This is by NO MEANS done,needs blanks filled and finished etc.But,hopefully this will help.I'll work on it more later.
7MGTE General MKII Swap.
This write-up is the way I learned to do the swap.There are many differing opinions on several aspects of this swap.I'm not going into those details,just writing what I know personaly.This will basicaly be for a stock swap,with some performance talked about.
1st off,you need a complete 7mgte,with all of it's sensors intact.Must have....Intact engine harness,preferably with any plugs and all small electrics,that plug into it.Air Flow meter,ECU,HAC sensor if 87-8.Included should be the PS pump,and brackets,and A/C pump and bracket.The more complete the better,a running donor car is obviously best.
My basic list,in no particular order.
1.7mge clutch kit,preferably a performance unit.
2.ARP head stud kit. P/N 203-4202
3.Oil filter relocation kit. ford 5.0 PN depends on brand.
4.4 90* AN - 8,and 4 -8 AN adapter fittings. 8 ft 300psi hydrolic line.
5.Toyota T100 heat shield p/n 58151-34011
6.7mgte gasket set.
7.HKS or similar metal head gasket.
8.MKIII intercooler and all plumbing,or custom,either will work.
9.Custom A/C lines to mate MKII to 7mgte a/c compressor.
10.MSD tach adapter.P/N 8920
11.85 or newer 5mge oil pan,and new 85+ oil pump.
I usualy tear the engine down to a short block,inspect cylinder walls,and check bearing clearances.Basic short block is repair as needed.Pistons and rings,only if needed,or forged units are being installed.Bearings,very seldom do they need mains,I usualy replace rod bearings as they are cheap.
Block/head mating suface.Personaly,I clean it well,check it with a straight edge,and don't worry about too much,unless it's noticably in bad shape...ie...warped or pitted.In that case,that block gets set aside for a major build up,or just tossed.
Cylinder head.Pressure tested,and a light "dusting" surface job.I prefer to still be able to make out the old gasket marks,barely.Then,the valves get hand lapped in and new seals installed.I recomend for most,to just have the machine shop do a valve job.I just prefer to do my own work.
Some where about this time,I relocate the dipstick to the 5m location.Starting with a small pilot hole,then drill to size of DS."have to get size" Then plugging the old hole with an allen type pipe plug.
Next would be the rear aluminum timing cover "frt of engine" and all related seals.Then time for the Oil Pump.Rotate the crank a few times,or until it touches the pump housing,or banjo portion of the tube.Some touch,some don't.Remove,and grind as necesary,until crak clears everything.Put the pan on and flip it over.
Whether using a MHG or a stocker,I spray the gasket with Permatex copper gasket spray.This helps out with the block/head surface imperfections,and has yet to fail me in 30years of building various engines.
Cylinder head instalation.Personaly,I use a metal gasket,usualy 1.2mm by HKS,along with ARP head studs.1st off,remove the cams if not already out,they just get in way.Next,istall the washers,in there respective spot,NOW.You'll thank me later.Make sure the washers go down the studs,with the head.It takes a bit of patience,but it's the only way they go in on most heads.Torque to ARP spec,IIRC 95ft#.
If usinf a stock HG ,torque to 65-70ft lbs,NOT the 58 suggested by the TSRM.For stock application/boost,this will last as long or longer than the rest of the engine.
The rest of the basic engine asembly,is covered in any Supra manual,so I not going into detail on that.
Oil filter adapter..........If using the stock 7mgte 90* housing,you will need to rotate it counter-clockwise,OFF it's dowel pin.Torqueing it down,Just to the left of the pin,will allow clearance foe the motor mounts.Check the BGB for torque spec on the bolt holding the 90.IIRC "book in the shop" it's 14 or 17ft lbs.THIS IS CRITICAL !!! If you over torque this bolt,you WILL crack the bung in the block "ask me how I know".
If deleting the stock 90,I have found it best to rob the oil filter "bolt" from the 5m,then add the 5.0 in/out adapter,and then position the AN fittings and oil lines.
Motor mounts...use the stock MKII units,holes are in the block,forward position.For the turbo brace,which now has no place to go,get an early MKIII pass mount,block portion.Angle cut the mount,so as to leave the hole for the turbo brace,bolt it behind the mkii mounts,at stock mkiii location.
While the engine is out of the car,time to clean things up a bit.Personaly,I lose the stock washer tank and pump set-up...don't use headlite washers anyway.I also toss the big friggin carbon canister the mkii comes with,and replace it with one from an 87-91 4 cyl camry.I also relocate it to where the Waher system was.The is 1 bolt hole,on thew inner fender,and a hole for the "breather" tube on the camry unit to go through.I usualky drill a hole for the second screw,a bit oversize,as I never seem to get the measurement dead on For W/S washer,I get a bag from the rear of an 84-9 4-runner,build an extension harness,and mount the bag on the drivers shock tower.
I also,in the past have mounted the oil filter relocation adapter,in the area of the washer tank,on the pass. shock tower.Makes getting the filter off a piece of cake.I'll be changing this on Ophir's car,and my own,as the larger turbos generate a bit more heat in that area,than I'm happy with :lol:
New loaction to be posted,when I find a spot I REALLY like.Probably similar to Helmsman's install,by the pass. head light.
7MGTE General MKII Swap.
This write-up is the way I learned to do the swap.There are many differing opinions on several aspects of this swap.I'm not going into those details,just writing what I know personaly.This will basicaly be for a stock swap,with some performance talked about.
1st off,you need a complete 7mgte,with all of it's sensors intact.Must have....Intact engine harness,preferably with any plugs and all small electrics,that plug into it.Air Flow meter,ECU,HAC sensor if 87-8.Included should be the PS pump,and brackets,and A/C pump and bracket.The more complete the better,a running donor car is obviously best.
My basic list,in no particular order.
1.7mge clutch kit,preferably a performance unit.
2.ARP head stud kit. P/N 203-4202
3.Oil filter relocation kit. ford 5.0 PN depends on brand.
4.4 90* AN - 8,and 4 -8 AN adapter fittings. 8 ft 300psi hydrolic line.
5.Toyota T100 heat shield p/n 58151-34011
6.7mgte gasket set.
7.HKS or similar metal head gasket.
8.MKIII intercooler and all plumbing,or custom,either will work.
9.Custom A/C lines to mate MKII to 7mgte a/c compressor.
10.MSD tach adapter.P/N 8920
11.85 or newer 5mge oil pan,and new 85+ oil pump.
I usualy tear the engine down to a short block,inspect cylinder walls,and check bearing clearances.Basic short block is repair as needed.Pistons and rings,only if needed,or forged units are being installed.Bearings,very seldom do they need mains,I usualy replace rod bearings as they are cheap.
Block/head mating suface.Personaly,I clean it well,check it with a straight edge,and don't worry about too much,unless it's noticably in bad shape...ie...warped or pitted.In that case,that block gets set aside for a major build up,or just tossed.
Cylinder head.Pressure tested,and a light "dusting" surface job.I prefer to still be able to make out the old gasket marks,barely.Then,the valves get hand lapped in and new seals installed.I recomend for most,to just have the machine shop do a valve job.I just prefer to do my own work.
Some where about this time,I relocate the dipstick to the 5m location.Starting with a small pilot hole,then drill to size of DS."have to get size" Then plugging the old hole with an allen type pipe plug.
Next would be the rear aluminum timing cover "frt of engine" and all related seals.Then time for the Oil Pump.Rotate the crank a few times,or until it touches the pump housing,or banjo portion of the tube.Some touch,some don't.Remove,and grind as necesary,until crak clears everything.Put the pan on and flip it over.
Whether using a MHG or a stocker,I spray the gasket with Permatex copper gasket spray.This helps out with the block/head surface imperfections,and has yet to fail me in 30years of building various engines.
Cylinder head instalation.Personaly,I use a metal gasket,usualy 1.2mm by HKS,along with ARP head studs.1st off,remove the cams if not already out,they just get in way.Next,istall the washers,in there respective spot,NOW.You'll thank me later.Make sure the washers go down the studs,with the head.It takes a bit of patience,but it's the only way they go in on most heads.Torque to ARP spec,IIRC 95ft#.
If usinf a stock HG ,torque to 65-70ft lbs,NOT the 58 suggested by the TSRM.For stock application/boost,this will last as long or longer than the rest of the engine.
The rest of the basic engine asembly,is covered in any Supra manual,so I not going into detail on that.
Oil filter adapter..........If using the stock 7mgte 90* housing,you will need to rotate it counter-clockwise,OFF it's dowel pin.Torqueing it down,Just to the left of the pin,will allow clearance foe the motor mounts.Check the BGB for torque spec on the bolt holding the 90.IIRC "book in the shop" it's 14 or 17ft lbs.THIS IS CRITICAL !!! If you over torque this bolt,you WILL crack the bung in the block "ask me how I know".
If deleting the stock 90,I have found it best to rob the oil filter "bolt" from the 5m,then add the 5.0 in/out adapter,and then position the AN fittings and oil lines.
Motor mounts...use the stock MKII units,holes are in the block,forward position.For the turbo brace,which now has no place to go,get an early MKIII pass mount,block portion.Angle cut the mount,so as to leave the hole for the turbo brace,bolt it behind the mkii mounts,at stock mkiii location.
While the engine is out of the car,time to clean things up a bit.Personaly,I lose the stock washer tank and pump set-up...don't use headlite washers anyway.I also toss the big friggin carbon canister the mkii comes with,and replace it with one from an 87-91 4 cyl camry.I also relocate it to where the Waher system was.The is 1 bolt hole,on thew inner fender,and a hole for the "breather" tube on the camry unit to go through.I usualky drill a hole for the second screw,a bit oversize,as I never seem to get the measurement dead on For W/S washer,I get a bag from the rear of an 84-9 4-runner,build an extension harness,and mount the bag on the drivers shock tower.
I also,in the past have mounted the oil filter relocation adapter,in the area of the washer tank,on the pass. shock tower.Makes getting the filter off a piece of cake.I'll be changing this on Ophir's car,and my own,as the larger turbos generate a bit more heat in that area,than I'm happy with :lol:
New loaction to be posted,when I find a spot I REALLY like.Probably similar to Helmsman's install,by the pass. head light.