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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Tulsa County, OK
    Posts
    695

    Crank Bolt Came Off! Liquid Wrench Is My Hero

    I have been fighting for a month to remove the crank-shaft bolt on my 5MGE. The engine is out of the car and I tried all the tricks including WD-40, locking the crank with a wedge, locking the flywheel, heat (in moderation), hammering on it for minutes at a time with a 1/2" impact, breakover bar, etc. Last friday I soaked it with Liquid Wrench and let it sit all night, still no luck. I finally gave up and decided I was going to take it somewhere with a 3/4" impact and large compressor and take my chances on breaking the bolt. I even called the machine shop and asked them if they would deal with it if the bolt was broken off in the crank. Of course, I would have to remove the crank from a low mileage engine (not cool). Yesterday after work I went out to the shop and was prepared to load the engine on my trailer and take it somewhere. I thought one more try, I put the impact to it and the bolt immediately came out.

    My lesson in this is that the Liquid Wrench may take time to work and to give it several days if needed. I have removed a lot of crank-shaft bolts in my 35 years of working on cars and I have never seen anything like it. Toyota sure knows how to put them together. :-)

    BTW, I already got a new bolt from Mark.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Owen Sound, Ontario
    Posts
    2,623
    Nice. Pain in the butt to work on I guess but good quality... that's Toyota. haha
    1982 Terra Cotta P-Type
    Need boost...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    wisconsin
    Posts
    162
    couldn't you just spray it with liquid wrench, brace a breaker bar against something, and use the starter?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    nashville tennessee
    Posts
    447
    no because he said it was out of the car. ive never actually had luck with the starter bump. ive always used the rope method. i have done it a number of times. i am just finishing my rebuild and all the valves checked out within spec.

    pb blaster works well. im out right now, maybe this time ill try your liquid wrench!
    www.sparrowmotive.net
    Demoted to rank of Driveway Grass Killer First Class:
    1985 Toyota Celica/Supra 5M-GE 5spd 270,000 miles and ticking( no really the engine is ticking)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Tulsa County, OK
    Posts
    695
    Quote Originally Posted by tyrantfour View Post
    no because he said it was out of the car. ive never actually had luck with the starter bump. ive always used the rope method. i have done it a number of times. i am just finishing my rebuild and all the valves checked out within spec.

    pb blaster works well. im out right now, maybe this time ill try your liquid wrench!
    I really don't know which is best. I was desperate and Walmart came to the rescue with the Liquid Wrench.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    260
    Instead of wasting a month it would have been much easier doing it the right way, using the Toyota Special Service Tools (that OTC handle that holds the OTC dampener holder, and that OTC Dampener holder that bolts into the treaded holes in the Dampener). Once you remove the radiator and all the belts it only takes like half an hour or less to remove the dampener the right way (right tools for the job), same thing with installation (it is not very easy to torque to the required specifications without the right tools).

    There is also a tool that is not OTC, to actually pull the dampener off without damage, that screws into the internal threads of the dampener.

    Removing the Main Crankshaft DAMPER many of the other ways you can permanently damage the Rubber part of the DAMPER (take a guess how I found out) as well a crack the actual Pulley part (were the belts ride in). Not to admit anything, it took almost forever to find another dampener.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    506
    Quote Originally Posted by david View Post
    Instead of wasting a month it would have been much easier doing it the right way, using the Toyota Special Service Tools...

    Now how many of you have access to a bunch of Toyota special service tools?
    85' P-Type 6m/ 5-speed/ White/ maroon leather

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    nashville tennessee
    Posts
    447
    they do have the Toyota sst super center on every island in Hawaii. so I've been told. us main land folk have to pay hundreds at the stealership or make one at home like i did. is easy is you have access to a machine shop. a machine shop could do it pretty cheaply as all you need is to drill a few slotted holes. i can get pics of needed
    www.sparrowmotive.net
    Demoted to rank of Driveway Grass Killer First Class:
    1985 Toyota Celica/Supra 5M-GE 5spd 270,000 miles and ticking( no really the engine is ticking)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Auburn, WA.
    Posts
    5,757
    You can get the pulley holder 2 piece set-Actual holder, and special bracing wrench, for between $100-$200 from internet tool sellers. They fit multiple applications. Google the SST#s. The different brands- like Kent-Moore, OTC, SPX, Toyota-are all made by the same company.
    86 SDR-"Shuttlecraft" 16" Drag dr-27 wheels, Coilover/AGX/Celica Arms front, Camber Mod/Cut Springs rear, Poly Bushings all around, Whiteline sway bars, 12" Homemade bbk front and rear, Weir Diff bushing, Pacesetter with custom RABID CHIMP mandrel bent 2.5 with Flowmaster resonator, short shifter, 5m-GZE using upgraded sc-14 Toyota supercharger, with Custom RABID CHIMP piping..

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Tulsa County, OK
    Posts
    695
    Engine was out of the car, I was putting all of my weight on a 4 foot breakover bar with another bar holding the flywheel.. If the bar had broken it would have really jacked me up. I got to the point I was worried about me, I have another dampener.
    1985 Supra Mk2 P Type, 2JZ transplant patient.

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