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Thread: How to start your 2jzgte vvti!
03-01-2017, 09:35 PM #1
- Join Date
- Aug 2016
How to start your 2jzgte vvti!
I studied the 2jz gte vvti diagrams for a long time and figured out how to run them on the floor for testing and confirming that they do run. Before we get started I just want to state that I am not a professional. So this is a do at your own risk, if you just make sure and double check everything and make sure nothing is in the way when you go to run it you will be fine. I will offer all the knowledge I have in helping however my swap took a turn. I will be going stand alone and having a custom harness made to plug into the many modifications and extras I want. I was planning to use the factory harness so I have some knowledge on making it work in the car but it is limited. I only ran the engine on my garage floor, never in the car with the key. So let get to it!
There is a little more to this but its not as bad as some might think. First things first, inspect the harness make sure everything is plugged in nothing broken. There are two clips by all the body clips. One grey the other orange, they should be capped if they are not this might not work. What those are are shared power and shared ground. Those caps are just male terminals connected to metal sharing power, or ground to all those wires. These provide power or ground to many sensors if they are not capped your engine may not start at all. I had two harnesses one didnt have the caps so I used the caps from the other harness. Then make sure your engine has good compression and we are good to start.
This. Print it, I will be using this for the entire write up and it will be using the same numbers listed here.
I made sure my ecu was the non immobilizer ecu, part number on it is 89661-3A470. The immobilizer had another plug on the ecu (total of 6 on immobilizer ecu's) if you have an immobilizer ecu that link will help you get yours started, I can offer help and a second opinion but I did not have to worry about that on my start up.
Ecu plugs F59 and F60 probably didnt come with your engine, you can buy these from drift motion they are roughly 10$ each. but that is not needed for this. Because I was unsure what gear or how to tell what gear my transmission was in i removed it from the engine. This means we have to find the neutral safety switch and make it think its in neutral. to make it easier you can de-pin them from their clips and cut leads and use those to plug into the pins you need to hear that sweet 2jz sound. Its the cheapest and easiest way. You clean your harness up and gain leads to use to start the engine. Recalling off memory you will need roughly 10 or so to be safe. How you de-pin these connectors you pop up the lock, then insert a tiny pic into the front push the secondary lock up and pull the pin out the back. The picture shows what the lock is that you have to carefully pry.
After carefully poping that up as shown in those pictures the pic slides into the bigger slot ABOVE each pin you want to remove.NOTE the plugs in the pictures are upside down showing the bigger slot below the pins. when right side up the bigger slots are above the small pin slots. The small tiny slot is the pin itself so you do not want to jam a pick down there and ruin the pin. It takes time and practice but once you get it it takes seconds for each one.
We will start with the body plugs. looking your papers look for plug 90980-11527 its a white 10 pin plug on your body harness on one of the last pages if you printed the link or towards the bottom. this is plug BF2
Pin 6: Powers igniter and coil
Pin 7: Powers injectors
pin 8: starter motor relay
Pin 9:Main EFI switched power
All these connect to battery positive terminal.
this is how I did mine
Plug 90980-11710 BF3
Pin 9: Supplies battery power when ignition is in run and crank position.
Put this pin on the battery positive.
this will be done on the ecu. you will need terminal leads for these because the pins are so small.
Pin 1: BATT pin supply power to ecu
pin 7: +BM ETCS-i power
pin 8: +B2 supply switched power to ecu
Pin 9: Igsw supply power when ignition is on
pin 16: +B Power Ecu
Connect all these from pin F60 to battery positive(this is where those leads come into play these will be plugged directly into the ecu). When power is supplied to +BM (etcs-i power supply) there should be a humming or a buzzing sound coming from the throttle body. to test simply pull the throttle cable. If the butterfly opens up to WOT its done. Thats all that is needed to run the drive by wire system on this 2j. Its just powering that pin. thats it. the drive by wire system on this engine senses the demand from how much the cable is pulled then sends the signal to the ecu and the ecu opens the throttle body. This system also controls idle and idle ups with a/c just from powering one pin. If you choose to delete the ETCS-i throttle body you will need an iacv and run vaccum lines. Many stand alone ecus can control drive by wire and this is probably the most simple drive by wire i have ever seen. There is no sensor on the gas pedal its still controlled by the throttle cable. up to you when you swap to keep or delete this. when your done giving power it should look like this (ignore the two leads that are not connected).
Hunting down the neutral safety switch. Its on plug B2
Pin 13: N Neutral safety switch
This pin is energized when the transmission is in the N position. so this gets power as well. Connect it to the positive terminal. Simply clip this or put a new terminal into it and put it to the positive terminal.
At this point you should connect the battery to the starter. I used jumper cables and pinched the wires i needed to the positive terminal using the jumper clamps. The negative side I clamped next to where the negative wire is on the engine. Here are a few more pictures. If you have any issues starting and recheck all wires and locations. It helps to test fire the engine without giving it fuel. take a spark plug out and connect it to its coil and if your getting spark your injectors are also fireing because you wired them the same and you should be good to go.
Supply fuel by hooking up a fuel pump and running hose to engine and from engine for return and put terminals on positive and negative to run it.
Put a terminal on the starter solenoid and with the positive jumper cable on the big bolt (where your hot cable goes into a starter) once everything is given power take the lead from the starter solenoid and touch it to power to have the engine crank and start up and hear that 2jz music. Just make sure the ignitor is plugged in! I forgot to plug mine in and spent a bit of time figuring out why it wouldnt spark.
That is all there is to it! It has been a while i started my engine in October of last year. But going through all my papers I have and pictures that is how I did it.
Last edited by TcTravis; 03-01-2017 at 09:58 PM.
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