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Timing belt pulley issues

1K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  SilverMk2 
#1 ·
Anyone found their timing belt pulleys with the belt guide ring separate from their pulleys? Removed my #3 timing belt cover and found the intake cam pulley guide ring thing wedged below the pulley and behind the timing belt and the timing belt rubbing the front cases of the covers. Suspected a faulty tensioner pulley and now have found both the intake and the crankshaft timing pulleys both have had the belt guide rings separated from the pulleys. Installed new belt and tensioner, hoping that the new belt and tensioner would keep the belt aligned on all the pulleys but as soon as the motor is turned over the belt slides foward and rubs against the lower and upper covers. Any ideas about these guides keeping the timing belt properly aligned. I think newer motors (6M & 7M) don't have any guides on the pulleys. Please help me understand what is happening here. Thanks
 
#2 ·
Newer engines still have the guide rings on the pulleys. You can fix the crankshaft cog by spot welding the guide ring back on. The cam gears are aluminum and the ring is staked on, so no easy fix there. Maybe you could swap the intake and exhaust pulleys around so the intake cam would have the good guide ring on it, since that one is crucial for keeping the belt out of the front cover.
 
#3 ·
Good idea on spot welding the crank pulley and maybe I can find a good aluminum welder to do the same for the intake pulley. The car is an 86 model but the timing pulleys seem to be from earlier model motors so maybe the current motor is not the origional one but I couldn't tell if it was swapped cause it's pretty clean. Thanks for the advice.
 
#5 ·
Pull the intake side cam pulley and find where that guide ring wants to go back on. It will go onto the pulley probably only in one position.
JB weld it back on a STAKE the ring back on again. It happened to me,too!
My engine had a "ring-ding" noise in the front. It was spinning around,loose down there.
I got mine back on,but the following week,it was making a different noise. I replaced the tensioner idler pulley,then.
I had it apart twice within 2 weeks.
LOOK:
[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary-50.jpg.html][/URL]
This is how I held the pulley to remove/replace the bolt:
[URL=http://s514.photobucket.com/user/ddd228/media/temporary-97.jpg.html][/URL]
I jammed the end of the long bar into the lower cover so it wouldn't turn.
A thin-wall 3/4" socket fits fine.:thumbsup:

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK2/manual.aspx?Section=EM&P=7
I found out that the exhaust and intake pulleys were not interchangeable.
 
#6 ·
Plenty of good, used gears out there. I'd go with the later style, round tooth gears.
 
#7 ·
Great feedback and ideas that are motivating my fix plan. Those pics from ddd228 are exactly what mine did but I broke the lower crankshaft pulley ring as well so I'll have to remove the radiator and ac bracket to get at that pulley and I think I'll get it tac welded back on. I was told the cam pulleys are aluminum so the job weld option sounds great! My car is an 86 model but my pulleys are maybe 82-83 model timing pulleys based on the square belt versus the "u" belt that I'm guessing is after 1983? Any input or thoughts about this from anybody is welcomed and appreciated. Thanks for the help that you all have provided I like learning from experience. Please keep the thoughts or ideas co I got of you have them and I'll have to learn how to post pics for your enjoyment.
 
#8 ·
Omkar says that there is a round style tooth belt.
'85 +?
It may be a better design,but why change it over?I would't bother.
The square style works OK.

The pulleys are aluminum and a "staked" steel 'guide ring'.
I think that what causes this failure is the different expansion rates of the dissimilar metals. Comments?
JB Weld and re-staking is the way that would do it,and I DID do it that way with my intake side cam pulley.

I gave that engine away to Nick in Tacoma.(Khlause)
The last hard run on that engine was at the Sultan Bakery Run in 2016,August.
Minimal problems with my rebuilt '85 engine,so far.

I also would be concerned with the tensioner/idler pulley.
It failed a week after my JB Weld repair.

Yeah,you need to pull the lower cover off,after the radiator,etc.
The crank dampener bolt is REALLY tight!
There are posts about quick ways to remove that bolt AND the proper way to remove the dampener.NO prying is allowed.

If the front seal is not leaking: COOL!
if the Cam seals not leaking: COOL!
 
#9 ·
The crank dampener bolt is that the one holding the crank timing pulley? After it drys up in a few days I get back on it and fix those pulleys and get it back up. If it fails again then I'll do the pulley swap for the newer style and see how that works. Thanks for the ideas and pics.
 
#10 ·
What destroys the crank timing gear is people who try and pry it off vs using a puller. You can just tack weld it back on though. Honestly I don't think the ones on the cam gears are that important. Toyota deleted those on the 7M and newer engines.
 
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