Know anything about this part?

[Phoenix]

This is the part. I think it's a thermostat that adjusts the blower speed based on air temp. It looks like it's been fried for years. :shock: I think it's what has been messing up my ac.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v399/phoenixsupra/closeup.jpg



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v399/phoenixsupra/P1010017.jpg


This is it with the cap removed

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v399/phoenixsupra/nocappie.jpg




This is where it goes one the a/c evaporator.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v399/phoenixsupra/cirlce.jpg

Anyone know if these are still available from Toyota or anywhere else? How much does it goes for? Gotta a spare one?? I was wondering if I could just replace it with a potentiometer wired to the dash so I could just manually control the blower speed. Will my ac still work if it do this? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

[ZZT231]

That is the Blower Resistor, which controls the fan speeds...

Dave A. got me some resistors from the US as Australia don't have any avaliable any more. It cost me USD$5.00

Cheers.

*Edit - Contact Dave A. for the details if you can't find any from your dealer. Japan don't have any in their stock pile either.

If you are looking for the sensor for the climate control, it's the funny thing under the rear center console (where the storage bin) most prob behind the wing mirror electric adjustor

[lechner]

I believe your blower control should work fine on all speeds except auto w/o it. It only controls fan speed when set to auto. The low-med-high settings are over-rides.

[ZZT231]

I believe your blower control should work fine on all speeds except auto w/o it. It only controls fan speed when set to auto. The low-med-high settings are over-rides.Depending on where the resistors are broken it will dictate the speed... if you have it on auto and the resistor is broken for the slow speed, you would only have medium and high etc... if all of them are broken, all the fan speed would not work...

You can't solder them together as it is impossible (for me anyway) and was cheaper to replace.

[CJSREDPRA]

Bzzzzzzzzz.... NOPE!!!!

If everything is hosed on the resistor, your fan will still work. The resistor basically controls the fan speed for low & medium. If low & medium craps out, high will still work. Trust me, this has been dicussed before (can't remember if it has been discussed here, it has been dicussed on the Yahoo list within the last 2 - 3 years). Dave Anders went into detail on how the resistor function's (besides finding those inexpensive resistors for those lucky few).

Auto is another story altogether.... For those of you that are familiar w/ how the Auto setting works, basically it works much better when you have the heater on & the A/C off. Set the heater to a preset temperature, then put the switch on Auto. If it's still cold enough inside, then the Auto setting will start w/ the high speed setting. As the cabin starts to warm up, the air temperature sensor (the fan thingy that is underneath the console) will start to tell the blower to slow down in speed (from high to medium to low) until the cabin gets to the preset temperature. In some cases, it will turn the fan off. Now if your resistor is shot & low & medium are not working, then all the Auto setting will do, is initially go to high (if it's cold enough), then once it approaches the preset temperature, then the fan will just turn off. Because medium & low don't work, due to a burned out resistor.

Pricing: Aside from some of those current ones that Mr Anders was able to get for $6, I have no idea how much current pricing is from Toyota. The last time I had to replace the one in the MKII about ~8 - 10 years ago, this was a $54 item. A MKI resistor is another story (had to replace mine earlier this year). Only SEVEN left in the country, it's officially a CLASS E item, and they were only going for a little over $9 each @ Toyota. I ordered 2 of them (1 spare), so now there's only 5 left. I pretty sure Toyota still has quite a few of these for MKII's.

If you do order one from Toyota, make POSITIVELY sure that they are ordering the correct one!!!! Make sure it's for a MKII Supra w/ Auto A/C. If they try to sell you one for a RA Celica (because it's cheaper), tell them NO!!! The plug where you connect to the electricals is different & a RA Celica resistor is not compatible in a MA Supra (this is coming from someone who had to go & return a RA Celica resistor back to Toyota, because it would not fit).

[Supralove83]

I bought one of these this summer for my 83 and it was about 8 bucks from Toyota. Guess I lucked out because they didn't even offer another cheaper non fitting model.

[Angkistrodon]

I also just bought one from Toyota for about $9.00.
Guy pulled it from the bin in about 2 minutes....easy.

[Racefiend]

Yea, those bastards seem to blow out if your blower motor is tired out (drawing more current than normal). I would blow mine every 4-6 months or so. Then I rebuilt the blower motor and never blew another one.

[phreaky728]

what the hell did you do to that thing, its massacred to the extreme! :shock:

[Phoenix]

Yea, those bastards seem to blow out if your blower motor is tired out (drawing more current than normal). I would blow mine every 4-6 months or so. Then I rebuilt the blower motor and never blew another one.

That's something I've gotta check. Now would be a good time since it's out of the car.

Can you give me a brief outline on how to rebuild the blower motor? Seems like that would be the most sensible thing for me to do. Also how exactly do I test it?

BTW I ordered a new resistor today. It cost $9 and they should have it in about 5 days. Part # 88635-14080. Thanks everyone.

Phreaky728 - I didn't DO anything to it. That's how it was when I removed it. The white insulating material turned to dust when I touched it gently.

[Dave A.]

Be sure and check the new resistor when you go to pick it up at the parts counter. I bought quite a few that had crappy ceramic and bent wire. :? For those of you that may recall; I bought a whole bunch of these resistors when I found out the price was so cheap. I thought for sure that Toyota had screwed up the pricing.....but apparently not. I still have a couple of the "iffy" ones left that I might be able to straighten out if anyone outside of the U.S. needs one.

The high speed on the blower bypasses the resistor entirely. The high speed position on the blower switch bypasses the resistor and connects the ground side of the blower motor straight to chassis ground via the switch contacts. The high speed relay provides the direct ground path via contacts in the power servo when the blower switch is in the AUTO position.

[Racefiend]

By rebuilding it, I mean I got another blower from the junkyard, took it apart, and found some problems with it. Luckily, evertything wrong with it was good on my old one, so I made one good one out of the two. You would check your current draw with an ammeter. However, I have no idea what the stock draw is. Mine made the wires hot, so I knew it was drawing too much :)

Basically, you check it out like you would any DC motor. First check for excessive play in the shaft. IIRC (it's been a while), the shaft has a bushing on the fan end and sits in a recess on the other end. Make sure theres not excessive wear there, as it changes the armature's distance from/touching of the magnet.

Next, check your armature (the copper windings). They should be a nice copper orange color. There is an inslating coating on the windings to insulate them from the other windings. If they have been overheating they will turn brown, and may cause shorting.

Next check your commutator (what the brushes ride on). Look for dark spots/excess wear. Dark spots can be cleaned up with very fine steel wool/emery. Make sure there's no debris (especially metal!) between the sections on the commutator. Check continuity between the windings. Each end of the windings corresponds to one section on the commutator. IIRC, each end should be 180 degrees apart on the commutator...since I think the motor had 2 brushes. Should not short out to any other windings.

Check your brushes. Make sure they contour the commutator, no chips, cracks, dirt, etc.

Blow everything clean, especially if you used something to clean commutator/brushes.


HTH

Christian

[Phoenix]

Thanks guys. 8) I'm gonna check the blower motor tonight. This is what I'm planning. I'll use the car battery as a power sourse and hook the blower up to it through an ammeter. Is that ok or should I connect a resistor in series to limit current?

Then I'll inspect for the things that Racefiend mentioned. That's a great description Racefiend. The only part I dont understand is the part about checking the continuity of the windings. I'll probably be able to work it out once I have the thing apart. I think I'll change the brushes regardless (preventive measure).

Anyone know how I can find out what current the blower is supposed to draw?? at high, med, low??

Also, I'm going to install new foam on the airflaps throughout the system. Does that have to be heat resistant stuff or is any foam good? The foam that was on it had completely turned to dust and seems responsible for much of the bad smell from the vent air. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Edit: I just called Toyota about brushes for the blower motor. They don't sell 'em. All they sell is the whole blower assembly for $112. They also don't have any breakdown images of the blower - neither does the tsrm.
I'm guessing I've got to remove the brushes and take them to O'Reillys to find a match?? Anyone got a part # or source?

[Flyin' Hawaiian]

And one more bit of advice, do not buy a replacement motor from the parts store! I returned two and finally kept the third one, only using parts from it to repair my stock one. They do not fit properly, they rattle as if the bearings don't fit the unit and they put out much less air than stock.
If its really that bad, just have a motor winding shop rebuild it for you and install new brushes. It will probably be cheaper doing that than buying a new parts store motor.

[Phoenix]

Holy Crap!!! :shock: This Canadian mutha can blow!!!

I just noticed my blower motor says "made in Canada" on it. So does that mean it's a replacement?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v399/phoenixsupra/canada.jpg

I just gave it a quick clean according to Racefiends instructions. Before I had to hold it right up to my face to feel any moving air. Now if I hold it at arms length it blasts air at me. Wow. All I did was give the armature contacts a light sanding and spray the whole thing with quickdry electronics cleaner. That's THE most effective and easiest fix I've done yet on this car. Thanks Racefiend. :D

Here's a picture of the armature. This is before the cleaning. When I took the pic I meant this post to be a "so is this TOTALLY f%#ked or what?" post. The windings look a bit nast but if it keeps working this well I don't give a toss.
8)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v399/phoenixsupra/armagain.jpg

[Flyin' Hawaiian]

Yep, I'm pretty sure that's a replacement. IIRC, the stocker is made by none other than ND (NipponDenso). Glad to hear someone had luck with a replacement fan, cuz I sure as hell didn't!