Toyota Celica Supra Forum banner

1985 P-type 6mge rebuild/mods

101K views 303 replies 39 participants last post by  MrBubbles00482 
#1 · (Edited)
NOW A 2JZGE SWAP
The 6mge is now scrapped....
Wreck and court stuff page 7
6mge rotating assembly problems page 10
2j swap starts page 11



Hello everyone.

I've been a member on here for a while, just browsing and learning. Probably the 10th forums I've signed up for. I acquired this car in a partial trade, getting rid of my motorcycle as I've grown tired of people not watching on the road for bikes.
I started out being a huge car audio enthusiast which eventually developed into a love for anything involving a vehicle, I've rebuilt one bike from the ground up, carbs on a few others.

Any way, it's an 85, 6mge, 5m intake with EGR and ECU. After about a month I ran into problems with the thermostat. Locked up, limped it home, replaced it and a line but developed an oil consumption issue which gained a rod knock. I'm assuming a spun bearing somewhere but I'll find out when I get into the block.

I was planning on going forged, boosting and megasquirt, but as that is a little out of my budget right now the build will consist of the following:

Depending on damage...
Main/rod bearings
New piston rings
New pistons (depending on cylinder wear..)
NGK plugs
NGK plug wires
Rabid chimp Cold air
Raptor racing faramic clutch
S3 short shifter
SS brake lines
SS clutch lines
Momo steering wheel and hub adapter
ARP head studs
EGR block of plates
Full bushing set
K-mac Camber caster plates (if budget permits)
AGX setup (if budget permits)
Ground control coilover kit
dobinson rear drop springs
Roll center adjusters
Electric fan conversion
New steering rack
Rear camber mod (maybe..)
LED turns/reverse/break lights

Some of that list is possibilities...it just depends on how much of my budget goes to the motor...

Multimedia (This is where it gets fun seeing as I'm a car audio installer)
Kenwood KDC-543u headunit (front, rear, sub output. Auxilary and USB input)
Eclipse SP-5000 components (front)
Eclipse SP-6500 components (rear)
Sundown sax 100.4 4 channel (b revision)(Will be running a passive setup)
Knukonceptz 4 Channel 6 shielded RCA's
Some plastic's wrapped in blue vinyl
Fiberglass door pods to accommodate 5.25" components
Crimestopper sp-600 2-way paging alarm/keyless entry/remote start
Omega window control modules (up, and down function)
Might do another window control module for the sunroof
POSSIBLE carputer, just depends if I can find a monitor I like to fit the car. I have a left over carputer from my last audio car which consists of a Intel DJ41MJ micro ITX motherboard Intel core 2 duo processor, 4gigs of ram, 80gb HDD, USB wireless card, Microsoft ARC wireless keyboard and mouse and an OPUS 250w DC-DC vehicle intelligent power supply

Pics.
Day of purchase at the insurance company


Stripping inside








Since the last pic the headlights, fog lights, corner markers, grill, intake/MAF, mechanical fan, and some other bits and pieces have been taken off. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the car on stands and drain the radiator and pull it along with the hoses and start disassembling the intake, and get all the accessories off the front of the motor.
 
See less See more
5
#2 ·
Got some more progress done.

All accessories are off minus the AC compressor. Engine harness is out along with ECU, intake is off. Just need to pull fuel lines, EGR, exhaust, AC, and clutch lines along with a few more harness plugs and I should be good to pull.

My injector connectors were crap, I think all but one broke as I tried to remove the metal tang that holds them on. Anyone know where to get new pigtails?
Also I've been looking for cast oversized pistons, and rockauto is where I've been looking. Their price lists as 123$ and some change for +.40 over, anyone had any experience with these? They even list them as a set for that price, 123$ for a set of 6?

anyway here are some pics.









 
#3 ·
No love for a new member doing his first motor rebuild?

Stripped, cleaned, and re-wrapped the engine harness. Had to repair 2 wires and 3 plugs. Cylinder one injector plug, and both plugs leading to the thermostat housing.

Got my shop cleaned up to where I can use our back garage/car door. Hopefully pulling motor Saturday.

Yucky 26 year old harness, brittle loom and tape



Materials $20


Stripped, cleaned and repaired


Nice and clean wire harness


:zzzzz:
 
#9 ·
Thanks, There will be a lot of that going on, cleaning, re-looming. The hole engine bay harness will get the same treatment.

Valve covers, head, block, intake and timing cover will be painted. Cut out to show the timing gears will be made and gears will be painted. Brake booster needs attention (paint). Pretty much everything will be addressed. The motor pieces will be taken to the machine shop to be hot tanked so I can paint them. The red shit all over the motor is where the PO flushed the heater core and got it every where....

As for the car, it is damn near flawless. Only issues are the front bumper needs attention...it's been scuffed and or faded to the yellow (which seems common for these cars), the rear passenger fender has minimal rust, and the bottom driver side of the lower quarter (where the side skirt would meet the door) has some rust.

i am very very impressed!!! great job man! keep up the awesome work :)
Thanks man!

Beautiful car! Why no exhaust mods? (unless I skimmed over that by accident). Your engine needs moar header. And 2.5" piping. And magnaflow muffler. Also an HKS MHG would go nicely with those studs... especially if you're going to run larger pistons which are most likely the larger dome size instead of the stock 6MGE dome size (equivalent to the lower compression 8.8:1 5MGE)... you'd be running around 210/215psi per cylinder with a composite head gasket, 230psi with a 1.2mm MHG. I'm running .030" over on mine, and I popped a cheapo ebay composite gasket at 5,000 miles lol
Exhaust is going to be a maybe...it all depends on the extent of damage done to the motor. The head will need a rebuild I'm sure, and the block I'll find out when I get it out of the car. I plan to run a MHG and 2.5" piping (local shop) the cat has previously been removed and replaced with a test pipe (arkansas for the win, no smog laws haha) so if I don't do a header it will be atleast 2.5" pipe from the stock manifold back into a magnaflow.

Only reason CAI is a must is because my tube from the intake to MAF is cracked to shit, so I figured why not do a full CAI to the fender while im at it.

sounds good. as for the injector clips. instead of new pigtails, which you could get of fthe shelf at autozone. the injector clips have a part number on them. so do all of the plastic clips. you can buy just the plastic clip from toyota with that part number and then pull your old plastic clip off the pins, and slide the pins into the new plastic clip. the plastic clips are like $4-8 each depending on what connector its for.
William this a big help. All my clips are fine except for the injectors. When I meant pigtail, I meant clip with two wire leads coming off, and autozone has that? Didn't figure they would carry harness specific parts like that. I'm off work Thursday so hopefully I can get to Toyota to get new clips.
 
#7 ·
Beautiful car! Why no exhaust mods? (unless I skimmed over that by accident). Your engine needs moar header. And 2.5" piping. And magnaflow muffler. Also an HKS MHG would go nicely with those studs... especially if you're going to run larger pistons which are most likely the larger dome size instead of the stock 6MGE dome size (equivalent to the lower compression 8.8:1 5MGE)... you'd be running around 210/215psi per cylinder with a composite head gasket, 230psi with a 1.2mm MHG. I'm running .030" over on mine, and I popped a cheapo ebay composite gasket at 5,000 miles lol
 
#8 ·
sounds good. as for the injector clips. instead of new pigtails, which you could get of fthe shelf at autozone. the injector clips have a part number on them. so do all of the plastic clips. you can buy just the plastic clip from toyota with that part number and then pull your old plastic clip off the pins, and slide the pins into the new plastic clip. the plastic clips are like $4-8 each depending on what connector its for.
 
#10 ·
Okay, I need some advice.

I have the head coming off this afternoon, and I'll be taking it to the machine shop shortly. Going to go ahead and replace valve seals and springs.

Question is, replace valves? I can get OE valve from rock auto for 100$ for a set of 12. What about going with rabid chimp oversized valves? Setup will be full CAI, stock manifold (unless I can afford a header), 2.5 manifold back into a magnaflow.

I've talked to a few people and they said I won't see any gain unless I port and polish the head and intake.

Any input would be great. My budget has expanded a little bit so I'm looking into more motor mods I can do staying NA.
 
#15 ·
Okay, I need some advice.

I have the head coming off this afternoon, and I'll be taking it to the machine shop shortly. Going to go ahead and replace valve seals and springs.

Question is, replace valves? I can get OE valve from rock auto for 100$ for a set of 12. What about going with rabid chimp oversized valves? Setup will be full CAI, stock manifold (unless I can afford a header), 2.5 manifold back into a magnaflow.

I've talked to a few people and they said I won't see any gain unless I port and polish the head and intake.

Any input would be great. My budget has expanded a little bit so I'm looking into more motor mods I can do staying NA.
Just a good feeling to seeing another Supra getting back on the streets! Do you think you are going to be able port/polish the head? I personally would get the 1mm oversized valves if you do, you may want some boost a few years from now, then you can do the manifold if you are, and no need to take off the head now! We don't have the heads those lucky 7M guys do. They try not to rub in the fact of twice the valves, but I know what the're thinking...:eekfacepalm: J/K Subscribed!
 
#11 ·
Well not much progress the past day or so, working on getting my garage door springs hooked up which it should be done in the morning.

Tomorrow I'm: Pulling the head, exhaust manifold, disconnecting main fuel bracket from block, disconnecting clutch release cylinder, back up lights plug, pretty much getting it ready to pull friday minus the drive shaft (which I might go ahead and get out as the swing bearing needs replacing)

BUT, here are some pics to entertain. What I'm dealing with as far as cleaning. Keep in mind this is just outside work, everything will be hot tanked to clean the rust/impurities from the inside before paint.

Block and head will be a similar color to the rear thermo housing color (lightish silver) unless I get frisky at the paint store and go crazy....Ford blue anyone? lol
Head will be silver, valve covers matching blue to the car, Lower intake silver, upper matching blue, raised portion on the valve covers and upper intake will be sanded and polished. New alt will be installed, power steering will be cleaned and resevior polished, AC compressor will just be cleaned.

Rear thermo housing wire wheeled next the the thermostat cover.


Both wire wheeled next the lower intake....lol.....
 
#12 ·
looking good! lots of hard work going on here. have fun wire wheel-n that lower intake.... ;) not fun trust me been there done that lol. looking forward to updates and more pictures :)
 
#14 ·
Thanks man, I've about got the garage door hooked up on my dads shop. It's an old 80's early 90's flat door that pushes out and slides up with the help of springs, so it's a pain in the ass to get adjusted and what not.

On the intake and other pieces I'm just going to take them to the machine shop and get them hot tanked. With stuff like that I'd just rather pay to have them cleaned then take more time. I have no transportation as my 92 cutlass dropped a valve last week so this is a quick ordeal.

sorry cant really give advice on the valve question, but i am impressed with your level of tenacity! im kind of inspired to jump into my car as you have yours.. although here in WI we still have freezing temperatures and a lot of snow on the ground... so i will be waiting.. but nonetheless keep up the good work!
Thanks bro! And go for it! Just be patient and remember the service manual is your friend. I'm 20 years old and have learned everything I know from reading on line/forums and trial and error. Just be patient and very thorough and you should be fine.
 
#13 ·
sorry cant really give advice on the valve question, but i am impressed with your level of tenacity! im kind of inspired to jump into my car as you have yours.. although here in WI we still have freezing temperatures and a lot of snow on the ground... so i will be waiting.. but nonetheless keep up the good work!
 
#17 ·
Wow had no idea your future turbo setup would have that much boost, then it would make sense to hold off for now, work some bugs out, you wouldn't wanna drive around with a low comp engine and no turbo! Whatever path for now, I know how much it sucks to have your backup car take a crap, then pressures you into rushing the build, or fixing the broken parts, so keep that in mind, and stay meticulous! Your polished parts are night and day. That engine will pay you back.
 
#19 ·
Nice work you've done man hope everything goes well finishing up sounds like you know what your doing get those pictures up! LOL
 
#20 ·
Sorry about no pics last night, it was a long day and I smashed my right hand pretty hard on the motor. Everytime we would lift up with the picker the driver side mount would get hung, so I pryed up with a 2' long flat blade and WHAM...my knuckles went straight into the motor mount...lol.

Anyway, all valves are good from me looking at them, just carbon build up. Just gonna do new springs and stem seals. Need new cam tower (I guess thats what it is, where the upper head housing that hold the cam bolts to the lower part of the head) gaskets as they are leakering.

On the block, my oil pan is leaking hardcore, wasn't even a gasket, just high heat sealer. Cylinder 4 and 5 broke rings, but cylinder wear looks minimal so hopefully I can have new rings installed and have everything re-conditioned.

Didn't get to see what the knocking was, oil pan will come off today. Gotta adjust my engine stand so I can get the transmission braces off.

Oh ya, and the rear differential is leaking somewhere. There is shit all over it.
Pics

Head off




motor out






Tranny and other parts
 
#21 ·
awesome work man :) cant wait to see more progress :) and i know how much it hurts to smash your hand off the motor. been there done that like a million times hahaha. hope your having fun, and keep taking lots of pictures its awesome! :thumbsup:
 
#22 ·
Oh thats lame you should have a helper when doing that fun stuff. Seems like the engine is good under there tho good luck with the rest of the build keep up the progress and moar pictures!
 
#23 ·
There is no oil pan gasket on 85 and up Supra engines, it is factory silicone. With the cam tower gaskets, be sure to get the METAL ones, or they will leak again. I think felpro actually made those gaskets correctly? Anyway, hope that helps. Be careful, and try to look where your hands are going to go if a tool slips, so you can prepare with gloves, padding, or a better tool. :)
 
#24 ·
Thanks for the tip. Just kinda through me off at first. I'll probably contact George @ raptorracing to see if he can find me some. He's been a great help so far.

awesome work man :) cant wait to see more progress :) and i know how much it hurts to smash your hand off the motor. been there done that like a million times hahaha. hope your having fun, and keep taking lots of pictures its awesome! :thumbsup:
Thanks man!

Oh thats lame you should have a helper when doing that fun stuff. Seems like the engine is good under there tho good luck with the rest of the build keep up the progress and moar pictures!
I had two, lol. I was on one motor mount, friend on the other mount, one on the lift. One mount would come loose, other would hang up, so lots of wiggling/screw driver then WHAM. not much I could do.








Oh ya....
Spun rod bearing on #3 cylinder. Others seem to be in decent shape.
Pics in a little bit.
 
#25 ·
Well today was really a cleaning day, but I did find my bottom end problem.

Started off with then engine bay, then other pieces.

Dirty






Clean(ish)






Transmission mounting brackets


More wire wheeled stuff that will be painted. PS pump reservoir and the inside of the rear upper timing cover are soaking in simple green


Spun rod bearing. Found on #3 cylinder



Going to get brake cleaner tomorrow for more cleaning.
 
#27 ·
Thanks man, I'm hoping to have this back on the road in a months time starting Tomorrow. Gonna be a dad in around a month and my only transportation is a gsxr 750...lol. I did email George @ raptorracing with a parts list and he said he would see if he had it all tomorrow, so hopefully I can get some stuff on the way.

Got some wire body harness cleaned up, also pressure washed the carpet...





Dirty carpet






 
#28 ·
very very impressive man, i am loving this build. gsxr 750 eh..hmmmm pictures? lol. great work dude! i cant wait to see more! and G at raptor is amazing. great guy, good luck with the rest as always looking sweet and great attention to the small little details.
 
#29 ·
It's a 1994 gsxr 750w. Got it not running, all it had was full exhaust no jetting to compensate for fuel. So far I've done, clutch plates and springs, stage 3 factory pro jet kit, stage 3 individual filters, flush mount turns, new choke cable, fixed headlight switch, new tail light. Just need to sync the carbs.

OH, and when I put the head back on, the front where it takes high heat sealer and also for the oil pan, I have some yamalube crank case sealer left over from my first bike where I rebuilt the transmission, will that work okay?





I'll post a pic of the hole bike tomorrow, never got shots of it put back together.
 
#30 ·
very nice bike man :) and i am not to sure about the yamalube, could always try it right?? i have used it on my yamaha 250 motto bike. worked good. sorry i couldnt help ya out more dude.
 
#31 ·
Well I mean the stuff is used to seal the upper and lower crankcase's together on motorcycles so I'm sure it will work.

Mr gasket oil filter relocation kit got here today, harness bar (yes I bought it) shipped out today (thanks Jeff), ordered H4/HID conversion headlight housings. Tomorrow I'm ordering 4 point 2" camlock harness's and my foglight HID's (H3 8000k 55w ballast's)

Today I got the battery tray in, wired up the battery and finished cleaning wires, ran 4 gauge wire for my sundown 100.4 4 channel amp, wired the radio plug, cleaned the inside, glued wood mounts to the floor for the amp to screw through so it doesn't screw into the gas tank, and put the carpet back in.

Tomorrow - Finish amplifier install (run new speaker wire, ground wire, and wire up) Cut holes and install rear components, cut and install front components, wire window control modules (up and down) and find all the wires for the alarm install when it gets here.

Pics

Item's going in


Clean (trust me it was worse, this is tolerable)




Knukonceptz 4-channel RCA's
These some of the BEST RCA's on the market. These are their Krystal clear series cables, 4 different shields on each wire into one large case (size of 4 gauge power wire) Would recommend to EVERYONE, this company is legit.


Battery in and cleaned up (slightly) and fuse holder for amp


Carpet back in




Mr gasket kit


More tomorrow, I'm off work and all I have going on is a Wic appointment with the baby momma.
 
#32 ·
your a busy man, loving the work, getting kinda jealous :p now its time for you to make a re-production of that harness bad and sell it to me or take lots of pictures and send them to me so i can copy it ;) very nice work man, its wicked to see your car come back together. my cars been out for a year and 2 months.... ughh... oh well good luck bro :)
 
#33 ·
Thanks man, got some more done tonight. Amp and radio are in along with front door speakers.

Now, to fit the speaker in the driver door I had to relocate the "toyota door module". Is this what controls the dome lights/door triggers? Because it has an up arrow on it and I didn't mount it perfectly up and now my dome light won't go off.

Here are some pics of today's progress

Door panels off to get new vinyl




Wrapped


Eclipse SP5000 components in the front doors






Amplifier install


Radio in


Night shot



I will admit, my OCD was slipping today. Working on this so much, and getting stuff done so fast is taking it's tole. My back is killing me, I'm exhausted, and now I'm almost to the point of waiting on parts to get here from Raptor racing...which aren't even on the way yet...
 
#37 ·
Not as bomb as my crown royal shift boot lol but is sick if true
Lol thanks guys, my sister owns a bar and she had an extra beer tap. This will be used for just shits and giggles, I'll keep the stock knob in the car when I go sliding.

I started installing the rear speakers yesterday but broke my only metal cutting blade so I have to finish trimming out behind the rear side panels. Alarm will be here Tuesday, Harnessbar Wednesday, HID conversion headlights Wednesday. My 8000k HID 55w ballast kit is on back order along with H3 8000k 55w ballast fog light kit.

I'll get some more pics up tonight.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top