WTB - 7M Crank trigger wheel 36-1

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  1. #1
    CelicaSupra.com Member revvhappy's Avatar
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    WTB - 7M Crank trigger wheel 36-1

    If anyone as a 36-1 crank trigger wheel I'd be very interested. There was a group buy 10 years ago and I'm hoping one still exists.

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  3. #2
    CelicaSupra.com Member gamble's Avatar
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    Did you find this old thread with links on how to mod the stock cps? Also the last post is Dave saying he's got one laying around still, that was many moons ago but the dude is a known supra hoarder :P
    http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/sh...-trigger-wheel

    DIY autotune sells quite a few universal ones and shows how to measure for em.
    https://www.diyautotune.com/support/...crank-trigger/
    https://www.diyautotune.com/shop/sen...rigger-wheels/

  4. #3
    CelicaSupra.com Member revvhappy's Avatar
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    I've heard about using the CPS in the dizzy but too many people have already mentioned problems with doing that, including timing belt slop and too much electrical "noise" in the dizzy to get a consistent signal.

    A crank trigger is the best method to be aggressive with timing. I need to maximize the tune to get 2 hours of driving time.

    Thanks for the links.

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  6. #4
    CelicaSupra.com Member supra_toy's Avatar
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    this?

  7. #5
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    That thing weighs a ton unfortunately. I have one too, many peeps do. I believe canadian_pscho does too and he's willing to part with his. Unless I inherited it, I should look...
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  8. #6
    CelicaSupra.com Member revvhappy's Avatar
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    That is definitely the part I'm looking for.

    I was worried about the weight this might add to the crank. Megaquirt sells some "universal" wheels that look much thinner for $35. Would that be a better choice?

  9. #7
    CelicaSupra.com Member Funkycheeze's Avatar
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    Just use the signals from the CPS - has worked great for any standalone ECM I have put on a 7M...
    '84 P-type, 5spd, torrid red, black/grey leather
    Built 7MGTE (JE's, ARP studs, MHG), BOSS STG4 60mm, AEM standalone, R154, 2 1/2" IC and 3" turbo back - the works
    Coilovers, ROH wheels, 4 corner BBK, Konis, ADDCO bars, PST bushings etc. etc.

  10. #8
    CelicaSupra.com Member revvhappy's Avatar
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    Is the CPS different on a 7M?

    I imagine there is still "slop" from the timing belt and electrical noise from the dizzy similar to a 5M. JohnB told me that the timing belt slop could result in significant signal timing issues (5+ degrees). I need to be as precise as possible because we're going to tune this to the edge to get the fuel mileage I need for 2-hour runs.

  11. #9
    CelicaSupra.com Member Funkycheeze's Avatar
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    If that were true, the engine would run like shit. No way the cams can be +- 5 degrees off and have it run properly.

    The CPS in the 7MGTE gives a good 24 tooth continuous pulsed signal (24 teeth per cam rev so 12 teeth per crank rev) and 2 sync signals, one for cyl 1 TDC and 1 for cyl 6 TDC. Most ECMs just use the one signal as a 12 tooth crank angle (non-missing tooth) and the cyl 1 sync signal as the cam sensor. Works really well.

    I'm not clear on if you have a 5M or 7M engine in your car. I don't think the 7MGTE CPS will work in a 5MGE.
    '84 P-type, 5spd, torrid red, black/grey leather
    Built 7MGTE (JE's, ARP studs, MHG), BOSS STG4 60mm, AEM standalone, R154, 2 1/2" IC and 3" turbo back - the works
    Coilovers, ROH wheels, 4 corner BBK, Konis, ADDCO bars, PST bushings etc. etc.

  12. #10
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    He has a 5m. 7m CPS doesn't work, but you can pull the same single from the 5m distributor. Though not sure how many teeth you have to play with on the 5m, it may be a lower resolution signal in that case.

    Yeah the wheels that were sold here long ago are pretty damn heavy all right. They have holes in them that match up with the puller removal tool hole that the stock cranks have in them so you can use long bolts to hold them on. Besides the weight penalty at a very inopportune place, I never liked the exposed pickup solution you had to come up with to make a setup like that work. It always seemed kind of hokey and failure prone to me. If you bump the thing during routine service, your entire tune goes out the window. But I can see there being some degree of inaccuracy pulling off the distributor. I seriously doubt up to 5 degrees though, there is no way the stock timing has to work around that much variance. Too bad nobody makes a carbon or extra reinforced timing belt for the 5m.

    I'd try it using the distrib cps first, tune the timing a little conservative, and log the crap out of your setup in a couple races. Log the knock sensor, MAF and RPM for sure. Look for noise in the knock signal in the ranges that you are concerned about. I've never seen anything worrisome in the signal coming out of mine, but I don't have the ability to tune timing tables yet. I have had some pinging in really hot weather though, but that was mostly due to some leanish spikes in my fuel tuning. Switching to 91 octane briefly also bandaided the problem till I was able to tune it out.

    Also, if you really want a big power bump at the expense of having to run higher octane, then throw mega compression at your motor. It will be more consistent and make better power everywhere as opposed to advancing the crap out of your timing. Something like 10:1 would be pretty reliable on 91 octane. Easy to do with metal head gaskets too.
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