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Don's 1JZ Autox Project

72K views 210 replies 28 participants last post by  williamb82 
#1 · (Edited)
Well, after 11 years of fairly serious autocrossing in my '84 Supra, it's come time to retire the 5mge and look for a new powerplant, and thus a new autox class. D-Street Prepared has been tremendous fun, great people and competition, but after chasing higher hp cars for years, the E46 BMW came into the class and has developed into a insurmountable foe. I always felt we had a chance against the E36 BMW cars, but the E46 just has too much power, suspension, options in gearing, all the good stuff. So after developing my car over 10 yrs, going to better suspension bits, custom exhaust, standalone SDS, triple ITB setup, bits of aero, then spinning a rod bearing in 2010, a desperate engine rebuild, then several blown headgaskets, a mostly lost 2010 autox season, a brief 2011 autox season, I decided to go to the "dark side" , that being forced induction, turbo, 1jz land. I've read soooo much on this forum, and several others, before and after buying a 1jz motor/r154 tranny. Not only to keep track of my info, fitments, sizes of parts, I thought it would be good to start a thread,, and keep updating it as I work on each part of the 1jz development/install/tuning. I purchased the motor/tranny and a bunch of other parts from Driftmotion. Aaron is a great resource, and pretty decent fellow. I prefer to get as much as possible from one source, but I realize that its not always possible. Still, DM will have ALMOST everything you could possibly need for a 1jz install.

My Supra when it was still running:


The 5mge motor, with my sorta custom modified OBX header, Extrudabody ITBs, SDS standalone, RC 210cc injectors, going into a titanium 3" exhaust. Great motor, will miss it!


The future:


Before I pull the 5mge out, I wanted to prep the 1jz as much as possible. I started by replacing the hydrofan with a 2jzgte water pump, front seal, rear seal, timing belt. Won't need a/c so that will be removed, and the correct shorter aux belt will be fitted (all parts from DM). My plan is to go single turbo, get good throttle response for autox by staying fairly small on turbo size,
and use a twin scroll, or also called a T4 divided manifold. The turbo initially to be installed came off our Subaru STI when it went larger on turbo size, so the Supra gets the Garrett GT3076R.
Definitely not the biggest nor the smallest I could have used, hopefully a good compromise. I want to rev to 8k rpm, and have useable power as low as 3k rpm. Hp/tq goals probably around 400hp/400tq. Maybe a bit optimistic initially, but we plan to go E85 after the motor is running, and those power goals, especially the torque should be within reach.

Working on the exhaust side of the 1jz first, removed the stock twin turbos, intake piping, here is the before:


Here is the OBX T4 divided manifold loosely fitted to the exhaust studs. Several things became apparent, and took some time. Cheap 1jz manifolds (mostly ebay stuff) don't always fit perfect, and have been know to crack under the stress of supporting the turbo, heat, vibration. The OBX header fit the studs fine, the holes drilled in the mounting flange were ok. Most of the welding on the OBX was pretty good, I cleaned up some spots on the inside of the head with a dremel, but it wasn't bad. Some of the bottom exhaust studs were too long and hit the piping of the header, so I fitted shorter studs on the lower half of cylinders 3,4,5,6. Factory studs were about 52mm long, I used 42mm studs. Thread/pitch for these studs are m10x1.25



The turbo mounting flange on the OBX has 4 threaded holes. I installed 4 studs size M10x1.5 40mm. Will probably use flange nuts to tighten down the turbo. I prefer studs and nuts rather than bolts if possible.

I wanted to install some bracing to the manifold, hopefully to avoid future cracking. So my little welder and I got to work. 2 rods from the manifold mounting flange to the base of the turbo mount, and I utilized one of the factory lower manifold braces, welded a bolt onto one of the pipes, and the brace will go from the block (at engine mount, also a DM product), to the pipe. Hope these 2 pics come out clear.



Next is making up the oil feed line, oil drain line, and water lines into and out of the turbo. The 1jz had stock 2 oil outlets on the block (M12x1.25), one gets pluged, I'll put an adapter onto the other with a -4AN fitting going to the turbo. Water lines likely will be just 3/8" hose coming off one of the nipples at the upper water pump outlet, and returning to a nipple in the lower water pump area. Nothing too fancy. The turbo water inlet/outlet will need a M14x1.5 fitting to 3/8" barb.

Here's how the turbo will look on the manifold:


Once done with the exhaust side, I will start working on the intake side of the motor. I have 680cc injectors with a top feed fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator, and lots of factory hoses to figure out. Later will try to understand the AEM standalone from Driftmotion (DM).

11-16-11
Had a chance to play with the motor a bit. Installed a -10AN fitting at the oil pan, converting from the factory twin tube drain (2 turbos) to a single drain. I'll get a -10AN oil drain fitting for the bottom of the turbo, run a SS braided line.


Got the Fluidampr crank pulley (from DM, just like the oil drain flange above pic too), used the often suggested method of vise gripping an old access belt around a couple pulleys, and beating on the crank nut with my impact gun. 800 ft/lbs gets most nuts loose, just wasn't sure the crank would hold in place. All worked well though!




Stacking the stock 1jz and Fluidampr pulley on top of each other, noted that dimensions are same, the Fluidampr is heavier at 9.5lbs vs the stocker at 8.5lbs. Fluidampr was a very snug fit, had to use the bolt to pull the pulley in, being careful not to damage the keyway, and using some anti-seize of the snout too. The timing marks on the Fluidampr are I believe at 2 degree spacing. So it looked like the line 8 degrees from the first line, corresponds to the stock pulley's TDC marking. Good to know when assemblying motors.



Torqued the crank nut, I guess its really a bolt, to 260 ft/lbs, per the Fluidampr guide. Held the pulley in place again with the visegrips, used my 250 ft/lb torque wrench, then hit it a few times with my impact gun. Called it good.

Till later....

12-27-11 Still moving slowly on this project. Holidays, work, weather, age, but getting some stuff done.
Pulled the head off my 5mge, looks good. Hope to find a good home for it. Very low mileage and got some nice performance mods. Maybe will pull the 5mge block tomorrow. Will see.
Here's a few pics of the sway bar assembly, taken off the car in one unit, including the strut rods, brackets. Gives more room for engine fiddling. The other pic shows how much more room there is with the swaybar stuff gone.



Then I got into the intake side of the 1JZ. Oh boy, lots of wires, kinda tight on room too. Pulled off the intake, stock fuel rail, clean things up a bit, nothing fancy. Installed the DM top feed fuel rail, 680cc injectors. The engine harness is pretty massive. Lots of the connectors are brittle, and broke the clips when removing them. The new injectors require different connectors, and DM supplied them with pigtails, so I had to cut out the stock injector connectors, solder and heat shrink the new connectors in. Made a neat little tool out of a drain cap to hold the wire in place while I did the soldering.




I removed the stock oil filter assembly, with the stock oil cooler system. My plan is to use a external oil cooler, and also plumb in an accusump. So I fitted a sandwich adapter from Canton Products to run SS lines to the cooler and accusump. Learning alot about -AN fittings, braided lines. Not going for the bling (although its all good), I like the durability of the SS lines.


Wish I could have more to share, but not far from test fitting the 1JZ into the Supra, I hope :)

Happy New Year Everyone!

1-2-2012 Ok, got some stuff done. Finished pulling my 5mge out, removed the W58 tranny, rear diff, driveshaft. Bit of work! Plan is to mount the R154 onto the 1jz, and test fit the motor and tranny to the car, install my new diff (1.5 way Kaaz), take a measurement for driveshaft length and order the 1 piece alum unit from Aaron at Driftmotion.

I have to say the hammering of the tunnel was exhausting! Then used the factory scissor jack to push out the tunnel (mostly on the passenger side, just forward of the shifter opening), then a small hydraulic floor jack. This was pretty hard, but definitely achieved some clearance, and need for Advil :)



So we bolted up the tranny to the 1jz (no flywheel/clutch yet, still needs rear main seal replaced...again) for the exciting test fit. It was really hard getting the trany/eng angled steep enough to fit into the engine bay. Besides thinking the engine hoist would tip over (with tranny that thing looked soooo unbalanced), but fortunately didn't, the engine oil pan barely cleared the radiator support while pulling the rear of the tranny downward into the tunnel. The brake lines run along the driverside tunnel (with fuel lines), and also above the to edge of tunnel. Tricky not bouncing the tranny off those.



Finally it slid into place! The DM mounts look like they would work, but I might try to shift the motor more rearward. Tranny seems ok for tunnel clearances, and the speedo cable seems like it will reach the R154 ok. Didn't get the tranny mount on yet, another day. Tranny is supported with a jack for now. The shifter seems to line up well with the opening in the tunnel. The space between the radiator and motor seems tight, has me a bit concerned. Any slotting of motor/tranny mounts to move drivetrain rearward even 1/2" might be useful. I have those nice twin elect fans from Phil, fairly thin overall, so hoping to get them to fit. You can see in this last pic, we jacked up the rear of the car a bunch to get the entry angle of the motor/tranny better. Couldn't do it without! Overall, excited the motor/tranny fits, is currently in the car, not so excited knowing we will be pulling it back out to finish the motor, clutch, seals, then the fun of install...again :)




Getting there!
 
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#194 ·
All of the pressed pipe nipples I am removing from my 2jzgte i am tapping with npt for pipe plugs, but the oil sender, etc... that is already bsp, I have to run an adapter. The sending unit for the Autometer oil pressure gauge is huge, so have to run a hose anyway. a 1/8bsp to 3an adapter is needed and then a custom ss line to run to the sender which I will mount on the motor mount bracket. Got lucky awhile back at a swap meet. Got a MAC tools metric tap and die set, and SAE tap and die set for $100 total. MSRP is near $400 each. Couldnt pass them up!
 
#195 ·
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/s...embly/1984/Supra/6_Cyl_2-dot-8L/A1605170.html

Just ordered an extra axle (remanuf) for the Supra. 15% off till tonight, ends up about $51 plus core (which I am usually too lazy to send back, but I might this time). Core is about $16

I have broken old axles before (the CV joint area) so I have replaced both rear axles already with remanuf units, seems to be doing ok, and feels quieter. Figured a good idea to have a spare unit around. FYI for those pushing higher HP!

Don

edit: having trouble completing my order online, not sure why. Hope they are not out of stock. Will keep trying.
 
#196 ·
I just ordered one of those off Rockauto for ~$75 shipped recently. I'm guessing they just rebuild the old ones with new boots and grease. The fact there was a frowny face drawn on one axle hasn't made be feel easy about it. I rebuilt both of mine, but for some reason one of the joints only bends one way and not the other on one axle. Its not terribly difficult to rebuild the stockers just messy.
 
#197 ·
I assume the balls and cages are inspected and in decent shape on the rebuilds. Mine apparently get kinda abused. Anyway, with the discount I was looking at about $67 shipped with the core already included, but the online ordering was not cooperating so I'm just going to give up for now. Too frustrating trying to get the order completed. If I get the urge will shop around when I get some time. Don't need the axle right now, have 2 used ones I can swap in if emergency. Just wanted to have a fresh unit for travel. Bought from Rockauto before too, seems like a competent source.
 
#198 ·
In my experience, OEM is far superior to a "fresh" unit, even if it is old. The new aftermarket ones (non-rebuilt) especially don't last for shit. Rebuilt ones retain a lot of the OE components, but are still hit or miss from what I've seen. I suspect that the material quality for replacement parts is far below the original Toyota stuff.

I imagine that for rebuild they would mill out the channels and use oversize balls and cages to get the tolerances back into spec.
 
#199 ·
Just a quick post to keep this thread alive. For years I had slight oil leakage around my rear diff, usually from the top breather valve. Not sure if others have this issue, but I imagine at higher speeds this could affect everyone. I bought a Toyota breather nipple, part# TY90404-51026, screwed into top of diff housing, attached a section of fuel line (I think 3/8"), with a new breather cap attached top of fuel line. Hose is zip tied upright. The section of hose still allows pressure release, but also allows more room for oil to spew upward then back down, without leaking all over the underside/diff. Been working well.

diff breather line by toy4speed, on Flickr
 
#200 ·
Great idea! I used to have this problem all the time with the OEM diff whenever I engaged in any "spirited" driving in the mountains - the oil got hot and started leaking out the breather. I recall on one occasion some of the oil got on the hot exhaust, and I had a minor panic attack when I saw all the smoke coming out the back of my car! :eek:

My oil leak problem pretty much went away when I switched to TrueTrac, but it's a good thing to keep in mind just in case it comes back.
 
#201 ·
i mentioned this in my build thread as well, that after a lap or two of drifting it would pee a little out the breather. bill also has this in his build thread as he added a diff cooler and pump to his setup. i spoke to a 4x4 buddy of mine who wheels yotas, and apparently its very common for a wide range of toyotas to have this problem. apparently for 4x4 guys they have an accordion breather valve that when hot, expands, and when cools, comes back down. i had been thinking about doing a cooler on mine and use the internal pressure to move the fluid as i didnt want to add a pump, but i feel having a pump on a switch while drifting would benefit the life of the diff as well as the bearings etc. oddly the 7.5 solid axle diffs in the corollas in my neck of the woods who drift, havent had this issue...or known about it
 
#202 ·
Solid axles hold more fluid, and have more surface area to expel heat.
 
#203 ·
Almost 5 yrs since an update to this thread! With other autox cars coming and going, covid, old age, moving homes, the old Supra has been lacking attention, and some much needed maintenance. I also need to get familiar with posting onto CS.com, especially the posting method for pictures. I certainly enjoy and will contribute on the FB page, but the content on CS.com is already stored and organized into categories, better for reference. Will post a pic here just for testing:
Automotive lighting Hood Tire Automotive tire Vehicle


Oh great! That is so much better than the old Photobucket method and issues! Those are the JP front tow hooks mounted onto my car after sitting in my storage for yrs. Great addition to the car, hopefully won't need them often, but gotta be prepared, just in case. I can at least winch the car into my trailer when things go bad.
 
#204 ·
Hi Don,
I was missing your contributions and am glad to see you return. Are you out of Fremont now?

Stay in touch here, I never go to FB.

David
 
#206 ·
Hi Don,
I was missing your contributions and am glad to see you return. Are you out of Fremont now?

Stay in touch here, I never go to FB.

David
Retired (quit job) 6 years ago, moved from Fremont to Livermore. Still enjoying my cars, just a bit slower paced life now.
Lots of stuff I need to check out on the old Supra. Hard to believe I've had that 1jz in for over 10 yrs now. It's the rest of the car mods I've done that need inspecting. The dual electric fans on the car quit during an end of year autox. Turns out the wiring, inline fuse holder, got corrosion. Might be the source of some of my electrical mysteries. So a bit of electrical updating needed, along with suspension, and brakes are needing too. So much. Hope to share my progress here.
 
#205 ·
Nice. I have those hooks as well but have not installed them. Any chance you have the 3T underpan installed? I am wondering how it looks. I have one of those also and am worried it will need removed to drain the oil.
 
#207 ·
Nope, never heard of a aftermarket underpan for the Supra. Is that a Techno Toy Tuning product? Seems like a good idea though! I haven't had to trailer the Supra for over 3 yrs, so the tow hooks got forgotten during our move. Finding them again was like Xmas! The stuff I have stored and forgotten!
 
#208 ·
Don good to see you are back. I did a 8" diff swap using some of your info for the CV axles from DSS (made my own adapters though).

I have the same hooks they fit way better around FMIC piping.

 
#209 ·
That is a great write up of your diff swap! I only had time to do a quick review, need to sit down a while and read it over more thoroughly! I wish I had the time and energy to pursue a better rear diff solution for my car. I realize my 7.5 diff is like a time bomb just waiting to ruin my day....again. Since I've retired my Supra from autox SM competition, and heading toward a 200tw street class, I'm hoping my drivetrain will hold up better. The DSS axles will eliminate the CV joint breaks, but as you know, many other sources of weakness in the chain. Gosh, I really like your conversion! Tons of work I imagine. Really looking forward to catching up on all the great posts like yours that I have missed and fallen so far behind.
 
#210 ·
Thanks! It's enormously strong now - no issues with multiple track days at 475 wheel horsepower. Now my front brakes though... Might need to add some cooling ducts for the BBK.
 
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