View Full Version : 87 harness -->85 MKII no check engine light.
MWebber
05-23-2004, 10:56 PM
I'm having some issues with the wiring between the 7M harness and the 5M harness. I've made all the connections I'm suposed to (that I know of) and still no check engine light.
Jeff? william? any ideas? anything that might trip a newbie up?
let me know what you guys need to make an educated guess on this...
Rob
williamb82
05-24-2004, 12:57 PM
dont know, my engine light and oil pressure gauge dont work right and no matter how many times i double check i cant find anything wrong.
WadeT
05-24-2004, 09:25 PM
dont know, my engine light and oil pressure gauge dont work right and no matter how many times i double check i cant find anything wrong.
Have you tried hooking up the oil pressure sending unit on the block on the original 5m plug that comes from the fender harness? The 7mgte oil sending unit (on 7mgte engine harness) isn't used on MKIIs, at least on mine.
williamb82
05-24-2004, 09:34 PM
i didnt try that yet. hard to get to the oil sending unit. might try that friday. but either way the gauge is either all the way off or all the way on and its taped off so something still isnt right.
MWebber
07-25-2004, 09:22 AM
i didnt try that yet. hard to get to the oil sending unit. might try that friday. but either way the gauge is either all the way off or all the way on and its taped off so something still isnt right.
I found my check engine light problem! when we wired the car for the 7M we wired the main relay wrong (but did power up the +b and +b1), so the ECU isn't getting 10-14 volts to the IG S/W pin on the ECU. The ECU was confused and let the car run but most of the sensors weren't working correctly.
the short of it was, *this* is the reason it was throwing up on the dyno in virginia beach. I'm rewiring it today so the ignition switch powers the IG S/W pin and thus the M-REL pin/wire trigger the main relay.
it still has the loopy idle so far, still working on that.
Mike
MWebber
07-25-2004, 11:27 AM
IT LIVES!!!!!!!
so far as I can tell, fixing the above has fixed everything.... check engine light problem, loopy idle, odd driving, either trying to accel or decel (no in-between) and she idles smoooooooth at 650rpms!!
somebody :twak: me cause I was being a :dumbass: Now, it time to go out and get :gaspump: and then :3gears: then a :dj_smile:
williamb82
07-25-2004, 02:00 PM
sounds like my car. idles like ish and no oil pressure or check engine light. can you send pics/details how yours was wired and what you did to fix it exactly. then i can double check mine.
william
MWebber
07-25-2004, 02:08 PM
sounds like my car. idles like ish and no oil pressure or check engine light. can you send pics/details how yours was wired and what you did to fix it exactly. then i can double check mine.
william
yup, no problem (it's all still apart). I wasn't having any trouble out of the oil pressure though, I don't think the two problems are connected, but I'll include the oil pressure wiring in the pics too. I used the 7M harness and connected the wire behind the ECU going to the dash gauges. I'll get the pics and all that written up in a few minutes...
Mike
MWebber
07-25-2004, 03:21 PM
ok here goes. If I'm not clear on anything just ask away. sorry the pics are so big, but I wanted to make sure the detail was there.
a quick note before I start. the IG S/W and M-REL are part of the same circuit and thus are the same color. Make POSITIVELY sure you know which wire you are working with. the IG S/W is a smaller guage (senses the IGN switch coming on) and the M-REL(thicker guage) powers the coil on the main relay which in turn powers +B and +B1. if you get these backwards, the car won't turn off with the key. since the +B1 and +B are now powered up and back feeds through M-REL, out IG S/W and continues to power the main relay via +B and +B1....(yeah, just ask me how I know that!)
In the first pic is the source for the IG S/W pin on the ECU. Find the 5M connector that was left when you pulled out the old harness. locate the small gauge black w/ red tracer. test to make sure 0v with ign off and 10-14v with ign on. connect this wire to the 7M harness wire smaller guage wire black w/ orange tracer. you will know you are at the right plug when you see the THICK black/orange wire on the same plug. This powers the IG S/W pin on the ECU, in turn powering the M-REL wire to turn on the main relay.
http://www.masupras.com/members/robw/temp/wiring1.jpg
location of IG S/W and M-REL
http://www.masupras.com/members/robw/temp/wiring2.jpg
M-REL is ran through the engine harness and comes out behind the ALT. The wire does not change color it is still Black w/ orange tracer. be carefull, there is a black with red tracer there as well. cut the black w/ red tracer and connect the B-O to the main relay side black w/ red tracer. This is M-REL powering the coil.
On my wiring, I have a Thick gauge connected to the Thick black w/ red and ran back to the ECU via a new wire to the THICK black w/ orange wire at the ECU (see first pic). Note: the wire starts at the main relay as a blue wire and changes to Yellow by the time it gets to the ECU.
http://www.masupras.com/members/robw/temp/m-rel.jpg
Hope this helps, fire any questions at me if you need to. I'll be out boosting around and embarasing riceboys for a few hours. :shock: :mrgreen:
MWebber
07-25-2004, 03:24 PM
oil pressure: on the 5M harness as above, find a yellow w/ black tracer and connect to the incoming 7M oil pressure sending unit wire.
williamb82
07-25-2004, 10:14 PM
well, mine is running and has been for a couple years. the wire your talking about is hooked up right cause the car turns off with the key. im thinking i need to trace the wire from the oil sending unit to the dash. and the screwy idle is prolly from the i/c pipe leaking. it didnt always idle screwy, but the check engine light not working is a pita.
3000cc MK2
07-25-2004, 11:16 PM
Rob,
now your car running mighty fine now... let's see what it can do in the dyno... probably it should do better than the xx.xx hp you posted last time
MWebber
07-26-2004, 06:25 AM
William, sorry man, too bad that didn't help. good luck in finding the problem.
Jay, I've got an upgraded ct-26 on it now too. next on my list is to hard pipe the IC pipes... I blew a pipe off yesterday at ~14 psi, so it's time to get that done... besides, 12.49 hp really sucks. lol
yeah... I know I shouldn't have, but I just had to burn a few ricers yesterday too. :twisted:
Mike
SupraWes
07-26-2004, 06:10 PM
Sweet!! I want a ride next year! I'm keeping my eye out at the local junkyards here, the next good looking, complete 7MGTE I find wil probably be coming home with me.
MWebber
07-26-2004, 07:17 PM
lol, the first time you take it out for a full power run, bring clean shorts with ya.
My first impression after having the car running right for 24 hours: SWEET!!!
the last 24 hours have almost made up for all the hassles and headaches (and ALL the little things that pop up) the swap has given me over the last 6 months.
I'm amazed at how dosile the 7M seems just putting around town. it's incredibly smooth and quiet yet, once over about 1/2 throttle it turns into a monster. I'm hoping to level out somewhere around 250-275 horsepower once I have everything done that I want.
Thanks to everyone that helped over the past months.
Mike
MWebber
07-26-2004, 07:43 PM
here's some pics... and yeah, I fixed the cooling issue too. it's a Griffin 2-3/8" thick core and 3" tanks, crossflow, 2 row with custom mounts that use the factory mount points and 22-24 lb cap. for now a single 14" fan and all the boosting I want and the temp doesn't go over 185. (90 degree day and boosting up hills on the interstate over...err.. the posted speed limit...)
LJM bar is 1 day old in the pic They should call that thing the 7M of strut bars....
the canister is gone, and the EGR is next. I've built a manifold to tidy up the vac lines that will be left. I'll post that up once I get done with it. notice anything else?
http://www.masupras.com/members/robw/temp/100_0496.jpg
http://www.masupras.com/members/robw/temp/100_0497.jpg
williamb82
07-26-2004, 07:45 PM
whats the part # and dimensions of that radiator?
william
williamb82
07-26-2004, 07:48 PM
a manual boost controller and xx badge.
MWebber
07-26-2004, 07:55 PM
whats the part # and dimensions of that radiator?
william
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=GRI-1-25241-X&N=120%204294924500%204294923432%20300673
MWebber
07-26-2004, 07:56 PM
a manual boost controller and xx badge.
Wes should notice one too. :)
Marblehead
07-27-2004, 02:42 PM
Mike,
Now that you know all the electrical tips, tricks and answers to the hassles I might beg you to come down to Charlotte when I find that elusive "perfect" donor. :)
If your sister hits you, don't hit her back. They always catch the second person.
Scott
Marblehead
07-27-2004, 02:46 PM
here's some pics...notice anything else?........
http://www.masupras.com/members/robw/temp/100_0496.jpg
Yeah, your battery tie-down is missing. :D
MWebber
07-27-2004, 07:03 PM
Mike,
Now that you know all the electrical tips, tricks and answers to the hassles I might beg you to come down to Charlotte when I find that elusive "perfect" donor. :)
If your sister hits you, don't hit her back. They always catch the second person.
Scott
anytime. I've learned a little over the last 2 months on diagnosing problems with the 7M.
Mike (graciously accepting the understatement award for 2004)
SupraWes
07-27-2004, 09:51 PM
LOL it took me a minute, but I finally noticed it. My stupid little ghetto stickers.
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