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Getting no spark or fuel 86 Supra

3K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  Gargravarr 
#1 ·
No spark or fuel.

Hi guys, hoping I can get some help from the 5M gurus.

I took my 86 Ptype for a drive and it was running fine, I stalled it (I don’t drive it much and have 3 manual cars so it takes me a while to get used to the clutch on them). After that the car would not start, I get no fuel and no spark (car cranks of course). I checked all the relevant fuses.

Any ideas?

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
sometimes when you stall them, the ECU pour full in and they get wet. cranking at WOT helps. Could also have something that failed at the same time. If you have a timing light, that will check timing belt and igniter at the same time. Does the exhaust smell fuel?
Gee that '98 looks nice!
 
#3 ·
It's definitely not getting fuel, there's no fuel smell from the exhaust and the spark plugs are nice and dry. It's also not getting any spark. So whatever condition is causing this is causing no spark and no fuel.

Any ideas?

And thanks on my 98 Supra! I recently sold it (I regret it) but I bought a black 6speed 1997 (single turbo) with 31K miles
 
#4 ·
Do you get a CE light when the key is turned on (verify ECU is being powered)? Next I pulled the distributor cap and crank it to verify the rotor is turning. The pickup is in the distributor so if that isn't rotating the ECU won't even try.
 
#5 ·
Yes on CE light. I took the cap off to verify the rotora hadn't come off but didn't crank the engine to ensure it's turning.

I also am not getting spark from the coil (but have 12V going to the coil)

Thanks for the reply!
 
#6 ·
if the timibg belt broke, the rotor won't be turning => no spark & no fuel. The ECU needs rotation from the distributor to trigger both. Ensure it rotates. (broken belt did happen to me on the road)
 
#7 ·
If it's not the EFI fuse or the fusible links in the fuse box or on the black box coming off the positive battery terminal, or the main relay, then I'm guessing it's your AFM. The connector going to the afm may have come off (not uncommon if the connector is cracked or missing it's metal retainer), or perhaps the flapper in it has become jammed. The ecu will not turn on the pump or give spark till the afm reports some air flow. Given the circumstance that led to this, I'm guessing AFM.

The ecu becoming unplugged is the only other condition that can cause this result as I recall.
 
#8 ·
Thanks for the ideas! AFM is possible, I have not checked it. I know it's not the timing belt as I removed a plug and cranked it without the plug in and you can clearly hear the uneven cranking.

Thanks for the ideas, I'll have to try them!
 
#9 ·
I was also guessing timing belt, like Red. I would crank in while observing the dist. rotor. If the rotor does not rotate, visually inspect the timing belt. If it does rotate, yeah go on to the AFM.
 
#10 ·
Don't think its the timing belt. You should still have fuel in that case. This is the ECU either not powering on, or failing a startup procedure and denying spark and fuel. Won't be a mechanical failure. 98, if my ideas don't pan out, just run through the trouble shooting section in the FSRM. It has a section specifically for this problem and the exact procedures to run through to find the problem.
 
#12 ·
Thanks to all of you for your input. Fortunately I have a Toyota service manual (85 Supra, same as my 86). Based on your inputs I checked the MAF first, it checked out fine. I then checked the coil. It passed the first 2 tests on the manual but failed the 3rd test (it has you connect a battery to test fire the coil).

My good friend Dave Koos, Supradavis on here, let me borrow 2 (I only asked for one) coil/igniter modules. As soon as I plugged the first one it fired right up. Because he wasn’t sure if both were good (hence the reason he let me borrow both) I decided to check the 2nd one so he knew if they were good, both were good. I then swapped one of his coils with mine (using my igniter) and no go. I then did the opposite, my coil with one of his igniters and that worked

So I then asked Dave if he was willing to sell me one of his igniters and he said yes (at too low a price so I had to decline and offer him more, 4X what he was asking, which was too absurdly low).

Again, THANKS for the tips as it did lead me towards the right place to look!
 
#15 ·
I have known Dave for probably 17 years or so (we have both been in the Supra community for a long time) and he has always been a great guy!

Suprafiend, absolutely, the spark plugs were bone dry when the coil was not firing and even with one spark plug removed when cranking there was no smell of gas.

Again, thanks all for your inputs!
 
#16 ·
This forum has been a HUGE help to all that have that have asked for help and have given help!:salute:
If you go though life without helping others,you have just wasted your time.

I'm just 65,but this would be a good epitaph:
"Well,that was fun for a while".

I am so sad that Dave Andrew and his wife Barb, is gone from this community,guys.Others, as well.
No one lives forever.

I'll do what I can to pass along my knowledge to any one that wants to listen to my jabber.
So will a lot of us in this forum ,that is all about sharing information.
Please continue this information GOLD MINE.

Yeah,there is a lot of "Dave's" on this valuable forum.
You guys ROCK!:dj_smiley:dj_smiley
Now,back to our regularly scheduled programming:
Supra's rock!

[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS017.jpg.html][/URL]
 
#17 ·
Interesting. The igniter does indeed send an IGf (Ignition Fired) signal back to the ECU, which counts a maximum of 11 sent IGt (Ignition Triggered) pulses with no response before throwing a code 14. However, in my research on Dragon's ignition failures, there was still fuel going through the engine because the cold-start injector doesn't work off the ECU, there's a separate temperature switch that disables it when the coolant starts to flow. If the code 14 cuts off injection, there should still be a faint smell of fuel in the exhaust.

Oh well, glad you got it working again! It's worth getting yourself a spare igniter and keeping it in the car, so I hear this is the most common electronic component to fail and can do so without warning (as you've found).
 
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