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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    St. Cloud, MN
    Posts
    2,911
    Here's the picture for reference:


    The rest of the key is still in the crank, in the larger section that the oil seal is covering. You might be able to get it out by removing the front oil seal, but if you need more room or drop it into the oil pan, you will have to take more apart. I think on my silver 85 I ended up removing the whole lower timing rear case. It would also be a good idea to drain the oil and flush the oil pan out, to get out the metal filings that got into the crankcase while the key sheared and the crank spun.

    To get the rest of the key out of the crankshaft, you need to "roll it out" by hitting one end of it with a metal pin punch and a hammer. Hit it straight down or even slightly angled with the way it rolls in the circular cut. It may help to squirt a little WD40 on it first to loosen it up. It looks like you got lucky and the crank didn't get damaged, so if you can get the broken key out you dodged a bullet. Hopefully by removing the front crank seal you can get it out and catch it so you don't have to take more of the engine apart. Then a new crank seal, woodruff keys, and a lower crank timing cog and oil change should get you running again.

    This is a freewheeling engine, so you can turn the crank for a better angle to work on it without bending the valves. You'll need to retime everything anyway. Oh, and be careful of hitting the radiator while you're working (if leaving it in). You could protect it with a piece of cardboard while you work. Best of luck!

    Dan (DragonLady's husband) *RIP Tyler (2yo son lost to cancer)
    1986 P-type (Ruffian) black 6M 5 speed (formerly Lexusboy's), sitting.
    1986 P type MKII 2tone night blue met/silver met. 5MGE auto, waiting for summer.
    2005 Dodge Magnum Magnesium Pearl - new family car!
    2000 Chrysler Town & Country - Charcoal, family/stuff hauler

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Lake Mills, Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,411
    My monitor is not very good. Is part of the woodruff key still in the keyway of the crank? The pulley? Did the keyways get eaten away by the woodruff key?
    Dave Harrison

    '85 Mark2 7mgte 5sp Isis
    '85 Mark2 7mgte Auto Athena
    '85 Mark2 7mgte 5sp Gaia

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Lake Mills, Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,411
    Nevermind my previous post - I didn't see Dans post before. That pic is better. The crank doesn't look bad if you can get the pieces of the woodruff key out of the keyways. How bad is the keyway on the inside of the pulley? Will you need to replace the pulley?
    Dave Harrison

    '85 Mark2 7mgte 5sp Isis
    '85 Mark2 7mgte Auto Athena
    '85 Mark2 7mgte 5sp Gaia

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    wisconsin
    Posts
    162
    yes i will need to replace the the cog. but i don't have the funds to do it since i stuck about my last 300 into getting it running so i could go find a job. now i need to get the cog but don't have the money to do it. I am stuck. i can probably get the sheared key out but i have nothing to go back on it now.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Pittsboro, NC
    Posts
    1,622
    you got lucky dude. atleast you dont need a new crank like I did....

    ive been in your shoez.... stick with it, save your pennies. she will live once again!
    The Supra is gone... What a fun project!

    Living the Wagon Life! 86 X72.

    New family member, 89 MX83. (temporary DD)

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    wisconsin
    Posts
    162
    anyone have a super cheap crank cog?

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    wisconsin
    Posts
    162
    I can't get the sheared key out. I used a hammer and drift pin and tried hitting the front end of the key to rock it out. but the damn thing isn't budging. Just cutting into the key. Advice?

  8. #38
    Is it possible to get a good hit on it from the back towards the front? Maybe try levering it? wedge something behind a screwdriver and try and carefully add pressure and flick it out?

    Maybe a die grinder? BE VERY CAREFUL AND STEADY IF SO!

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