Removing Cam Tower any pointers advice?

[Snake2715]

Ok,

I wont go into history of how long this has taken me but again I am at a point were I must continue on with this project due to a craving to drive at least one of my Supras again.


A few months back I was changing out the rear cam seals when i broke two bolts off inside the cam towers. These bolts are on the backside of the tower and they are used to hold the cover over the seal.

I tried to remove on of the bolts with a bolt extractor (reverse drill bit of sorts). That extractor snapped off in the hole I drilled.

I proceeded to drill and tap the other bolt but have went through 4-5 Drill bits with everthing short of a carbide bit to get that extractor out.

I have since decided its much cheaper to remove that cam tower and replace it.

When I remove it besides numbering all the lifters etc that come out is there anything else I need to do to assure a proper fit and performance of that side?

I have run into some nice roadblocks in my motor transplant and I want to ask before I tear into this over the next couple days.

Any pointers or advice would be nice? I am most worried about fitment and if I should actually transfer over the cam from the motor to the new tower or leave the cam in the replacement tower....

[Phoenix]

I think you shoud use the cam that comes with the new cam housing. It's bound to be a better fit.

You shouldn't have to remove lifters, rockers etc. Unless you want to clean them up while you're at it. Which cam tower is it? If it's the intake, don't even think of "saving time" by leaving the tb in place. MUCH, much easier if you remove the tb

[Snake2715]

No its teh exhaust....

Dont worry about the TB its been taken off... Its a long story but an auto 1985 TB is definately not compatible with an 1984 manul TB....

One of the many headaches I ran into after I thought I had it all figured out with this motor swaps.

So you think i should leave the cam and all the lifters etc in it? Ok then it would be just a new gasket where the tower meets the block.

[82Spearco]

Have you forgotten everything we learned :D

The cam tower bolts into the head, no need to mess with the block, or pull out the lifters. Should be easy and straightforward once you remove the upper timing cover.

[Phoenix]

No its teh exhaust....

Dont worry about the TB its been taken off... Its a long story but an auto 1985 TB is definately not compatible with an 1984 manul TB....

One of the many headaches I ran into after I thought I had it all figured out with this motor swaps.

So you think i should leave the cam and all the lifters etc in it? Ok then it would be just a new gasket where the tower meets the block.

Leave 'em all where they are. But you may want to grease the rockers so they don't go awol. :D You should make sure you use the metal cam housing gasket AND heavy duty gasket sealant. The copper stuff or the aircraft gasket sealant both work fine. 8) You should probably change the front seal while you're at it. Don't forget to use the right torqueing sequence.

I didn't know tb's weren't interchangable. Does that mean I need a new tb if I switch from auto to manual? What's the difference.

[Snake2715]

Yeah those bolts that broke when you were over are really making me not want to go outside and work on the car.

I know I am maybe 8 hours from the running version of that car if I actually get motivated to go mess with it. I am making a mess of drill bits trying to get that broken extractor out.

The only scary part is I dont know how well the parts cars lifters, cam was treated... My car I know this car I dont... I guess I will do the swap and finish the TB swap out over the next couple days starting tonight.

[Phoenix]

I know I am maybe 8 hours from the running version of that car if I actually get motivated to go mess with it. I am making a mess of drill bits trying to get that broken extractor out.


I've learned NEVER to make predictions about when the car will run again. It's the ultimate jinx. 8)

[StanS]

I didn't know tb's weren't interchangable. Does that mean I need a new tb if I switch from auto to manual? What's the difference.

It's the tps. 84 tps goes with 84 ecu and 85 tps goes with 85 ecu. different years aren't interchangeable.

[Phoenix]

I didn't know tb's weren't interchangable. Does that mean I need a new tb if I switch from auto to manual? What's the difference.

It's the tps. 84 tps goes with 84 ecu and 85 tps goes with 85 ecu. different years aren't interchangeable.

Thanks Stan, I'll have to change the tps anyway when I install the megasquirt.

[Keyfoo]

Don't forget to use anti-sieze on bolts that go into aluminum. spark plugs too.

[Snake2715]

I drilled out my current tower slightly off from the original bolt hole. I never ever "rig" anything.

BUT I think for the time being i am going to modify that back cover and use my new hole as the gasket will still be used fully. Its not high pressure or anything back there and the few cam towers I have are not perfect and I am not sure I would trust the bearings etc.

Thanks guys.

[Phoenix]

I drilled out my current tower slightly off from the original bolt hole. I never ever "rig" anything.

BUT I think for the time being i am going to modify that back cover and use my new hole as the gasket will still be used fully. Its not high pressure or anything back there and the few cam towers I have are not perfect and I am not sure I would trust the bearings etc.

Thanks guys.

Yeah! those covers don't have to be particularly tight. just enough to compress the rubber orings. There's really no reason for anyone to be breaking bolts trying to tighten those things. They leak cuz the rubber goes bad. Not because they arent tight enough.

Any chance you could borrow a camara and post a pic of your setup?

[Snake2715]

I broke a bolt trying to get the cover off. Trust me I wouldnt have tightened it that much putting it on.

The bolt extractor (that broke off in the broken bolt) does not want to come out just eat drill bit after drill bit.

So I drilled slightly to the left of it and re tapped that area. The o ring surface is still intact and I am sure I can compress it well enough.

If it decides to form a small leak I will take it off (it is on the exhaust side) once its in the car.

The short back story is that the motor ran perfectly in my 1984 manual and I bought a 1985 that I fell in love with 8 years ago... It had not been on the road in 10+ years I have "restored" the interior and have pretty much got it prepped for this install.

I have unknowns right now due to the car not actually being driven by me. It was properly mantained by the previous owner and he passed away. Shortly after the wife blew the motor and it sat, and sat, and sat.

My 1984 motor developed a slight tick and a lower than normal oil pressure right before putting it into storage 2 1/2 years ago. I brought it back to life this summer and it still had the tick and low oil pressure.

I then proceeded to isntall a new oil pump and the old pump seemed to have some issues once removed. I am worried that maybe my bearings are going bad in the motor and it wasnt the pump (I worry a lot about "what ifs")

So instead of playing around with an unknown cam on top of the problems I might encounter, I would prefer to leave the motor untouched until I can isolate the low oil pressure. Again I am 80% sure I got rid of it with the old pump but dont want to jinx myself.

Once the new motor is in and fluids, belts, brakes etc are switched over then I can worry about a small cam tower leak if it developes. But if indeed the bearings are bad then a complete rebuild will be in order once I make sure the body is worth it.

[Phoenix]

Cool! That exhaust side cam leak is a PITA though. The oil can drip down onto the manifold and burn, giving off smoke. So it's more important than you'd think :?

What oil are/were you running. The recommended oil is pretty thick. 20w40 or something , I was told at pepboys. Lighter oil will give lower pressure but it doesn't mean anything bad. 8)