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Thread: 5m-ge teardown Questions
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08-29-2007, 02:41 AM #1
5m-ge teardown Questions
So i tore down the 5mge in the past two days but i got a bunch done.
I started with taking off the Efi and cleaning all the mating surfaces which came out nice..I noticed that there is a lot of work that could be done there such as some porting & polishing because there are some rigid areas and rough surfaces.
But anyway moving on I tore the head off so that i could inspect the pistons and bottom of head what I noticed is that there was a thin layer of carbon deposits on the piston but the head dome & valves are caked with carbon a lot more then the pistons...Looking down in the cyclinders the wear patern is some what really good w/ nice hatch marks. And the carbon on top of the pistons was easily scrubbed off with a sponge. and they look really new...
I have sent my injectors off to witch hunter and will be seeing them later in the week.
I am going to send my head off to get resurfaced at a machine shop but what i need to know is should i have some porting done ? It is an 82 all the runners are round in shape. I am looking for more torque numbers than horse power..I believe a little smoothing out in the head would give it a lil more and my other thought was to get bigger valves
What else should i be looking at I am not looking to go turbo or anything like that more n/a than anything else..I have the motor pretty much opened so while im down there what else? Rings? Valvetrain?
Ill try to get some pics up when i find a camera that works
Any thoughts would be helpful.
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08-29-2007, 11:57 AM #2
84yota,
If you see carbon deposits on the top of the rings, that would be burnt oil, so i recommend that you replace the rings, and also the main and rod bearings since you tore the engine down, then get the machine shop to hone the cylinder walls. You should check the valvetrain and components, make sure all the valves are clean (especially the inner side) and make sure that they close all the way and open right. You can also bleed the lash adjusters too, but make sure each one stays in the correct order, and with its respective rocker arm, careful, they can fall off easy after the cam housing is off... goodluck with the project!In the process...
1984 Toyota Celica Supra - SOLD!
2003 Toyota Corolla - Rebuilt & SOLD!
1988 Toyota Supra N/A - Project Car
1993 Toyota Corolla DX - Daily driver
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08-29-2007, 05:50 PM #3
If it still has good cross hatching, Dont hone it!!
86 SDR-"Shuttlecraft" 16" Drag dr-27 wheels, Coilover/AGX/Celica Arms front, Camber Mod/Cut Springs rear, Poly Bushings all around, Whiteline sway bars, 12" Homemade bbk front and rear, Weir Diff bushing, Pacesetter with custom RABID CHIMP mandrel bent 2.5 with Flowmaster resonator, short shifter, 5m-GZE using upgraded sc-14 Toyota supercharger, with Custom RABID CHIMP piping..
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08-29-2007, 05:52 PM #4
CelicaSupra.com Member
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^^I agree....when I pulled my 200k plus head off...cross hatches were still there.
I'd consider it a personal favor if you did not show up at the meet. you can just disappear.
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08-29-2007, 06:17 PM #5
You guys, i was just explaining that if the cylinder walls were shiny then i recommend that it gets honed, if it still has the crosshatches, then its still good.
In the process...
1984 Toyota Celica Supra - SOLD!
2003 Toyota Corolla - Rebuilt & SOLD!
1988 Toyota Supra N/A - Project Car
1993 Toyota Corolla DX - Daily driver
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08-29-2007, 06:37 PM #6
Also be careful in your choice of Machine shop, a lot of relatively common procedures with other engines will cause you problems with 5M. Examples include but are not limited to: Head Decking, Cylinder Honing, Valve Jobs. Good Luck!
86 SDR-"Shuttlecraft" 16" Drag dr-27 wheels, Coilover/AGX/Celica Arms front, Camber Mod/Cut Springs rear, Poly Bushings all around, Whiteline sway bars, 12" Homemade bbk front and rear, Weir Diff bushing, Pacesetter with custom RABID CHIMP mandrel bent 2.5 with Flowmaster resonator, short shifter, 5m-GZE using upgraded sc-14 Toyota supercharger, with Custom RABID CHIMP piping..
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08-30-2007, 04:52 AM #7
reply
since it still has pretty good crosshatching should i just change out the rings and main bearings getting the rering kit from rpm machine? Im going to try to get some pics of the walls but the are looking good with crosshatching for 166,XXXmiles motor is relatively clean inside not much for sludge..still thinking of cleaning it out would a hot tank be bad for it and what about my head should i just keep it all standard valves, topline oem replacements or enlarged ones? would enlarging the valves effect the way its going to idle/timing? the bore seems pretty good at around 82.77mm roughly all around (what is the stock bore out of factory???)
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08-30-2007, 05:16 AM #8
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08-30-2007, 08:51 AM #9
No what CarFreek was saying is becareful which machine shop you use. They are not all the same. Find a good reputable machine shop to use not a fly by night operation. Its like shopping for a car some are good some are not so good
Larry R.
1984 L-Type 2nd owner. Auto to 5-speed. Rabid Chimp 6mge with SPEC aluminum flywheel and SPEC stage 2 clutch. Ported and polished head and intake. Rabid Chimp cone air filter and intake pipe. Raptor Racing 6 into 1 header, test pipe and cat back 2.5 exhaust system. Dobinson standard height springs. KYB gr2 struts and shocks. 1985 blue P-Type interior.
2005 Matrix
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08-30-2007, 09:22 PM #10
Best to find one familiar with 5m. Its ok to surface, but you can take too much off(cam timing can be affected by it). Its ok to go with os valves, sounds like you already know complications from that. Ive seen crosshatching still good at 200,000+. Just do like you said, give it a very light pattern.
86 SDR-"Shuttlecraft" 16" Drag dr-27 wheels, Coilover/AGX/Celica Arms front, Camber Mod/Cut Springs rear, Poly Bushings all around, Whiteline sway bars, 12" Homemade bbk front and rear, Weir Diff bushing, Pacesetter with custom RABID CHIMP mandrel bent 2.5 with Flowmaster resonator, short shifter, 5m-GZE using upgraded sc-14 Toyota supercharger, with Custom RABID CHIMP piping..
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