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  1. #51
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Southern MD
    Posts
    783
    you can buy smaller RCA's, talk to Robert at 935. he's forming a buy for some now.
    - Black 85 P-Type 7M-GTE Project
    - 01 Dakota CC 4x4 4.7L 5spd, my DD
    - 06 4Runner Sport 4wd v6

  2. #52
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Quebec,Canada
    Posts
    91
    No worry about running hard on it as the car might not run at all for at least 2 month (1UZ). As for cutting the RCA's I have acces to a machine shop. It should only take few minutes to modify.

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    new zealand
    Posts
    4
    Whats the brake pedal travel like after going from single piston calipers to four piston? Just wondering coz im gona be doing a similar upgrade but using Brembos off a Evo VI & have heard of the brake pedal just going straight to the floor when changing to multi piston calipers & using the standard master cylinder in alot of cars

  4. #54
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    bretagne the BZH land in france
    Posts
    721
    just a little update concerning the rear

    the oem rotor have an hole to adjust the e-brake system,so i make an hole in the same place and use the oem parts




    like this i can adjust the e-brake system exactly like on the oem rotor
    hope it help
    FUN IS NOT ON STRAIGHT ROAD
    carbon and fiberglass parts to fight vs rust:
    http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/sh...rts&highlight=

    85 WHITE P-type XX clone , 5MGE ,with Rota RB in 17.....
    84 P-type ,completely gutted ,7mgte FOR TRACK USE ONLY!!

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Brooklyn, NY
    Posts
    6
    nice pics and explanation. question: can my 14" rims fit with the bigbrake and wats the part # for the caliper and bracket

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Ft. Lauderdale
    Posts
    6,255
    Quote Originally Posted by marq11 View Post
    can my 14" rims fit with the bigbrake and wats the part # for the caliper and bracket
    No they can't
    '85 P-Type 1J "The Torqueless Wonder"
    557whp/449wtq@25psi on 93 octane
    Precision 6266SP CEA

    Sponsored By

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Phoenix
    Posts
    14
    Great write up. Love the trick to get the rotors off of the hub assembly. Wish I tried that before I gave up replacing my rotors this weekend. Oh well, I'll try again next week now.

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Tigard, OR
    Posts
    2,661
    Quote Originally Posted by pituala View Post
    I have a question about the directionality of the rotors. When looking at the rotor, which way should the vents face? Looking at your pics, it looks like yours point towards the rear of the car (when turning in the forward direction, air would be pulled in from the center of the rotor and blown out from the cooling fins/vents at the outer edge of the rotor), or should they face forward (so when turning in the forward direction air is pulled from the outer edge of the rotor towards the center of the rotor)?????
    For the official record, assuming this is the front left wheel (which I can tell because I can see the tension rod), then this hub & rotor assembly IS setup correctly.

    It is nigh on impossible to get them to work the other way (by "forcing in air from the outside in").

    Remember your wheels and rotors are in motion. Think of centrifugal force. Remember the merry go round as a kid? The faster you went the harder it tried to fling you off, away from the axis of rotation? Same applies here, just think of turbo chargers, air goes INTO the middle, and comes OUT the Edges.

    The rotor vanes if straight, doesn't matter. The rotor vanes if SWEPT need to sweep behind, or lag behind the hubs center when spun in the direction of normal rotation.

    This picture below is correct for the front left of the car (and would be for the back left as well)

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    SoCali
    Posts
    118
    I know I am bringing this thread back from the dead, but I have a Jim King BBK, both front and rear, en route from Raptor Racing. I have searched but cannot find any significant discussion of this kit and the OEM brake master. Since, as I understand it, total pad surface area has a direct impact on brake feel and effectiveness, I am wondering if anyone has any pad surface area data comparing the OEM pads to the Wilwood Dynalite pads. Also, if anyone has installed the MKIII brake master as part of the Jim King BBK upgrade, I would very much like to hear how that worked out. Any and all input is greatly appreciated.
    1985 Toyota P-Type MKII Celica Supra 5MT
    1994 Toyota MKIV Supra 6MT; 1995 Toyota MKIV Supra 6MT
    2006 Toyota 4Runner Limited V8
    2007 Lexus IS-350
    2010 Lexus IS-F

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Canyon Country California LA
    Posts
    3,208
    Use a master cylinder from a 92-95 4runner it's a 100% direct bolt in and has a larger bore as needed to match the larger calipers. This is what I run wih the same BBK kit on my car.

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