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Thread: Rusty's Nerd-Core Thread Index
09-14-2010, 09:57 PM #21
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12-28-2010, 01:28 AM #22
The latest thing I'm in love with. Cheap Digital EGT Sensors/Gauges with Peak Recall!! IN THREE COLORS.
Oh My God, It's SO FLUFFY!!!!
DIGITAL EGT THERMOMETER PYROMETER W/ PROBE-NPT $99 bucks for Gauge WITH EGT!!
$89 for Red
$98 for Green
12-28-2010, 01:38 AM #23
ZOMG... From Auber Instruments, the same people that make the EGT Gauges.
$36 Digital Gauge, & Temperature Controller.The cold junction compensation circuit has been improved for better accuracy when used with thermocouple sensor. A true on/off control mode is added. It is useful for controlling a refrigerator, motor, or solenoid valve that does not like to be switched too frequently. User can set the temperature and hysteresis band. It will work like a mechanical thermostat with better accuracy and tighter temperature range. Limit control function is added. It can be used for safety protection and special applications. When connected to a contactor, it can function as a latching relay. It will shut off the system if the temperature is out of control.
My dad and I have discussed installing NC (Normally Closed=turned on) solenoids inline for the ignition system. If Fuel Pressure ever drops too low (pump failure), or oil pressure drops too low (oil leak/starvation) the engine shuts down to prevent damage to the internals!!
Next to figure out a logic circuit to incorporate on to monitor TPS voltage AND AFR, and detect for an AFR =>13.5 when boost =>5psi results in a) Waste Gate open signal, AND / OR b) ignition cutout.
Dual Alarm Gauge... *drools*
12-28-2010, 01:25 PM #24
- Join Date
- Jul 2009
- Everett WA
I had already seen the wire from OP sending unit, to the ECU in the EWD, and had wondered about it. Looked again when I got home, and yeah, I had seen correctly. Again, it doesn't work very well, if at all, but, Toyota at least made the attempt.Shawn > Junkie < 83 Ltype 7mgte/a340 swap, 84 Ptype 7mgte and 20k original miles on the chassis, 85 Ptype Blue Hard top, basicaly stock. 82 Ltype, auto ... not home yet, but another added to the stable.
01-20-2011, 10:21 AM #25
Wow, that's pretty cool. I'll have to start looking at the 85 / 87 wiring diagrams and figure out how to make a NC circuit (for the ECU control) which also triggers a NO circuit (for the JACKASS light). Something to talk about with Mr. Mark Mark 2. (sherman)
How a DRY Sump Oiling System Works
I will admit I don't understand why he says:
Pan -> Scavenge Pump Stage -> Cooler -> Reservoir -> Pressure Pump Stage -> Engine.
I think it would perhaps be better to cool Before AND After Scavenging, or perhaps just After scavenging.
One would have to calculate the thermodynamic efficiencies and the effects. This is a FUN math problem. and boils down to a comparison of which is greater Heat Extraction (via Cooler, and Absorption by the Reservoir) vs. Heat Input (hot oil from the engine. And then figuring out if at a steady highway speed situation, is it more efficient to cool before & after. Then compare against shorter, but much harder driving situation, Drifting perhaps (high load, high rpm).
Drag racing wouldn't be a good comparison, due to the fact that some engines run / no coolant at all since they make the pass in 10s or less.
Mike / CarFreek. Do you know of any good books/references to start from? (doing fluid/oil based thermodynamics, and heat exchange formula)
And for you scaredy cats out there. The shit is REALLY simple. More simple that you think.
Basically it goes like this:
Heat Added/Lost = How how is the Oil * How much Hot Oil do you have * How Fast Heat Spreads thru Oil (@ that temperature) * How hot is the oil you have - (How hot is the oil coming out of the reservoir * How much heat can the oil cooler lose (ratio))
The * or - and ( ) may be a bit off, but the shit has been around so long it's pretty much plug and play.
Where it gets tricky is .... closed loop systems. Engine oil is recirculated. So, the final output of oil, after it gets all the way through the pan, pump, filter, engine, and back to the pan... will actually continually increase in temperature if you're pulling a hill, or on a dyno.
I love this shit!
01-20-2011, 12:42 PM #26
02-10-2011, 04:54 AM #27
06-07-2011, 07:48 AM #28
Mulsanne's Corner - Technical analysis of contemporary sports prototype racing cars (Group C, IMSA GTP, WSC, LMP), delving into how they are designed, how they are built, ...
If you like aerodynamics and REAL race cars, not tube-frame fiberglass crap doing 200mph circles... this shit is for you. If you happen to really like aero stuff... you will probably get a chubbie. I know I nearly did. Technical data overload, with tons of high res. pictures of the under body work, and chassis work that you would probably never otherwise see.
07-21-2011, 10:43 AM #29
I am in the planning and research stages of developing a GT style wing (supported not from the ends, but from the 1/3 width sections) which will incorporate a pneumatic cylinder to actuate and kick the rear wing up as an air brake, just like the Bugatti Veyron...
I know I'll need between a 2.5" to 4" bore piston with around 4" of travel to create 300+ lbs of force with between 50 & 100 psi. I love math, have I mentioned that lately.
... More nerd links to come later, SSC (Shelby Super Cars) is coming out with a badass new car, to hopefully top the Veyron Super Sport, and at nearly HALF the price, supposed to be twin turbo V8 I believe.
FYI as a reminder the Veyron SS ran 267 last year.
Oh yes, I'm also disassembling and rebuilding my Driftmotion .57 trim CT-26 w/ the Garrett compressor wheel. I have been taking plenty of very nice pictures, as well as documenting ALL the measurements. I'll post an incredibly in depth rebuild thread in a week or so.
07-29-2011, 12:21 AM #30
AWWW......all over my keyboard.The more you swear at it, the nicer it turns out!
Brad B, 83 P-type (R.I.P.), 85 P-type
PPG Certified refinisher...I make them new again!!
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