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Thread: CLToy 1984 P-Type Restoration...
03-19-2011, 09:11 PM #1
CLToy 1984 P-Type Restoration...
Being an avid fan of the MK2 supra, I never need an excuse to find another. Many of you know that I currently have a 1982 L-type with a 1JZ swap (Build thread here). I am never getting rid of this family heirloom and will continue to work on it to make it as quick and clean as possible. I have so much money and time, not to mention a collector car Hagerty Insurance policy, put into this supra that I keep it as a garage queen. I always wanted to find another MK2 to use as a daily driver. EUREKA !! Enter the 1984 P-Type.
My intentions for this car are to keep it mostly stock with the exception of intake & exhaust upgrades, when they are eventually needed, and put a CD player/Sirius radio in it for trips. My other ride is a 2007 Toyota Tundra so this could actually pay for itself in 2 years if gas prices continue to rise…but who needs the excuse to own another supra anyway.
This was for sale on this forum and is overall a clean car with seemingly very few major issues. Below are a few pics to get us started.
A few exterior shots
Getting it on my trailer...my fiancee snapping some quick first shots.
…and a few interior shots
Pretty clean…but what about the engine bay…
Ouch! Cam tower gaskets are screaming!
After further evaluation, I need to repair the following:
• Cam tower gaskets + major tune-up with all fluids changed/flushed
• Power steering rack and pinion +/- power steering pump
• DVV valve clicking
• Blower motor sounds loud and my need replaced
• Cruise control does not work
• Passenger side headlight does not raise or lower - motor needs replaced
• Passenger side headlight whisker broken
• A/C does not work
• Couple of rust spots on the hatch and sunroof
Let’s hope that completes the punch list…time will tell. I would like to give a shout-out to Mark at Vancouver Toyota. He has already been so helpful and hooked me up with most parts needed to complete the punch list. Other items for the major tune-up were purchased from RockAuto.com. Their prices on certain items are excellent and will work great when oem parts get expensive. (I should get a percentage or a kick-back for the advertising!)
Once the supra was sitting safe in the garage, I pulled the upper timing cover…
Now, I must let you know that not only am I excited to get this as a daily driver, but this is supra is also going to teach me to better work on engines. I want to do as much of the work myself as I can. I have always done simple repairs like brakes, suspension, fluid changes, etc… but I want to learn more (especially after my last engine swap fiasco!). I am sure that I will make some mistakes along the way and will ask for help from time to time…please feel free to offer your opinions and constructive criticism.
As you can tell, this supra was not very well maintained under the hood…it has the original spark plug wires from 1984 and who knows how long the spark plugs have been in there. It took a breaker bar and socket to crank the spark plugs out. Every one of them were burned down to the white jacket. I am very surprised that this car even ran, let alone idles and drives very smoothly! All were dry and white coated except for cylinder #4…which was dripping in oil. When I pulled out that plug, the entire socket became wet.
My biggest concern at this point is whether or not I need to change the head gasket.
I purchased a leak down tester and, after using brake cleaner to find the timing marks, all plugs pulled, I cranked the engine to TDC on cylinder #1, and hooked up the tester.
Cylinder #1: not bad, looking and listening to where the air is coming from … pulled the oil dipstick and the tone changed…so coming from the oil pan...but is this really that bad at this percentage?
Now, being completely new at this, I did not know how to reliably know how to get all other cylinders to TDC for the test, so I left the crank alone (at TDC on #1) and went 1 through 6. I know that it probably makes the test unreliable for other cylinders but I opened the radiator to see if any bubbles were present to clue me in that I needed to change the head gasket…no air leaks in the radiator on all cylinders.
Cylinder #2 must have had the exhaust valves wide open as the leak was horrible and air flow didn’t change once I opened the throttle body…but no radiator bubbles.
Cylinder 4 was the one that was dripping wet and I wanted to see if the leak was bad. Here is the test set to #1 TDC
Cylinder 5 (TDC on cylinder 1)
IIRC, Cylinder 6 was low as the intake valve was open as air sounds changed when I opened the throttle body.
I am encouraged that as neglected as this engine bay appears, that I may not need to change the head gasket. What do you guys think…do I have enough information to just do cam tower gaskets, valve seals, etc and re-torque the current head gasket, or just leave the dang thing alone?
I purchased a replacement headlight motor from a member on the forum a while ago (I think it was you Bob Shapton…thanks!) and I wanted to swap it out. I looked at the Chilton and Haynes manual….seems easy enough…all except for the connector. I can’t get the dang thing apart.
Does that tab get pushed down to release or need pryed upward to release? I have used a small screwdriver and have tugged on it so much that I will break it for sure until I know which way it should be.
So please let me know how to separate this connector. Thanks all.
More to come…stay tuned!
Last edited by CLToy; 03-20-2011 at 12:01 AM.
03-19-2011, 09:43 PM #2
Nice.. Surprising that the exterior and interior are mint, and the engine & bay suffered some neglect.
I think this post is going to be a real inspiration for the new supra owners, with the "what's first" questions.. Confirm compression, refresh spark, fuel & air, and check and repair seals. A few minor bolt-ons for fun, and you can show that these aging beauties can be reliable daily drivers.
Looks like you got some cleaning ahead of you. As for the connector, I just checked my setup, I don't even have that one LOL.. I don't remember cutting it off or anything, but my motors don't work, so I'm not sure.
03-19-2011, 10:01 PM #3
03-20-2011, 12:18 AM #4
I was drooling...
until I saw the engine
as for the headlight motor, I just went and looked at mine (damn its fvuckin storming outside) and I don't have that plug either. I have one that looks just like it except white. it has a loop that goes around a nipple I guess you can call it(i can get a pic tomorrow). if it is the same style as mine, then you should be able to pull it off as it. And just FYI, I havent seen a single round plug on my car that had a "push tab" yet.
Something just dawned on me... why don't you take a look at the other side?Nick R. Goss.
83 Supra P-Type Bone Stock Beater (gone)
03-20-2011, 01:05 AM #5
I have that white connector with loop too...I think I will pry up a little harder...just hoping I don't mess up the connector. Thanks for looking.
Plenty of views and nobody is screaming "change the head gasket!"...must be OK to take the gamble of just leaving it alone and only change the other gaskets.
03-20-2011, 02:11 AM #6
03-20-2011, 03:05 AM #7
Honestly, I do not know what that wire feeds, yet. I have not owned it long. I did notice a small hanging pair of toggle switches above my right shin...maybe that was it. I am not sure if the former owner had aftermarket fog lights or what...it will be coming out for sure.
No, the other plug is the same. I didnt want to mess it up trying to pull it apart as well. No worries, I will tug more on the connector tomorrow and try to get the headlight to raise and retract on its own.
05-26-2011, 12:33 AM #8
A rebuild close to complete...
Time for an update…
I have worked many long hours and spent about as much time reading as I did wrenching. Anyone that knows me, knows that I pay attention to details and want to make sure that when I do this, I do it right.
(Summary of items replaced)
• Cam tower gaskets
• Cam shaft seals/gaskets
• Valve cover gaskets
• DVV valve (valve assy, magnet #88690-14530)
• Blower motor assembly
• A laundry list of hoses
• Radiator and cap
• Water pump
• Oxygen sensor
• Felpro complete gasket set
• Air filter
• All new Gates belts, timing and accessories
• Distributor cap and rotor
• Timing belt tensioner
• NGK Spark plugs / NGK wires
• Power steering pump
• Remanufactured rack and pinion unit
• A/C compressor
• A bunch of misc items and replacement fluids
The first owner ripped out all his audio equipment, minus sub-par high-end speakers. So the tape deck had to go. I purchased a Clarion CZ501head unit with built-in Bluetooth. It also is Sirius and HD radio ready.
I installed the radio and ran the Sirius SC-C1 module wires into the glove box so that I could swap the Sirius module back and forth from my Tundra and Supra when desired. The satellite antenna was placed on the passenger side corner of the dash. This leaves a simple, clean install that does not damage the interior.
I just returned from the NE PA meet and can comment on this unit. I listen to Sirius radio exclusively and the unit had a difficult time accessing the module. I believe that this head unit may be defective as it initializes slow and changes channels slow. When tuned into a station, the reception is flawless and clear.
I will say this, being an audiophile, I am having a difficult time not installing an amplifier and subwoofer system…Honestly, a small sub will be installed in the future to balance out the high end.
Now, on to the DVV valve. That little thing will drive you crazy! I would have taken a picture but I was too busy being a contortionist laying on my back, front seat out, feet in back seat and working under the dash to get this replaced. Once installed, no more clicking! Nice.
The evening before leaving for the NE meet, I was on my way home, then there was a burning smell and the blower quit working (barely runs and makes noise more than moves air, lol). I am sure that I need a blower motor replacement....lucky me I have a new motor (thanks again, Mark). I had more difficulty replacing this then needed.
I took about 6 bolts and a couple clips out to get the blower housing to 'wiggle' so that when I took out those 3 main bolts holding the motor in, I could work the motor assembly out of the housing. Wow what a mess that was, scrubbing those fins (Used a small engine brush from a Harbor Freight kit). Anyway, works like a charm now.
This was the biggest issue after the purchase. I used several cans of brake cleaner as I pulled items apart. When possible, I scrubbed items in the basin and put back in the engine bay clean. I will say that without this site and friends to contact, this would have been 100x more difficult. If you want to do this job yourself, use the following references:
- Tanya’s Thread (pics are there, just click the broken links)
- Suprabee’s Thread
- CanuckDave’ s Thread
Paying homage to CS.com. This being my first engine repair, I had the workshop computer fired up for a step by step guide!
If you plan on doing the valve stem seals, there are a few tools that can make your life easier:
- Air compressor trick setting piston to TDC, use spark plug adapter fitting, I used 90psi of compressed air to hold valves in place as I removed springs/retainers/keepers in order to get to the valve seal
- Tools needed to Remove / Install springs, retainers, and keepers in order to get to the valve seals
o Tool 1: KD 2078 is the standard spring compressor most commonly used for this job. I actually did not use this but for installation only of 2 springs. My air pressure must have been getting low and the valve started moving when using the first tool…so I compressed the spring and set it on the head and fumbled with the keepers…tool #2 is the bomb!
o Tool 2 is item number Lisle 36200 and is extremely easy to use. Simply use the base only to press down on the spring (I did not even hit with a hammer…just lean in and move the tool from side to side so the keepers get sucked into the magnetic section and the spring, retainer, and keepers are removed…easy as that! To install, just put on the black install section and line up the keepers on the retainer/spring and push down….presto, no fumbling with keepers.
o Tool 3 are a set of valve seal pliers (SP tools 92350). Yes, you can use needle nose but lets do this right people! This tool made it easy to grab the seal and remove. Don’t forget to scrape with fingernail as there are small pieces of rubber seal hiding in there. This tool also allows you to press against the new seal firmly and evenly to get it seated properly.
- Since I did not have any part of the head/cam towers resurfaced, I used copper spray on just about every gasket I replaced before installation. (I know Mark, I didn’t have to do that…just being thorough.)
First start scared the crap outta me. Turned the key and the engine fired right up, no hesitation! …then the ‘clicking’. I bled the lifters very well using 5w30 dino and put them in the head. I had a long delay getting finished valve covers shipped to me and even though I used lots of assembly lube, I thought this might be the issue.
Then, after a minute of idle or so, the exhaust header started smoking…shut it down!
I made a few calls and was told that it was just all the oils and cleaning products burning off the engine. Also, as far as the ticking/lifters go, I was to go out and put my foot on the floor, hitting better than 5k rpms. I didn’t want to even move it but I took this advice, reluctantly. After arming the passenger seat with my halon fire extinguisher, I pulled out of the driveway and made several 1-2 mile pulls hitting the rev limiter in several gears...and wouldn’t you know it, now it purrs like a kitten!
After this break-in run, I changed the oil in the engine, transmission, and differential. I use Amsoil products in my cars and trucks. The results of my oil analysis in other vehicles have sold me on their products. I like Amsoil so much, I am a pending dealer.
- Engine oil: Amsoil 10W-40 (I chose the heavier weight for summer driving and given that it is a higher mileage vehicle, the high zinc formula will help prevent wear.)
- Transmission and Differential: Amsoil SevereGear 75W-90
- Coolant: I added Amsoil Coolant Boost (to better dissipate heat, prevent corrosion, and warm up quicker) to my new fill of 50/50 engine coolant
- Fuel: Amsoil performance enhancer added to first 87 octane fill to clean injectors and lines since these were untouched thus far
Even though it ran excellent, it was not close to being in time. Hats off to Damon and the guys for checking the timing and getting my idle to where it needed to be. Thanks guys, the car runs great!
I checked the engine oil with each fuel fill up, and the level never changed. No leaks! After breaking in the engine the way I did, and then running a stock 5M to redline time after time (to do my best to keep up with the forced induction guys at the NE meet), and travel to and from the NE meet of approximately 960 miles without issue, I would say that this build is a success!
During the travel to and from the meet, I managed to get around 24 mpg. My daily driver has arrived.
A quick engine bay comparison…
The sound of a 5MGE at idle, ahhhhhh...
After Clay bar, ultimate compound, Tech Wax 2.0, Rain repellant on the windshield, and some tire shine for good measure…(Figures I get it shining once home from the NE meet!)
Remaining Punch List: I have a thread started here
- Steering column control replacement (cruise control does not work, and wipers only work on INT)
- Get a replacement Clarion head unit
- Passenger side headlight needs wiring traced to get motor to raise and lower (replacement motor did not fix issue unless replacement motor was defective as well)
- Drivers side fog light support is nonexistent, passengers side fog light is out
- Air conditioning is not working (will replace the compressor, recharge, and pray! )
- Change power steering rack (flushed lines and changed pump, now works but intermittently)
- Replacement of wiper fluid fittings/lines to headlight sprayers (leak badly enough that resovior stays empty)
- Brake fluid replacement and braided lines (got a bit ‘spongy’ during Sat evening run)
- Adjust accelerator pedal as there is a bit of play before opening he throttle body
- Repair rust on sun roof, hatch, and lower exterior trim
- Suspension, intake, exhaust, clutch, etc. will be replaced, when needed, making upgrades as I go.
For those of you who had a hand in helping me with this build, let me sincerely say, Thank you!
05-02-2012, 01:48 AM #9
It is about time for another update!
It has been a while but I have been hard at work. There are always improvements to be made, even on a daily driver! I have been steadily checking off the punch list of items to repair/replace. Here is a quick update on some of the improvements made to my 1984 daily driver.
The Sirius satellite radio never worked well being mounted inside on the dash board. I have moved this to the top part of the hatch, just above the upper wing. (Pic available upon request) This was very easy as you give yourself plenty of slack to slide under the rubber seal of the hatch, over and across the C-pillar, along the top of the headliner trim (this is a simple tuck-in procedure), down the A-pillar, and into the glove box to the module. This is 100% better reception. I wanted to update this in case others wanted Sirius satellite in their ride.
I also added a C3 short shifter and leather TRD shift knob.
I found out what that red wire was leading to the battery, a power wire from a previous poorly installed stereo! I pulled all this wiring and sub-par composite cables and pulled ~ 6 to 8-gauge power wire to the trunk, much improved RCA composite cables, multiple fuses, and distribution blocks back to my sub enclosure and amplifier.
I installed one of my older JL Audio 10W3 D2 dual voice coil subs with an Ebay found 300 watt bridged Precision Power PC275. I have always been a fan of these amplifiers and have two chrome series installed in my 2007 Tundra (Seen here). This sub enclosure has disconnects and fuses so that it can be quickly removed from the trunk for more storage if needed.
I also took the opportunity to install some sound deadening to the trunk. I was definitely not as thorough as the 1J project (link can be found in my signature), but just the right amount, IMO. I cleaned the trunk area and smoothed on some Spectrum Sludge to the spare tire well, the rear wheel wells, and some sections of the rear frame and body pan. This removed some of the normal differential noise and will help with subwoofer tone when the new exhaust gets here (read as foreshadowing).
With the slight upgrade to the stereo, I ran a 4-gauge power wire from the alternator to a new Optima Red Top battery and used the OEM tie down to keep the battery in place. And speaking of the alternator, I installed the 80-Amp Camry upgrade using the Camry pulley and cutting a single rib off the supra belt...working perfectly and much more stable power!
Given that the engine has been ignored prior to my acquisition, I thought it best to change the fuel filter. I also changed the power steering rack for stable power steering again.
The poor suspension needed help as the front struts were blown, 'clunks' were heard often when turning corners, and the brakes were not as firm as they should be...off to work!
Front suspension / brakes:
- KYB upper strut bearings
- KYB GR-2 struts (this is a daily driver, remember?!? )
- OEM springs
- Addco sway bar
- Brembo rotors
- Goodrich stainless brake lines
- OEM calipers
- EBC redstuff pads
Rear suspension / brakes:
- KYB Gas-Adjust shocks
- OEM springs
- Addco sway bar
- TSC strut tower bar
- Goodrich stainless brake lines
- Brembo rotors
- OEM calipers
- Wearever Gold pads
With the addition of the Addco sway bars, the front bar was rubbing the crank pulley. I guess with age, the motor mounts needed changed. I upgraded to the poly GM transmission mounts on each side. Remember to grind the edges of one side so that they sit in the frame 'seat'.
One evening, I almost lost control in the rain, thanks to worn out tires. It was time for new shoes! Instead of paying the inflated prices for OEM size tires, I decided it would be nice to upgrade the look as well.
- Rota RBR wheels in hyper-black: 16 x 8 with a + 10 mm offset
- 25 mm rear spacers to even out the look (this also gives the staggered look but tire rotation is possible)
- Hubcentric rings on wheels and spacers
- McGard black spline set with locking lugs, valve stems, and spline cases
- Kuhmo Ecsta 4X tires in 225-50R-16 (92W) tires
Minus not being able to run the center caps, they are a perfect fit. The tires have excellent grip. I am very satisfied with this setup. I may spray paint the center hubs to match, as best I can, the hyper black wheel since I cannot run the center caps. I kinda like the rugged look, though.
It is time to give the newly restored 5M-GE some attitude. I installed a Rabid Chimp intake kit and added my own Amsoil filter and Amsoil Pre-filter. Aside from some blemishes during bending, the performance of this product is nice, but we are not exhaling any better ... yet.
I contacted George (Raptor Racing) concerning his newly developed 'Stealth' catback exhaust kits. In addition to this kit, I added a new cat and the ever-touted 6-in-1 header! Yes, I was lucky enough to grab one of these beasts as well! The only change to the kit was I wanted a bigger/more quiet muffler. I have had good experiences with Flowmaster, so I opted to use my own muffler and tip.
Current Exhaust Setup:
- Raptor Racing 6-in-1 header
- Raptor Racing modified ceramic core catalytic converter
- Raptor Racing Stealth cat-back piping
- Flowmaster SUV 50-series muffler (PN: 52555) painted with high-temp ceramic black paint (good to > 1500 degrees F)
- Borla 2.5 inch to 2.5 inch tip (In true stealth fashion!)
Comparison pic between OEM and Stealth kit:
The previous owner had broken an exhaust stud at the #6 cylinder location, which had to be extracted. I realized that this car had been in an accident and the header cleared my big Amsoil oil filter fine but was almost touching the newly installed motor mounts. I took a grinder to the edges again and made more room. The cat-back piping is too long when using this muffler. The pipe was cut about an inch or so right as it turned straight to exit giving the muffler + tip enough room to be installed without going past the bumper. This extra material, cut from the pipe kit, was welded to the other end of the muffler to install the borla tip.
The new system tucks under the car nicely:
View after install of the muffler and bumper angle (nevermind the dirty car, I was working here people.):
This exhaust system is just awesome! There is ZERO drone at cruising speed or bumping around town. When you step on the throttle, you get the attitude at deserves. I got several positive comments during the meet on my setup. I could not be more pleased with the results.
For a comparison between the OEM and new setup, check out the video.
I am doing lots of work to the 1J project as well, but there is no way I can get things installed and tuned in time. So I am taking the daily driver to the "Tail of the Dragon" !!
With all the suspension, braking, and engine work, this should still be a great car to try on the twisties! With a little scrubbing, wax and TLC, it is ready for some professional photography (not mine, but the guys along the Tail of the Dragon route).
Here are some pictures with the car loaded up and ready to leave for the 1st annual Tail of the Dragon Supra meet!
We met some really great guys and gals at the meet. My daily driver got as shinny as possible and was trying desperately to hold its own with Mark's car (Memories83). His car is super-clean with great attention to detail! We drove the Dragon several times with the group and on our own. Saturday afternoon we drove the full-loop (120 mile trip) around the area. The skyway drive was beautiful and worth the time! Jamie and I enjoyed our time with Mark and his co-pilot Peter...great guys and good conversation. I put over 200 miles on the car between Friday evening to Sunday morning. If you like to drive your Supra, get to this meet!
Who are these people...get outta the way, you are blocking the car!
A short video of a section of the Dragon...
Once the meet was concluded, the Supra got to wear some trophies as well. I finally added the forum logo to the window as-well-as a decal from a local souvenir shop.
The Dragon can chase this supra, but it did not feel the Dragon's bite. Great Job!
Next year, I hope to bring the 1J to the mountain and add more decals/trophies.
Remaining punch list for the daily driver:
- Strut tower bar (the LJM in the pics was borrowed from the 1JZ project)
- Jim King A/C kit
- Get power to PS headlight
- Fix cruise control
- Begin the needed rust repair (starting with the sunroof, hatch, and rear quarter panels)
More to come, stay tuned...
Last edited by CLToy; 05-03-2012 at 11:12 PM. Reason: Added Video!
05-02-2012, 08:36 AM #10
The car sounded as good as it looked last weekend at the Tail of the Dragon meet.
Great job (but seriously, bring the turbo next time!)
--billyMBlue 82 L - Black 83 P - White 83 P - Brown 84 T - White 85 P - Blue 85 GTS
"ShiftGasm" Shift-Bushing Kits $35 shipped to your door!
2013 "Tail of the Dragon" Meet, April26-27th!
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