Squlliam's '83 P Type Restoration - Page 5

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  1. #41
    CelicaSupra.com Member Road Ripper's Avatar
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    Coffee filter on the fuel pump inlet is correct, to protect the pump from tank debris. Sounds like it's the correct pump.

    Did you check the steering shaft coupler (u joint) down at the steering rack for slop on your 300c? We had a clunk and a little steering looseness on our Magnum, even though all of the other steering parts had either been replaced or checked and greased. That little u-joint had plastic bushings from the factory, that deformed because of exposure from the exhaust manifold on the hemis. Replaced it with a new Dorman part that was all metal, for around $70 from Rock Auto. That fixed it, for a lot better and cheaper than an oem part.

    We loved the Magnum, but had to sell it to buy a newer minivan for our growing family. We bought a 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan Crew in July of 2015 and fell in love with that, but sadly it was totalled on Sept. 14th, 2016 when a newish mom in a brand new Ford Edge made a left turn in front of my wife. We had just paid it off, too. It actually wasn't terribly damaged, but it needed a whole front end of body parts and all the airbags went off, so financially it was a loss. My wife is still recovering with chiropractic care, massage and physical therapy. She still didn't come out too badly after basically T-boning that Ford at 40mph directly on its rear wheel! The Ford had only been off the lot for a day, and it had to be hauled away on a flatbed because the rear axle had bent and been pushed sideways!

    Now we have a 2011 Toyota Sienna XLE and another car payment because we were rushed to buy it and forced to buy an extended warranty that I'll never use for an extra $3,000. That's another whole story though. Suffice it to say my sig needs to be updated LOL.
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    Dan (DragonLady's husband) *RIP Tyler (2yo son lost to cancer)
    1986 P-type (Ruffian) black 6M 5 speed (formerly Lexusboy's), sitting.
    1986 P type MKII 2tone night blue met/silver met. 5MGE auto, waiting for summer.
    2005 Dodge Magnum Magnesium Pearl - new family car!
    2000 Chrysler Town & Country - Charcoal, family/stuff hauler

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  3. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by ddd228 View Post
    William,it looks like the pump is supplied with a fitting in the "kit" They are different threads to fit other cars,besides a VW Fox. See if the banjo bolt fits the fitting that is shown in your hand.
    you may still need more parts to make that pump work.

    That dirty brass fitting may be the banjo "bolt". It has a 1/8th pipe plug in it to check for fuel pressure.

    What about the filter?
    My '84 filter has threaded holes that accept the banjo and a special bolt secures it to the filter housing.
    Too tight is just right;They tend to leak.

    PS: The lower control arm bushings take a crap on the 300C cars. I've replaced 2 of them.
    The ENTIRE control arm is the replacement.
    It is not an easy job. Large pry bars are required.
    The pump I ordered is fairly sparse. It has a couple of electrical wires/connectors, two washers, an O ring, and rubber isolator for the bracket (which my car doesn't have anymore, old pump was ziptied). I can't take the connector out of the new pump like I did with the old pump, its pressed in, as are all the other Toyota pumps I keep seeing. All the fittings in my hand in the pictures are from the old pump and wont work with the new one. old pump has 12x1.5 threads vs new being at 12x1. The banjo fitting it actually part of the old pump.

    I have a diagram from a Celica (assuming same setup for EFI) and it looks like I'm missing the "silencer" that threads on the discharge end of the pump. However that still leaves the fuel somewhere to go. I'm confused as to how the fuel gets from the end of the pump into the fuel line since the new pumps do not have hold drilled into the side of the fitting for the line like the fitting on the old pump.

    I love my 300, but LOATHE how it has so much Merc DNA. Its an S Class SLA B.S. front end with an E Class 5 link rear. It has so many bushings and moving parts, its sloppy from the factory. Energy actually makes every single bushing for the chassis on the LX cars, so that's what I went with. Nice fresh poly control arm bushings, lol.
    1983 P Type 5MGE (restoration project/summer toy)
    2008 Chrysler 300C Hemi (trusty DD)
    2002 Intrepid SE (first car, summer ONLY)

  4. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road Ripper View Post
    Coffee filter on the fuel pump inlet is correct, to protect the pump from tank debris. Sounds like it's the correct pump.

    Did you check the steering shaft coupler (u joint) down at the steering rack for slop on your 300c? We had a clunk and a little steering looseness on our Magnum, even though all of the other steering parts had either been replaced or checked and greased. That little u-joint had plastic bushings from the factory, that deformed because of exposure from the exhaust manifold on the hemis. Replaced it with a new Dorman part that was all metal, for around $70 from Rock Auto. That fixed it, for a lot better and cheaper than an oem part.

    We loved the Magnum, but had to sell it to buy a newer minivan for our growing family. We bought a 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan Crew in July of 2015 and fell in love with that, but sadly it was totalled on Sept. 14th, 2016 when a newish mom in a brand new Ford Edge made a left turn in front of my wife. We had just paid it off, too. It actually wasn't terribly damaged, but it needed a whole front end of body parts and all the airbags went off, so financially it was a loss. My wife is still recovering with chiropractic care, massage and physical therapy. She still didn't come out too badly after basically T-boning that Ford at 40mph directly on its rear wheel! The Ford had only been off the lot for a day, and it had to be hauled away on a flatbed because the rear axle had bent and been pushed sideways!

    Now we have a 2011 Toyota Sienna XLE and another car payment because we were rushed to buy it and forced to buy an extended warranty that I'll never use for an extra $3,000. That's another whole story though. Suffice it to say my sig needs to be updated LOL.
    I'm actually missing the coffee filter. I only know about it from the forums here and from a diagram of a 3rd Gen Celica that shows the little bastard.

    I know all about that ragjoint, haha. I've been meaning to get around to changing it because I can feel it through the wheel. I had no idea it was the Hemi's manifolds that killed it, I just assumed it was just because it was so small. 4,000 pound car and big wheels seems like a lot for that little guy. I actually had my clunk isolated to the control arm bushings, namely the tension strut's or lack thereof. I love the Caravan, not a huge fan of the Pacifica. I'm sure you weren't frowning with that Pentastar under the hood. Its a very potent motor. Not as bullet proof as the tried and true old school 3.3/3.8, but more high tech.
    1983 P Type 5MGE (restoration project/summer toy)
    2008 Chrysler 300C Hemi (trusty DD)
    2002 Intrepid SE (first car, summer ONLY)

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  6. #44
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    I'm going to put up a WTB thread seeing if anybody has the missing pieces I need for my car.
    1983 P Type 5MGE (restoration project/summer toy)
    2008 Chrysler 300C Hemi (trusty DD)
    2002 Intrepid SE (first car, summer ONLY)

  7. #45
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    I was bored the other night and decided to pull the exhaust valve cover to check and see how the lobes looked. Not good. Cylinders, 2, 4 and 5 show heavier wear and Cylinder 1 has the precursor to some wearing issues.I remember reading how hard cams are to come by for the 5M for this super common issue so to say the least I'm not exactly thrilled right now. Today I decided to pull the Intake cover to see how bad that side is. First, what a complete pain it is to get that side off. Between the breather hose (used to be rubber, now "plastic" from age) not wanting to slip off to the spatter shield towards the back of the head holding it against the throttle return spring bracket on the TB, it didn't want to give anything up. But I did eventually remove it and was met with....nothing. no damage to the lobes whatsover. A little bit of wear, but no scoring of any kind. All 6 were nice and smooth to the touch. So I'm depressed that I have to try and track down an exhaust cam and pray my motor didn't eat too much metal, but happy that the intake cam looks to be okay. I'll be pulling the complete top end here in about a week or so and start stripping things down and sending parts off to be worked over/cleaned/powdercoated. I took pictures of the lobes, hopefully I can get these in the right order.

    Intake cam #'s 1-6









    Exhaust cam #'s 1-6



    First badly scored lobe #2



    Numbers 4 and 5





    So thats what I'm dealing with cam wise. Other than the scoring, it looks like normal wear. I'll probably just have the intake polished up a bit along with the exhaust once I source one. Im hoping my towers are okay. Those seem just as hard to find.



    And the 33 year old original timing belt with a TON of deflection, lol.
    1983 P Type 5MGE (restoration project/summer toy)
    2008 Chrysler 300C Hemi (trusty DD)
    2002 Intrepid SE (first car, summer ONLY)

  8. #46
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraMoto's Avatar
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    Oh the carnage ! At least used cams can be found pretty cheap.

    Those exhaust cams #2, #4 and #5 are worn down on the heel (the side opposite the lobe)...... this might mean that those particular valves wouldn't have been closing all the way as a result, leading to poor running. This could all be a result of the rockers being forced upwards into the cam too hard by the lash adjusters -----> plugged cylinder head oil pressure regulator leading to too high oil pressure in the lash adjusters perhaps ?

    I had one really bad lobe with this same problem (cam wear on the heel), but the lobe itself was also heavily worn down in my case.


    At least your intake side looks good, not even any pitting to be seen, nice.
    '83 Black P-Type

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  9. #47
    CelicaSupra.com Member Road Ripper's Avatar
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    The earlier engines had issues with cam oiling, which was why the engineers changed the cams in 1985. There was a sticky somewhere about this update. Also in 1987 engineers put a stronger spring in the upper oil pressure regulator (the thing between the cams at the top front of the engine). This was to keep higher oil pressure in the head to further decrease cam wear. So, to make the top of the engine better I would get 85 or newer cams and the oil pressure regulator spring for an 87-88 5mge (or shim the original spring, but I don't know exactly how much). If you get used cams, try to get the cam followers with them and the followers should be marked/matched to their corresponding lobes.
    Hidden Content
    Dan (DragonLady's husband) *RIP Tyler (2yo son lost to cancer)
    1986 P-type (Ruffian) black 6M 5 speed (formerly Lexusboy's), sitting.
    1986 P type MKII 2tone night blue met/silver met. 5MGE auto, waiting for summer.
    2005 Dodge Magnum Magnesium Pearl - new family car!
    2000 Chrysler Town & Country - Charcoal, family/stuff hauler

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