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Thread: CLToy 1984 P-Type Restoration...
03-20-2017, 01:01 AM #291
You should be able to put the quik latches in the same spot as the hood pins you are already running with minimal mods to the stock hood. Those + the stock latch should work fine and would take less fab work to get working over two aerocatch mounts i bet. You could also belt and suspenders the thing and run all 3 types of hold downs hehe
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03-20-2017, 03:03 PM #292
I wouldn't run the aerocatches where I have them without the stock latch or something else up front. Maybe the heavier Advan carbon hood is stiff enough to get away with it, but definitely not on my 13lb CFX hood.Black 86 mk2 Project Car
New SDR 86 mk2 Daily User, Highway Cruiser AND Parking Lot Abuser in the works!
04-21-2017, 12:26 AM #293
R154 Transmission swap and hydraulic release bearing...
Well, I guess its long past time for an update. I have been working on getting the Supra its next big upgrade(s), depending on how you see this. It’s finally time for the r154!! I know that there are other threads that cover this topic (http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/sh...teup-with-pics) but with the hydraulic bearing installation, I think this should help someone else that wants to do this swap. I have researched weeks and spent hours compiling all this information. I welcome other comments or suggestions and hope that this provides guidance for others when they want to give this a try.
The W58 is a wonderful transmission, but I am looking for a more robust drivetrain to start stressing all those forged internals I paid for so long ago. I have had parts laying around and finally got tired of seeing a r154 laying on the floor of the shop.
Some new goodies…
So after getting the W58 down out of the way (see post #280), it was time to make room in the transmission tunnel for the new equipment.
This truly is the easiest method. It was discussed by William and John and this small $20 hydraulic jack was worth every penny for this job. There were multiple test fits and the use of whiteout to mark the locations where the tunnel should be widened. Then reinstall the crossmember, to keep the mounting points from moving, and then press the tunnel outward. I would leave it pressed for 10-15 min per time and it would not spring back so much and I would move to the next section. This was needed in 2-3 spots to make room.
Next was the hydraulic bearing. Aaron at Driftmotion sold me this a couple Black Friday’s ago…but who is counting…and it comes with shims and a couple fittings; however, it does not come with the fitting we need. Be sure to purchase, from SummitRacing or other parts location, a female M10x1.0 inverted flare fitting to -3AN male end. This allowed me to unscrew the slave cylinder and then have the correct fitting to the hydraulic throwout bearing line. I wish this was included…but this is a heads up.
Earl's Performance Brake Adapters 989538ERL
I was told that once the bearing is in place, the lines would provide enough support to hold the bearing stationary. IMO, this is a bad idea. With the planned track and autox driving, not to mention piece of mind, I wanted a bracket to hold everything in place. So I got a thin piece of steel, some round stock and used my plasma cutter, drill, welder, engine paint, and the original bolts/location of the slave fork. I drilled all the way through the plate and welded at both the top and bottom to ensure the post would not move.
During a test fitment in the tunnel…
There is plenty of clearance for the bearing and the post will not interfere with clutch operation…
Then I wrapped the lines with some old hose to protect the braided lines from any trauma and fraying.
You can see the two hoses, one attaches to the slave cylinder hose and the other is the bleeder valve.
Driftmotion sells the bearing here:
*** Setting the bearing clearance ***
The most important part is setting the correct depth of the bearing. There are two ways to do this and I did it both ways since this was new to me….just to try to get it correct.
It should have 0.15 to 0.2 inches. You need the clutch to both fully engage and yet be able to shift smoothly.
1. clutchheight sitting on table fully assembled from fingers to bottom of flywheel
2. bellhousing to bearing face
3. crank face to block
(1 + 3) - 2 = goal of 0.15 to 0.2 inches
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GfmRVWjWmVg&t=342s (4’25” starts demo)
mount clutch + bellhousing on engine
1. Bellhousing to fingers of clutch with plate installed (don’t forget to install that thin plate with the bellhousing as this is approximately 0.1 inches that should not be omitted!)
2. Face of bearing to transmission surface = 3.99
1 – 2 = goal of 0.15 to 0.2 inches
If you are precise enough, you will get the right number of shims and spacing with both methods.
Also important to note that there are special shortened length ARP fasteners, sold by Driftmotion, IIRC for the OSGiken flywheel. I chased the threads and cleaned them out. Many people have had issue with the bolts actually coming loose. This could be due to oil residue left inside the crank bolt holes. If you do not remove the oil, the thread sealer will not set correctly. There is blue thread locker on the bolt with ARP assembly lube at the top of the bolt against the flywheel. Torque to spec. (70 ft-lbs IIRC, but don’t hold me to that).
Here is my OSGiken TR2CD clutch/flywheel mounted on the crank…
Just in case you need a quick install video…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4VEdvtrg7A (Nevermind the Mazda…this will help you understand a twin disc and the basic installation)
Now, I would love to say that I slid the r154 right on but even when using a W58 spline tool, a friend and myself could not wiggle that transmission through to the throwout bearing…it would get stuck. So what I had to do was to try to disassemble the clutch, use a sharpie pen and write the torque sequence on the clutch cover, slide all the plates onto the transmission, install the spline into the throwout bearing, and then assemble the clutch from those two small access holes. What a nightmare to turn the crank so many times just to get the clutch plate torqued down completely! I was sore for days.
Once I had the clutch bolted in and the bellhousing bolted to the engine, I had to devise a way to upgrade the crossmember. I did not have an automatic crossmember, but that is OK. I took the OEM transmission mount off the r154, used a sawsaw to cut the top mounting plate from the mount and bolted it to the GM poly mount. I found out that if I move the holes to the back of the crossmember (you have to drill holes anyway to use this GM poly mount) that the manual crossmember will work just fine.
There is a better thread to explain what is involved:
Now, with the transmission in place, it was time to install the starter with that pesky upper bolt that everyone hates! What I did was weld the upper nut to the starter flange, then just use long extensions to install that bolt….so much easier!
Now I need a driveshaft…
I own Armin’s old 1JZ supra and have been using this car for the many unique and upgraded parts on this and two other Supra builds. This Supra has his upgraded differential but I was not guaranteed that his driveshaft would be the correct length. However, I was lucky enough to have the correct length driveshaft!! So after removing the rear differential, I installed the shaft and reinstalled the diff.
With the driveline back together, it was time to bleed the clutch, with some help needed here, and wire in the reverse lights. I used a weather pack connector in case I have to disconnect this wiring in the future.
With much of the work completed from under the Supra, there are still a couple items inside. You have to extend the shifter housing hole in the floor pan back approximately 1.5 inches. This prevents the OEM rubber boot from covering the hole and I wanted to fabricate a simple cover.
So I had some thin plate laying around and did some simple measurements and cut out a panel:
I clearanced the shifter, made the bolt holes line up, and then left it a little wider so I could form it to the tunnel…
I then used some gray engine paint (I know its not black, it’s hidden! Haha) and cut some silicon vacuum tubing to make a little better seal around the shifter…
Installed in place…
** Overall Impressions …
I am still trying to get some easy miles on this clutch, but the transmission and driveshaft feel so much more solid. I was worried how well the bearing would work. I started the car on the lift and had a friend easily drive the car while suspended in air and see the operation look very normal. So I lowered the Supra, hopped in and put it in reverse. I loved hearing the slight chatter of the plates….the clutch is full disengaged! The pedal feel is almost identical to OEM pressure plate feel…It is very streetable and is fun to drive. I should have done this years ago. I cant wait to get some miles on it and turn up the boost!!
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04-21-2017, 12:26 AM #294
* One issue that remains…My connector for the speedo gear comes straight out from the transmission. Some others have a 90 degree bend. Fact is, I am unable to get my OEM speedometer to work correctly without a longer cable…if anyone can help, please let me know.
AEM makes very low profile gauges now. Not only that, they also make a GPS speedometer gauge. I have some fun plans with this gauge but since I could not connect my OEM speedometer cable, this is really handy now!
I removed the upper column cover and marked where this should be installed…
Bolted the gauge to the panel…
Zip-tied the wires tight, ran them down out of the way of the steering column. I installed the GPS sensor on the dash above the cluster. I pulled other 0-5v wires for future MegaSquirt datalogging and put the interior back together…
The GPS gauge is nice. It doesn’t obstruct a lot but this was the easiest place to install and yet still use the gauge. I have plans for a 3rd gauge on the a-pillar, so this location will have to do. You can see the GPS sensor on the dash. It works well here and had to be mounted indoors. I will use some 3M double sided tape likely to secure it flat.
04-21-2017, 12:54 AM #295
Awesome write up! I seem to recall having to work through those 2 inspection holes in the R154 also. Maybe Toyota knew some of the tightening would be done after installing the tranny to motor.
I really like your upgrade to the hydraulic bearing with that pin/bracket. Is the concern if perhaps the throw out bearing seizes or somehow binds, then the oil lines get twisted? Regardless, you made a nice improvement!
Look forward to more reviews on this setup.
04-21-2017, 01:03 AM #296
04-21-2017, 09:27 AM #297
04-21-2017, 01:27 PM #298
The speedometer cable you can reuse the stock Mk2 elbow and cable. It should all connect right up.
BTW R154s are like boats. The happiest days of your life is when you get it and the day you get rid of it
04-21-2017, 05:18 PM #299
Like a boat.....ROFL that is good....it seems like a necessary evil due to the abuse I will be putting this driveline under, however. The W58 just didn't like boost.
04-21-2017, 06:42 PM #300
Nice work !What kind of gauges are you using ?Hidden Content
1985 Silver Celica Supra Hardtop
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