99 octan 95 octan is 1.70
Mk2 gold denmark

1Smooth85
08-04-2010, 11:53 AM
.[QUOTE=Mk2 gold;677614]What front lip is that.. ?????
I just bought one for mk3 but doesnt fit well]

Looks to be off of a Volvo 740, I am doing the same on my 85. They look really good and much better than the cressy ones

1Smooth85
08-04-2010, 11:54 AM
[QUOTE=Mk2 gold;677614]What front lip is that.. ?????
I just bought one for mk3 but doesnt fit well]

Looks to be off of a Volvo 740, I am doing the same on my 85. They look really good and much better than the cressy ones.

oops mods please feel free to delete one.

ride4life5995
08-04-2010, 02:02 PM
what year of volvo?

killbill oddy
08-04-2010, 02:39 PM
VOLVO 760'S and 940'S like this one
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/92/Volvo-940-Sedan.jpg

hope that helps ;)

few more pics of the front, as realised there isnt many! (before i got new tyres)

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/28481_389229172579_618912579_3851947_7943582_n.jpg


next to my mates corolla that was in for some work.


http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/29904_389229422579_618912579_3851953_4080444_n.jpg


http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/29067_385637502006_651592006_4523433_4564618_n.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/29067_385637482006_651592006_4523432_1373381_n.jpg
And next to my other mates nissan

ride4life5995
08-04-2010, 03:01 PM
thanks that does help. i am definatly gonna keep my eye out for one of those lips. that looks so mean haha

Mk2 gold
08-04-2010, 04:03 PM
Me too ... Im going hunting one of the next days.... My red one needs a lip in silver of couse.

Nice car you got there,,,
Have to show you mines too....

86 Red/ Silver and 83 gold...
http://www.bilgalleri.dk/uploads_xl_wm/1821223.jpg?12-02-2010%2014:05:26

TransAmBandit
08-04-2010, 10:37 PM
Same pcd mate, just bolt straight in:thumbsup:

Hey dude, nice car! I love the color and the wheels. Really liking the Volvo lip idea, I was considering it before after seeing it on a Cressida.

One question about the camber plates. What exactly does the Camber plates come with? Or what should they come with when you use the S13 plates? I have buddys that have S13s and the plates wont be a problem to find. Let me know please! Keep up the good work on the car man!

killbill oddy
08-05-2010, 06:26 AM
Thanks for the kind words buddy, And glad you like the colour!
Ok, i'll try to clear up some of the mystery for you. Camber plates should come with the inner plate wiith the bearings, and the outer plate with the studs. Same as any other aftermarket camber plates, like you would get with a cusco kit for example. The only difference is that plates like the Techno toy have offset studs that adjust camber only, so the sliders will adjust horizontally only.
Bolting in s13 plates means that instead of just sliding in one axis (y)
The nissan ones will be more like z axis, so you cannot adjust camber on its own, as the further you go in to -minus degrees this will also affect castor. You could always rotate the camber plates to horizontal and redrill the top mounts if you soley want camber adjustment, you would just have to clock the top mount hole position,by making a card ring divided into 360 degrees and rotate the ring 30 degrees (estimate) until the sliders line up horizontally, then centre punch and redrill.

Here's the ones i bought from a u.k E bay shop for reference,

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=350241951370
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-S13-S14-S14a-200SX-PILLOW-BALL-CAMBER-TOP-MOUNTS-/350241951370?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item518c0c0e8a#ht_1424wt_958

but if your buddies have s13's then if they got some coilovers spare, just get those off them and buy some serial nine strut tubes

http://www.serialnine.com/sites/serialnine.com/files/imagecache/product/tube0_0.jpg

http://www.serialnine.com/products/x7/suspension

killbill oddy
02-10-2011, 07:57 PM
http://wheelwarriors.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/img_9913.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSCF2534.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/MF4M8685.jpg

[http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/72280_444927440587_536175587_5795525_5922125_n.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/33577_444927655587_536175587_5795542_4770154_n.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00481-1.jpg

Its spent a bit of time on the ramp too, but more of that and Updates this weekend hopefully. (Its been a while):eekfacepalm:
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00475.jpg

TransAmBandit
02-11-2011, 02:21 AM
I didnt check the thread back for this, but what size are your wheels and what tire size are you running? Car looks sick dude! Keep it up!

killbill oddy
10-02-2011, 06:16 PM
And some more photo's. God i love these cars, i don't think you could get a more perfect all rounder for the price i paid, It's so damn reliable too!

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSCF0802.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSCF0803.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSCF0801.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0050-1.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0051-1.jpg

And a little drift video at santa pod near silverstone.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJOZDlX2qxc


Drove this car all day, used half a tank of fuel, the rest lasted till tonite! supra love

sowsley
10-02-2011, 07:39 PM
And some more photo's. God i love these cars, i don't think you could get a more perfect all rounder for the price i paid, It's so damn reliable too!

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSCF0802.jpg


Nice shot!

killbill oddy
10-02-2011, 09:05 PM
Nice shot!

Thanks! A few more then.

http://www.motormavens.com/emAlbum/albums/Daniel%20Bridle/Events/Retro%20Toyotas%20@%20The%20Ace%20Cafe!/_fullsize/retro-toyota-meet-ace-cafe-neil-walker-mk3-supra-compotive-ML-trd-16.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/MF4M1566.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/MF4M2012.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/MF4M1600.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0038-1.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0014-2-1.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0016-3-2.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0013-2.jpg


killed a wheel arch when a tyre exploded as i was drifting :(

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/driftingblowout.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0015-2-1.jpg

That's quite enough of that.

Since my last update i bought some parts.

Whiteline adjustables really sorted out the car.
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00561-1.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00653.jpg
http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/ab311/RATLOOK1/IMG00237-20110305-1809.jpg

s13 coilovers bought and will be ready to go on soon,
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0033-1-1.jpg

Bloody british weather meant i had to slit the front sleeves with a grinder as seized solid
Those bits are being scavanged for the brake pipe brackets, than going in the trash anyhow.
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0034-1.jpg

SupraFiend
11-20-2011, 04:53 PM
If the 240 coilovers don't work out, just order some sw20 rear dampers for your current front setup, they will work very nicely.

killbill oddy
11-20-2011, 07:01 PM
If the 240 coilovers don't work out, just order some sw20 rear dampers for your current front setup, they will work very nicely.

Thats what i've got on at the moment mate!
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/DSC00479-2.jpg


They're ok, but don't match the 450lb spring rate that well This will get rid of the droop and have full damper travel separate to ride height.
Cheap version of going the BC/ Megan racing route for me really, Having my own RCA'S lazer cut with stainless inserts for the bolts and locator.

Rear coilover sleeves done, (Press fit btw)
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0023-3-1.jpg
http://driftoy.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=151


http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0021-2-1.jpg
just waiting on payday to get a batch of the front strut tubes made, then will swap my struts over with my mate erny, who got me into supra's in the first place
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/301113_10150298338097580_618912579_7706346_2348260 _n.jpg
(blue 7mgte)

so he can have my shortened agx set up as it would be a crime to chop them up after they got modded.


Found this pic from ages ago, Thinks she looks quite nice :)

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4064/4579942428_0cf2c9bc62_o.jpg

from..http://danielbridlephoto.tumblr.com/page/118

angelotofu
11-24-2011, 02:17 AM
Wooa!! Digging the front lip & spoiler! nice drifting too! i gota hit u up for suspension advice!

killbill oddy
12-03-2011, 05:13 PM
Wooa!! Digging the front lip & spoiler! nice drifting too! i gota hit u up for suspension advice!

Anytime man, And cheers for the kind words.:thumbsup:
I'm determined to use the best materials for the job as well as not bankrupting me whilst doing it:rolleyes:


I'm gunna be sorting out the diff with a weir performance kit, and prob new clutch while i'm at it.
Poly subframe bushes, and as i've just sold my dw R32 skyline cs2 coilovers, i'll be using the red poly bushes i had made as LCA bushes! Just gotta drill them out a tad, but saves me making another set.

[hr]Car updates.. 8-)

She's looking pretty sorry for herself really.


A Screw left in the road killed a near brand new Toyo tyre, So had to bite the bullet and buy another 205-55-15 from camskill. 65:00 so, gone up a fiver from a few months ago :-/

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0029-2.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0030-3.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0033-4.jpg

Good tip, when tyres are on the pallet, they are strapped down tightly to get more on, so if you are gunna try and get them on a rim wider than the tyre, get some blocks of wood of equal length and wedge them in to splay the tyre, You won't need a bead blaster then ;)


As i have very little flex in my exhaust system, and the cars quite low, any speed humps i encounter usually ends with the supra's underside coming off worse than the afformentioned humps, Mainly the exhaust gets a kicking, :-/
And all along the bottom of it's length there are scratch marks. this also works the
manifold loose from the head, so need more flex!

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0031-3.jpg

Bought new exhaust manifold gasket , 7 head studs with nuts, and 2 x manifold to downpipe gaskets as the car is blowing like a tractor when it starts from cold. Mark is welding me in a flexi pipe to stop this happening again.

Onto suspension updates, and it's going well.
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0020-3.jpg

The s13 rear coilover conversion is nearly ready, just waiting on some inner sleeves from the machinst, and going to investigate if running the springs on the dampers is a viable option?
If so will make up some top hats and poly bushes. I have a 1.5" od strut brace
Tig welded in between the rear turrets already, so it's a good base to work from.

Got all the hardware to do it now.
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0040-2.jpg


Some 63.5mm dia. Seamless Cold Drawn Steel (CDS) has been ordered in 150mm lengths so the front weld on strut tubes will be available very soon. These have a meaty 5mm wall thickness, so No worries about them failing.

Exhaust updates. (or muffler as i think you guys call it?!)


Lately my exhaust has been royally pissing me off, Going over the awful speedbumps down my road have levered it about, and it has absolutely no flex in it. So it sounded like a shit tractor for the past few weeks, ok, maybe a month :-[

Ordered new gaskets, a pack of head studs, nuts and mark,
(my farbricator and bezzie mate ) Had a flexi pipe sitting around from a previous job, so a plan was hatched..

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0041-2.jpg
Old versus new, and apart from the soot and heat corrosion they were in decent order, but genuine new part's are always a pleasure to fit.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0042-3.jpg

After this photo was taken, i set to work on cleaning up all the gasket faces with a 1"paint scraper, a file and wire brush.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0044-3.jpg

Poor thing, I accidently snapped the D shaped intake runner when i was sliding off the rubber hoses, Bastard, it's after the AFM too, so, now i gotta find a way of sealing it up, (Or make a new one out of some ali tube:naughty:)

Fix it to get home attempt No.1 = 2 part epoxy resin, and bodge No.2 great big strips of gaffa tape worked too haha ::)

One stud had a helicoil with a terrible M8 thread, tried taking it out, but wouldn't budge, so managed to put a bolt in and do it up tight enough. Will look at it again another day, but time was an issue today.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0046-2.jpg
The old system had no flex at all, so with some more flex it shuld put less stress on the studs.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0045-1.jpg

Mark cleaning up his chopped flexipipe, before welding it into the system. He made a pattern copy of the coupling on the end, and chopped out the same length out of my downpipe.
I didnt get photo's of it as had my hands full putting it back together by 6pm, So will take some more tomorrow in the daylight ;)

killbill oddy
12-04-2011, 08:32 AM
Exhaust in the clear light of day photo's.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0050-2.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0051-2.jpg
New flexi pipe welded in with new joiner.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0049-1-2.jpg


Top gaskets are all bedded in now too. I forgot how nice this engine sounds when it's properly sealed and maintained.
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0053-2.jpg

Which got me thinking about the supercharger idea again, 4AGZE and where the charger runs under the intake mani got me wondering if a 5MGZE wouldnt be such a dissimilar thing, just spec everything up obviously! And opposite sides of the engine too.

http://img160.imageshack.us/img160/8617/dsc002297en.jpg

4AGZE

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0054-2.jpg
5MGE (Quite a bit of space under there, and less heat soak from exhaust too.

A 2JZGE may be the more sensible option in regards to a plug and play solution, but i'm not happy about having to spend money on a w57- 2jz bell housing, and no doubt i'll have a headache with all the wiring, so sorta putting it off for now

TransAmBandit
12-04-2011, 04:51 PM
Damn, that exhaust is tucked up nicely. I have to redo mine like that some day. Good work man!

killbill oddy
12-19-2011, 04:02 PM
Damn, that exhaust is tucked up nicely. I have to redo mine like that some day. Good work man!

Cheers! I can't take the credit for the welding though. :ugh: Mark's Awesome with the fabrication work, so i rely on his judgement.

A little update.
Got sum more bits through the post. Not much chance of fitting them this year though as Marks workshop has another Beetle crisis going on. :-X

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0061-1.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0060-3.jpg

70 Clutch, hasn't got springs in so lets see if you do get what you pay for.
Incidently the same part no. for the Earlier Mk3 7MGE (upto 1988)

And the front Poly bushes that i need to start the bushfest. :alschaser
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0062-2.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0064-1.jpg

Also, i got some Mazda RX7 FD3S 4 pot front calipers off ebay which i got for a steal price of 52. 8-)
Arrived today &,Painted a fetching Brembo red, so will look quite nice!.
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0068-1-1.jpg

Reason i went for these instead of the usual Nissan S14/ 300ZX ones is the mazda discs are 22mm wide when new, Ma61 supra's are 20mm so dont have to stress about finding discs to suit and running big wheels. The nissan ones in the photo belong to supraslide, but havent heard from him in ages :(
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0071-1.jpg

Caliper spacing is pretty off, :smash: But much lighter than the Nissan s14 iron ones. Was gunna do a weight comparison but cant find the scales, Ah well, less unsprung weights the main thing.
( Nissan s14 ones line up with std brackets ) so will have to measure up, Make a pattern, then Lazer cut some brackets out of some overkill EN24T Plate steel. just to be sure.:D
Then,Will get new Brembo or slotted discs and probably some EBC pads to compliment the set up.

Other possibles are u.k spec Nissan s13 'facelift' front disc's as they are 280mm x 22mm and a 4 x 114.3 stud pattern.. see link >http://www.dcperformance.co.uk/cheap/136352/nissan/ebc-standard-front-brake-discs/d822.html
but sit 50mm high as opposed to our 26mm. Will have to see, with an old disc. but it would move the caliper away from the inner spokes quite a bit.


Other things to source are a 1" Mk3 supra Brake master cylinder, but as i'm already running the 7/8" Celica Supra master on a mk3 supra Brake booster i know its gunna be plain sailing.
Brake pipes are same fitting M10 x 1.0mm so i can order the Goodrich braided line kit. and then think about the rears...


After x mas i'll get my Weir performance Goodies to sort out the standard 7.5" 2 way diff's worn lock weakness.:smash:
http://www.weirperformance.com/images/553_maxgripSupra.jpg
Weir Performance - MAXGRIP LSD Kits (http://www.weirperformance.com/maxgriplsdkits.html)


And i get my front strut tubes back from the machinist hopefully tomorrow :)

Made from 63.5mm OD seamless cold drawn steel (mechanical)
Keeping my mouth shut on the exact specs as i'm hoping to sell a few sets, first:laugh: but will post up some photo's soon.:thumbsup:

killbill oddy
12-29-2011, 02:43 PM
And here we are! fresh from the machinist ;D

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0088.jpg
That fresh!

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0087.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/PB180206.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/PB180207.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/PB180208.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/PB180209.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/PB180212.jpg


These will fit any 50mm x 1.5 mm coilover, so Apex, BC, Megan,
And a whole heap of others, ;) And Any car with a 2" od strut:naughty:

Just gotta do a suspension swap with my mate, as i dont want to chop mine up as they've had threaded sleeves welded on and the 40mm shortened mr2 agx treatment, so best i have his standard ones to chop/ weld

killbill oddy
01-09-2012, 08:23 PM
Decided to do a write up and a bit of a fitting guide if you guy's are thinking of going down the same route..


Ok, first thing to take into account is that you will have to get your hand dirty, It's not a direct fit so some basic tool's are needed ;)

* A Trolley jack / flat surface and axle stands/ wheel chocks

* A decent Bench Vice

* Hacksaw with a new blade.

* Copper Hammer (nice weight one)

* C spanners (make sure you get them with the coilovers)

* A round/ flat metal file/ and some Emery cloth.

* Copper grease / anti seize compound


Also, if you have a low trolley jack, and if you have enough room to lift the back up from the diff, Do that, It makes life a whole lot easier with both wheels on/off at the same time ;D

[hr]


http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/PB280231.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/PB280232.jpg

Loosen the nyloc nut at the top of your new coilover and slide off the S13 Pillowball top mounts, along with the top and bottom spacer hats.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/PB280230.jpg



Next, Dig out the standard Rubber bushes from your old MA61 dampers (If they are perished, buy some Superpro poly replacments, No point putting any old crap back on. ::)
My rubber ones were like new, so i will get some later on.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/PB280234.jpg

And arrange them like pictured.
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/PB280235.jpg
the curved washers on the top and bottom bush SHOULD cup the bushes, so make sure you put them how i pictured.
the middle washer is a centre locator to guide the damper strut in straight. The washers may not fit, so a bit of filing will be involved. Not a lot though!

[hr]


Next step is the bottom mount,
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/PB280214.jpg
before you go any further, and if your using second hand Coilovers Make sure all the threads are free to turn, so spend some serious time cleaning everything till they're like new .


http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/PB280216.jpg
Notice i've already pressed in the spacer tubes.
Also, this is the bit if your using New dampers your warranty will go out the window, as this next bit requires some cutting.. :'(
(But you DO want decent/ cheap suspension don't you?! )
My advice, If your dampers do blow, just send them back the broken shock , and keep the bottom tube .So, don't be a Pussy and get it done. :o

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/PB280215.jpg
As you can see in the picture ^ i have removed one of the lips on the bottom mount. (Reason will become apparent in next pic)

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/PB280224.jpg
As you can see, the damper sleeve is longer than the lug, but its not so bad, the s13 dampers had some little lips which makes for awesome cutting guides..

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/PB280219.jpg
I only removed one lip as i had some 16mm OD washers to make up the difference. If i were you, and had more time i'd trim them both so you use less washers .

Bolt's need to be 30mm long, but try finding them :'(
I just chopped them down as left the ones i did have to supply at work ::)

This is the next fun bit. Clean up your bottom lugs! (not pictured)

The tolerences for the lugs were awful, Are designed to support rubber bushes, plus 20 odd years of wear means they are not usually dead on 16mm, So spend a bit of time with some emery cloth/ glass paper till the bottom Damper tubes (with my sleeves) slide on nicely without lateral movement. So DON'T go mental with a dremmel :-/ It's hardly any material, so go SLOW!


[hr]


Your nearly there, so don't lose faith yet man! ;)

Next you want to take apart the damper sleeves and Grease the absolute crap out the female bottom damper tubes. And i mean/ don't scrimp on the grease, really go to town on it!

This is the bit where a low trolley jack is so useful, jacking the back up from the diff allows you to get the springs sitting right, and more level than doing one side at a time.

Reassemble, then jack up the car from diff (always support) & remove the wheels, then position the top of the damper through the holes
Making sure all bushes and washers are in the correct order.
Lightly wind on the nut a couple of turns.

DON'T fully tighten as this gives the dampers some much needed movement.

Put the wheels back on, and nip up the wheel nuts, you WILL need to take it off again, so just do them up to hold the wheel.
Drop the car so the weights fully supported by the springs.. ie, allow the holes on the bottom damper tubes to line up about 0.5- 0.75" BELOW the bottom lugs.
push the bottom of the damper up to meet with the lugs and make sure the strut rod is centered through the top mount. reason for doing this is It's much kinder on the damper units to have a bit of droop as the wheel sometimes wants to drop slightly when going over a crest/ speed hump ect.
Make sure when you have enough travel in the damper though!, first test drive i did resulted in a shit scary no travel moment! :-[ wasn't a good experience either ::) so make sure you have near full stroke on the piston.

if you've cleaned up the lugs properly it should slide on with a few light taps with a COPPER hammer, Ma61 bottom lugs are not horizontal to the damper sleeve by the way
(probably L -110 / R- 250 degrees clocked on a 360 deg scale ) so you need to give them a bit of encouragement till the poly bush allows the sleeve to slide on.
Its not a crazy angle though, so wont cause any long term damage ;)



If you've ever experienced a knocking sound, this is usually the Root cause, hence why lots of posh coilovers now come with preload helper springs below the main ones.


Ok, so Now everything is lined up, cleaned and lubricated
the home stretch in sight! 8-)

Once you've Slid the bottom mounts over the lugs, ( Don't forget to grease) observe the gap and space the remainder with some washers like i've done, hell, you could even use the sleeves you took off the Nissan top mounts if they're the same size but a few washers wont hurt to space out the remainder
(Less are needed if you take off both lips)

Thread in the new 30mm bottom bolt (Grease!) and fit spring washer between the bolt head and the original cup washer.
[hr]





Fully tighten the tops (good idea to replace the nuts if Nylocs)

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/PB280226.jpg

Jack up the car again and remove the wheels (last time! ;) )

you should be looking at something very similar to this..
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/PB280228-1.jpg

You then will need to tighten up the locking collars , so, once again everyone! "GREASE" Haha ;D Yeah, wipe a bit of grease between the end of the threads , then wind the collar down over the grease till it nips up against the top of the bottom tube.
Grab you c spanner and tighten them up till your happy.
(A few taps with the copper hammer against the spanner is my technique)

Refit wheels, drop car, then chill! you've done well, so, before you take it out for a drive remember to set your dampers to an equal level, (i set mine to 16/32 clicks)
and as stated before, check you got near full piston travel when the car is back on the floor, you may need to adjust again when the car has settled on the springs. ;)









Oh, and to anyone who want's to know about running the springs the same as the S13, check pic below...


http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/PB280218.jpg
Picture ^ shows the amount of clearance between the damper unit and the body of the car. The Nissan S13 2.5" dia springs
would def. foul against the body. there's about 20mm between them at the bottom, and gets tighter as you go up!

I have Whiteline Anti Roll bars on my car, so the spring rate doesn't have to be really hard to support the weight of the car. And now i can just turn the dampers up on a drift/ track day + tyre pressure makes more of a difference to how i want it to drive thats why I just have shortened originals, but you guys have the Eibach option for quite a while!
also, i don't really touch the rear ride height anymore, sits just above the speed hump height down my road :P

Hope this has been useful to you guys anyhow! ;)

alfun
01-09-2012, 09:50 PM
And here we are! fresh from the machinist ;D

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/PB180212.jpg

Are these pretty much the same as SERIALNINE DIY Weld-On Strut Tubes (http://www.serialnine.com/content/x7-suspension#slider-nid48)?


you should be looking at something very similar to this..
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/PB280228-1.jpg
Are you going to move the spring over to where the shock is to make it coilover? If you are maybe these would help? Rear weld in perches (http://jzxproject.com/bbs/index.php?showtopic=7287&view=findpost&p=99888).

killbill oddy
01-10-2012, 08:04 AM
Are these pretty much the same as SERIALNINE DIY Weld-On Strut Tubes (http://www.serialnine.com/content/x7-suspension#slider-nid48)?

Are you going to move the spring over to where the shock is to make it coilover? If you are maybe these would help? Rear weld in perches (http://jzxproject.com/bbs/index.php?showtopic=7287&view=findpost&p=99888).



I suppose they are very similar, both do the same job but never seen the serialnine ones in the flesh, so dont know how different they are (i think mine are shorter) still, they're pretty easy to make,so i just do a few batches to sell to people on my site ($140 plus shipping) If your interested p.m me, i dont wanna get banned for hawking my shit!



and reply to second Q.

No, i cant see any advantage to it really, original design is very similar to E30 m3 se t up, and if it's good enough for a multiple championship winning touring car then it's more than adaquate for me, quite happy at the moment with the shortened standard springs so some time i'll probably go for the eibach springs and make some adjustable spring platfroms.
By the way alfun, i do laugh at your bluntness in your questions, no beating around the bush with you is there?"!! :P

1SupraMk2
01-11-2012, 12:50 PM
I do like!

1SupraMk2
01-12-2012, 10:24 AM
I like your wheels, very UK looking. They remind me of MiniLites found on classic British cars.

killbill oddy
01-29-2012, 07:29 AM
I like your wheels, very UK looking. They remind me of MiniLites found on classic British cars.

Cheers buddy, yeah, little known fact that Wattabes are also a copy of British Minilite wheels, so rather than pay mental money for some jap copies of uk wheels, i thought i'd just go direct and back to the roots!

We got the front coilovers fitted today using my new strut tubes and damn, i'm good ;D
The fit was perfect, and they are tbh bloody amazing, a complete night and day difference to how the car drives now.

Just designing my RCA's now, so hopefully will be done soon.

Anyway, onto the write up... 8-)

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7009/6778284709_b14ac9618f_b.jpg

After you have stripped the struts of the springs and dampers you will have your S13 coilovers and Driftoy strut tubes.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7170/6778280171_12bdeaccbc_b.jpg

Next thing is to remove the brake brackets, hub/ discs and disc shield, A vice is a must, air tools and penetrating fluid are also reccomended!

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7152/6778274813_31739a92c0_b.jpg
After stripping you should be left with this.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7148/6778269147_ba6f89b471_b.jpg
With everything off.


While it's in the vice its a good time to Mark with a scribe 1" from the bottom all the way round.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7152/6778263397_763f5b0c8a_b.jpg
This is plenty material, and you'll NEVER run a ma61 that low to require any shorter.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7010/6778253401_14c1da7164_b.jpg
Struts all stripped and marked up for cutting.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7009/6778249509_3c42468a32_b.jpg
I have a Mark, which is about the best fabrication asset you can have, If you don't have a mark to hand Send me your struts for conversion. :)


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7148/6778241841_71c4ea03c2_b.jpg
Mark thrives on Tea and banter, so i keep him topped up regularly with both to ensure he performs to full operational capability.


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7151/6778234601_01a9574858_b.jpg
Once their chopped they look like this.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7168/6778228205_d1330caf97_b.jpg
Next job is to clean them up with a wire wheel.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7033/6778221537_3743cde826_b.jpg
How clean ??? This clean.
Also, put a radius around the edge you just removed.


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7023/6778215061_586c810ed4_b.jpg


Driftoy sleeves are a press fit, so Bottle jack/ fly press is needed.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7004/6778210715_50209756b7_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7159/6778205211_823c49ec76_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7175/6778297933_762b922aa9_b.jpg


On to welding.



http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7161/6778184429_a89a10a528_b.jpg
Mark first tack welded the sleeves in 4 spots.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7008/6778199705_80cfe4433e_b.jpg
Then fusion welded the first run. ( Fusion welding is without filler rods)


He did 3 runs in total. 2 with filler rods were done on a turn table.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7148/6778177345_4f6d249e29_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7167/6778193497_71d779e24c_b.jpg


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7167/6778164787_f8425a6b1b_b.jpg
First one done, and Brake pipe brackets slotted and welded on.


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7145/6778148231_58a046db65_b.jpg
When cleaned up they looked like this, That's proper welding! :-X

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7020/6778135321_a65c968557_b.jpg


So, Now they need paint,
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7171/6778154873_da02400da3_b.jpg
A zinc based primer is prob the best one to use as the base coat, then choose whatever colour you like, Personally satin black is the only can i need!

Refit everything how it came off the car. (sorry about blurry pics)

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7001/6778124851_3d5e23a3e7_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7005/6778118255_79796c5327_b.jpg

killbill oddy
05-07-2012, 09:17 AM
I got some RCA's from techno toy tuning this week to sort out my bump steer issue's I was going to make my own, but decided to concentrate on making some for cars not already catered for.

It also gave me an opportunity to take some decent pictures of the Driftoy sleeves as the ones above are pretty terrible :-/

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0100.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0101.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0103.jpg
T3 RCA'S fitted. See the Quality of welding with the Driftoy sleeves 8-)

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0105.jpg

Sleeves Still available direct from me 90 + p&p

In other news...

I got given a lightened and balanced flywheel from my mate ernie , so fitted that along with the clutch >

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0132-1.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0129-1.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0128-1.jpg


And my weir performance kit turned up! I foolishly didnt fit it because i needed to get new oil seals and gaskets from toyota , and i had a drift day booked up the pod, so if i risked reusing the old seals and it failed i'd be fucked >:(

Turns out the diff was quite poorly anyway, and a days drifting made it terminal, as you will hear in the video!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TIYjncXcPt8&feature=player_embedded



So, Diff shit itself at pod and i was car less for a while after it make some god awful noises a few days after the big clunk
Rather than pulling out the diff for a 50/50 rebuild i decided to just find another diff. Trouble is that all the Lotus eclat excel guys had been robbing the 7.5 lsds so i was chasing around for a while to find a manual I settled for an auto lsd which came in at a whopping 114 all in. Tcb autoparts in cornwall are the nuts for sporty toyota stuff.:nod:


http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0160.jpg


http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0157.jpg
Pulled out the manual one


http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0156.jpg


http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0159.jpg
Auto feels nice and tight as they don't really get abused thanks to the kickdown.

I fitted it yesterday,And took it out for the test drive and all seems well, Not sure what ratio i got with it, but the final drive ratio is so close to the manual i can't really tell much difference apart from maybe being a slight bit quicker off the line.
Now this diffs fitted i will put the manual one apart properly
for its rebuild with weir parts :nod:
I took the Backplate off, and apart from some horrid coloured oil everything looks undamaged and reusable. Lots of play in the clutch plates between the diff body which indicates a well worn lsd, but from the ammount of shit i've gave it in 4 years of ownership that's more than to be expected ;D

killbill oddy
05-07-2012, 06:11 PM
I had a bit of time to pull the old 2 way lsd apart today and examine the causes of the failure. Poor maintainance by Me was the likely culprit :-[ But it never does any harm to dig a bit further!
I was quite surprised to see nothing was ripped to shreads but the next series of photo's will hopefully show you whats lurking inside that diff case.
So call this a "How to dismantle your 7.5"lsd diff guide"

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0162.jpg
Nice clean bench to start with. Drained diff oil and loosened diff
back plate.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0163.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0165.jpg
Now you can see the sprung plates in the Diff body.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0166.jpg
A bit more closely...

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0167.jpg
Time to loosen the rear bearing carriers with a 14mm socket.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0168.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0169.jpg
And now is a good time to punch match marks on the casing
before it all comes apart.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0170.jpg
I did the same to line the casing with the crown wheel too.


To pop out the half shafts i just used a short pry bar between the back of the 14mm drive stud and casing.
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0172.jpg

The shafts are held in with sprung C clips so don't need a crank puller.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0171.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0173.jpg

Once they pop out.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0174.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0177.jpg
You can remove the bearing cradles and bolts. If you eat as much Chinese Takeaway as i do, the plastic food containers are awesome for keeping the Left /Right side separate.

LABEL EVERYTHING!!! THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0176.jpg
Your now ready to pull the diff from the casing. Needs to be wiggled a bit but comes out ok.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0178.jpg
Clean up around the bench and put everything else to one side.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0179.jpg
...Not like this Shit Nest i got going on!

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0180.jpg
Spiral grooves inside the inner race of the bearing are a nice touch. If you have a 3 leg bearing puller to hand at this point, use it. doubt your gunna be stupid enough to re use the old ones?!

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0181.jpg
Photo of the inside of the casing with pinion wheel at the back.


Now, Vice time

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0182.jpg
Take the C clip off the half shaft and use it to stand the diff up in the vice. Break the tension of all 8 14mm bolts with a windy gun.


http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0183.jpg
In the above shots i have rotated the Diff Casing against the resistance of the shaft clockwise. You can see the big top plate
above the springs hit the right side of the slotted casing.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0184.jpg
Now, when i rotate it counter clockwise it hits the left side of the slotted casing. This is not good, there should be more resistance.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0185.jpg
Once the Top cover bolts have been freed off put the diff back on the bench.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0186.jpg
The top cover is under tension from the springs so all bolts need backing off.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0187.jpg
Once undone you can remove the top cover.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0188.jpg

This is the bit you need to label up and NOT Mismatch
[hr]


http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0189.jpg

Three clutch pressure plates, one of which was worn to shit!
Also notice there is an unused spline on the gear shaft.
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/CopyofPhoto0191.jpg
these diffs had no clutch discs from the factory, but the weir kit will make use of those splines :)

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0190.jpg

Put those to one side for now.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0192.jpg


http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0193.jpg
Now to remove the Internals.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0195.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0196.jpg
With brass thrust washers on top.


why my diff failed?!

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0194.jpg
Snapped spring would account for the noise and shit lock up!


http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0197.jpg
Bottom gear with Brass thrust washer left on top. See the grooves for Lubrication.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0198.jpg
Three bottom clutch friction plates left.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0200.jpg
I need to stack these up and replicate the thickness to my new weir kit so need to keep these safe.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0201.jpg
So, that's how you take one apart. Now time to order a solid crush sleeve from weir to make sure nothing is a weak link to fail again..

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0141-1.jpg

As you can see the Weir maxgrip kits i already have contains 2 new Splined clutch discs and 4 new friction plates instead of the weak standard 6 friction plates, So will essentially make these Diff's lock up properly as they are pretty naff once the friction plates have worn.

floridamtbiker9
05-08-2012, 01:11 AM
WOW, I wish I had the time, money, and the tools you guys have. Awesome mods. I just buy a project car. A 1986 (not 1986-1/2) supra non turbo for $900 USA dollars. Needs body, suspension, a/c & heating, electrical work.

I eventually want get into Autocross racing again. Years ago, I used race a TR8 (1982 last year in production and titled).

I am open and willing to listen suggestions, ideas, advice on how to improve my supra.

Please note I am a college student and work full time. I use my car for work and college.
Therefore it can not be down for more than a day or two.

Thank you in advance.

Dan.

rsdeo
08-15-2012, 04:32 PM
Speedhunters
http://cdn.speedhunters.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/PMcG-RTG2012-40.jpg

killbill oddy
08-16-2012, 06:30 PM
haha, thanks rsdeo!:thumbsup: (I'm the guy with the Grey t shirt and beard in that photo)
Flying the Ma61 Flag on Speedhunters! Here's a link to the Meet on speedhunters and Dep-o Magazine for some
nice photos of the other cool cars that were there.
http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/08/a-casual-affair-rtg-ace-cafe/

http://www.dep-o.co.uk/events/retro-toyotas-at-ace-cafe/


Same Angle, different Eye... (wish i lowered the front a bit more, but thought it would rub on the drive up
(it didnt!)

http://www.dep-o.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/retro-jap-ace-cafe-201236-620x413.jpg


In other news..
I've been looking into an affordable Brake upgrade kit for those who wish to have a Sharper Braking Performance from their Ma61's.
I'll be running some Mazda FD 4 pot front Calipers as they are Light Aluminium Calipers and are well known for their stopping power.
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/FILE0068-1-1.jpg
They Accept 22mm wide Brake discs and Regularly can be bought Second hand for around the 100- 120 mark.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=mazda+rx7+brake+caliper

Brackets will be lazercut from strong EN24T steel plate so no worries of failures.

For discs there a few options, Namely from a Peugeot 306-gti-6
http://www.dcperformance.co.uk/cheap/136153/peugeot/ebc-standard-front-brake-discs/d612.html

The centre bore is 66mm so 10mm smaller than the Ma61's 76mm bore. That's easily fixed with machining on the lathe
and being a 4 x 108mm pcd, The discs can easily be redrilled. to the required 4 x 100mm pcd.
(uses M10 holes/ bolts on the Supra hubs)

The width is the same 22mm for the MAZDA RX7 Calipers and the Disc height is 27mm, so only 1mm off our 26mm high Ma61 supra Discs.That means no Rubbing on the Steering arm/ track rod end whilst still running the brakes inboard.
Less Machining than running an adapted Nissan kit as well as less Unsprung weight. and no need for new wheel studs due to to no change in track width.
You would need to run At least 15" wheels to run this set up though. ;)



http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7255/7767725708_5cc57a4bb8.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7767725708/)
Photo0284 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7767725708/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8282/7767726318_4ea8818dd5.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7767726318/)
Photo0283 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7767726318/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8281/7767726936_c3a6fb34f5.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7767726936/)
Photo0282 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7767726936/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7258/7767727490_1c38e8459c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7767727490/)
Photo0281 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7767727490/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8287/7767728208_87d39f7634.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7767728208/)
Photo0286 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7767728208/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

Hopefully have them mocked up on the car Early Next week.

The Discs only cost 47.50 a pair, so not really breaking the Bank :o Although i'd recommend upgrading to the larger Mk3 Brake booster/ master cylinder for sharper braking response
as well as braided hoses and dot 4 fluid.


I had a bit of a slow one at my Day job today, so decided to book the afternoon off to concentrate on the Brake kit. 8-)

I had a set of Hubs with discs kicking about at my Fabricators shop, so went up to the Estate and took some proper measurements as well as speak to the Machinist Next Door.
He was just running CNC batches so had a bit of time to Adjust the discs on the spot! (literally about 20mins from start to finish!



http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8288/7775351054_03d2133862_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775351054/)
ma61 height v's 306 gti-6 disc. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775351054/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8421/7775350358_c0ecd57bdc_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775350358/)
Photo0290 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775350358/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8293/7775351748_fd8b12ea85_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775351748/)
Comparison shot. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775351748/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8438/7775334050_8e29e015bc_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775334050/)
258mm dia ma61 Disc vs 283mm dia 306 GTI-6 Disc (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775334050/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7266/7775347244_f26eec91c6_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775347244/)
New disc Centre bore Enlarged to 76mm & new M10 holes drilled for 4 x100mm Toyota Hubs. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775347244/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8302/7775347944_a9f45a4618_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775347944/)
New disc Centre bore Enlarged to 76mm & new M10 holes drilled for 4 x100mm Toyota Hubs (Close up) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775347944/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8434/7775348540_96a4f7ff6a_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775348540/)
Bolted up to Hub. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775348540/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8436/7775346310_a4e20b6369_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775346310/)
25mm larger Discs! (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775346310/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8424/7775349082_67ebec68df_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775349082/)
Side shot fitted to Hub. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775349082/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8281/7775349740_392aba75b6_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775349740/)
Height Difference of 25mm & 2mm thicker over stock Ma61 discs. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775349740/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8443/7775352466_744398888c_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775352466/)
soon to be fitted to car, Stay tuned for further updates. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7775352466/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

FPZero
08-16-2012, 07:10 PM
Read this earlier. Always good to see these cars getting some much deserved love. Car looks great like always btw.

killbill oddy
08-16-2012, 08:30 PM
Read this earlier. Always good to see these cars getting some much deserved love. Car looks great like always btw.

Thanks man, I'm really stoked the car got so much attention, a bit of a forgotton Hero i think, and needs to be shown off how cool and Practical they really are as everyday daily drives / drift cars.
Need to get on with making some Rear Camber Adjusters now, really not happy how lifestyler the rear wheels look (although, quite good for drifting!)

In other news, i Bought an Eaton M90 Supercharger from a jaguar X300.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-XJR-X-300-SUPERCHARGER-/251130666389?roken=WvuCPh
It's a short Snout model Off a 4.0 litre straight six, and bolts on same side as where the Aircon compressor goes. I want to make it switchable (like mad max haha) or like on a Toyota sc14 charger via using the now obsolete Aircon Button, But i'm going to have to make the pulley the right size so the ratios arn't mental
and it blows up. Aiming for only Around 8-10 psi, but have to fit a thicker head gasket as my 1984 model is 9.2.1 compression ratio.

It's early days, but am picking up a free 70k Engine from a well looked after Auto car so will use that as the Mock up so i dont keep having to take the car apart to make things. still gotta Get some bigger injectors
but already got a Dastek Unichip Piggyback Ecu and a Walbro 255Lp/h Fuel pump from My old Nissan s13
(Same part No.) So might have to go from MAF to Map Sensor? Dunno, will cross that bridge when i come to it!

And you may say, "why the hell do you want to supercharge it when turbo's are easier to do, and are more efficient you limey son of a bitch!! (with bad teeth)

My answer to that is, No Lag from idle up to redline, Waay less heat, which in a drift car is paramount to reliability, and General Driveability with the option to switch it on and off (which you can't do with a turbo)
since i'm using an M90 charger off a straight six engine i'm hoping, so long as i move the MAF over to the other side , and move a few things around a bit the Weight shouldnt be too bad. Wrestling with Intercooler V's Charge cooler At the moment, But Probably go with an air to air intercooler for less to worry about if i hit something whilst drifting.
As i'm not going to be running the M90 charger anywhere near flat out, the air should be quite a low temp
so the Cooling side isn't as vitally important as it would be on a turbo'd engine.

Well, thats the Theory anyhow, see me in about 6 months when i have Cut hands and lost the will to live after worrying about Pipework routing day and night...:duh:

CarFreek
08-17-2012, 12:56 AM
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r73/planetaryfuels/2011%20Goodguys/86SDR006.jpg Pic of my SC-14 equipped 5mge. Had an Eaton available to me, but chose SC-14 because of easier mounting/manifold/packaging. Its Mad-Max style with a switch inside cabin. 5-6 lbs of boost, RRFPR, no intercooler....

racefanfoster
08-17-2012, 01:20 AM
Nice and chunky.

killbill oddy
08-17-2012, 09:00 AM
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r73/planetaryfuels/2011%20Goodguys/86SDR006.jpg Pic of my SC-14 equipped 5mge. Had an Eaton available to me, but chose SC-14 because of easier mounting/manifold/packaging. Its Mad-Max style with a switch inside cabin. 5-6 lbs of boost, RRFPR, no intercooler....

Thanks for posting the picture man:thumbsup:
Thats quite interesting to see actually, i want to put it down where the Aircon pump used to sit on mine as i dont want to move the power steering pump over.
Looking at the SC14 it's quite weird to see the intake on the side as opposed to going through the back like on my eaton unit.

What bottom pulley did you run to make that fit? i suppose the sc14 pulley is the same amount of ribs as the
Ma61 pulley? Shame the sc14 pulley is so big really, i'd have to modify the Keyway to get ti to fit the eaton, but it looks a bit Big to produce decent boost, and i've never seen one in the flesh to compare.
Cant find a 2nd hand sc14 Clutch pulley anywhere! A bit annoying, Similar deal with the Merc ones but being as they are M62 Chargers on slk's ect i'd have to modify it anyhow. Biggest headache at the moment is figuring out how to run the belt so anyhelp would be greatly appreciated :32::thumbsup:

i've bought it now, so its gotta work, otherwise i'm a massive failure...

killbill oddy
08-17-2012, 11:30 AM
Well, supercharger Arrived today.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8442/7802230006_270e1b347b_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7802230006/)
Photo0299 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7802230006/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8301/7802228156_1a7a49fb32.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7802228156/)
Photo0302 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7802228156/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

Needs a rebuild, so will be buying a kit from the States no doubt.
Best be safer than sorry really :-/

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7252/7802230642_5e14f6f69d.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7802230642/)
Photo0303 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7802230642/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

I had a spare Ma61 Alternator belt that i need to fit, Just out of curiosity, ??? i wanted to see if it fit the Jag pulley on the Charger ?

Result = Spot on :o 8-)

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8422/7802229370_f6c349bf4b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7802229370/)
Photo0300 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7802229370/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

I Mean perfect! ( who Knew!!)

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8441/7802228740_38dd814113.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7802228740/)
Photo0301 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7802228740/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

Now, that gives me the option to either find a longer Toyota Belt that fits, or have a look at the Jag x300 Belt length, either way, thats the Pulley's sorted. ;D

Next i moved the battery out the way, and spinning the pipe round 180 deg to see what clearance is like.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7275/7802491310_1fba5b54ae.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7802491310/)
Photo0307 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7802491310/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8427/7802489198_45d6af01c9.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7802489198/)
Photo0306 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7802489198/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8300/7802490402_bbb5458b30.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7802490402/)
Photo0304 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7802490402/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

The Cavern! Need to move the rad though, so save mock up for another day..

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8293/7802489748_b5f786079c_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7802489748/)
Photo0305 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7802489748/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

then look at back plate design, fabbing up some brackets to suit, as well as a belt tensioner, but i can do all that on the spare engine i'm getting soon.

CarFreek
08-17-2012, 10:33 PM
I love how your car is coming along. Its great to see someone putting together another supercharged MKII. I havent seen that version of the eaton yet. The ones readily available to us at wreckers here in the states are from the 3.8 ford t-bird application. They have intakes in the back, and mount direct to the intake. The amount of custom work needed to make one work on a straight six made me go SC-14. SC-14s are used here in the states primarily as upgrades for the SC-12 equipped MR-2s, although one guy put together an SC-14/turbo combo for his MR-2. Smaller SC-14 pulleys are mainly available custom built without the electric clutch. Theres an outfit in Australia that offers a 25% smaller electric clutch one, and a local guy can fab me up an equivalent , but the whole objective was to keep it low-boost, and simple. No inter-cooler, No standalone, short intake path to maximize blower output, etc. The electric clutch was highly desirable to me, as my car is daily driven, and the SC-14 tends to burn up quickly under constant use. In the oe application, its switched on only under low vacuum/high throttle situations. Ive got the pulley wired to 2 switches, one is overall power(enable), and then the power switch is a hooded toggle I can flip on and off quickly. I didnt want to be able to accidentally trigger it on, or off. Ive converted my driven accessories to 7m components. For the alternator, I used a 7m alt relocation kit that puts it where the A/C was. I had a local alternator shop convert the pulley to a v-drive, and use the a/c position on the 5m crank pulley to drive it, along with the 5m A/C tensioner. Im running a 7m power steering pump where the 5m alternator use to sit, using the 7m p/s lower bracket to mount it, and the 5m alt bracket/tensioner to tension it. The blower belt is routed around blower, old alt position on crank pulley, and the 7m p/s pulley. The 7m p/s pulley acts as blower belt tensioner. 7m pulley is only 4 rib, sc-14 pulley is 5 rib, and crank pulley is 7 rib, so I had to use a 4 rib belt to make it work. Maybe you could convert eaton pulley to a v-belt, and use aircon position on crank/aircon tensioner? Looks like theres plenty of space for that blower. Do they offer an electric clutch for one at all?

killbill oddy
08-18-2012, 07:52 AM
I love how your car is coming along. Its great to see someone putting together another supercharged MKII. I havent seen that version of the eaton yet. The ones readily available to us at wreckers here in the states are from the 3.8 ford t-bird application. They have intakes in the back, and mount direct to the intake. The amount of custom work needed to make one work on a straight six made me go SC-14. SC-14s are used here in the states primarily as upgrades for the SC-12 equipped MR-2s, although one guy put together an SC-14/turbo combo for his MR-2. Smaller SC-14 pulleys are mainly available custom built without the electric clutch. Theres an outfit in Australia that offers a 25% smaller electric clutch one, and a local guy can fab me up an equivalent , but the whole objective was to keep it low-boost, and simple. No inter-cooler, No standalone, short intake path to maximize blower output, etc. The electric clutch was highly desirable to me, as my car is daily driven, and the SC-14 tends to burn up quickly under constant use. In the oe application, its switched on only under low vacuum/high throttle situations. Ive got the pulley wired to 2 switches, one is overall power(enable), and then the power switch is a hooded toggle I can flip on and off quickly. I didnt want to be able to accidentally trigger it on, or off. Ive converted my driven accessories to 7m components. For the alternator, I used a 7m alt relocation kit that puts it where the A/C was. I had a local alternator shop convert the pulley to a v-drive, and use the a/c position on the 5m crank pulley to drive it, along with the 5m A/C tensioner. Im running a 7m power steering pump where the 5m alternator use to sit, using the 7m p/s lower bracket to mount it, and the 5m alt bracket/tensioner to tension it. The blower belt is routed around blower, old alt position on crank pulley, and the 7m p/s pulley. The 7m p/s pulley acts as blower belt tensioner. 7m pulley is only 4 rib, sc-14 pulley is 5 rib, and crank pulley is 7 rib, so I had to use a 4 rib belt to make it work. Maybe you could convert eaton pulley to a v-belt, and use aircon position on crank/aircon tensioner? Looks like theres plenty of space for that blower. Do they offer an electric clutch for one at all?

Likewise, i was so glad to see someone thinking along the same lines and had already Done it! :zzzzz:
Your conversion looks so neat and tidy without an intercooler, and mines also my daily Driver so know what you mean about the Switchable pulley being a good compromise.
I cant find anyone who does a pulley for an eaton m90 though (Merc use M62 For their clutch system)
And i'm kinda thinking along a different line now by having a Recirculation valve with a Adjustable tension spring being the main Wastegate from the outlet pipe on the side ,and by that i can tune the spring to open and blow off at the desired boost level, but stay shut when intake vacuum is more than the pressure from the charger (ie off boost / idle) the Air would then feed back into the intake before the MAF so not to confuse the ECU .t'll take some trial and error, but as my charger Never came with a wastegate built into the body like the later Generations did, and No intake pipe, i think it'll be easier to just start fresh with the pipe work to get it running as close to the Charger body as possible.

Also means with no Magnetic Clutch to Worry about, i don't have to change the Existing Pulley wheels
and can spend less money on getting it done.

Also, i want to keep air intake temps low after the chargers done it's work, as apparently the heat up the air more than a turbo does at a certain level, just less prone to Det, so will run a big old Intercooler at the front
which will increase pipe work, but mean i can run higher boost more efficiently and hopefully some good low to mid range Torque, which is what i'm after ideally.

CarFreek
08-18-2012, 10:09 PM
And i'm kinda thinking along a different line now by having a Recirculation valve with a Adjustable tension spring being the main Wastegate from the outlet pipe on the side ,and by that i can tune the spring to open and blow off at the desired boost level, but stay shut when intake vacuum is more than the pressure from the charger (ie off boost / idle) the Air would then feed back into the intake before the MAF so not to confuse the ECU .t'll take some trial and error, but as my charger Never came with a wastegate built into the body like the later Generations did, and No intake pipe, i think it'll be easier to just start fresh with the pipe work to get it running as close to the Charger body as possible.

What you are describing is called a bypass valve. Any positive displacement blower with the throttle plate downstream of the blower needs one. In the picture of my setup, its the piece with the blue top that kinda looks like a blow-off. They are open until or right before they see boost, then close under boost, then open at desired boost limit. This allows a blower thats on all the time to have its rotors spinning free, not making boost, which cuts heat production, decreases wear, and allows you to have a throttle plate downstream. Vortech sells em, for your setup you would need their "Mondo" valve. Theres writeups on the web of guys who have converted blow-offs to work as bypass valves. Mine closes at 3 pounds of vacumn, and opens at 6 pounds of boost. Yes, you definitely need to recirculate the air if you retain stock AFM, but it would be AFTER the AFM. Bring it back before the AFM could open the AFM flap off throttle, giving you extra fuel when you dont want it.

killbill oddy
08-23-2012, 03:20 PM
Heres a little video i made when i went to The Retro Rides Gathering Car Show.

https://vimeo.com/47973924#

killbill oddy
08-23-2012, 03:22 PM
and Another one Showing the Diversity of the Cars Attending, One of my My top 3 Car Shows

https://vimeo.com/47924080

killbill oddy
09-08-2012, 03:18 PM
What you are describing is called a bypass valve. Any positive displacement blower with the throttle plate downstream of the blower needs one. In the picture of my setup, its the piece with the blue top that kinda looks like a blow-off. They are open until or right before they see boost, then close under boost, then open at desired boost limit. This allows a blower thats on all the time to have its rotors spinning free, not making boost, which cuts heat production, decreases wear, and allows you to have a throttle plate downstream. Vortech sells em, for your setup you would need their "Mondo" valve. Theres writeups on the web of guys who have converted blow-offs to work as bypass valves. Mine closes at 3 pounds of vacumn, and opens at 6 pounds of boost. Yes, you definitely need to recirculate the air if you retain stock AFM, but it would be AFTER the AFM. Bring it back before the AFM could open the AFM flap off throttle, giving you extra fuel when you dont want it.

think i'll go for a Forge Recirc valve as they come with different tension springs, then re route it back into intake past MAF sensor. Seen a Sard fuel Pressure regulator on ebay for 75 new. looks genuine, and in oxford, so may give it a punt..


In car Update news..

I've Managed to progress to the prototype stage now with the Big Brake Kit using Mazda FD3S RX7 Calipers & Peugeot 306 GTI-6
Discs & I'm quite Happy with the End Result. You have to remove about 2mm of metal on the inside face of the Rx7 Calipers to fit around the Ma61 Brake Caliper Brackets, but, honestly, isnt hardly anything, and there's loads of Metal there.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8038/7956150804_4534f8584c_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956150804/)
Photo0320 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956150804/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8322/7956149968_84f85fa953_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956149968/)
Photo0321 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956149968/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8037/7956350080_37f243c9d3_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956350080/)
Photo0339 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956350080/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8440/7956149392_e343a96b38_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956149392/)
Photo0323 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956149392/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8443/7956148494_c136c61168_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956148494/)
Photo0324 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956148494/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

Only Mocked up as i need to get the right Bolts! ::)


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8174/7956147204_bef7802272_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956147204/)
Photo0326 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956147204/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8176/7956146202_41dae73141_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956146202/)
Photo0327 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956146202/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr


Cnc machined Prototype Brackets. Finished items will be Zinc Plated.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8461/7956144782_0d7086d67e_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956144782/)
Photo0329 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956144782/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8037/7956144256_d5a2001a23_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956144256/)
Photo0330 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956144256/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8306/7956151412_9330a00948_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956151412/)
Photo0331 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956151412/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr


When you Compare it to the Standard front Brakes with the Same 15" wheel...

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8438/7956147854_401689d92c_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956147854/)
Photo0325 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7956147854/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

Oh, and Majorly Whoring it up on Speedhunters..
http://cdn.speedhunters.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/SH-RRG12B-01.jpg

Me and MY Mate Chay have had an unintentional Speedhunters "Whore Off" But He's won that Now
He;s the Guy with the N2 kitted AE86 that won their "Feature this" Contest at Trax- Silverstone.

http://cdn.speedhunters.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/JMSH-Trax12C-10.jpg
http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/09/feature-this-at-trax-the-winning-entry/

SupraFiend
09-10-2012, 05:33 PM
Very cool. You planing on selling the cnced brackets? Whats the specs on those rotors? I assume you still need to drill holes into them to make them mount to our hubs? Is that how they're designed to mount? I don't see any holes on those rotors anywhere.

So, why FD calipers instead of z32 calipers? I too love the idea of being able to squeeze 15s over a big brake kit too, but you can still do that with z32 calipers and they bolt on and are probably alot easier to get for most people.

TRD 83 SUPRA XX
09-10-2012, 07:03 PM
and Another one Showing the Diversity of the Cars Attending, One of my My top 3 Car Shows

https://vimeo.com/47924080

Haha I see your MK2 at 1:16!!! NiCE!!!

killbill oddy
09-10-2012, 10:10 PM
Very cool. You planing on selling the cnced brackets? Whats the specs on those rotors? I assume you still need to drill holes into them to make them mount to our hubs? Is that how they're designed to mount? I don't see any holes on those rotors anywhere.

So, why FD calipers instead of z32 calipers? I too love the idea of being able to squeeze 15s over a big brake kit too, but you can still do that with z32 calipers and they bolt on and are probably alot easier to get for most people.

Simplicity and Cost mainly. Ok, i had to Drill out the M10 x 100 pcd on the Discs, and Turn out the Centre an extra 10mm to 76mm, but they fit inboard like how the existing discs fit. I did think about using the 300zx Discs and Calipers, but I didnt want to fit the Discs over the Front face of the hubs as my wheels fit lovely now :D
(Have a look on Page 7 for Disc comparison pics)

The 300zx is a really nice upgrade though, just the thought of Redrilling the discs to 4 stud, then pressing in a centre spacer and then machining the hub to fit the disc over plus Buying New Longer Studs Put me off.
I wanted to just do a nice, cheap kit that someone could buy a set of modified discs, and brackets off me
go home, and just fit them on their driveway.
Discs on the 300zx are thicker, So increases the Unsprung weight more & was about 3 times the Price of the Mazda Calipers 2nd hand.
Just to give you an example, so far the Calipers, New Discs and New pads has cost me $256 so far.

As for the Specs of the Rotors, they are 27mm tall- 283mm diameter and 22mm thick, so Not that heavy over standard when combined with the RX7 calipers.

Tbh, i'm still quite interested in trying the z32 Route in the future, so if this doesnt work as well as i hoped i may give that a go. But you gotta try these things eh! There are so many different ways to do it, this was just one of the ways that seemed viable without costing too much money.


Went to my local Toyota Main dealer for some Rear, inner eccentric toe bolts for my camber Mod.
Had to take A photo! :zzzzz:uk spec GT86
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8459/7971902030_f98dec1026_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7971902030/)
Photo0340 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/7971902030/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

SupraFiend
09-12-2012, 12:55 AM
There is more then one way to do the z32 front calipers btw. I have the exact same concerns as you, so I was planning on going with the PT Cruiser rotor method, or using some aftermarket rotors designed to work with inner hats. With the PT cruiser method, you just redrill the mounting holes on the rotor and it all bolts on. I think maybe that was the one were you had to use a spacer on the caliper to pull it back a bit, but it nets you the end result you're after. On these shores, z32 brake parts are much easier to get and more common.

vdkk
10-10-2012, 06:30 AM
Nasty setup defineltly going to do that front coil over setup.. What are you going to do for the rear? How is it currently lowered?

vdkk
10-12-2012, 02:29 AM
Have any more of those coil over press in sleeves made up?

killbill oddy
10-18-2012, 12:50 PM
Have any more of those coil over press in sleeves made up?
Yes i do, either P.M. Me on here or go Direct :naughty:
http://driftoy.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=products

killbill oddy
11-26-2012, 02:52 PM
Been a while, but have been working on some Weld on Rear camber correction Brackets for the Celica Supra to try and eradicate some of the Dirty excess Rear camber angle which piles on after you lower the car.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0366.jpg?t=1353175713

New M12 bolts and camber washers will be Remade so will fit all Aftermarket poly bushes rather than having to drill out the inner sleeves to accept the Oe Toyota Eccentric Bolts Used already for the Toe adjustment on the inner arms.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0364.jpg


This subframe will be Blasted back to allow stitch welding and repair, then Powder coated in Something nice.
I am also thinking of making some Poly bushes on the lathe, so it's super easy to refit. Easy job, and a bar of Polyurethane isn't too much money if i sell a few!




http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0365.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0367.jpg


And also manages to Get a free Aluminum Diff Oil cooler and pump From a Nissan 200SX.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0368.jpg?t=1353864739

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0369.jpg?t=1353864582

It's much needed as these diff's get really hot and have quite a low oil level in them,so no good for prolonged drifting. I'll link up the Pump to the old Aircon Switch, so i can run it on whilst i'm giving it angry death on the track. ( been dying to make use of that Button!)


Forgot to take pictures of the solid Pinion Crush sleeve from Weir Performance, so here are a couple to show you with the shims for matching to original spec.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0370.jpg?t=1353860949

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m260/spoon_4130/Photo0371.jpg?t=1353864818

killbill oddy
11-27-2013, 04:59 PM
Bloody hell :o It's been a while since my last update eh ::)

Ok,I must admit, Riding my BMX at our New local Skatepark quite a lot lately, In between working on New products so Drifting and my own Car stuff has taken a back seat for a while as i cling on To my Youth!

So some parts i've been Whoring till i can fit them.

1"MK3 Supra Master Cylinder For the Big Brake upgrade. I'm already running a MK3 Brake Booster, so will fit on with No modification other than Bending the Brake lines a bit.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8405/8685892615_9257ebff49_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8685892615/)
SAM_0086 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8685892615/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

Eaton M90 Needle Bearings and Snout Coupling to refresh the charger.
Ordered from the States for about 40

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8123/8685915185_38a3555e43_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8685915185/)
SAM_0082 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8685915185/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr


Adjustable Recirculating Blow off Valve For the Supercharger Conversion.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8540/8687039560_1c9d7951b9_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8687039560/)
SAM_0081 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8687039560/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr


Dastek Unichip Piggyback ECU. It's an early type, but so is my car.
What can i say, It was Cheap, They are proficient for the job and there are enough people around my area that can Map them, so a no brainer really!

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8126/8687045922_61435274b1_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8687045922/)
SAM_0080 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8687045922/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr


I Got Mark the fabricator to Chop off and weld up the Old wastegate Hole
in the Boost pipe, so i could spin the pipe round 180 degrees. He did an awesome job too 8-)

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8261/8685909151_b85606640a_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8685909151/)
SAM_0083 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8685909151/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8540/8685903601_1434a6e32e_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8685903601/)
SAM_0084 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8685903601/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

So it now fits like this >

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8542/8685898737_2f4293f2c9_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8685898737/)
SAM_0085 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8685898737/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

The Recirculating Valve will need to link this outlet pipe to the inlet pipe at the back of the supercharger, so i gotta drill it and make a new hole for the valve.


Billy Thorpe of Sweet Oblivion Clothing Also very kindly Made up a New
Logo and Stickers for Driftoy, So They now adorn the car.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8395/8687051956_57f8e3ee81_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8687051956/)
SAM_0089 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8687051956/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

Please buy one, they'll be a collectors item one day! ;D


Been working on these too. Not for my car though. I already have T3 ones.
Also made ae86 /kp60/ ta40 to ma61 offset brackets so a few friends of mine could run Supra struts on their cars (thicker spindle and Better brakes)

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7381/8726261483_9c0620a219_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8726261483/)
SAM_0133 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8726261483/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7305/8727366588_6c70af5c70_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8727366588/)
SAM_0131 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8727366588/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7456/8727387170_5117e3d2b9_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8727387170/)
SAM_0134 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8727387170/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7336/8727350896_8e5bfaac86_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8727350896/)
SAM_0125 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8727350896/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

Prototype 30mm offset RCA's to increase Track Width and Camber

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7353/8727412142_5e493506d6_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8727412142/)
SAM_0136 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8727412142/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7295/8727336280_71b97becf8_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8727336280/)
SAM_0120 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8727336280/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7312/8727341198_e9b6b1d9dc_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8727341198/)
SAM_0123 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8727341198/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7342/8726210425_2f44fa7ddf_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8726210425/)
SAM_0121 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8726210425/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7443/8727322970_0ff78ef1e4_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8727322970/)
SAM_0122 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/8727322970/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr



Oh, and went to Lydden Hill For round 4 of the BDC. Sweeps Let Some Members of the Corolla Brotherhood (And Me) On Track Thanks Jord and Nick Shaw for the Photo's :thumbs:

http://www.drifted.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/DSC_4897.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7382/9510574359_9a456002d3_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/turbo-nick/9510574359/) BDC Round 4 @ Lydden Hill (http://www.flickr.com/photos/turbo-nick/9510574359/) by Nick Shaw (http://www.flickr.com/people/turbo-nick/), on Flickr

Being my First time Driving Around the Track, I'd have preferred to have had the whole day to just get used to the lines, and set up my car, but it was free track time, so can't really complain eh!

It was a Bit of an eye Opener for me as i Literally Had about 10 Minutes after i Arrived at Lydd to Get all my Crap Out of the car, Replace a tyre that let go One the 160 mile drive to the Track, Set up Camera, Have a piss, and Go try and not Look like a complete Cnut in font of many hundred people that had attended whilst in the Mean time try very hard Not to Crash My ONLY Car if front of Said Many Hundred People

I pussied out of Devils Elbow, and when seeing everyone else i was on track with had a Cage fitted, and actually Practiced Regularly, (First time in maybe a year..) I erred on the Side of Caution. :cry: Love to go Back and be able to relax, as it's more technical than it looks. Liked it




https://vimeo.com/72196952

Now with Added Ramones ^

I'm going to Take it off the road this winter, and Get something else to Potter around in while i give the Supra Some Much Needed tlc and Improvements.
Had this on the Road for over 4 years Now, Done 10,000 miles a year in it, Drift Days, Daily Abuse and it's been the Most Reliable Car I've Ever Had! Next Step is Weld Sunroof. Refresh everything, Supercharge the 5MGE and Maybe Cage? Also, keep looking at Lexus LS400 rear subframes and thinking "hmmm, i reckon that'll fit" so going to have a proper measure of my friends one too.

Hankering over a BMW E24 635 csi Still, so that may be the Next Daily Driver

'82supra
11-27-2013, 05:31 PM
Awesome update...some crazy fab skills, can't wait to see how the supracharger works out. :thumbsup:

Celicasteve68
11-27-2013, 09:06 PM
I've just read this from start to finish. Great to see the true potential of this road car and what can be done. Interesting to read that it's been totally realiable after all the hard driving you do. Would it be true to say the engine is more robust than a MA70 ?

SupraFiend
11-28-2013, 01:45 AM
Then a 7m you mean, easily.

I remember at one of the old SupraFest events we used to do here, a group of Supra owners, mostly mk3s with 7ms with a handful of mk2s, were cruising through a mountain pass to get to the event in Kelowna, about a 4 hour drive. One of the mk2s was a total beater, and it had a crappy rad so it started running hot. Everyone pulled over to see if it could be dealt with, but with no simple solution and the owner not terribly concerned about the car, they all just continued on their way with the poor 5m running in the red on every steep incline. The mk3 owners were astounded that the ol 5m made it all the way there and back without blowing up, cracking a head or popping the head gasket lol

killbill oddy
11-28-2013, 04:25 PM
Thanks guys, I'm glad you liked, and i have a bit more to add on updates, but it's more a parts whoring one really. I'd deffo agree with suprafiend about the strength of the 5MGE though. It's something i know i don't need to worry about. They are brilliant engines and the 12 valve dohc head is a wonderful thing. All in all, i love my 5mge. Sounds nice, revs well take a sound thrashing day in day out. I need to do the valve stem seals though as it occasionally likes to spew out a big cloud of burnt oil every so often on a long motorway journey. Any one have a good link or tip for them?

Onto my silver parts whoring update..
So, after thinking a bit more about what Stav on driftworks forum had said about recirculating valves, and realizing he was right and i was being a fecking eejit about how they work. I did a bit more research into them and the types. So, back to the drawing board i went on ebay and got a proper one off another jag as i could make it fit better

The bypass valve is 35mm bore from the intake into two 25mm leading back into the compressed side of the charger. Should provide lots of flow past the charger when engines off throttle, and hopefully not be too thirsty either.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7320/11105297654_52d681ef0c_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11105297654/)
SAM_0706 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11105297654/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr


http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5522/11105332226_84818ca977_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11105332226/)
SAM_0704 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11105332226/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

The 2 x 25mm bore bypass valves will have to be plumbed back in to the compressor outlet pipe, so going to get on the lathe and turn up some nice 6082 ali fittings that mark can weld back on. to the top of this pipe.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5487/11104864763_9c03189faa_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11104864763/)
SAM_0698 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11104864763/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

Next job is to make a template for the intake side of the charger (at the back) so we can fabricate a new one from Aluminum. The flat backed plate of the recirculating valve will then mate onto this so it needs to be D shaped on one side. I will have to move the air flow meter over to where the battery currently is, then mount that inside the car. Thinking of using a mini cooper s charger to intercooler part for this as they have a really nice flat profile. will see how much room i've got to play with when i fit the charger though. Then it will be a case of making a dummy pipe for a template, and getting it right.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5492/11104998083_eda6d9a755_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11104998083/)
SAM_0693 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11104998083/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr
You can see the twin outlets with the butterfly open in this pic ^


Eaton M90 has been stripped down for it's new bearings. I love how simple and old school these things look with their guts on display.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7441/11105364216_d6abe849e3_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11105364216/)
SAM_0701 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11105364216/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr


It's got some wear and small chipping of the teflon coating on it, so not too sure how much that will effect things.
do you think it's worth worrying about? there was a bit of lateral play in the bearings, so i'm guessing it's not too badly worn. :confused:

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5543/11105398196_331c887e4e_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11105398196/)
SAM_0703 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11105398196/) by

shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr


Inside of the casing looks pretty good. some light scoring, but no real gouges.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7339/11105381325_c1696eaef6_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11105381325/)
SAM_0702 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11105381325/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

It's quite an ordeal to replace things on eatons in the uk, No distributor or service dept from what i can find, so have to look at the usa for parts & guidance on a lot of things. Should be back together in the next week or so.
Oh yeah,supercharger oil fucking stinks like boiling dog shit, so be careful where you store things:o


Bought an intercooler for 65 off ebay. It's 600 x 300 x 76mm and seems ok for what i want to do.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7338/11104583995_5435a6e864_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11104583995/)
SAM_0694 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11104583995/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5485/11104670086_b9da282fc3_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11104670086/)
SAM_0695 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11104670086/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7403/11105670734_97fd72abee_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11105670734/)
SAM_0709 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11105670734/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2844/11104829903_79fd062351_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11104829903/)
SAM_0700 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11104829903/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3686/11104897093_44e7764a34_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11104897093/)
SAM_0697 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11104897093/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5504/11104602336_315d698770_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11104602336/)
SAM_0699 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11104602336/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

Should all flow quite well with no real restrictions.

Another work in winter progress is the long neglected diff. I cleaned up the new spare
that will have the weir kit and oil cooler set up on

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3677/11105371293_05d2bb1751_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11105371293/)
SAM_0707 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11105371293/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr

Got the M18 banjo's and pipework for that now, and found the missing parts to my my 3 leg puller after about 6 years so can commence on the rebuild now.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2871/11105466856_a9bec6e3fa_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11105466856/)
SAM_0708 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shiredrifter/11105466856/) by shiredrifter (http://www.flickr.com/people/shiredrifter/), on Flickr
Banjo's fitted to my old Santa pod murdered diff. ^

All in all, lots of fun to be had over winter. :smash:

SupraFiend
11-29-2013, 06:33 PM
Well reliability wise I'd take a 5m over a 7m anyday, but technically strength wise the 7mgte bottom end will with stand more power due to the beefier rods. At least until it spins a rod bearing lol.