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07-31-2011, 08:00 PM #1
heres how easy it is to start an aristo 2jz-gte
4 wires on the small ecu plug to +12v, and 1 pin on the body plug to +12v, then the gnd to the block, the power to the starter. power the fuel pump, and 1 more wire on the body plug triggers the starter. just fired my 2jzgte up today to make sure it doesnt smoke or knock. bought it yeterday. runs great as is other then a couple small vac leaks from vac lines. heres a vid. ill draw up a diagram in paint later and post it for you guys.
07-31-2011, 08:14 PM #2
Told ya it was cake to get it running lol.
JDM 2JZGTE, ITS T67 w/.70ar, HKS 264's, TIAL BOV/44mm WG, Magnafuel 625, 75lb.inj, PRO-EFI 128 EMS, Built R154,6-puck Feramic Clutch, ACT HD PP, True-Trac w/3.73's
07-31-2011, 08:41 PM #3
get it running in the car is a little more work, but I jave no doubts it will be soon.-Jocelyn
P85-6MGE SDR(HKS kit c/w IC and F-Con in a box ) 225KKm, NAL seats, 2.5 Brullen, ACT clutch, LJM, SS lines, Trip Computer. EuroH4 + PIAAs
P85-5MGE SDR had 439KKm (for 17 years my daily runner, RIP...)
2002 E39 ///M5 LMB
07-31-2011, 09:13 PM #4
lol, aside of my Supra, I own an Aristo (aka Lexus GS 300).This message will self destruct
07-31-2011, 09:21 PM #5
all i need to put it in the car is a 1j bh and flywheel for r154 and i could have it in and driving in a few hours. though i wont be doing that. gonna strip it down, do a cleanup port to the head, new valve stem seals and lap the valves, new rings and bearings, new oil pump, water pump, etc..... and sell all the crap i dont need, uncut harness, ecu, igniter, turbos, fuel rail and injectors, water pump setup for the hydraulic fan, maybe even the upper intake and tb. gonna upgrade my ms2 to ms3, go single, use the 780cc/min injectors from my 7mgte, my t56, etc....
when i get more time and am not hurting so bad ill draw up a diagram showing what is needed for it to run and try to add the stuff for the check engine light and gauges etc... i figured out the wiring to run it last night in about 15min on google, then today after my friend got here i set it up to run and started it. waited for him so he could hear it run too.
08-02-2011, 09:26 PM #6CelicaSupra.com Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2003
- De Pere, WI
This is true for pretty much any non VVt-i 2JZ. Battery, Ignition, EFI power for injectors, ect, Main Relay activation, and ground will run the ECU. From there hook up oil pressure, water temp, and tach and you have a driveable swap. Honestly the biggest trick is doing a nice and clean wiring job, I had mine running in a few hours and have since taken 6 years and 5 different projects at cleaning up the wiring, lol. It can be gotten down to 26ish wires total in the engine harness with a standalone.Supra-less.
Empty Spot in the garage.
08-02-2011, 10:49 PM #7
Yeah the wiring is easy, pretty much a walk in a park. Just got to know what you are looking for. The diagrams are fun to build, or at least the one's I've posted have been.
Nice to see you are joining the darkside William.Random House Racing
-1984 Toyota, Celica Supra P-Type Super Red (2JZ-GTE + 74mm) JZA61 History thread
08-03-2011, 06:06 AM #8
well im not gonna run it in the car with the stock ecu and harness. at minimum itll be my ms2 setup, but i plan to upgrade to the ms3 wit hthe expansion board to run full sequential on the ignition and injection, and ill make another brand new harness for it. i have some ideas for it to keep most of the wires hidden. should look nice and clean when i get it done. but i got a long way to go to get it the way i want it. i also want to try and pain my car in the process. engine bay included. so it wont be done any time soon.
08-19-2011, 06:23 PM #9
i made these 2 pics big on purpose guys, i hope they help.
large mk2 ecu connector behind the glovebox
ok, e10 is the only connector here you need to look at. the other 2 are the engine harness.
pin 1 is a black wire with orange stripe. it needs to be connected to ignition switched power. it goes to IG S/W on the stock mk2 ecu plug
pin 31 and 32 are both black with a red stripe. they need to be connected to the main relay. they receive power when the ecu switches the main relay on. the go to B+ on the large mk2 ecu connecter behind the fuse box
pin 33 is white with a red stripe. it gets constant 12v from the battery. this goes to BATT on the stock mk2 ecu connecter
pin 24 is green with an orange stripe which is the wire that triggers the main relay to turn on. this goes to M-REL on the stock mk2 ecu connecter
pin 4 is green with a white stripe. it goes to the stop light switch. i believe this goes to the non powered side so that it receives power when you hit the brakes. only worry about this if on the stock ecu. it will likely tell the ecu when to cut the fuel off for deceleration which should improve gas mileage and driveability.
pin 16 is red with a yellow stripe. it is the tach signal. it will require a tach adapter like the msd 8920 to work the mk2 stock tach. or do the resistor changes needed on the stock tach. there is a thread floating around here somewhere on that.
pin 28 is black with a red stripe and is the main overdrive switch. im guessing this needs to be switched to ground to have overdrive on. i recommend checking this wire while the ecu is switched on before connecting it to anything. if it has voltage to it then yes, it needs grounded to engage overdrive.
pin 34 is black with silver dots on it. this is the ac amplifier. i believe this hooks to the stock ac amplifier circuit so that when you turn your ac on it will engage the ac compressor through the stock engine harness plug and increase the idle. the ac amplifier iirc will turn the ac off if the pressures are too high or too low
pin 23 is white with silver dots is the ac magnetic clutch relay wire. this should be what actually triggers the relay to engage the clutch of the compressor. not sure if this is the one that connects to A/C on the mk2 ecu plug or not.
pin 3 is green with a yellow stripe and is the kick down switch. im guessing the jdm aristo had a gas pedal mounted switch to make the auto trans kick down when you floor it since there is no kick down cable. if your going manual it isnt needed obviously, but if you stay auto, youll need to install a micro switch on the gas pedal or on the throttle linkage under the hood. then again it may drive fine without it. up to you.
pin 6 is black with a yellow stripe and is for the check engine light. it goes to "W" on the large mk2 ecu connecter.
Last edited by williamb82; 08-19-2011 at 07:10 PM.
08-19-2011, 06:32 PM #10
this is the body plug on the aristo engine harness. hopefully you got an engine with the plug uncut like mine.
i cant list wire colors until i can cut a body harness plug out of an aristo at the junkyard. hopefully i can even find one. they dont pop up often.
pin f1 is the starter trigger. this goes to the wire you use to the mk2 trigger wire so that when you turn the key it will start the car.
pin f6 needs to go to the main relay power. since it powers the injectors and coils etc.., might want to use the main relay (+B on the large mk2 ecu connecter)to trigger a separate 30 amp relay that is powered from the battery with its own fuse.
pin f8 is the oil pressure signal wire. if its like most other toyotas, it is the same range as the stock sending unit so should work the stock oil pressure gauge just fine. this goes to OIL on the mk2 ecu plug
pin f9 is the engine temp gauge wire. again, it should control the stock gauge just fine. (its not listed on the above pic, but should be a yellow wire with green stripe on one of the unlabeled pins of that pic.
pins f7 and f11 are listed as grounds. i know they arnt needed for the engine to run. they may be to ground other items that go through this connector, but it wont hurt to ground these wires to the body.
pin c5 says ac_mg. i believe this is the wire from the ac clutch relay that goes to the actual clutch. you could just run a wire through the fender well from the stock mk2 wire into the cabin behind the dash to this, though there might be an easier way, i havent looked into it.
pin d1 is for the oil level sensor. the mk2 doesnt have a light for this, but i highly recommend hooking up an led somewhere with 12v power through the proper resistor and the gnd leg connected to this wire. id put it in the gauge cluster if it were me, and make it bright as possible. this will notify you if your oil level drops too low.
this info is free so you do not owe me anything, but donations are welcome!
Last edited by williamb82; 08-19-2011 at 07:11 PM.
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