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Thread: All Motor 5MGE Build List
09-26-2011, 10:38 PM #1CelicaSupra.com Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
- Tampa, FL
All Motor 5MGE Build List
I've finally decided to forget about the 5M/6M/7MGTE build and stick to what I know best.
This is not only a hell of a lot cheaper than my previous project plan, but about as easy as it gets too.
Here is the build list so far.
- Rabidchimp -
ARP Head Stud Kit
ARP Main Stud Kit
Ceramic Coated Cold Air Intake
OEM Clutch Master Cylinder
OEM Clutch Slave Cylinder
OEM Full Gasket Set
HKS 1.2mm Head Gasket (84mm)
KYB AGX Shocks and Struts
LM1 Wideband A/F Ratio Meter
OEM Oil Pump
OEM Rocker Arms
Ross Racing Pistons (84mm, 10.5-11CR)
Complete Super Pro Bushings
OEM Valve Stem Seals
- Horsepowerfreaks -
ACT HDR6 Clutch Kit
Crower Steel Connecting Rods
Ferrea Aluminum Magnesium Retainers
Jaws Steel Driveshaft
Jun Cam Gears
Kaaz 2-Way LSD
Toyota Axles for Kaaz LSD
Magnecor 10mm Plug Wires
NGK Iridium Plugs
Porterfield R4S Brake Pads
Rotora Drilled and Slotted Rotors
Suspension Tech 1.3'' Lowering Springs
Techna Fit Steel Brake Lines
Techna Fit Steel Clutch Line
OEM Shift Lever Bushing
OEM Shifter Seat
OEM Shifter Gasket
OEM Shifter Boot
Whiteline Front and Rear Sway Bars
- Andysautosport -
Crane PS40 Ignition Coil
Blackworks Red Battery Tie Down
Gude Performance Head Package (Reground Cams, Ported Intake Manifold and Throttle Body, +1mm Valve Ports, Gude Performance ECU, Race Ported and Polished Head)
Flowmaster 40 Series (3.5''entry/3.5''exit)
NRG Red Radiator Cap
Ichiba 25mm Wheel Spacers
Energy Suspension End Links
Blitz Oil Cap
- Autopartswarehouse -
OEM Motor and Transmission Mounts
Comp Cams Assembly Lube
Gates Timing Belt
OEM Wheel Bearings
Mr Gasket Heat Insulator
Taylor Exhaust Wrap
Bosch Distributor Cap
Bosch Distributor Rotor
Russell Red Fuel Line
OEM Coolant Temp Sensor
Beck Arnley 160 degree Thermostat
Gates Radiator Hoses
Bosch Water Pump
Performance Radiator 2 Row Radiator
- Ebay -
W58 Rebuild Kit
- Custom Fab Work -
Strut Tower Bars
Steel Plates for Motor Mounts
3.5'' Aluminum Exhaust from the Header --->
Anyone have any clue as to what kind of WHP/WT I will see? I'm not familiar with how Toyota straight 6 engines react to all motor builds, but I'm sure it would be a fun car.
Thanks for any responses.
09-26-2011, 10:46 PM #2
i can get arp rod bolts if you're interested. http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/sh...-ARP-rod-bolts,5M-GTE 86 5sp cressida certified used toyota edition
09-27-2011, 12:12 AM #3Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
How about a set of extreme cams from Paeco.com. FYI Ross pistons are nearly the heaviest piston set you can get (not very helpful for high rpm). Crower rods? I though those were inappropriately priced. I see little advantage over cheap eagle rods (I'm actually not even sure if these are available). If your not planning to do some kind of itb set up then how about a forward facing intake manifold modification with a larger throttle body? And of course all the fancy electronics to run it.
(Following paragraph about 7MGE)
Really you should save up some money and just but a stage 2 Paeco 7MGE for $6800 and be happy with the 293 advertised horsepowers. Bolts right onto your tranny and into your motor mounts. Get a new TOGA high flow oil pump for a 5MGE and bolt it onto your 7M block with the 5M pan and your set. Also an ATI Damper from Summit for $350 probably a good idea. While your at it grab a CSR Water Pump and save 7 horse and improve you cooling. http://www.autoenginelube.com/ those guys sell a well priced engine oil pre lubber kit that should be OEM on every car period.
ACT Cluches suck.
Raptor Racing Feramic Clutch is the one to have.
Get a set of 48DCO's Ill make you a manifold to mount them. I'd use Brian Crower Retainers Titanium and well priced. Ferrea is some kind of auto fashion bull. Chevy Big Block inner springs are required for crazy cams. Those Kaaz diffs are pricy? I like the True-Trac.
09-27-2011, 02:37 AM #4
Wow, you have an impressive list of parts! You will get a bunch of responses from members with suggestions of much cheaper ways to get much more hp. Don't take it personal, I went that route too, kinda. Building a 5mge rather than the other choices always raises eyebrows. I would guess if you assembled the motor as listed, you might get 175whp, maybe 165 ft/lbs torque. It's not always the sum of the parts, but also how well they work together. My 5mge was bored .040 over, shaved head, some head work, blueprinted cams (mostly stock), 3" exhaust, custom header, 3 ITB setup, SDS standalone, cam gears. I believed I maxed at about 178hp, 186 ft/lbs. Maybe a bit more later with tuning, but not much more. You will have a fun project car, with all the other upgrades too, but it won't make 200hp. What I would do if you wanted to stay with the 5mge n/a route: get a standalone so you can tune (really essential, otherwise your stuff is wasted), larger injectors, probably 250cc units, lighten the crank/rods/pistons as much as possible. You will need to make your power with revs, shoot for 8000rpm or more. Think about the intake system too. If you go ITBs and standalone, get rid of the air flow meter, will let your cams breath better. I should be selling my ITB kit, and SDS standalone in a month or two. Check it out later.
Bottom line though, its your money, spend it how you want. Yes, the True-trac is probably a much better choice for the street than the Kaaz. I have both. Kaaz is a 2-way, I really need a 1.5 way unit but Kaaz doesn't come that way. I working on a solution.
Good luck on the project, it sounds like a fun build.
09-27-2011, 03:45 AM #5CelicaSupra.com Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
- Tampa, FL
Nice. I think the Crower rods come with those bolts but I'll keep it in mind.
I'm not entirely sure I want to lighten up the rotating assembly. I'm more interested in torque than horsepower, so the more usable weight I can get on the crank, rods, and pistons the better. I may knifeedge the crank, but that's about it. I don't think Eagle makes rods for the 5M. I would love to do an ITB setup but I shiver in fear at the thought of doing wiring or any tedious electronic work. Does the 7M intake manifold bolt up to the 5M head?
The Gude ECU has an available a piggyback programmer to run bigger injectors if I need, but I can't find any larger direct fit injectors. How much of a difference does an ITB setup make on the 5M? Again, with the weight reduction of the rotating assembly, won't I lose torque do to loss of rotating mass?
I don't expect 200whp, but I would love to make 200 ft.lbs at the wheels.
09-27-2011, 12:43 PM #686 SDR-"Shuttlecraft" 16" Drag dr-27 wheels, Coilover/AGX/Celica Arms front, Camber Mod/Cut Springs rear, Poly Bushings all around, Whiteline sway bars, 13" bbk front, and 12" bbk rear, Weir Diff bushing, Pacesetter with custom RABID CHIMP mandrel bent 2.5 with Flowmaster resonator, short shifter, 5m-GZE using upgraded sc-14 Toyota supercharger, with Custom RABID CHIMP piping..
09-27-2011, 12:48 PM #7Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
Jens sweet itb set up.
I think the formula for all motor builds is somewhat universal for piston engines. You want the maximum displacement and the lightest possible internals to raise the redline- all to promote more airflow. When I think of Ross pistons I think of a 350 gram weight pulling at like 4gs on the con rods (opposed to 290g CP pistons (educated numbers pulled from my ass)). A heavier set of internals will probably have better inertia and be more street able but if thats what you want then leave the stock flywheel but lighten the engine internals.
IMHO a CelicaSupra with over 200 wheel horse and torques (like Jens ITB 7M) is fun a plenty. A light sports car is like 3000lbs. Seems heavy but only the super light weight cars like lotus are much lighter than that. In my world I don't do that much racing, its the roads and experience im after. nothing like metering out power, transitioning from cornering, squeezing the throttle and holding that last .1 or .2 G's worth of grip... NA engines are required for smooth fast corners in my books.
09-27-2011, 12:56 PM #8
You want 200rwtq? Well, you could spend $5,000 on all that engine crap you've listed there...
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09-27-2011, 01:09 PM #9Member
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- Jul 2006
I agree with billyM ^^
09-27-2011, 02:47 PM #10
honestly, easiest n/a setup would be a 2jzge. they are dirt cheap. custom mounts to make them fit readily available. 240hp stock. port and polish the head, some itb's, header, exhaust, megasquirt setup, and tune. you can run a w58, r154 with a stock bell housing and flywheel no prob.
or just run header, exhaust, intake pipe and filter with stock ecu and prolly never have any reliability issues ever.
the 1uz would be nice, but not as easy. you need a custom drive shaft and custom adapter to fit a 5 speed, custom flywheel, custom headers, etc... the 2jzge would be cheaper overall, though not quite as much tq, but would be a huge improvement over the 5m. easily 100+rwhp over a stock 5m with some breathing mods.
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