Results 221 to 230 of 239
12-27-2016, 03:43 AM #221
The syringe CAME in one of my brake parts boxes with the part. 50 cc's,maybe.
It really is a fantastic way to effectively to bleed a master/clutch/slave cylinder!
You are going to be (maybe) surprised at the difference in handling. NOT like your Corvette,Jim.
Your NEW Supra has been lowered and with the stiffer spring RATES,will be almost a track car.
Scary? Probably not. Mine was nasty with over steer,but my car is *WAY* different than yours is, now. I still run the stock springs!!!!!!! It's cruiser,totally.(DD)
I added larger anti sway bars,but it's still at stock ride height and with skinny tires. WAY different cars,Jim.
I hated the polyurethane bushing with the Whiteline's,so I went back to rubber end links.
The road noise was insanely too much. It's a choice.
Tail wagging will be gone with your choice of spring rates. "Planted" is a good term to use.
Your cornering speed will depend on your balance of spring rates and sway bar settings. AND the throttle input,as usual.+ ride height.
Lemme see the video, now.
That video explains how difficult that the "step bore" master cylinder is SO difficult to bleed and I have been there. NASTY G.M . Design! I agree,it can be a nightmare.
The syringe method has been great with excellent results for me. It purges the air out of the bench-bled unit VERY effectively: BACKWARDS.
It's also important to bleed the system(Brakes) under full power booster pressure to eliminate air in the system. Trust me on this. Ray knows,now.
Bench bleeding *does* save a lot of time,when you are bent over a clutch slave or clutch master cylinder,for 1/2 an hour,chasing bleeders.. (Do not overlook this step).
Otherwise,you did it wrong.
Ray and I have been through this messy ordeal and I must insist on doing it MY WAY , the easy way. Speed bleeders are great if you are doing it solo. In fact,I would rather bleed brakes and other hydraulic parts,solo. That way, EYE will control the game,not some else's big-ass foot.
I prefer to use an adjustable hood rod, instead of a human foot.
Trust me on this,I have used average-sized humans to bleed brakes,as an assistant. BAD idea.
To control the situation,I want full control.
"It's your fault!" No,it's mine ,for letting you 'help'.
Ruin a $1,000 A.B.S. control unit? NO!
Well,not in our cars,thankfully.
Our Supra's brake systems are pretty simple.
Power brakes that runs with a vacuum assist and a reasonably straightforward hydraulic system that works quite well. We are lucky that it is a DUEL master cylinder type.
There is a proportioning valve that limits the rear pressure available to the rear disk brakes.
THAT has been discussed and they do plug up and cannot be adjusted.
We can try to be as helpful as possible.
Every car/truck has different OEM settings,to protect the driver from miss haps. Usually, under steer
is built into the system by using front anti-sway bars and NO rear bar.
Well,a performance car can have both,as ours.
The ideal idea is to have a balanced handling automobile with NO ass-wagging or surprising handling traits. Some cars try to kill you,from the factory.
We can do better. Add some suspension mods to make it "better".
Look at the Supra's that race on the tracks,(Lemons)against later model cars. We do pretty well!
It's very cool that are cars are quite easy to modify to our driving style.
AND WE LOVE IT!
Stock? OEM? As manufactured? Maybe. Not me.
Make your car as best that you can,for YOU.
OK,I'm tired of typing and I need another beer. 10-4.
Thanks Jim, to prod me into this WALL of text,but I cannot possibly compete with Rays walls of text,ever.
I may be over my limit of megabytes,already.
Happy New Year,soon.
Last edited by ddd228; 12-27-2016 at 03:50 AM. Reason: Beer.
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12-27-2016, 04:58 PM #222
Yeah, I re-bled the brakes with the engine running before I left for SIV, and got more air out of them. I had no question on what you guys told me to do, and I'm glad I spent the extra hour or two bleeding them with engine running.The speed bleeders are a marvel, and I hope the person that came up with them made a metric ton of money!
They brakes are ROCK SOLID now. Almost scary good. Good to the point I'm worried about getting rear-ended if I really stomp on them. Pedal feel is one thing, and I know that the tires play a big part in stopping prowess, but this thing will "stop on a dime and give you nine cents change"! The braided lines make a HUGE (or is that "YUGE" these days?) difference, and I strongly recommend anybody doing a full brake rebuild to just bite the bullet and BUY THEM. Your stock, OEM 30 year old hoses are probably toast, anyway. Mine were, and the rubber was peeling off the outside of them showing yellowed fabric underneath. I'd forgotten how much difference the braided hoses made since I had them on both my Corvettes and my Trans Am, and was stunned at the "before and after" difference they made 30 some years ago. They cost a LOT more back then, and you had to find a place that could make them. Plus, we now have them with a coating over them so you don't have to worry about the exposed stainless steel braid acting like a saw and chewing through stuff. I've seen it happen!
Yep, our cars are two completely different animals. Built for different purposes. I don't know if I'd want to use mine for a DD, although I could if I had to. The cornering limits are higher than what I've been used to for a long time, so I'll have to spend more time learning them, and approach things gradually. Maybe I'll look into doing some autocrossing, although that's generally at lower speeds than you could do on the roads.
When it was all stock, I took my wife out for a ride one night, and took it through one of the nicest on-ramps around here. I was going well over the posted limit, and had the car in a very gentle drift, and was really enjoying it when I noticed she was turning white-to-green, and about to rip the armrest off the door.
If she would have been with me yesterday she would have had to change her undies when we got home.....
Oh, well....I have to run into to Torrance and check my mai, and the drive way is open right now.....
SUPRA TIME!1985 5-speed "Ms. Swan"
OH, What A Feeling!
01-30-2017, 01:29 AM #223
Took the car out this afternoon for several hours, and put almost 100 miles on her. Did my usual freeway loop, some city streets, and some back roads.
Found out the sunroof must have leaked, as the passenger seat was wet! I had the car covered with a cheepie car cover, but the cover got soaked through, and was starting to disintegrate from being in more or less continuous use for the last 18 months.
SO....Monday I'm going to open the sunroof for the first time, and see what it looks like.
And going to finally get around to installing the new rear sway bar lower link bushings, and my "low profile" grease caps.1985 5-speed "Ms. Swan"
OH, What A Feeling!
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01-30-2017, 07:04 PM #224
Jim, very often the leak comes from the bottom of the gutter, where the seam sealer cracks and lets water in. Pull the passenger seat belt and see if it is also wet on the "inside" section.
01-30-2017, 07:12 PM #225
Thanks for the tips!
I had other things to do today, so I'll check those things tomorrow.
It was water right in the middle of the seat bottom, and the floor and carpet areas were dry when I checked those Sunday after I got back home.1985 5-speed "Ms. Swan"
OH, What A Feeling!
01-31-2017, 03:12 PM #226
In my experience, wet seat belts have been caused by cracked seam sealer where the quater panel is welded to the inner panel at the base of the quater glass, under the lower piece of window trim.
The sunroofs can certainly get weird occasional leaks on these cars though. If your drains are indeed free and clear, sometimes its just from being parked on a funny angle and water filling up in the tub and not draining properly. Though with the heat the roof experiences, I could see some cars having cracked sealer where the tub bonds to it, but you would still need a large amount of water already in the tub for it to come out that seam. I would think it would just pour out the main opening before coming through the seam.Black 86 mk2 Project Car
New SDR 86 mk2 Daily User, Highway Cruiser AND Parking Lot Abuser in the works!
01-31-2017, 06:18 PM #227
I Screwed Up BIG Time!
WELL.....I got the sunroof opened a little while ago. It opens and closes perfectly, and there's no sign of any leaks from up there, so I'll investigate the wet bottom cushion on the passenger seat further. In the mean time, the sunroof, windows, and hatch are open to help dry the car out. I have a big fan blowing into it, too.
I'll read the TSM on where and how to lube the sunroof sliding mechanism to keep it in good working condition. I was amazed at how fast it opens and closes; the little air deflector that pops up is a nice touch. Since my A/C doesn't work (item #99 on the "fixit" list), I just might be using the sunroof when I drive the car, even though I generally hate the damn things.
The one on my 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee has NEVER been opened!
ANYWAY.........from having the rear spoiler removed, and using blue painter's masking tape over the holes, I caused another problem during the recent deluge.
The blue paper tape had disintegrated, leaving the two holes at the bottom edge by the wiper blade of the hatch open. The rest of the mounting holes are outside the rubber seal, but these two look directly into the luggage area.
Yep, a LOT (well, to me) of water got in and collected in spots it shouldn't go.
ZERO water came out of the internal structure of the hatch when I opened it, so hopefully none got in there, as this hatch is pristine and rust free, although it needs new paint like the rest of the car.
The spare tire well had about 2" of water in it, so I pulled the two rubber plugs and drained it, and then mopped up what water the didn't drain out. The spare, a Dunlop "SP Sport D3" (flat, of course) looks like it's never been on the ground, and still has all the little rubber nubs, and color dots. If this was a "Red Line" tire from an American muscle car, it would be worth big bucks to the restoration crowd!
The "well" area on the passenger side where the washer bag hangs was completely dry, but the "well" area on the driver's side where the jack and tools go was flooded with several inches of water. I sucked that out with my wet-or-dry shop vac, and then toweled it out to as dry as I could get it. It also has a fan blowing on it. I think I've seen pix here showing where another rubber plug is located to drain the area, so I'll crawl around under the car and look for it.
The blue paper masking tape has been peeled off and replaced with some aluminum metal tape. This tape is adhesive-backed thin aluminum metal (very heavy "foil") that's used on roofing and exhaust ducts for water heaters and furnaces, NOT regular fabric "duct tape". It's also used for reeeeal cheeep auto body repair, like we used on my buddies 1962 Corvair that he drove when we were in college back in the 1970's.
I'm really red-faced over this. I never should have used the paper tape in the first place when the spoiler was pulled, but it's a case of using what was on hand, not changing it for something much more durable, and paying the piper later.
Feel free to yell, scream, and shout at me about being REALLY STUPID!1985 5-speed "Ms. Swan"
OH, What A Feeling!
01-31-2017, 06:58 PM #228
Jim, there is in fact 2 rubber plugs on each side.
All of them are very close to the wheel, not the bumper. There is one on the inner vertical steel panel, facing the exhaust. But the one you want to remove to drain the side storage areas is on the small horizontal flat section, just behind the mud flap. It's a square rubber piece of less than 1cm x 1 cm. I say a Supra is probably rust free when the paint is still intact in this area, both side!
PS: good old electrical tape would have sealed the holes too.
01-31-2017, 07:30 PM #229
I found that plug and pulled it, and only a few drops of water came out, so I probably got most of it from the top.
I'll leave the plug out for a few days so the sir can circulate through the area to dry it out more.1985 5-speed "Ms. Swan"
OH, What A Feeling!
01-31-2017, 08:22 PM #230
I think that your leak(s) are where mine are.
Rain water goes down the rails under the hatch and dribbles down into the tail lights and past the gasket. Also, under both lower corners of the rubber hatch seal(Very common).
I replaced the tail light gaskets,but water still gets in,a little.
To catch some of the water,I use full size depends in there and they fit perfectly.
I leave the spare tire and the lower side plugs OUT.A big shot of WD-40 wouldn't hurt.Well,it's not good for the spare.
Pull up the lower corners of the rubber hatch seal and see the crappy job of seam sealer in there?
I just used silicone,but did not push the hatch seal back on when it was still gooey.
Check this out:
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