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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    molalla, oregon
    Posts
    110

    mysterious rear end clunk

    so whenever i punch the gas then let off I hear a loud and harsh sounding clunk coming from the back of my car somewhere, today only once when I backed up i heard a squeak squeak then that same clunk. then I started driving forward and it was fine. also this clunk still happens but not as harsh when i floor it and shift into second or third, could this be U joints? I've yet to test them to see for sure, i've only had this car for 5 days now and already replaced the alternator. this car was sitting on a farm for 3 years before i bought it and it has 470,000km-about 300,000 miles on it.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bowersville,GA
    Posts
    1,379
    I've went through some similar clunks in my rear end...Whenever I start off in first gear you hear it, at times it is a little bit of a violent jolt if. Then you hear the tap when each gear engages. I don't know what it is either???
    1985 Supra P Type w/ 7mgte and...lets keep it simple, a shitload of mods -SOLD
    2000 Toyota Celica GT-S---> *FOR SALE*
    2001 GSXR 750 - CRASHED
    2006 GSXR 750 - wOw fast -SOLD

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Unassigned Lands, Oklahoma
    Posts
    375
    Get it up on some jackstands and get underneath. Could be many things. Check the bolts/bushings on the control arms, drive shafts, shocks and their mounts/bolts, rear end mounts/bolts, etc, etc. You might also check the rear springs, on the bottom of each was a factory rubber/plastic insulator. These wear out and under accelation can cause a POP under accelation.
    83 P type


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Auburn, Washington
    Posts
    696
    You aren't alone my friend. I have the same issue. I thought for sure it was my U-joints. But with a new driveshaft I still get some clunk, but only on decel some times. Granted the new Driveshaft fixed a lot of my clunks, just not the one I am chasing now. It isn't my rear shafts either. I am thinking I have bad arm bushings, or rear bearings. Especially since mine seems to be coming from the right rear and not the left. I would check U-joints and trace it from the trans. back to the outer wheels. See if there is a lot of slop before the diff. engages when you turn the driveshaft by hand. Some play is normal, but not a lot. I can't get mine to make the sound on jack stands. I am about to strap my neighbor under the car and go for a drive and see what he sees, lol... If I trace mine down I will report back here with my findings.
    Silver 85 P-type Auto. 272,000 miles on chassis
    5mge built by Chimp, Bored .30 over

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Nova Scotia
    Posts
    2,327
    As these cars age, along with normal wear & tear, similar problems creep up...looking forward to`hearing all the analyses & solutions.

    '82L - Terracotta Warrior

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Rapid City SD (99%); Eagan, MN(1%)
    Posts
    180
    As a general consensus this seems like a VERY common problem with many people.

    Regarding the same issue
    Quote Originally Posted by Supradad
    Check your center drive line bearing.
    When they're bad they thump around.
    1984 P-Type, daily driver 82k GR2 EXCEL-G front & Gas-A-Just rear

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    molalla, oregon
    Posts
    110
    well just looking at the shock absorber bushings i can tell you they are all crap, the bushing is so worn out that the shock is sitting cockeyed on the bolt that it mounts on. And the front stut bars rattle when you go over bumps lol, nothing some poly bushings won't fix

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Spring Hill, Fl.
    Posts
    14,000
    if its the rear end and not the center support bearing, buy the crush sleeve eliminator kit for a toyota 4x4 7.5in diff. this will solve it. the problem usually is the crush sleeve has crushed too much over the years and removes the preload on the pinion bearings. this allows the pinion gear to move and have too much backlash. if your going this route, its a good time to install a new pinion seal in the diff while the pinion flange is off. the side seals are easy if you want to do those too so you know its all sealed up.
    william
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2042690/1 black 84 7mgte, MS2, truetrac, bbk, etc...soon to have 2jzgte and t56
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2117186/1 blue 85 beater
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2965297/1black 86 triple weber 6m in the works!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Kwazulu Natal, Durban, South Africa
    Posts
    363
    Quote Originally Posted by williamb82 View Post
    if its the rear end and not the center support bearing, buy the crush sleeve eliminator kit for a toyota 4x4 7.5in diff. this will solve it. the problem usually is the crush sleeve has crushed too much over the years and removes the preload on the pinion bearings. this allows the pinion gear to move and have too much backlash. if your going this route, its a good time to install a new pinion seal in the diff while the pinion flange is off. the side seals are easy if you want to do those too so you know its all sealed up.
    My car does this also. Has a fair amount of lash & clunks on take off, & gear changes, usually at a lower rpm, & the lower gears. Do you have a part number for this crush sleeve eliminator kit?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    2,047
    Check the diff bolts that hold it to the subframe. I ended up going to grade 8.8 bolts with spring lockwashers to prevent loosening.
    '84 P-type, 5spd, torrid red, black/grey leather
    Built 7MGTE (JE's, ARP studs, MHG), BOSS STG4 60mm, AEM standalone, R154, 2 1/2" IC and 3" turbo back - the works
    Coilovers, ROH wheels, 4 corner BBK, Konis, ADDCO bars, PST bushings etc. etc.

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