Results 11 to 20 of 86
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04-26-2005, 02:04 PM #11
That Looks great! I have to polish my rims some time with 400 grit paper (again), I still couldn't get the mirror shine

Good on you! It's all worth it...
Cheers.
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04-26-2005, 02:31 PM #12
WOW, after seeing the step by step pics all winter long it is finally done
Good job bro. Now go take that sonnamabish out for a spin
Originally Posted by karaki
85 Jet Black 5spd
85 Jet Black 5spd

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04-26-2005, 02:41 PM #13
Good job dood!
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04-26-2005, 02:52 PM #14
Wow! What a difference! Nice, thorough job on that engine bay.
Definately should take that to SILV.
-Keith- '84 P-type, black w/ maroon leather, 5-speed R.I.P.
- Fully Restored '85 as of Summer '05
Phil's da man!
- P&P head, rebuilt top-end, Crower Cams, Tuned AFM, RC intake, RC filter, coated PS headers,
2.25 Magnaflow catback, LJM strut bar, TSC rear tower brace, Redline Fluids, Toyota Red Coolant, + alot of TLC.

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04-26-2005, 04:08 PM #15
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04-26-2005, 05:04 PM #16Thats because your using 400grit. Start with that, then work your way up to about a 1000 or 1200. Then polish and shield your eyes
Originally Posted by ZZT231
Black 86 mk2 Project Car
Terry's 82 Auto DD all original 5m 600k km KING
New SDR 86 mk2 Daily User, Highway Cruiser AND Parking Lot Abuser in the works!
Have an 85/86 Double Spoiler? Help Raptor's Double Wing Spoiler Reproduction Seal Kit become a reality!
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04-26-2005, 05:06 PM #17
ok, i'm going to get more sand paper right now, and some clearcoat, already have black paint.
now i know what to do with that extra p/s pump.
My extra valve covers i'm going to be lazy and get powder coated
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04-26-2005, 05:34 PM #18
Originally Posted by Supra_devil
after seeing how much regular enamel chips on my valve covers, just from regular work on the engine, im gonna go the powder coat way too on my spare set. i jsut wish i had the paitence that tireshredder has so i could do my spare wheels like that too
DOWNLOAD THE MODIFIED TSRM BY CLICKING HERE!
"May the fleas of a thousand camels infest the crotch of the person who screws up your day and may their arms be too short to scratch"
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04-26-2005, 10:15 PM #19
Thanks for the kind words of encouragment everybody. This is a great place to get support and advice from such great and like-minded people. Such compliments make it that much more worthwile - to know the work is recognized is a great feeling...
I may be 17 but I assure you, the supra disease has festered for a few years before this and I am now well progressed in it. The more I do, the larger the list seems to get! I want to keep this car for a very long time and if things go my way (and they will, or people will die) I'll be driving a mk2 until I turn into fertalizer.
Due to the interest in the P/S pump here is what I did:
- Removed pump and reservoir (duh)
- Cleaned with castrol superclean on the outside.
- Clean inside
The screen in the bottom had a good 1/8th inch of crap in it (one day the pump squealed for 30 seconds due to this I believe). Spent a few hours letting it sit with superclean on the inside to eat away at it using some rubber I found to plug the bottom fittings. I then scraped it with a screwdriver and shook it. Eventually, it was clean.
- I rinsed and shook repeatedly with water to remove the super clean. Then repeated many times using denatured alcohol (bought a jug at the drug store) to remove the water so it won't rust.
- Sanding Begins
wetsanded with 320, 400, 600 and 1500. Some dish soap in your water works great for sanding. I noticed it kept the tooth longer on the paper and got a better finish because it suspended the steel filings (or aluminum) particles in the water - keeps the surface clean. Always go 90 degrees to the previous step so you can tell when you have sanded enough (scratches from previous step gone). This goes the same for polishing.
1500 probably wasn't necessary but this was my first polishing job so I wanted to try some things out and experiment.
- used tiny buff wheels that came with the dremel and loaded one up with black. I then cleaned using super clean again (superclean is harsh and works the best since the compund is greasy - there will always be some left on the part, even if you can't see it. Super Clean was not used on the wheels because it doesn't like aluminum... but safe for the bare steel. Then it was wiped with acetone and dried. You want to prevent contamination of previous steps at all costs. Keep the compunds and buffs in seperate plastic bags, well away from the work area (stuff gets everywhere)
- repeat using brown tripoli and white rouge compounds. I used a felt wheel for the white compound, spiral sewn for the black and brown.
- degrease thoroughly, mask and throw some clear on it.
- Re-installed the pump, flushed and bled per TSRM instructions. I used Mobil 1 synthetic ATF
Hope the clears some things up,
SteveBlack 7M-GE 84 P-type Hardtop

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05-02-2005, 07:15 PM #20
dude, that looks freaking amazing.... been talking to you on messenger for ages, but its great to see it all done.
now take her for a cruise to buy some camera batteries and get a few pics
- the Bentley Continental GT...at 1600 rpm it makes more torque than an entire production run of hondas
- "Drifting...isn't that what homeless people do?"
- Ah VTEC. All the lag, none of the turbo. It's like waiting for bad sex
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