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Thread: Rusty's 7M-GTE Build Thread
05-12-2008, 01:41 AM #21
More pictures.. Of the headwork & wheel bearing change which didn't fix the howl in my rear, I've concluded it's the Diff. This would be a logical conclusion since I've been drifting & auto-x'ing the thing and it's begun to "loosen up" a bit on me, not locking up properly. Hunting for a new 4.?? or 3.high diff. and R154.
Polished lower intake mocked up to the head.
Detail of the removal of the short-turn radii on the intake side of the head.
Detail of the polished lower intake.
Closeup detail of the removal of the short-turn radii on the intake side of the head.
Mild porting, more really of the polishing on the divider in the exhaust manifold.
The head all pretty & clean w/ some kind of meaningful numbers written all over it.
3-angle Vavle job detail and crummy detail of some kind of work that I paid big $$ for *lol*.
Hub, Rotor, & Parking brakes off, axle stub getting ready to come out for bearing replacement.
$108 bucks worth of bearing puller and worth EVERY DAMN PENNY!!
Closeup detail of the part numbers on the Bearing Pullers JIC anyone else would ever want to order them. I got these over the counter from Baxters which is literally right around the corner. I think they're some kind of uber hard alloy.
Around $300 to $350 bucks worth of parts. New L&R F&R parking brakes (OMG E-brake WORKS now!!), new nuts, inner & outer bearing seals, inner & outer bearings, grease, 14mm socket & 27mm socket, screwdriver, hammer and you can pretty much take the whole damn thing apart.
Of course none of this would be possible with out some punches and a BFH (Big f'n hammer)
Closeup of the bearing puller clamp on the bearing itself. I tightened these down evenly and got them firmly snug.
Then I went to Home Depot and got some 3/8" x 8" bolts because the little 3" long ones it came with weren't suited for my application. Note that I made very sure to have the bearing puller evenly aligned so that it would pull STRAIGHT up & not be cockeyed.
Working on pulling the #$%^ bearing off. Usually a PITA in the past, however the puller makes life much easier. NOTE: See how I sorta cheated by putting the wrench in the center of the Puller Screw? This lets me have something to leverage against when I'm cranking on it to pull the bearing off. Just have you be careful not to damage the threads on the Puller Screw with the wrench.
Installation reverse of removal, other than the application of the bearings onto the stub with a punch, a smaller hammer and TLC spreading out the taps on the inner race of the outer bearing in a top bottom left right manner to get it on.
Also left out was the hour spent cussing at the car due to cross threading the NEW nut I bought from the dealership, pulling it back off, cleaning out the thread shavings and reusing the old nut which turned out ok. Not to mention the other hour of cussing at the car because I want to shoot the invetor of DRUM BRAKES in the FACE. What a PITA, ineffecient design. WHY O WHY Can't Supra's have the same E-Brakes as Hachi's? Pull the handle and the .... wait for it... CALIPERS squeeze the rotor. OMG life would just be too easy then.
More pictures to come. Turbo, Walbro, RRFPR Aeromotive, ARP Main Studs on the way. Figuring out how to get a 7M pump in a 7M with a 5M pan...
Got a mohawk today too. That was an adjustment, had long hair (past my shoulders for about 9 years now) and now I've got a 8" mohawk. Pictures to come of that as well hehe.
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05-13-2008, 12:04 AM #22
Looking good Rusty...can't wait to check out the Mohawk! Drum brake style E-brake is much more efficient than the clamp style. Try living with the clamp style and you'll know what I mean (they don't work worth a shit, that's why they got rid of them).Mark
05-13-2008, 01:44 AM #23
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05-13-2008, 09:54 PM #24
Although right now the biggest thing that's going to be holding me back is frickin' waiting on the cams to get them to the shop to have them installed, and getting the 7M-GTE oil pump pickup fabbed to fit the Front Sump pan.
At the rate I'm going with money I'm cutting it close, I still have the remainder of the AKA Rally to pay for and plus save up some money for the rally itself.
05-16-2008, 12:52 PM #25
Looks good rusty! glad your going with the R154.
Hey, wheres those videos from centralia man?
05-16-2008, 09:15 PM #26
ARP Main Studs
ARP Main Stud Detail
Upgraded & Moly coated/plated 7M pump.
You can see where they ground off the stock "TOYOTA" casting hehe.
Aeromotive RRFPR w/ Adjustable Base, Oil-Filled Gauge & Install Kit
Walbro 255lph In-Tank Pump & Install kit. NOTE: This is for the MK3 Application, note that PN: 125-147 is the PN for the fuel pickup sock.
Walbro Pump & Instructions. NOTE: The PN for the pump is 147-385
Turbo is about a week out. I'll be waiting about 4 weeks to get my cams since I'm out of money. Dolt!! I guess I should have got the cams prior to getting the turbo & FPR oh well...
05-16-2008, 11:01 PM #27
very nice progress. i admire what your doing man. very intimidating work to say the least.
all this makes me wanna find out whats wrong with my 7m since it seems to burn fuel and give out a lot of smoke from the exhaust after boost.-Jonathan 1985 black MKII 7mgte 299rwhp/321tq 9lbs firstname.lastname@example.org
Our father, who art in Toyota hallowed be thy name. Thy 7m has come, the boost will be done in MKII and it is in MKIII. Give us this day our daily kill and forgive us our awesome launches, as we forgive Hondas who launch against us.
05-27-2008, 11:32 AM #28
05-27-2008, 01:26 PM #29
06-04-2008, 09:53 PM #30
These are all self explanatory. .57 Trim CT-26 turbo from Driftmotion.com. If you haven't heard of them, go check them out for 7M stuff. All kinds of good deals and good prices, kick ass customer support too.
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