Rusty's 7M-GTE Build Thread

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  1. #1
    is awesome kmfdmk's Avatar
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    Rusty's 7M-GTE Build Thread

    I'm building up a 7M-GTE to put into my 85 MKII P-type. I already regularly AutoX, RallyX, and drift my car, not to mention run it in the AKA Rally a 3000+ mile road rally across the US. I decided after only doing 118mph last year on the Bonneville Salt Flats, and after having to run the piss out of my 5M just to keep up with everyone on the Rally that I needed something more, a lot something more.

    Since I'm a bomb technician I make good money, so cost while still definitely an issue and wanting to do it efficiently, I wanted to do it right so that I wouldn't have the usual problems from a direct JDM swap engine (buying someone else's unwanted & unknown problems).

    88 7M-GTE block
    Bored .020 (20 thousandths over)
    Honed & Polished
    Decked Block
    Magnafluxed Block

    Stock 88 head
    Dye checked for cracks etc
    Port & Polish exhaust side
    Short-Turn radii removed on intake side
    Intake port matched

    Stock Exhaust Manifold Port Matched to the Head and polished up (esp where the exhaust flows across the divider and into the turbo).

    Used Eagle Forged Rods (these came out of a built motor that had the pistons burnt up due to improper AFR during break-in, only about 250 approx miles if that)
    New Probe Forged Pistons .020 Overbore w/ Rings

    Stock Crank Magnafluxed
    Micropolished journals
    Teardropped oil passageways
    Undersized Bearings

    Front Sump 5M-GE Pan w/ Oil Return already there

    Used 5M-GE Oil Pump rebuilt (returned to spec & tight clearances, shimmed for higher pressures)

    Intercooler, crossflow Spearco style, 24"x12"x3" w/ 3" inlet/outlet
    3" Intercooler piping
    3 or 4" Exhaust w/ matching (3 or 4") custom fabbed downpipe
    Aeromotive FPR Kit (from Driftmotion)
    CT-26 .57 trim (from Driftmotion)
    MAFT-Pro
    650cc Injectors
    Walbro 255lph pump

    Fidanza 5M-GE 11lb Flywheel
    ??? ACT Perhaps, or SPEC Clutch probably Stage 3
    Thinking of wedging in a MKIV Aluminum Radiator, need to check on clearances & fitment. Anyone know if the MKIV radiator will physically fit in the MKII?? Nevermind mounting it I'll fab some mounts.

    Cost Breakdown (shipping included)
    Block & goodies & all that other bolt on crap ($??? don't remember around $300 to $400)
    Cams $85.00 (good used)
    Probe Forged Pistons $395 + Used Forged Eagle Rods $350 + ARP Head Stud kit $125 = 870 + 35.45 S&H = 905.45
    5M-Fidanza Flywheel $290 + 9.99 S&H = 299.99
    Walbro 255 pump $98 + .57 Trim CT-26 Turbo $600 + Aeromotive FPR $250 = 948 + 34.81 S&H = 982.81
    6x Oil Squirters = around $80 (I think)
    Rear Wheel Bearings, Drum Brakes, Axle-Stub Nuts, Seals, Bearing Puller & Grease, & 7M-GTE Hoses = around $500
    Stage III Clutch $515 + 26 S&H = 541
    7M XTD 12lb Lightweight Flywheel = $100
    Intercooler $175
    Junkie's Wiring Harness = $450
    5M ECU & plugs for Junkie = $55
    Upgraded 7M-GTE Oil Pump $325 + ARP Main Studs $139.99 = 464.99 + 17.08 S&H = 482.07
    Machine Work... = .... $3514...Ouch
    550cc Injectors, Intake Mani, Timing Belt Idler, ARP Flywheel Bolts, and EGR Block Off = 631.06 (driftmotion)
    50mm BOV, All Intercooler Hoses, Fuel Dampner Bypass, Form In Place Gasket Sealer, Gates Racing 7M Timing Belt (Kevlar Reinforced), NGK Plugs, NGK Wires = $435.59
    Mocal Oil Thermostat w/ AN-10 fittings - $64
    6M Crank Scraper - $89.27
    LIPP Turbo Outlet Flange ($20.55), Electronic Boost Controller for Maft-Pro ($69.99), Boost Controller Plug-n-Play Harness ($24.99) = $135.36 (SupraSport.com)
    Griffin Aluminum Radiator ($195.95), PermaCool Spin-On Remote Oil Filter Adapter ($10.95) = $218.65
    AutoGage Water Temp & Oil Press Gauge Kit (Mech. Analog) ($46.95), B&M 6x11" Bar+Plate Oil Cooler ($62.88), PermaCool Dual Filter Mount ($31.95), 1/2" NPT - 1/2" Hose Barb Fittings x5 ($19.75), 1/2" NPT - 1/2" 90* Bend Host Barb ($3.95), -10 AN to -10 Hose Barb x4 ($23.80), Summit Glasspack 3" ($19.95) = 220.98 (Summit)
    Full Turbo Gasket Kit = $81.79
    Dipstick Tube = $19.09
    Plug for Head = $4.87
    Plug for Head 3x = $11.46
    Plug for Head 3x = $12.72
    MKIII U-Jounts 3x = $145.98
    Front Main Seal = $13.84
    Pilot Bearing for Crank/Xmission = $4.33
    Oil Pump Pickup Tube O-Ring = $0.85
    Thermostat = $10.69
    Cam Position Sensor (CPS) Dust Cover Gasket = $2.08
    O-Ring for CPS = $1.72
    Head Valley Cover = $37.45
    Custom 2-Piece driveshaft LABOR - $380
    MKIII Carrier Bearing for Custom 2-Piece Driveshaft - $170
    MKIII Driveshaft Bolts, Nuts & Lock Washers 8x - $48
    Extra 2.5" U-Bend 2x - $45
    VHT Ceramic Enamel Paint 3x Cans - $36
    VHT Engine Enamel Paint 2x Cans - $10
    Plasti-Kote Primer & Paint 2x - $10
    Drill Bit Set - $16
    3" Hole-Saw & Pilot Bit - $50
    .035" Flux-Core MIG Wire - $20
    45* 1/2" NPT Adapters 3x - $50
    1/4" Steel Rod for Exhaust Hangers - $7
    Various Hardware & Flat Stock for IC & Oil Cooler - $20
    R-154 Slave Cylinder - $55

    Running Total : $11529.10
    Getting Tomorrow:
    MSD 8920 Tach Adapter
    GM 3bar MAP Sensor
    GM AIT Sensor

    Left to Get:
    Muffler $56 shipped


    Now for the pictures. BTW the full gallery of pictures (I'm only posting the good/pertinent ones) can be viewed here: http://s92169157.onlinehome.us/gallery/7mgte


    Stock head before stripping down to take to the machine shop.


    Crank


    Odds & Ends Parts & Pieces (Rear Timing cover, bearings, water pump etc)


    Cam removal before taking to the machine shop.


    Cams are a little rusty (lol) I'm still waiting to hear back if the cams are usable or not.


    This manifold turned out to be worthless since it was full of cracks (no suprise there)


    Not the recommended cam removal method but it worked.


    Something tells me I'll need new lifter caps (or whatever you call them)


    Removing something related to either Fuel or EGR. Gee... I'm wearing a KMFDM shirt... what a suprise.


    Used EAGLE Forged Rods as I received them from Aaron from Driftmotion.com Bushings looked great and Aaron is incredibly good with customer service. No really, I called him @ 8.30pm @ night to leave a message on his business machine and he actually answered and we talked for like 45 minutes. Really helpful, highly recommended.


    EAGLE logo, anyone else thinking Third Reich or is the Industrial music I listen to getting to me.


    5M-GE Pan, front-sump w/ Oil Return already present.


    Oil Pump (duh)




    All new Oil Squirters for the 7M-GTE block, gotta keep those pistons cool.


    Probe Forged Pistons, Rings & ARP Head Studs


    A good view of the top valve recesses & dish


    Another good view of the recesses & dish


    Fidanza 11lb Aluminum Flywheel


    The 24x12x3 Intercooler, same one that Aaron's got for sale over at Driftmotion.


    The car it's all going into.

    371pH
    Last edited by kmfdmk; 01-25-2010 at 11:38 PM. Reason: Added Pictures & cost so far

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  3. #2
    CelicaSupra.com Member bradmk2drifter's Avatar
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    so far sounds awesome keep it up
    Yea i drift it so what!

    my car list
    1968 corona 4door
    1992 jeep cherokee

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    CelicaSupra.com Member supramantt10's Avatar
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    <-- jealous

    - '84 P-type, black w/ maroon leather, 5-speed R.I.P.
    - Fully Restored '85 as of Summer '05 Hidden Content Phil's da man!
    - P&P head, rebuilt top-end, Crower Cams, Tuned AFM, RC intake, RC filter, coated PS headers,
    2.25 Magnaflow catback, LJM strut bar, TSC rear tower brace, Redline Fluids, Toyota Red Coolant, + alot of TLC.
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  6. #4
    is awesome kmfdmk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by supramantt10 View Post


    <-- jealous

    Reload the page I just added pics. Sorry 'bout that wanted to make sure that CS didn't eat my post after I typed all that in. Had it happen a few times.

  7. #5
    CelicaSupra.com Member pimptrizkit's Avatar
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    rock on rusty, glade your finaly doing a build thread!

  8. #6
    Boosting Mod SilverMk2's Avatar
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    Just some recommendations, but if you are going crazy with the build you might want to seek out the later 7M block and head. Also the 650 injectors are overkill for a CT turbo. You should take the smallest injector you need for driveability.

  9. #7
    is awesome kmfdmk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverMk2 View Post
    Just some recommendations, but if you are going crazy with the build you might want to seek out the later 7M block and head. Also the 650 injectors are overkill for a CT turbo. You should take the smallest injector you need for driveability.
    What are the differences between the earlier and later block & head deisgns? I realize the 650cc Injectors are overkill, however in a year or two I plan on upgrading to a T04 turbo (and accordingly upgrade the fuel system & transmission, I'm sure I'll be tired of swapping W58's by then). And the difference between 550cc RC's & 650cc RC's is only $15 so for me it seems VERY worth it to save having to spend $550 bucks twice at the cost of a little bit of driveability. I'll be having RRev Motorsports head tuning guy doing the tuning and I've already got a good basemap for a 7M-GTE to work off of so I don't foresee the 650's being an issue really.

    And you speak of driveabilty sacrifices/issues; what do you really mean? Running rich @ idle?, piss-poor mileage? I can live with both of those.

  10. #8
    CelicaSupra.com Member supramantt10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmfdmk View Post
    Reload the page I just added pics. Sorry 'bout that wanted to make sure that CS didn't eat my post after I typed all that in. Had it happen a few times.
    Now that's better.

    Looks nice! A total rebuild = $$$ you da man.
    - '84 P-type, black w/ maroon leather, 5-speed R.I.P.
    - Fully Restored '85 as of Summer '05 Hidden Content Phil's da man!
    - P&P head, rebuilt top-end, Crower Cams, Tuned AFM, RC intake, RC filter, coated PS headers,
    2.25 Magnaflow catback, LJM strut bar, TSC rear tower brace, Redline Fluids, Toyota Red Coolant, + alot of TLC.
    Hidden Content

  11. #9
    CelicaSupra.com Member pimptrizkit's Avatar
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    there should be no issue with using an early block and head.

  12. #10
    Member JoeC's Avatar
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    Never heard of a 90+ block being any stronger or better designed either.

    Rusty, I for one am glad you take our advice with a lot of things. Your build will be bad-ass! Any ways. I don't see 650's giving any problems with a professional tune. He will be running 450rwhp which will give him about 70-75&#37; injector duty cycle at full load. With 550cc injectors it would be around 80-90% duty cycle (assuming 1cc per 1hp and taking account for some valvetrain loss.)

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