Cressida Wagon 6M - 5 Speed - LSD (Build) - Page 3
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  1. #21
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    Push down belt release lever.

    It flashes and dings when you pull up the seat belt release lever next to the ebrake


    Quote Originally Posted by scorpmatt View Post
    what does the big button say in that pic? Push Down something Release Lever
    David W
    06 V6 Legend LimeMustang

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  3. #22
    CelicaSupra.com Member sowsley's Avatar
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    I'm a big fan of silver engine blocks, but other than that, nice work!
    Bad decisions make the BEST stories.

    1982 Supra P-type

    1982 Specific TSRM's
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  4. #23
    CelicaSupra.com Member droptopsupra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scorpmatt View Post
    what does the big button say in that pic? Push Down something Release Lever
    Yep just like intelwalk said...

    The 85-88 Cressida have automatic sholder belts. There are two levers next to the e-brake handle that are there for safety.

    Quote Originally Posted by sowsley View Post
    I'm a big fan of silver engine blocks, but other than that, nice work!
    Thanks! I was undecided about the color. I was going to go with something more universal, but my friend at the parts store talked me into blue.
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  5. #24
    CelicaSupra.com Member Shift's Avatar
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    what ever happened to the convertable supra?

  6. #25
    CelicaSupra.com Member droptopsupra's Avatar
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    My DD and the wagon (mostly the DD) have been keeping me busy.

    I hope to get the convertible in the garage by the fall and start sorting through the wiring for the front lights and the dash. The body work is mostly done and it sits in primer. The 7mgte is at my friends house. Too many projects!
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  7. #26
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by droptopsupra View Post
    Yep just like intelwalk said...

    The 85-88 Cressida have automatic sholder belts. There are two levers next to the e-brake handle that are there for safety.

    Wow....and my brother adds something productive.... I didn't know you still watch this forum....
    More psi please!
    82 P-Type Red + Black Panda - SOLD
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  8. #27
    CelicaSupra.com Member droptopsupra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by walkerhiboost View Post
    Wow....and my brother adds something productive.... I didn't know you still watch this forum....
    What's up Brian. You still out in the NW? As you can see... I've pretty busy with Cressida stuff.
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  9. #28
    CelicaSupra.com Member xiong80s's Avatar
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    Hey, so what driveshaft are you using? The stock one from the factory 5spd? Does it bolt up perfect? LMK
    Ol' Skool Toyz/1987 Cressida
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  10. #29
    CelicaSupra.com Member droptopsupra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xiong80s View Post
    Hey, so what driveshaft are you using? The stock one from the factory 5spd? Does it bolt up perfect? LMK
    I have a factory 5 speed drive shaft (front section). However, the wagons came stock with a one piece drive shaft. When I get to that point, I will have a custom driveshaft made... That is if I have any money.
    If not, I will use the stock one. It may need to be modified a bit.
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  11. #30
    CelicaSupra.com Member droptopsupra's Avatar
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    Uh Oh!

    I spoke to the machine shop about cleaning up the rust dust from all of the machined surfaces again. We talked through getting the rust dust off with scotch brite light duty pads and then protecting the surfaces with oil. The type of oil would vary depending on how long it would be before I assemble the block. He said that WD-40 would be fine. He advised me to make sure that I got all of the soap off of the block with water, blow all of the water away with air, spray the machined surfaces with WD-40, and finally blow the block with air again. The WD-40 is not only to protect the block but to get rid of the water as well. I learned that WD stands for "Water Displacement".

    Great, so I got that done. Everything looked good but not as shiny as when I first got the block due to the layer of oil on the machined surfaces.

    I decided to pick up some plastigage and install the crank. This is the "Uh Oh" part. The bearings that I have are .25 undersized bearings. I installed the bearings, laid plastigage across the cranked and torqued the caps down to 75 ft/lbs. The clearances were much less than .025 mm which was the smallest clearance measurable with the green plastigage. The plastigage markings were as wide as the .025 and .038 measurements combined. I thought that was odd. I cleaned up the plastigage off of the crank and the bearings. I noticed that the plastigage left an indentation in the bearings. I thought that was odd too. I torqued the caps down again, to see how the crank was rotating. It was seized. I then removed the caps and the cranks still wouldn't turn. The crank eventually popped free. I hand tighten the caps and the crank turned with some resistance. So, there was practically no oil clearance.

    Oh well back to the machine shop. I will call the shop later today. Apparently the crank was not ground down for the .25 undersized bearings. All though the still look good, I may need new bearings and probably have to grind the crank. Maybe the standard size bearing will work. This is where a micrometer would have prevented all of this.

    I took pics up until the battery died on the camera. Will post them some other time.

    Meanwhile, I remove a Motorola CB Radio that was installed in the wagon and now I guess I will start working on the pedals. More to come.
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