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Rear Wheel Bearing Job

15K views 30 replies 19 participants last post by  Don L. 
#1 ·
I just had the rear wheel bearings done at Toyota.
Normally, I like to do repairs in my own garage, but I counted no less than 19 SSTs (Special Service Tools) I didn't have in the RA (Rear Axle) SST section.

Very expensive job - List price $463 parts, $262.50 labor

Here is an exploded diagram:



Parts List:
(2) 90179-20061 Nut $12.80 $25.60
(2) 90311-38009 Seal, Type $11.32 $22.64
(2) 90366-30001 Bearing, RT $47.47 $94.94
(2) 42413-22010 Spacer, RR $72.85 $145.70
(2) 90368-34083-77 Bearing, RT $70.15 $140.30
(2) 90311-48001 Seal, Type $16.50 $33.00



I didn't need the paper gaskets in the center of the picture, but they were only $3.86.

My rear axle shafts ended up being frozen in place - even the slide hammer SST did not budge them. And, I found out that the Toyota service bays do not have a torch around - gas canisters not allowed. So the master tech brought his own in from home to complete the job :rolleyes: . This is a 50? bay service department that does on 75-100 service jobs a day.

Some notes on the car - 1984 L type Auto, 162,000 miles, was a California car so no rust on the undercarriage. It was the first time the rear wheel bearings had been serviced.

Ken
 
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#2 ·
wow... that's one pricey jorb there ken!

Will be doing the rear wheel bearings on the 85 soon (260k+ and climbing on original bearings/races), neighbor has all the tools to put the bearings and races in. I just get the joy of pulling it all apart.
 
#3 ·
Ditto on that... It's on my list of this to do to get the Supra up to snuff. I've got access to a wide selection of tools and machines to do the work but it's fun none-the-less!
 
#5 ·
Pretty cool you got to be on site for the job.
That is pretty pricey for the parts... Nothing we can skimp on except the gasket things?

What is that to the right of the paper gaskets? Above the first red box?
 
#7 ·
yah that job sucks - i used a 50 ton press to get the axles out since i had the arms out of the car
 
#8 ·
I just replaced the axel bearings in the drivers side (my passender side) just a week ago. I had the whole swing arm out of the car. So chuck it in the press to pop the axel out. Punch out the seals, bearing cups, clean up.

Buy bearing kit which included both bearings and seals for AU$65. Made a couple thin shims out of copper for the big spacer/crush tube i reused (toyota wanted $80 for a new one, pfft stuff that). Put new bearing cups in swing arm. Pack bearings full of grease, pack swing arm with grease. Put bearings in swing arm then seals, put axel into swing arm. Use a big G-clamp to press it in (too awkard for big press), reuse old nut and check for play and turning resistance, adjust if needed and ya done!

Total cost $65 + HTB grease i had in the shed already. Plus a couple weeks becuase i had to get the face machined ($50) cuss there was .4mm runout and work was getting in the way like usual.

Kinda glad i did it myself... I also rebushed both swing arms though with Noltec bushes at the same time.

Just curious, what brand bearings were they? In other words, what was stamped on the bearings, wondering who Toyota uses.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Donn29 said:
That is pretty pricey for the parts... Nothing we can skimp on except the gasket things?
What is that to the right of the paper gaskets? Above the first red box?
What do you mean by 'skimp'?
I would consider doing this job myself without the right tools skimping.
As far as the parts, these parts have lasted hundreds of thousands of miles in most of the MkIIs out there (I can count the number of people on this forum that have done the rear wheel bearings on one hand...).
That's a pretty good track record for this particular set of 'Toyota' parts.
It's not a job you want to do again should a Non Toyota (read cheaper) bearing or seal go bad in less miles.

To the right of the paper gaskets is the 'Spacer' (with the bump in the middle).

Half the cost of the parts are what Toyota deemed 'non reusable'. So what is left are the conical bearings. If you are taking on this job because you have bearings that need replaced, I guess you can only 'skimp' on the parts that Toyota calls 'non reusable'. Then how long will the grease stay in if you reused seals?...

The cost of this repair is a problem. I can get another MkII for what I spent (And I did not pay list).
I just decided to document it and put it out there so people that are keeping their MkIIs forever know what to expect and what to ask for at Christmas. That would be a BJ - 'Bearing Job' :D.

Make friends with your parts supplier, whoever that may be as you could save money there.

Ken
 
#14 ·
What do you mean by 'skimp'?
I would consider doing this job myself without the right tools skimping.
As far as the parts, these parts have lasted hundreds of thousands of miles in most of the MkIIs out there (I can count the number of people on this forum that have done the rear wheel bearings on one hand...).
That's a pretty good track record for this particular set of 'Toyota' parts.
It's not a job you want to do again should a Non Toyota (read cheaper) bearing or seal go bad in less miles.
OOPS, didn't realize I sounded like a cheapo. When it comes time, I'd be doing this myself anyways...
 
#12 ·
Been there ... done that. I reused the nut and the realy thin spacer. I did buy a new crush sleeve but considered reusing it with another shim. Half way through the job I decided it sucked sooooooo much I wasn't going to risk having to do it again if the crush sleeve spacer was too thick or thin.

The only SST I used was a B.F.H. (15 lbs.) and an air hammer for reassembly.

I got the bearings and crush sleeve at Toyota ... but the seals from the local parts store to save some cash.
 
#13 ·
Well Ken, I'm glad you did this write up prior to me doing the rear bearings on my DD (Cressida). I scored new bearings and seals that are still in the packaging from a parts car that I bought some time ago. Since I had the parts, I was thinking of tossing them on the car when I replace the diff soon.

So... It sounds like the spacer/crush washer definately needs to be replace huh? :confused:
 
#16 ·
Grab the top and bottom of the tire while the car is off the ground, and pull back and forth (pulling at the top while pushing on the bottom, and visa versa). If the wheel moves, then you need bearings. Mine isn't moving, but it is squealing at high speed.....only on the side that I didn't replace yet.
 
#20 ·
the ones that came out of my 250K+ kms control arms still looked perfect, but alot of the grease was gone cuz the seals were slowly leaking, and the bearings were starting to get loose
 
#21 ·
I just had the rear wheel bearings done at Toyota.
Normally, I like to do repairs in my own garage, but I counted no less than 19 SSTs (Special Service Tools) I didn't have in the RA (Rear Axle) SST section.

Very expensive job - List price $463 parts, $262.50 labor

Here is an exploded diagram:



Parts List:
(2) 90179-20061 Nut $12.80 $25.60
(2) 90311-38009 Seal, Type $11.32 $22.64
(2) 90366-30001 Bearing, RT $47.47 $94.94
(2) 42413-22010 Spacer, RR $72.85 $145.70
(2) 90368-34083-77 Bearing, RT $70.15 $140.30
(2) 90311-48001 Seal, Type $16.50 $33.00





Ken
Can anyone tell me if all of these parts are absolutely necessary? My passenger side rear wheel makes a humming noise shortly after being on the road for a few minutes. I assume that it needs new inner and outer wheel bearings. Can I just replace the inner and outer bearings, or do I need all of these seals as well? Thanks in advance.
 
#22 ·
JJ, you'll need the seals also. But, before you buy anything, really check it out. I recently had a car "last spring actually" in the garage, we were - sure- was the pass rear wheel bearings. Had the car in the air, couple different people listening. Didn't have a spare rear control arm handy, but, we were swapping the diff. so we finished that job "different ratio". Hmmmm, low and behold, the car didn't howl anymore. Better yet, the PO had taken it to a shop, and was told it was the wheel bearings. Noise resonation is a terrible thing, making diagnostics a PITA.
 
#23 ·
Ill have to take it in to be diagnosed I suppose. I was hopping that it would be a dead give away as being the wheel bearings....but I dont want to take the chance that its not, and have new parts put in that were fine to begin with. Guess Ill end up having to pay someone to diagnose the problem. Oh well...hopefully Ill get it taken care of this week. Tomorrow evening Ill jack up the rear wheel and check for wheel movement/looseness since that seems to also be an indication of bad bearings. Just to emphasize, the rear wheel does not start making humming noises until after I have been driving for a few minutes....and at speeds above 30-40 or so. If these are not indications of bad bearings, what else should I look into that may be the problem? Thanks again everyone.
 
#24 ·
Are you close to any of the other members in FL ?

Since it takes a short drive to start making noise ....Check the diff fluid level for starters. After sitting, the diff fluid is at the bottom of the diff. After a short drive, it's heated up, and dispersed throughout the diff. May be low, and not properly oiling the bearings in it.
 
#27 ·
Mine is to the point where its embarrassing. Needless to say, its not moved out of the garage in over a month now. This weekend I'll mess with it and see if I can pin point the problem.
 
#29 ·
Hi Folks, great thread :)

I'm thinking of doing my 84 P rear bearings. They aren't making any noise, but with over 300k on the car...it's time.

They are "frozen" in place, the old slide hammer doesn't budge them. So I'm guessing I'll have to remove the assembly and press out.

Question -- what typically is the condition of the old bearings? Are the reuseable, if you catch them before they squeal?

Thanks,

Fred
 
#30 ·
Bringing this old topic back up. Essentially, instead of buying all of the bearings, seals,ect...I could just buy complete whole new inner and outer axle assemblies instead, that way everything is brand new right? Do I assume right that the new axle assemblies will have all new seals and wheel bearings already? It may be more money this way, but it gives me better piece of mind to just replace the whole axle assemblies if it does include all of the bearings, seals along with everything else.
 
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