Transmission temperature gauge in A/T pressure port.

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  1. #1
    CelicaSupra.com Member ddd228's Avatar
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    Cool Transmission temperature gauge in A/T pressure port.

    I ordered the parts that I need to get a tranny' temp gauge hooked up.
    AS I understand, the pressure port is a psychotic-weird thread!Comments?
    British Standard Pipe Thread. Emphasis on the BS part: B.S.P.T.

    It's 28 threads per inch and a 1/8" pipe thread is 27 threads per inch. It will screw in there,but it will leak.
    Also,the angle of the threads is different.
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Pipe

    The temp sender comes with a 1/8" pipe threaded fitting and an adapter AND an extender for the sender is REQUIRED. The adapter I got fits a Cummins tranny.
    The entire affair may fit just ahead of the transmission cross member.
    This is the unit that I chose:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/350553729525...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
    $86 for the parts that I bought.Gauge,pod holder,2 adapters,shipped.

    It has (7) colors that you can change with a button press. Cool?
    I'll mount it by my right knee in a pod.I'll be able to run the wires to the fuse box and through the firewall to the drivers side of the tranny' without too many "F" bombs or blood.
    I'll consider some heat/water protection from the elements.
    I did not choose the temp sender install style that goes into(hot side) the cooler line.

    The entire idea with this is if the transmission temp goes above 200*(80C.) The transmission will be hurt when the fluid breaks down from HEAT:
    #1 killer of transmissions. I'll pull over and let it cool down.
    The Grapevine Hill in California is a tranny-killer.

    I installed an after market transmission cooler. I.. HAD TO. The Griffin's do not have an internal cooler for the tranny'. While I was at it,I plumbed in a spin-on transmission filter. The A43DE transmission have just a SCREEN: no filter.In my research,Geo Trackers and S-60 Volvo's use the same transmission+others.
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_A_transmission

    The oil filter adapter also fits a Harley-Davidson motorcycle,but takes a special filter.
    A Perolater PER-1 filter threads right on that fits a Ford,but that is the
    wrong filter. Wix makes one.

    IF you choose to add an after market transmission cooler,the REAR line is the hot side to the cooler. The 5-7 M engines run the transmission cooler lines very near the down pipe. I'll add some Velcro-equipped heat shielding wrap to those lines.
    I won't wrap the down pipe,probably.
    Dave in Seattle. I keep LATE hours.Hidden Content
    '84 type "L" ,Auto ,daily driver. Dk blue.

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  3. #2
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    The "S" in BSPT stands for straight as opposed to the "T" in BTPT which stands for tapered. The Japanese standards are the same as the British ones except in name and possibly additional specs beyond what the British standards cover. Generally straight Pipe fittings require O-rings for sealing while tapered ones seal with the interference between them although not always. I know there are adapters and adapter tees for our oil pressure senders threads that adapt to the much more common 1/8" NPT threads that gauges commonly use. The same adapter should work for what you're doing as well.

  4. #3
    CelicaSupra.com Member ddd228's Avatar
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    WHAAT? My terminology is incorrect? Too much to learn in one lifetime.
    Yeah,I have seen straight pipe threads too.
    The turbo guys already know off this stuff?
    I jumped into a pool of shit,here.
    Thanks,Ray.
    I never can find all the answers that I need in the Internet,ever!
    The need to know falls on all of you people.
    Not much interest on automatic transmissions on this forum,anyway.
    We learn as we go and it's still "I learn something every day" thing.

    What line is the "hot" line out of the tranny?
    What size is the OP sender hole threads?

    Add the AN fittings and my brain explodes.
    Last edited by ddd228; 02-23-2017 at 12:03 AM. Reason: I need adult supervision,sometimes.
    Dave in Seattle. I keep LATE hours.Hidden Content
    '84 type "L" ,Auto ,daily driver. Dk blue.

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  6. #4
    CelicaSupra.com Member Khlause's Avatar
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    Hey Dave, I have a few thoughts on things Automatic related.

    I have an A43D (mechanical body); actually two trucks with these; they are non-lock up transmissions.

    I also have an 83 Car with an A43DE (electronic body), the only real differences are the electronic shifting, and its also a lock up converter.

    My work truck that I often use to pick parts and drag race honda (ricers) while beating them stop light to stop light with a bed full of junk; has the mechanical body non-lock up converter pushing a whopping 115Bhp at the crank though 3.73 gears. Funny how crap for power can actually be quick with the right gearing.. Sorry, got totally derailed here..

    Back to the point I was going to make.

    The pickup with the non-lock up converter only ever gets hot pushing 373 gears when I am pulling a 3500LB fully enclosed cargo trailer (massive wind plow) up a hill at 70mph; you know that long pull coming up out of mill creek on the 405 going north to I5, right there; that will overheat and boil my A43 only under work conditions, but not because anything is wrong with the trans, but simply because the trans cooler is one of those built in units in the car's radiator and the open converter makes TON of heat.

    I really want to get hold of an 82 supra mechanical auto the A43DL, because it would be a bolt in swap, but it has a lockup converter. The bonus is the locking converter adds a few mpg, and it will not make so damn much heat pulling hills like the open converter does.

    I also plan to install a larger aftermarket trans cooler to keep the temp down so that when pulling a load I don't end up boiling the fluid over and blowing the tail shaft seal out. I have also thought about adding a filter like you have already done; would be nice to keep the fluid particle free.

    After my last boil over, I switched changed over to a full synthetic trans fluid because it was all they had at the store I went too. (Valvoline MAX life full synthetic) Some things of note after doing this.. I have picked up an average 2.5 MPG over the last 10 tanks of fuel, and the transmission is more responsive in shifting down when I am slowing for intersection corners and stop lights; its now always in the right gear.. Also it seems to hold gears longer under normal acceleration rather than diving straight for OD as it had always done before. I did not know modern synthetic could make this transmission even better, but it has.


    You may consider checking out the following things on your transmission. Some of this may require a bit of work or special tools; not sure what kind of transmission tools you have; I personally have none, but would lend them too you if I did.

    Checking to see that the lock-up clutch in the converter is actually locking even working. I could see the converter creating more heat than an open converter if its slipping, because not only does the converter when "OPEN" generate quite a bit of heat converting horsepower to torque, it also would be creating even more if the lock up clutch is slipping.


    As for the mounting of your temp sensor; looks like you have that worked out.


    Some interesting things of note. When my mechanical shift A43 gets hot it does not slip at all, but spews fluid past the tail shaft seal.. This adds up to $$$ because getting good seals at Toyota is not cheap.

    The A43's have TV cables getting some engine load information in mechanical format from your foot; if the TV cable is adjusted in a way that does not give you enough line pressure when under load; it may be possible that your clutches could slip; this would also generate some heat and turn the fluid a nice black color; not because its burned but because its full of clutch media.

    As you know A43's dont have real trans filters; they have a mesh screen that keeps the big chunks out of the valve body, these transmissions from what I have been told by a guy that owns a trans shop; nearly last forever and unlike "other" common toyota automatics that sport real filters. This guy makes a living by rebuilding transmissions for other shops and dealers, and from what I have learned from his information it makes me wonder just how strong a guy could build the A43; they kinda remind me of the Ford C4 Auto, they are just damn good little auto's that work with minimal upkeep. I have also been thinking of adding a spin off filter for my A43's because keeping the clutch media out of the fluid cant hurt..


    Sorry for the long ramble on the A43, over all I think they are a better transmission than the W58; I know those words are blaspheme around here, but I have 311,000 original miles on my pickup and its only ever had 2 transmission services ever, not only this but I regularly load it down with 1500 to 2000 LBS of granite, or pull a 3500 LB tool trailers, and it's still going strong. My 83 car has 272,000 and the only issues it ever had was failed speed sensor. If I had of given a W series manual transmission even half of this abuse my pickup sees it would have failed years ago.

    Again sorry for the long rant.. I do like Manual transmissions, I have an 86 manual car and they are fun to drive, but Auto's are just damn nice to drive so long as they are set up right giving you crisp solid firm shifts. I suspect your transmission may have an issue as it should not be producing enough heat to even worry about when pushing a light car with 373, 410 or 430 gears; especially with the limited torque output of the 5MGE, they are not exactly a monster in the horsepower department either in stock form.. Something has gotta be wrong in there if you are producing too much heat in spirited driving or even racing for that matter.
    Last edited by Khlause; 02-23-2017 at 03:37 PM.

  7. #5
    CelicaSupra.com Member ddd228's Avatar
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    I'm happy to hear that a transmission re-builder likes these slush boxes.
    I was worried when we go on our "fun runs" in August. We drive hard and fast,sometimes.
    I ran at the Supra Nationals in Bremerton last year. I did 5 1/4 mile full throttle blasts,back to back and I no idea how hot the transmission fluid actually got.
    I let it cool down after that 5th run,though.I run ATF+4 fluid,that is a little better that plain old ATF.
    It went through the traps @ 78 MPH in 3rd. Damn,that was fun. 4.10 gears.

    The lock up converter may not be locking up,but I cannot feel it.Feels fine,Nick.
    I had a difficult time getting information on my tranny'.
    The BSPT threaded hole was expected.

    I changed the engine oil yesterday and a wash and "blow dry".
    With my LEAF BLOWER. Works great!
    I was too tired to change the tranny' fluid by then.

    I'll see how the gauge works,soon enough.It's going to be tight in there with all of that crap sticking out just ahead of the cross member. I may need to trim it back a little.
    See the photo.
    Dave in Seattle. I keep LATE hours.Hidden Content
    '84 type "L" ,Auto ,daily driver. Dk blue.

  8. #6
    CelicaSupra.com Member Khlause's Avatar
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    The lock up converter should feel almost like a gear change when in 4th gear;

    With a multi-meter you can check to see if the solenoid is working.

    for the 83 car, I have a diagram for the ECT.

    If you are looking at the ECT plug {its should be a yellow plug} you can find this in the passenger side of the car, its in the panel to your right when sitting in the passenger side back seat.

    When looking at the plug from the conductor side (not the wire side) with the connector clip facing UP.

    Working left to right

    Top left row
    Pin 1 LOW (blue wire)
    Pin 2 SECOND (green wire)
    Pin 3 Brake light (green&Red wire)
    Pin 4 *empty*

    Top right row
    Pin 5 Throttle IDL (yellow & blue wire)
    Pin 6 Throttle 3 (White & red wire)
    Pin 7 Throttle 2 (Yellow & red wire)
    Pin 8 Throttle 1 (Red wire)

    Bottom right row
    Pin 9 Ground (brown wire)
    Pin 10 *empty*
    Pin 11 *empty*
    Pin 12 *empty*

    Center Bottom directly under clip
    Pin 13 12V Power (light green & black wire)

    Bottom left row
    Pin 14 *empty*
    Pin 15 Solenoid 3
    Pin 16 Solenoid 2
    Pin 17 Solenoid 1

    You should have 12 V at pin 13 when the ignition key is "on"
    Pin 9 is the ground

    Pin 17 to Pin 9 you should read about 15 ohms (solenoid 1) <automatic shifting solenoid 1
    Pin 16 to Pin 9 you should read about 15 ohms (solenoid 2) <automatic shifting solenoid 2
    Pin 15 to Pin 9 you should read about 15 ohms (solenoid 3) << Converter lockup clutch

    Pin 1 to pin 9 you should read 12V when you shift to "L"
    Pin 2 to pin 9 you should read 12V when you shift to "S"
    Pin 3 to pin 9 you should read 12V when you push the brake pedal down
    Pin 10 to pin 9 you should read 12V when you switch the shift mode button
    Pin 5 to pin 9 you should read 0V at idle and 5V when you slightly press the accelerator pedal a bit
    Pin 6,7,8 to pin 9 you should read 5V as you move the accelerator pedal though its range of motion.

    You can activate solenoids 1,2 and 3 by jumping power from pin 13 to pin 15,16,17.

    The factory ETC unlocks the converter under the following conditions.

    Accelerator pedal at Wide open
    Accelerator pedal closed
    When you use the brakes
    When you are in L, S or Reverse, and while the car is under "down shift" condition to accelerate.



    Hope that helps a little if you need the info later.

  9. #7
    CelicaSupra.com Member ddd228's Avatar
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    That info will be GOLD to those that need it!
    I just took a 100 mile trip and I was O.D. most of the way on I-5. On cruise control,part way.

    There are confusing test sequences in the TSRM: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=AT&P=18

    THANKS!!!!!
    Dave in Seattle. I keep LATE hours.Hidden Content
    '84 type "L" ,Auto ,daily driver. Dk blue.

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