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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    7,923

    Marvel Mystery Oil before or after

    so I am getting ready to do a oil change (its a bit early but I still want to change it)

    but Im fairly sure a have a sticky lifter. Dont know why on a fully rebuilt engine but thats exactly what it sounds like.


    I know Marvel mystery oil has been recomended on here by multiple people on multiple occasions.

    What I am wondering is if I should put it in now cause its still early and then change afterwards, or just add it in with the new fresh oil.

    Thanks.
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    US
    Posts
    515
    Add a 1/2 qt. of ATF to your current engine oil and run it at idle for 15 min (engine pre-warmed). Perform a normal oil / filter change after and you should be good to go.

    ATF is high in detergents and removes any carbon build-up that may have occurred.

    I don't recommend "flushing" for high mileage engines because it may break loose some seriously built-up crap and develop a leak (gasket / seal), or plug up an oil passage with smaller pieces of "sludge" and dislodged bits.

    I've heard a 1/3 to 1/2 a can of seafoam works as well, but I have not tried this method and wouldn't want to. Seafoam is too thin for my liking, but a plus is that it removes moisture as it circulates.

    Marvel Mystery oil is exactly that. A mystery. I'm sure it works and all but I don't know what's in it, so I stay clear (just IMO).

    But of course, if you use quality oils and change them in their proper intervals you should "theoretically" have no problems. But sh...stuff happens.

    Edit: If you do use Marvel, add it in now, run it, and see if it fixes the problem. If not then something's up.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
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    encase you didnt notice this is not a high mileage engine. It is like a 3 or 4 k engine.

    But I think there might be a little gunk inside the lifters cause I Think I forgot to clean the insides thoroughly.
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    US
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    I know you don't have a high mileage engine.
    But the next person to read this might...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
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    gotchya...

    Yeah since my oil isnt really THAT dirty I will just add the marvel stuff before I change it. Drive it for a day or so then change it all out for a fresh clean oil and filter I think.
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Graham, WA
    Posts
    5,294
    I have been using MMO in the oil to quiet the noisy lifters since I first converted to the 5M. Never had any issues oil related, and I know there are many sites that support MMO, like Bobistheoilguy.
    -Chris

    1983 Celipra GTS:
    6M bored .50 over. 250cc injectors. Delta 272 regrind cams. Carter HF fuel pump.
    Pacesetter header w/2.5" cutsom exhaust. Open air intake filter. 3" piping to TB. 65mm TB & ported AFM.
    4:10 rear from Supra. BillyM shifter kit. Swapped most interior over to black. T3 camber plates.
    935 Budget Coilover kit. KYB AGX struts. T3 Needle bearing upper perch kit. Eibach Sport rear supra springs. SF Ford TFI Performance coil.
    Almost finished with the fiberglass hatch!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    US
    Posts
    515
    Do you run full synthetic?
    I always thought MMO was more of an upper engine lubricator, I didn't know it's used to clean as well.

    Just an interesting fact:
    Dark oil does not indicate the need for an oil change. The way modern detergent motor oil works is that minute particles of soot are suspended in the oil. These minute particles pose no danger to your engine, but they cause the oil to darken. A non-detergent oil would stay clearer than a detergent oil because all the soot would be left on the internal engine parts and would create sludge. If you never changed your oil, eventually the oil would no longer be able to suspend any more particles in the oil and sludge would form. Fortunately, by following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval, you are changing your oil long before the oil has become saturated. Remember, a good oil should get dirty as it does it's work cleaning out the engine. The dispersant should stop all the gunk from depositing in the oil pan.

    The only real way to determine whether oil is truly in need of changing is to have an oil analysis performed. Since most people don't want to bother with this, it's acceptable to err heavily on the safe side and simply follow the manufacturer's recommended change interval for severe service. There are still a few cars that specify 3K intervals for severe service, but not many. If you look at countries other than the U.S., the oil recommended change interval is much higher than even the normal interval specified by vehicle manufacturers in the U.S.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
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    New engine I am doing the first couple sooner than needed to make sure anything in the oil gets out soon. Then I will go back to standard 3k/3month changes.

    Rather be safe than sorry.
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Chambersburg PA
    Posts
    137
    i was always a little leary about putting something that says it can go into the oil or the fuel into my car. i have considered using it a few times but never got the courage to try it out of fear it may harm something. i hear alot of yays and nays on MMO but i still am not going to chance it. I'll stick with ATF.

    1985 Toyota Celica GT-S 22R-E
    Welcome to PA! Where we work 2 jobs so you dont have to!

    Originally Posted by 54dollarMKII
    How do i know which engine is in it?


    Originally Posted by 83CelWA
    Here are the steps:
    -Open hood
    -Look at engine
    -If it looks like a 5/6M, go to next step.
    -Look at stamp on pass side in front of oil filter.

    If you need help past that, sell the Supra and go get a Honduh.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Graham, WA
    Posts
    5,294
    Quote Originally Posted by Vic_Ferrari2002 View Post
    i was always a little leary about putting something that says it can go into the oil or the fuel into my car. i have considered using it a few times but never got the courage to try it out of fear it may harm something. i hear alot of yays and nays on MMO but i still am not going to chance it. I'll stick with ATF.
    It would not help you for the typical 5/6M problem anyways.
    -Chris

    1983 Celipra GTS:
    6M bored .50 over. 250cc injectors. Delta 272 regrind cams. Carter HF fuel pump.
    Pacesetter header w/2.5" cutsom exhaust. Open air intake filter. 3" piping to TB. 65mm TB & ported AFM.
    4:10 rear from Supra. BillyM shifter kit. Swapped most interior over to black. T3 camber plates.
    935 Budget Coilover kit. KYB AGX struts. T3 Needle bearing upper perch kit. Eibach Sport rear supra springs. SF Ford TFI Performance coil.
    Almost finished with the fiberglass hatch!

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