CT26 Rebuild - How To...
While looking around I found this walk-through on how to rebuild your CT-26 (assuming you are NOT swapping wheels, and do NOT have a scored center section on the turbine shaft). It was graciously translated by Robert Pina years ago for AllTrac.net
GREAT Walkthrough. Convinced me to rebuild my own turbo or at least buy the parts to rebuild my original 57 trim that I like better than my current 57 trim. It had a WAY snappier/instant kick you in the ass boost curve. This one is smoother, and if I wanted smooth, I'd get a lexus or something.
http://www.alltrac.net/tuning/turborebuild.html
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COPIED FROM Alltrac.net
ps. I have saved these pics and will re-host if necessary and Alltrac.net ever goes down.
=========================================
Rebuilding the CT26
Introduction
In ordinary situations, the owner of a car does not rebuild his own turbo. However some have noticed that just a short time after having their CT26 rebuilt or upgraded, the seals have blown and oil is leaking. It is not necessary to do a full rebuild in this case, so a simple seal replacement is in order. Doing this step is easier than you might think. A complete rebuild can be done in some situations however, a really bad turbo must be upgraded by a professional. With this in mind, here is somewhat of a guide for you when attempting this procedure.
Before we begin, take a second to familiarize yourself with CT26 and it's parts. There are 3 main parts:
While the first and last are obvious, the CHRA is basically everything inside. From the compressor wheel, to the turbine on the exhaust side,
and the bearings seals and actual center section. The bearings in the CT26 are of a floating type. Which means they "float" in a coat of
oil. That's why with this turbo, it's very important to always run clean oil and follow proper cool down procedures.
Here's a layout of the supra CT26 (courtesy CJsupra). If you were to buy a CHRA (pictured) it comes rebuilt and assembled. The exhaust, compressor
housings have been ceramic coated, as well as the turbo elbow. There is a bag of new bolts from Toyota (recommended), and in the bottom right is
the clamp that holds the CHRA to the exhaust housing.
Journey into the unknown...
One thing to keep in mind is that the turbocharger requires a precision balance since it spins in excess of 100,00 RPM. If you do something to upset this balance, you can have a new hole in your turbo where the compressor used to be. Please be careful. Please do not hold us responsible. For the most part replacing just the seals is no problem. Attempting to repair a turbo with excessive play is very hard to do properly.
Disassembly
Parts Source
USA:
ADP @ 1800-225-3596...ask for Darell
$107.75
Canada:
Bramall Turbo Supply Ltd.
bramall@bramall-turbo.com
119 Spy Court
Markham,Ontario
Canada. L3R 5H6
Toll Free: 1 (800) 567-7559
Phone: (905) 477-7559 Fax: (905) 470-0618
CT26 Repair Kit PN# CT2003
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=========================================
It's me Rusty now.
That being said...
I would scribe the compressor nut with a razor knife or a VERY FINE tip Sharpie.
I did some reading and on SupraMania they said to use as big a hammer as you feel comfortable (more or less you have to beat the ever living shit out of the exhaust housing to get it off).
Also I would use a heat gun, not a fucking hairdryer on the exhaust housing. Really!!? a blow dryer?
I am ordering a rebuild kit tonight (From Driftmotion.com, who has a custom billet seal plate), and overnighting it to me here in Louisville. Expect a rebuild thread with pictures AND video in the coming weeks.
Peace.
While looking around I found this walk-through on how to rebuild your CT-26 (assuming you are NOT swapping wheels, and do NOT have a scored center section on the turbine shaft). It was graciously translated by Robert Pina years ago for AllTrac.net
GREAT Walkthrough. Convinced me to rebuild my own turbo or at least buy the parts to rebuild my original 57 trim that I like better than my current 57 trim. It had a WAY snappier/instant kick you in the ass boost curve. This one is smoother, and if I wanted smooth, I'd get a lexus or something.
http://www.alltrac.net/tuning/turborebuild.html
=========================================
COPIED FROM Alltrac.net
ps. I have saved these pics and will re-host if necessary and Alltrac.net ever goes down.
=========================================
Rebuilding the CT26
Introduction
In ordinary situations, the owner of a car does not rebuild his own turbo. However some have noticed that just a short time after having their CT26 rebuilt or upgraded, the seals have blown and oil is leaking. It is not necessary to do a full rebuild in this case, so a simple seal replacement is in order. Doing this step is easier than you might think. A complete rebuild can be done in some situations however, a really bad turbo must be upgraded by a professional. With this in mind, here is somewhat of a guide for you when attempting this procedure.
Before we begin, take a second to familiarize yourself with CT26 and it's parts. There are 3 main parts:
- Compressor Housing
- CHRA (Center Housing, Rotating Assembly)
- Exhaust Housing
While the first and last are obvious, the CHRA is basically everything inside. From the compressor wheel, to the turbine on the exhaust side,
and the bearings seals and actual center section. The bearings in the CT26 are of a floating type. Which means they "float" in a coat of
oil. That's why with this turbo, it's very important to always run clean oil and follow proper cool down procedures.
Here's a layout of the supra CT26 (courtesy CJsupra). If you were to buy a CHRA (pictured) it comes rebuilt and assembled. The exhaust, compressor
housings have been ceramic coated, as well as the turbo elbow. There is a bag of new bolts from Toyota (recommended), and in the bottom right is
the clamp that holds the CHRA to the exhaust housing.
Journey into the unknown...
One thing to keep in mind is that the turbocharger requires a precision balance since it spins in excess of 100,00 RPM. If you do something to upset this balance, you can have a new hole in your turbo where the compressor used to be. Please be careful. Please do not hold us responsible. For the most part replacing just the seals is no problem. Attempting to repair a turbo with excessive play is very hard to do properly.
Disassembly
- Remove Turbo Clamp covering center section (2x12mm Bolts)
- Heat the connection between center section and exhaust housing (Hair dryer)
- Knock exhaust housing free using mallot, or drive a piece of wood in between to wedge the pieces apart (Bigger Hammer sometimes required)
- Examine exhaust housing for cracks, replace if necessary
- Use some large needle nose pliers or something similar to undo the large C-clip holding on the compressor housing
- Remove the compressor housing seal using a small pick
- Mark the position of the compressor wheel to the mounting nut and turbo shaft. Must be re-installed in the same position.
- Place turbine side in workbench vice upright, remove turbo nut. (10mm if previously rebuilt, otherwise SST for toyota nut, or vice grips)
- Remove compressor
- Needle nose pliers again to remove small C-clip
- Remove top bearing (may require vice grips to pull up)
- Remove inner oil seal
- Remove washer
- Remove Bearing
- Remove Center Section from Turbine
- Clean and examine Turbine
- If the inside of the center section is scored, it must be re-bored by professional
- Assemble in reverse order, coat parts with fresh oil
- If you removed Toyota compressor nut, replace with new.
Parts Source
USA:
ADP @ 1800-225-3596...ask for Darell
$107.75
Canada:
Bramall Turbo Supply Ltd.
bramall@bramall-turbo.com
119 Spy Court
Markham,Ontario
Canada. L3R 5H6
Toll Free: 1 (800) 567-7559
Phone: (905) 477-7559 Fax: (905) 470-0618
CT26 Repair Kit PN# CT2003
=========================================
=========================================
It's me Rusty now.
That being said...
I would scribe the compressor nut with a razor knife or a VERY FINE tip Sharpie.
I did some reading and on SupraMania they said to use as big a hammer as you feel comfortable (more or less you have to beat the ever living shit out of the exhaust housing to get it off).
Also I would use a heat gun, not a fucking hairdryer on the exhaust housing. Really!!? a blow dryer?
I am ordering a rebuild kit tonight (From Driftmotion.com, who has a custom billet seal plate), and overnighting it to me here in Louisville. Expect a rebuild thread with pictures AND video in the coming weeks.
Peace.