Squlliam's '83 P Type Restoration - Page 3

Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 47
  1. #21
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraMoto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Victoria, B.C. Canada
    Posts
    225
    Not sure exactly where mine is leaking, probably the filler neck to the tank, it leaks when over half full. I'd have to make a gasket like you said since there probably isn't one to buy.
    '83 Black P-Type

    My threads:
    -- Hidden Content
    -- Hidden Content

  2. Remove Advertisements
    CelicaSupra.com
    Advertisements

  3. #22
    CelicaSupra.com Member ddd228's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    N. Seattle.
    Posts
    4,269
    Like I said,I'm not sure that there is HOSE or a gasket that needs attention there.
    I looked for a long time for a blow up illustration of the '83 gas tank and related parts, but came up empty.
    The '83 tank may be a little different than the '84 tank in that yours has an external fuel pump and filter.
    This is an '85:
    http://www.backglass.org/duncan/supr.../gas_tank.html It shows a flange to the filler hose/tube.
    This didn't help:
    http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem-t...fuel-tank.html

    You may have a leak at the tank and not the filler neck connection.
    Time to crawl around down there with 2 cans of brake clean,but
    I would pressure wash down there first, so you can see better without the mud in the way,William and SupraMoto.
    Last edited by ddd228; 12-26-2016 at 05:26 PM. Reason: '83 gas tank leak.
    Dave in Seattle. I keep LATE hours.Hidden Content
    '84 type "L" ,Auto ,daily driver. Dk blue.

  4. #23
    CelicaSupra.com Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Arlington, WA
    Posts
    1,122
    All years have the same tank and filler neck. There is a difference between the drop in pick up assembly between the early type with an external fuel pump and later with the in tank pump though.
    The filler neck is solid metal. There isn't a hose in it. And if I recall correctly, there's just a maybe 1/8" thick hard gasket between the filler neck and the tank. There's 8 to 10 little philips/hex head bolts that attach the filler neck to the tank. From my experience, they're always a PITA to remove. So don't even think about trying to use a philips to do so. And be sure to clean off all the crap in the surrounding area so none of it falls into the tank as you loosen the neck. These are the same bolts that hold the pick up assembly to the tank. It's highly recommended that you use some penetrating fluid on them probably a couple of times before attempting removal. I've always found that giving them a good whack before attempting removal helps to break them loose as does trying to tighten them ever so slightly before removal. Breaking any of these off will definitely complicate your job. So take your time and use all the tools and procedures you can to minimize your chances of doing so.
    There's also 3 or 4 of these same bolts that are inside the gas door that attach the rubber seal around the filler neck to the body.
    I can't say for sure if the tank can be removed without removing the filler neck. But I'm sure that it will be easier to do so. However, it should be relatively easy to remove the filler neck without removing the tank. There is a vent tube that extends a few inches up into the filler neck though. So it will have to be lifted up some to be pulled away from the tank. I'm pretty sure that there's enough room to do this.
    I've replaced my fuel pump a couple of times and helped a couple of other folks do so as well. It's just been a while. So I can't remember exactly which order I've done things in. I pretty sure that removing the filler neck can be done before dropping the tank at all. There's a cut out in the filler neck itself that fits over the vent tube. And if I remember correctly, it's this cutout that makes it easy to remove it from the tank. Because you only have to lift the filler neck up as far up as it extends into the tank and not as far as the vent tube extends up into it due to the cutout on the end of the filler tube for it.
    If you're sure that your leak is in this area, you can easily remove the one plastic shield that protects that area by just removing the one or two bolts holding it in place and get a better look.
    If you find you need a filler neck, I have one and likely others do as well, and they're cheap and easy to ship. Those pics Dave took of my clean spare tank was before I found out just how outrageous the costs were to properly pack and ship one. I ended up suggesting that the potential buyer source one within whatever driving distance he was comfortable with instead!
    And I totally agree with you on how vanilla the Camry and Prius are. I've always said that the Camry and Accord are great cars for people that are already dead! Ha! I find it hard to fathom how the same company that made our wonderful cars made those other two soulless things!
    I don't really have much of an opinion at all on Prius'. I do know I would never own one. And that has nothing to do with it being a green car. In fact I'm all for the concept. Just not that particular design. I do find it laughable how some environmentalists (emphasis on the mental) are upset about hybrid vehicles that people buy because it's a way to get even better performance and still get reasonably good MPG's. They claim that's not at all what they're supposed to be for. Talk about head in the sand!
    Last edited by ray85p; 12-26-2016 at 09:33 PM.

  5. Remove Advertisements
    CelicaSupra.com
    Advertisements

  6. #24
    CelicaSupra.com Member drjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    SoCal / Long Beach
    Posts
    2,933
    Yep, and the Greenie Weenies also completely ignore the environmental damage done by the mining of the rare earth elements required to make the magnets in the motor, and the Nickel used in the NiMH batteries in the "Pious Prius".
    1985 5-speed "Ms. Swan"

    OH, What A Feeling!

  7. #25
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Pittsburgh
    Posts
    32
    Well I decided if I was going to sit around and do nothing this evening, I might as well go ahead and look at how the tank was going to drop out. Well one thing lead to another and well....



    It actually came out pretty easy. However the driver's side bracket that holds the strap in place is pretty well shot. I decided rather than create further stress on it and possibly twist and break it, I just took it off of the body as a whole. I'm going to try and go some plate welded on it and clean up the threads so I can use it as it looks like its going to be next to impossible to find another.



    The sending unit looks a little worse for wear



    As does the passenger 1/4. Its not terrible, but its not great. Its a good thing it looks pretty easy and straightforward to replace.




    But the rest of the trunk pan looks to be in pretty good shape







    Maybe Saturday evening I'll go ahead and finish taking the fuel pump out. I have everything disconnected except for a banjo fitting. Called it a night after stale gas fumes started making me sick.
    1983 P Type 5MGE (restoration project/summer toy)
    2008 Chrysler 300C Hemi (trusty DD)
    2002 Intrepid SE (first car, summer ONLY)

  8. #26
    CelicaSupra.com Member ddd228's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    N. Seattle.
    Posts
    4,269
    YAY! You got the tank out and begin your rust repair AND finding that gas tank leak as well.
    A motorcycle shop or a small engine repair shop will take your NASTY gasoline.
    You will find you gas tank easily with it out in the open.
    Yes,there may be some trouble if the leak is in the tank and not the filler joint/gasket area.
    I (and you) are curious to see what the inside of the tank looks like.
    You may get lucky to find the leak at the filler neck joint. MAKE a gasket and you are good. Right?
    There is a pick up strainer in the tank.
    As far as the strap goes,move AWAY from the gasoline-infested area and use heat to see if you can free the rusty strap from the tank strap. Clean the threads and replace the nut with a new(SS?) one?
    Mine was not seized up like yours is.
    Have a CO 2 fire extinguisher handy. The ABC ones shoot out some insidious yellow dust that makes a terrible mess! DAYS to clean up.

    You have some fender well rust to deal with.
    Great photos,William! Thanks for this.
    Dave in Seattle. I keep LATE hours.Hidden Content
    '84 type "L" ,Auto ,daily driver. Dk blue.

  9. #27
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraMoto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Victoria, B.C. Canada
    Posts
    225
    Looks like you got your work cut out for you (that's an expression here in case it doesn't translate in the UK).
    I have the same rusty mess under my rear, so Ill be very interested in this.
    '83 Black P-Type

    My threads:
    -- Hidden Content
    -- Hidden Content

  10. #28
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Pittsburgh
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by ddd228 View Post
    YAY! You got the tank out and begin your rust repair AND finding that gas tank leak as well.
    A motorcycle shop or a small engine repair shop will take your NASTY gasoline.
    You will find you gas tank easily with it out in the open.
    Yes,there may be some trouble if the leak is in the tank and not the filler joint/gasket area.
    I (and you) are curious to see what the inside of the tank looks like.
    You may get lucky to find the leak at the filler neck joint. MAKE a gasket and you are good. Right?
    There is a pick up strainer in the tank.
    As far as the strap goes,move AWAY from the gasoline-infested area and use heat to see if you can free the rusty strap from the tank strap. Clean the threads and replace the nut with a new(SS?) one?
    Mine was not seized up like yours is.
    Have a CO 2 fire extinguisher handy. The ABC ones shoot out some insidious yellow dust that makes a terrible mess! DAYS to clean up.

    You have some fender well rust to deal with.
    Great photos,William! Thanks for this.
    Oh I know where it was leaking. the drain plug wasn't exactly tight, but other than that its pretty dry. No cracked or split hoses or super scaley lines. My next task is to try and get the sending unit out w/o buggering the screws too badly. The rust surprised me for sure. Its only on the passenger side though. Drivers side is pretty solid as far as I can tell.
    1983 P Type 5MGE (restoration project/summer toy)
    2008 Chrysler 300C Hemi (trusty DD)
    2002 Intrepid SE (first car, summer ONLY)

  11. #29
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Pittsburgh
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by SupraMoto View Post
    Looks like you got your job cut out for you (that's an expression here in case it doesn't translate in the UK).
    I have the same rusty mess under my rear, so Ill be very interested in this.
    Yeah, like i said, it looks pretty straightforward. No complex curves or shapes to really worry about. Shouldn't be too terrible welding in some fresh metal. The issue lies within getting the car to a place I can do that. Honestly I might just patch it the best I can right now and later on in the year, take it to my buddy's place and drop the tank there since its easier than I anticipated. Right now my primary focus is getting her to run correctly, I dont want to get sidetracked just yet.
    1983 P Type 5MGE (restoration project/summer toy)
    2008 Chrysler 300C Hemi (trusty DD)
    2002 Intrepid SE (first car, summer ONLY)

  12. #30
    CelicaSupra.com Member drjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    SoCal / Long Beach
    Posts
    2,933
    Well done!

    1985 5-speed "Ms. Swan"

    OH, What A Feeling!

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts