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Starting and running issues

65K views 92 replies 47 participants last post by  little-red-supr 
#1 · (Edited)
Please note: some common sense is required in purchasing and taking care of a 20 year old car.

obvious things to change 1st to insure proper running order:
spark plugs ($8-15)
plug wires ($17-70)
distributor cap ($8-15)
rotor ($3-5)
fuel filter ($14-20)
air filter ($6-60)


1. if you're just buying a car that has sat for some time, please be prepared for something to go wrong. most other cars' engines will lock up after sitting for awhile, be greatful that Toyota engines seem to have a resistance to that (for the most part).

2. car won't start. symptom: no noise, or clicking or grinding.
a)check battery connections... if the terminals are corroded, clean them or replace them. make sure the wires aren't chewed to hell and that the body ground is there and secure. also make sure you have a good battery.
refer to this thread here:
http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21051
b)check fuses. all of them.
c)check starter... are all the wires there? are they on good and tight?
You can always directly supply 12volts and see if the starter turns over, but if you're clueless about how to do this, you might not want to try it at the risk of shocking yourself. Take the car to someone who can check it, or remove the starter and take it to AutoZone/AdvanceAuto whatever. (obviously disconnect the battery first)

3. car won't start but turns over fine.
a)engine needs spark to run, you must determine if it's getting any before continuing. take coil wire and hold it to a metal point on the car (with a well insulated tool or you WILL get the shock of your life).
_______________________________
if you're getting spark out of the coil, but not out of your spark plug wires:
>check dizzy cap for bad terminals
>check rotor
>check plug wires
_______________________________
No spark condition:
>check all fuses and relays. (especially EFI and IGN)
>check ground wires (engine block, body, intake, etc.)
>make sure AFM is plugged in
>try pulling engine codes
refer to this thread here:
http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20822
>ignition coils are relatively easy to replace, not sure how to test one
>pray it's not your ignitor, those babies are $400+
_______________________________
No fuel condition:
>same as above
>spray carb/fuel injection cleaner in the intake and see if she tries to start
>try jumpering out the yellow connector by the AFM. With the ignition key on, put your head towards the drivers side firewall, over the intake. After a few seconds you should hear fuel running through the lines. If you hear this, it rules out the fuel pump.
>fuel filter is one of the most common problems to cause a no start, engine sputtering or faltering condition. please change routinely.
>fuel pumps don't offen fail, HOWEVER, most of these cars are on their original pump, so it is common for them to crap out now. YOU MUST REMEMBER to prime the fuel pump before trying to start the car, or you'll get air in the lines and possibly damage the new pump. (priming = turning the key off and on for a few minutes, letting the pump run and turn off before starting)
____________________________

engine then should run, unless you're way out of time. please do a little searching on the subject, and/or refer here:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM_MKII/in/IN_001.html


4. car won't start and turns over fast
a) pull upper timing cover, the timing belt either broke or got loose. do not panic, these are non-interference engines (they won't smash valves and pistons)




I'm sure I'm missing a bunch of things, but it's only 9am and I'm half awake, lol.
 
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#3 ·
I know where you're coming from on this. We've had some increasingly frustrating long-distance troubleshooting lately. I think you might should get even more basic. I swear there are people around here that don't know what 'engine turns over' means.
 
#4 ·
4SFED said:
I know where you're coming from on this. We've had some increasingly frustrating long-distance troubleshooting lately. I think you might should get even more basic. I swear there are people around here that don't know what 'engine turns over' means.

LOL should I put: engine won't start but makes a "whirr, whirr, whirr, whirr, whirr" noise


:hahano:
 
#5 ·
Actually, why don't you link the actual sounds. Get people to contribute them as they have problems. Then we'll know for sure whether the whir whir sounds like a mixmaster in the kitchen on chop and grind or a cement mixer with a load of gravel. Having gone through the pain of two timing belts improperly installed (they didn't replace the tensioner) I know what you're describing...
 
#6 ·
Dammit Tanya..why do you always post things that are awesome?...I think though with all your previous experience with your other rides you definately are a engine SME(subject matter expert).If I had an engine problem..id hope that you had a shop 'cause it would be headed your way!
 
#8 ·
Just quit running

Thanks for the great post. Looks like I have a good list to follow for trouble shooting. I was shifting from 1st to 2nd...Car just lost power. Turns over fine. Looks like maybe no spark at plugs? Haven't really taken a good look yet.
I had just had the passive alarm system and remote start disabled. Thought at first that may have had somethingn to do with it. Someone put remote start on a stick shift. Not a good idea.
Thanks again for really great information.

Bill
Sherwood OR
 
#9 ·
bills said:
.... Someone put remote start on a stick shift. Not a good idea.
...
Bill
Sherwood OR
As long as you always put it in neutral and apply the parking break its OK...

<--- who has a remote start on manual car

will
 
#12 ·
hello Tanya,

I've been trying to figure out what can be wrong with my car. The cars starts and runs but only for a moment. I've changed the fuel pump, filter, temp sensor, changed air flow meter, and throttle postion sensor. It is still giving me the problem of not wanting to keep running. I followed the test in the manual and still nothing. The thing is giving me 23 32 codes indicating the air temp and air flow meter. Is there anything that Im missing, is there a relay that can be the problem? HELP Please
 
#14 ·
Well I went back to fool with the car some more. I so happened to spray cab cleaner in and the car started, then stopped. I had my brother spray some more and kept sprying, it ran like it did before all of this. Its getting fuel, the fuel pump is new and working, new filter. It could be a relay, could it be the circut opening relay or the EFI main relays.They're in the engine compartment fuse box right?
 
#15 ·
Yes the relays are in the black box under the hood.


It can't be getting fuel if it's starting with carb cleaner. Somehow it's not getting to the injectors. Check to hear those relays click. Also, there's a yellow check connector by the AFM, use a paperclip or something to jumper it out, turn the key to ON and put your head near the intake manifold in the back, you should hear fuel going through the return line. If no noise, I would listen under the gas tank for humming, sound of the pump actually running.
 
#21 ·
the car starts but it just dosen't keep running, it's like the cold start injector is spitting but the other six aren't. The codes are comming up with 23 air temp, 32 flow meter, they're one unit. I'll change the relays and see what happends...

p.s.Thanks for the pictures, huge help....
 
#23 ·
Good point, Tanya! The 82 AFM is not only mechanically different than the rest, but it's also different electronically and therefore not compatible with later model engine harness wiring.

If you are indeed using a 82 AFM in your 82 MKII, try disconnecting the electrical connector on the AFM and look closely at the connector on the wire harness to see if any of the electrical contacts in the connector have been pushed back into the rubber boot and not making connection with the connector socket on the AFM.
 
#24 ·
I made sure to use 85, 86 AFM. I wasn't sure what other years would work....

I jumped the EFI relay and still nothing. The codes are 23,32 air temp and air flow meter. The air temp is inside of the AFM unit.
If there was a clog in the fuel line these codes wouldn't come up, right? The weird thing is when this started I didn't mess with the engine at all, just the interior. I took everything out to recondition.
 
#27 ·
You know the water temp sensor was bad and tested bad, no ohms reading, code 22,once fixed code went away. The fuse popped for the ING, code 14, fixed it and code went away. I tested the AFM, ohms reading are within specs, still getting codes 23,32, could the AFM still be bad?
 
#29 ·
Well I found what the problem was. When I was putting on some bubble fender flares on the car I hit the E2 wire going from the ECU to the AFM. The wiring harness was tucked up in the ffront fender and when I drilled a hole for the rivets, I hit it. The Damb drill bit was the exact size of the wire, sliced it clean.
"If I didn't have bad luck, I wouldn't have any luck at all."

Thanks for all the help, thank you.
 
#30 ·
I seem to have the same problem.. the car is starting but dying after 2 seconds.
It is getting fuel and were pretty sure its the afm .. followed the link to "http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...2/default.aspx" and found the wiring diagrams we can use to find otu if I have a faulty afm. ne question though, I have an 83 MA61, is there a huge difference in wiring etween teh 83 & the 86 the manual talks about?
 
#31 ·
I have a starting problem too. Periodically, the solinoid would kick, but the starter would fail to turn. Then, for some reason...perhapse an hour later it would start right up. I knocked on the starter a few times to get it to work (99% effective on my chevy's just before time to change the starter) and it dosent work. Push starting this little car is getting tiresome so I bought a new starter for it. I was singing praises about this wonderful little 5mge...untill I started to try to remove the starter. What nit wit little Japanese twit decided to use a nut and bolt configuration on this thing?! If it were the typical 2 bolt only,(no nut) I'd have been done with this hours ago. I have large hands, so my temper is flaring trying to remove the top bolt and nut. After this endevor is over, Ill prolly drop the 327 in my firebird in my supra just to make it easier to work on...not to mention Im sure 400hp in that little car would be insanely fun. = )
 
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