2JZ-GE PnP wiring guide

[ihateu3]

Good to know it helped solve the problem and my instincts weren't to far off. How does it run?

Runs like a top so far! Not to enthused about some of the Japanese usual maintenance leading to baked sludge on the inside though. Still, high oil pressure at least! Now to get the downpipe fabbed and hooked so I can really tell. Boost cut is obvious without that, and just as soon as I was about feel some excitement it boost cut... Sucks because I am currently in limbo wondering "is this really faster than my 7m"? Of course aside of boost cut, power delivery is much different than the single 7m, twins are much more drive-able for that medium in between pace.

I always felt in my 7m that I was driving Granny slow, or hauling ass, there was no in between...

[Lee_MA61]

Runs like a top so far! Not to enthused about some of the Japanese usual maintenance leading to baked sludge on the inside though. Still, high oil pressure at least! Now to get the downpipe fabbed and hooked so I can really tell. Boost cut is obvious without that, and just as soon as I was about feel some excitement it boost cut... Sucks because I am currently in limbo wondering "is this really faster than my 7m"? Of course aside of boost cut, power delivery is much different than the single 7m, twins are much more drive-able for that medium in between pace.

I always felt in my 7m that I was driving Granny slow, or hauling ass, there was no in between...

Nice welcome to the dark side. and empty pockets. haha

[1SupraMk2]

Oh crap, I wish I hadn't seen this thread. I've been trying to tell myself the 5MGE is just fine for me, and now this. Anyone want to sell me their low mileage GS300 that the texting teenage girl creamed from behind?

[ihateu3]

Lee, I believe that your statement of "E3 EFI Main Relay B+ Black/Red (Main function(s) Idle Air Control)" should go to the ignitor, it should actually go to the main relay on our cars. This provides power for the IACV to reset itself and negates the need to hook up the IACV separately. It works great this way!

[zuprax85]

ey guys, i have the a/c working in my car, but at idle, turning or becoming to a stop the car sometimes will shut off due the lower rpm using the a/c compressor, can anybody lead me to which pin should be power it in order to trick the computer in a/c mode? thanks !

[lacrssgus14]

Pin 23 (white wire/green stripe) on connector e10 (smaller plug) is the activator coil ground (negative) for the A/C magnetic clutch relay, which engages the A/C magnetic clutch

Pin 34 (blue wire/red stripe) on connector e10 (smaller plug) is the A/C request input from the A/C amplifier module. This is what you want to run from the MKII system to tell the ECU to turn the A/C on. It will then ground pin 23 to engage the A/C magnetic clutch.

This info is directly off of mkiv.com
http://www.mkiv.com/manual/1995_elec...95elec_230.JPG
http://www.mkiv.com/manual/1995_elec...95elec_231.JPG

Beyond this, I do not know much else, i have never bothered to think about A/C, hope it helps.

[drdoominator420]

i have a fix to the fuel pump cut-off for an accident. use a inertia switch from a 80s ford wire it inline with the fuel pump. that way when you hit something, the switch opens.

[Lee_MA61]

that's perfect!

[MrBubbles00482]

I recently pulled a 2jz-ge from a 94 sc300 that is cali spec, so there is a third o2 sensor really low in the exhaust. I did grab the third sensor, and the complete harness that runs through the floor so 2 of the 4 wires for the sensor are intact. Does the engine need the 3rd sensor to function properly?

Pin 30 - Ox3 (black) - Sub heated oxygen sensor &
Pin 36 - Ox3 (yellow/blue) - Sub heated oxygen sensor, are complete harness wise with pigtails all the way to the third o2 sensor.

Coming off the O2 sensor plug, I have a black/red and a brown that just snaked into the body harness on the GS....any clue to what those are going to go to? Just from wiring experience brown is a ground in most toyota's, and black/red is either +12v or +12v ignition...just a shot in the dark. The brown wire actually ties into pin 30 further up.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[lacrssgus14]

Off the top of my head, the black/red and brown wires in question are the power and ground for the "heated" part of your sensor. Splice the black/red into any other black/red wire in your harness, it will be power from the main relay. The IACV and both TPS sensors use this circuit.

In order to not use this sensor and not throw a check engine light you have three options. One is to purchase an O2 fooler and wire it in place of the 3rd sensor. You can also splice into either of the upper O2 sensors for a signal. Otherwise just grab a non cali spec ECU.