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Carbon fiber hatch setup

15K views 85 replies 21 participants last post by  mutantcolors 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi All,

It's been a while since I last posted any project updates on my car. I picked up one of the carbon fiber hatches from George's group buy but didn't even open the box until last weekend...Anyway, I'm working now to get it ready to install on my car. My plan is to install the '82-'84' sunshade spoiler on my '85 carbon hatch--I always preferred this spoiler over the ones on the '85-'86 models. My factory hatch is in mint condition so i'll keep it and the original spoiler setup...but the new hatch with sunshade spoiler will give my car a different look.

Last year I picked up a sunshade spoiler from an '84...it was severely pitted and in need of some body work. So, step-1 is to fix the spoiler:

I started sanding the spoiler before applying body filler:


close up of what I was up against:


First coat of body filler. I used Evercoat Quantum1 which is nice for jobs like this as it's a great filler yet thin like finishing putty--very easy to butter on:


All the body work done, 2 coats of Souther Polyurethane's 2K primer (I love all their products--so easy to work with), sanded and ready for a couple coats of jet black paint:


Here's a pic just after I shot the first coat of clear coat. (Used Southern Polyurethane's Universal Clear product--again excellent stuff):


More pics to follow of the finished sunshade spoiler after another coat of clear, cut and buff...

But I need some help: the carbon hatch has zero indications on where I need to drill the holes to mount this spoiler. Can someone send me sunshade mounting hole measurements from an '82-84' hatch? Doesn't have to be exact but as close as possible would be good...I'm thinking just the measurement location of the upper hole is all I need. I can use the mounting backing plate as a 'template' to locate the lower hole on each side.Thanks in advance.

More to come on this project...stay tuned.

-Dan
 
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#4 ·
Oh hell yes, looking forward to this. I've been running my cf hatch wingless and love it, but am curious how it will look with the early sunshade spoiler. Make sure you run the glass with the hole for the support rod though, it will take some pressure off the cf hatch. The hole in the glass should give you a decent indicator of placement as well.

I'm at work away from my car at the moment, but i would bet that the holes for the OEM mounts could be seen from the bottom. Well maybe, depends on if the hatch they used to make the mold had those holes. I know on my hood/hatch you can see small bumps/imperfections where factory holes are supposed to be.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Thanks Xeno--this is exactly what I need!

I looked for slight impressions on the back of the CF hatch but could not see any evidence where the factory holes would have been. It could be they used an 85+ hatch to build the mould.

I plan on transferring my 85 hatch glass so it won't have the hole in it for the center support on the spoiler. The CF hatch seems very stout so I can't imaging the weight of the spoiler causing too much stress on the CF hatch. But I'll see once I get it all mocked up...

-Dan
 
#7 ·
Nice job on the wing :thumbsup:

I plan on transferring my 85 hatch glass so it won't have the hole in it for the center support on the spoiler. The CF hatch seems very stout so I can't imaging the weight of the spoiler causing too much stress on the CF hatch. But I'll see once I get it all mocked up...
It's not the weight of the wing that concerns me, it's the wind resistance. They prob used a polyester composite on the hatch, so may be prone to spider cracks and fraying at the pressure points. I would internally reinforce that section of the carbon fiber before mounting. Epoxy will stick to polyester, but not the other way around GLWT
 
#6 ·
I'm not 100% sure, but I beleive the side studs holes of an 85 are on the same location as on the 84 hatches. Someone with access to both may chime in to confirm.
 
#9 ·
'Might' is the operational word. I wouldn't risk my beautiful wing or hatch (unless you don't plan to drive fast). There's a reason for the hole in the glass...the foam 'might' provide cushion on the glass for downforce but I would at least use some kind of epoxy or superglue for good measure.
 
#11 ·
i would leave the stud bit and put the foam there so it has the pressure point. i couldn't imagine it doing much with all 4 studs bolted. the only time i've seen a spoiler come off, was a roof wing on a s13, they're attached with ONLY double sided tape, and it only came off because he did a backy entry and the wing lifted the wing and it shot off, but other than that, never. the sunshade is pretty beefy, i don't quite understand how it would split or blow up at speeds, past 200km/hr maybe things will get shaky? but, i don't think so
 
#12 ·
Funny you say 200kmh hehehe. Trying to find a mirror of the site with pics now, but no luck. Norbie is still around on toymods though, half tempted to ask if he still has those pics floating around :p
http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?2316-Lost-my-rear-sunshade-at-200km-h!

There is however a really nice selection of scanned brochures up still: https://web.archive.org/web/20031018234831/http://norbie.net/Supra_brochure.htm

The sunshade also knocks 5mph off the top speed, so you know it has some serious drag. The amount of flex my cf hood/hatch get from just the stock struts pushing up against them is enough for me to be worried about not using the center strut on the sunshade.
 
#17 ·
Drool...Whereabouts are you located? [Disregard, I see you're in St. Louis] I'd totally be willing to pay boxing/shipping but I know how much of a hassle it is on your time...At this point, I'd even be willing to throw in bucks for your time to get it shipped out too...I'm game if you are; we can work it out over PM if you're interested.
 
#16 ·
lol

Yeah it was Norb who famously busted his 82-84 spoiler after getting his 2jzgte swap going and testing it out on the highway. No center post.

Never liked the early spoiler, its a polarizing feature of the mk2 for sure.

And yup, the 85\86 hatches have the exact same holes in them for the later spoiler, just more elsewhere too.
 
#21 ·
Tim hooked me up with an '84 hatch glass. It made it fine via UPS shipping. Thanks again Tim!! I also just received a new glass gasket from George @Raptor. I'm going to tint the glass with 5% before installing it into the CF hatch. It'll come together quick now!

 
#22 ·
Have you ever run 5% before in a supra? I have, I will never again. Even with super bright reverse lights it was almost impossible to see out the back at night. I run 20% now in all my cars. If you tint the front side windows too it keeps out enough light that you can't see much of anything from the outside looking in, but outwards visibility is excellent.
 
#24 ·
that is correct. limo tint is double 5% or typically read as 3% for reference. 20% is the best of all worlds in tint.
check your county/city/state for regulations in regards to your front 2 windows, unless suprafiend was talking about the back 2 side windows? supras have 5 total + windsheild.

In BC its illegal. but places like texas and cali and arizona etc. allow all windows and half your windshield to be tint, for example, due to heat in those areas.
 
#26 ·
Thanks, I was pretty sure that's what the numbers meant, but wanted to ask.

The regulations are pretty strict here in SoCal about how dark your tint can be, and what windows can be tinted.

They basically want to be able to see INTO the car when they approach it. I know people that have been busted for tint on their side windows because it was too dark. The cops have a little gadget they use to measure the light transmission through the glass, and if it's too dark....Ticket Time!

It's still considered a "FixIt Ticket", but where those used to be free, now they clobber you for some "administrative" fees to get it cleared.

My Supra used to have the back window tinted (can see traces of the glue), and the rear quarter windows are tinted, but the tint film has some bubbles, and is more purple in tint.

It's just old, I guess.....
 
#25 ·
I do so much night driving i run no tint, but for a less driven car i don't see why not go dark in the back. I actually would like to run the almost see through ceramic stuff that blocks out most heat/uv but is almost perfectly clear, including on the windshield, it is just super expensive.
 
#27 ·
some old tint turns purple over time from UV. sometimes its just cheap tint.
california should have a tint percentage allowable for front windows or a no tint policy, doesnt seem right to leave it to discretion, that leaves the door wide open for issues. if it was me, i would do 20% all around but if you dont feel good about side windows, do 50% or none. with the back three, the car will be a lot cooler and darker as it is. do the back three and then see how it is. goo gone or wax and grease remover with a WHITE scotch brite pad can do the job too. white scotch brite helps a lot. its meant for clear coat prep on paint jobs for clear blends...its ultra fine. theres also gold too. thats 3Ms colour code tho
 
#30 ·
Actually that's awesome that they allow side window tint in CA and have a system to check how dark it is. It is 100% illegal here but that is such BS. I've been running 50 percent on my door windows for decades and I love it. Never actually gotten stuck with a ticket either. They can still see in, but it keeps my interior from aging, the car way cooler and can be a nice break from too much sun on the skin during the summer. Plus when I do have to leave my cars out, 5 window tint with a sun blocker in the windshield equals 1 completely UV protected interior. Sun damage is the #1 killer of our old irreplaceable interiors, I would recommend everyone with a car they give a damn about run as much tint as they can.

But 5 percent on the back glass is horrible. You still need to be able to see out the back when you're backing up at night.
 
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