Which profile wheel weights fit the 1985 P-type manual trans 14x7 wheelS? - Page 2

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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4SFED View Post
    Sounds like it could be the first line in the latest Roadtrip sequel.
    Like Diogenes carrying his lamp everywhere looking for a human. You'd think I was looking for a muffler bearing, the way this has gone!

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  3. #12
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    Aaaaaand, the wheel weights arrived at O'Reilly and the jury has returned a verdict:

    FN profile wheel weights are correct. Perfect fit. No more leaky tires!!


  4. #13
    CelicaSupra.com Member drjim's Avatar
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    Well done!......

    The more you hang around the forum, the more you'll be amazed at the amount of arcane knowledge that appears here.

    Thank you helping to keep the tradition going!

    - Jim
    1985 5-speed "Ms. Swan"

    OH, What A Feeling!

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  6. #14
    CelicaSupra.com Member RedP85's Avatar
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    Detail hunter you say?!!

    I understand your effort for OEM look, but even the proper (FN! ) shape units will within a couple years generate corrosion with the wheel. And it will get worst with time. I spent lots of hours polishing my wheels and had the clip-on weights put on. Bad decision I tooked. When my tires needed replacement, I took off the weights, and had to spend again hours to clean/sand/polish the corrosion. Now I have stick ons, and the look of the wheels is 'pure'..... and shinny!
    -Jocelyn,
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  7. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by drjim View Post
    Well done!......

    The more you hang around the forum, the more you'll be amazed at the amount of arcane knowledge that appears here.

    Thank you helping to keep the tradition going!

    - Jim
    Well thanks for supporting my precision, Jim. There's a fine line between legitimate and random precision (Pink Floyd - "Shine On You Crazy Diamond). On this one, I had to be stubborn and fight against the tire shops' directed imprecision because, to me, having flat tires due to slow leaks and/or having weights ricochet off the wheel wells is a legitimate gripe and a safety hazard and not acceptable, no matter if the local shops confederate against my position.

  8. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedP85 View Post
    Detail hunter you say?!!

    I understand your effort for OEM look, but even the proper (FN! ) shape units will within a couple years generate corrosion with the wheel. And it will get worst with time. I spent lots of hours polishing my wheels and had the clip-on weights put on. Bad decision I tooked. When my tires needed replacement, I took off the weights, and had to spend again hours to clean/sand/polish the corrosion. Now I have stick ons, and the look of the wheels is 'pure'..... and shinny!
    Hmmm thanks for the insight!!

    My rims are in original, unrestored condition - not TOO bad. But I'm thinking of restoring them soon.

    So.... could you tell me where you found the corrosion? Was it underneath the body of the weight itself, or under the clip, or both?. I can understand how you would be upset at the corrosion after you worked so hard.

    The FN weights I got from O'Reilly (Part# FN020 and FN035) were very nicely coated lead - but the clip looks to be steel. I applied them to the rim carefully with a cushioned weight mallet so as not to crack the coating. I'm thinking that the weight itself won't corrode my rims, but maybe the steel clip will? Now I'm going to have to go out and look at the clip material. I wish I could have bought them from BADA because the customer service lady was so great, but O'Reilly didn't have BADA and I was in a hurry.

    To expand on the reason why I'm trying to avoid stick-ons, at least until rim restoration: With stick-ons you do have to know how to mount them, e.g. how far away from the rim mounting face to stick them. Otherwise, you won't get as good a balance. And down here I have so far found that they stick the stick-ons on just anywhere (as far as how much toward the inside or outside face of the rim) and don't re-check the balance. So that right there introduces dynamic error into the balance because it does matter how far apart you affix the inside and outside strip of sticky weights. By using the clip-on weights, the position is by definition fixed because the rim is the rim. It allows me to cut another layer of tire-shop error out of the mix. Not a huge amount, I agree, but a preventable amount.

    Yeah, I know I'm being picky, but BF Goodrich tires are not cheap and we have bad roads down here and I want it as good as I can. The reason I'm trying to get a very precise balance is that I have gotten the front suspension extremely tight with Toyota parts - and the only thing left unrestored is the rack, on a 160K car. There's just a very little slop, and at this point I don't want to adjust it because of the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" rule. But my feeling is that any imbalance will be amplified by any slack in the system, and so I am trying to find the most precise balancing I can, so as to get a good feel for how smooth the car "should" feel.

    Long explanation, I know. Short explanation: I am trying to squeeze as much human error out of the balancing process as possible. I'm not by definition a cynic, but I am by experience wary of allowing human error to cost me extra time and hassle and money.

  9. #17
    Founding Member pdupler's Avatar
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    What happens is that dirt and whatever get trapped between the weight and the rim and both chemical and mechanical processes cause the face of the rim underneath to deteriorate. BUT, that's the way they were done originally so kudos for keeping it original. So what if the next time you need a set of tires, say in many years from now, you have to polish the wheels where the previous weights were. Its not that big a deal. The only bad thing would be if the steel clip itself is not coated. Steel on aluminum in the presence of road or sea salt could set up galvanic corrosion and eat a tiny divot out of the rim that couldn't be polished out. But I think they're generally coated to prevent that.

    If you really want to get anal retentive, buy yourself a classic Corvette and try to restore it to NCRS Top Flight standard. Usually at swap meets, there's a vendor or two with buckets and buckets of vintage wheel weights from the 30s to the 70s. Wheel weights aren't worth a whole lot of points, but Corvette restorers will spend hours sorting through those buckets to find a correct matching set in the denominations they need and then restore them to look like new again.

    Somehow I doubt we'll ever have an NSRS equivalent, but I'd like to think that at least a few people care enough to go that far with their Supra restorations.
    Phil D.
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  10. #18
    CelicaSupra.com Member Khlause's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SupraScooby View Post
    Hey y'all, I'm going crazy on something simple & stupid but I can't seem to find the info anywhere. I'm kind of a rookie with the site, so maybe this info was available in the search engine but I couldn't find it.

    Can ANYONE please tell me which clip-on wheel weight type (profile) fits the 14x7 wheels for my manual trans 1985 P-type?

    I've been going round and round with the local tire shops and either the weights keep falling off at speed or the tires keep going flat because they keep throwing any old wrong weight on and the beads leak. They think I'm too picky and they want to use stick-on weights and be done with it, but I'd rather the clip-on type and it's starting to become really aggravating. I've already been banned from one shop because I brought my tires back too many times (because they were going flat!!!!! go figure).

    So I can't find on Google or anywhere else the correct weight type. I've narrowed it down (I think) to either "IAW" or "FN" or "EN." If I can find out which is the correct one, the latest shop WILL allow me to look at their bins and find the correct profile. But they don't know themselves, and they don't care, despite my buying two expensive sets of tires. (This is south Louisiana, and no one gives a d--n and there's no car culture but we all know how to cook and drink.)

    Choosing the wrong profile weight means that either the weight doesn't sit flush against the rim, or the clip doesn't fit inside correctly and holds the tire bead away from the rim so it goes flat. They threw some AL weights on today and they are visually totally wrong and there's a large gap.

    Much appreciated if anyone could shed light on this. I'm surprised that Google doesn't, but I've scoured it as well as I could but no dice...........
    Two problems you have now days.

    First 14" wheels are kinda rare excluding certain gas mileage eco cans.

    Second unless I am terribly wrong all the wheel weights you can purchase now in the US are made of iron or some other non-toxic material other than lead.


    The wheel weights used back in the 80's were all lead, and they were for the 14" diameter wheels (alloy clip on), and all the modern stuff is essentially iron or some amalgam of iron and other potmetals.

    As for the fitment, this is something you will most likely need to order from out of country or find the last of the last guys in the US that still have old lead wheel weights for alloy wheels in a 14" size.

    As far as the nomenclature and industry lingo involved with how they size these things; your guess is as good as mine. This is the best info I can give you, I very much wish you luck in finding them, and if you do find some you might seriously consider buying everything that supplier has in your wheel size for alloy wheels.

  11. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khlause View Post
    Two problems you have now days.

    First 14" wheels are kinda rare excluding certain gas mileage eco cans.

    Second unless I am terribly wrong all the wheel weights you can purchase now in the US are made of iron or some other non-toxic material other than lead.


    The wheel weights used back in the 80's were all lead, and they were for the 14" diameter wheels (alloy clip on), and all the modern stuff is essentially iron or some amalgam of iron and other potmetals.

    As for the fitment, this is something you will most likely need to order from out of country or find the last of the last guys in the US that still have old lead wheel weights for alloy wheels in a 14" size.

    As far as the nomenclature and industry lingo involved with how they size these things; your guess is as good as mine. This is the best info I can give you, I very much wish you luck in finding them, and if you do find some you might seriously consider buying everything that supplier has in your wheel size for alloy wheels.
    Khlase, you sure are right about how hard it is becoming to find 14" tires. So far I am still able to order the BF Goodrich in the stock P225/60R14 size that came on the P-type '85 wheels, but am having to wait up to a week for the tire shops to have them shipped in.

    Regarding the weights, to the best of my knowledge the lead weights are still legal in all states except California, Illinois, Maine, New York, Washington and Vermont.

    The coated lead/antimony FN-profile weights I ordered from O'Reilly (a box of 25) were very nicely done. If applied with cushioned wheel pliers so as not to crack the coating, I think they'll do nicely without corrosion. I like going with the lead because that's going to be the smallest weight, gram for gram, you can find (due to lead being denser that steel or zinc) and so will look better.

    A note I didn't make above is that the FN weight is the exact correct thickness, and so it fits the rim perfectly and doesn't stick out beyond it.

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