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Crank seal leaking, might as well replace everything

7K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  rhartmaier 
#1 ·
I am going to try to replace the front crank seal because it is leaking, as well as the cam seals. Can anyone give me some insight into other things I should be replacing? I want to hit everything at one time so I don't have problems down the road. I called my local Toyota and the prices for the timing belt and the tension pulley is like almost 300 for the two. Would you suggest me to use oem toyota parts? I was going to purchase the parts from rockauto unless someone can suggest a better place to get the parts.

Your help is greatly appreciated.
 
#2 ·
you got the 2 front cam seals, oil pump shaft seal, and front crank seal. I would go to an auto zone or oreillys if you have one in your area. i think i remember i paid around $50 all together for all seals and belt
 
#4 ·
I just did something similar with an engine. First question is there any oil on the alternator? Or the area just behind the crank pulley under the alternator? If so, I HIGHLY recommend you pull the engine and replace the "lower timing case gasket" behind the crank pulley/harmonic balancer. While I could replace this gasket w/o pulling the engine, I wouldn't (easier to pull the engine, really).

Things to look at:
Timing Belt
Timing Belt Tensioner (I've had one fail, and have seen several bad ones)
Cam Seals (obvioous)
Water pump
 
#5 ·
By "crank seal" I believe you mean the seal on the timing pulley. Depending on the milage, you probably have a groove worn on the timing pulley. If you just replace the seal it will not stop the leaking. Ask around for a kit that includes the new seal and a thin sleeve that goes on the pulley to give a new smooth surface for the seal. I got one many years ago through my local independent garage. I don't remember the brand. I would say to try Mark at Vancouver Toyota first. Also, it is very difficult to get the timing pulley off as it is torqued to something like 150 lb-ft. I had to use a 1/2" breaker bar with a long pipe slipped over the handle, the tranny in gear with the wheels chocked. Two different air impact wrenches were ineffective. Spray with a liberal amount of Liquid Wrench and let sit overnight first. Good luck!
 
#6 ·
If you don't mind spending the money, go OEM. I offer the parts as well.

Front main seal - http://rabidchimp.com/front-crank-seal-5mge.html
Cam seal (two required) http://rabidchimp.com/camshaft-seal.html
Oil pump driveshaft seal - http://rabidchimp.com/oil-pump-driveshaft-seal.html
Timing belt tensioner - http://rabidchimp.com/timing-belt-tensioner.html
82-83 Timing belt - http://rabidchimp.com/timing-belt-1982-1983.html

I do offer the late model belt as well, but can't pull it up on my site (I'm away from the shop right now).
-Aaron
 
#10 ·
Rich is correct about the timing belt. Renew it and the tensioner while you have everything apart. Should be changed at 100,000 miles anyway. Against the advice of my mechanic I put it off, and it failed at around 125,000 miles. Fortunately I had just left home and was only about three houses down the street from my house when everything came to a halt. I had to call in sick 'cause I couldn't get to work. Oh darn! I was very lucky as no damage was done to the valve train. Also, I have never sprayed my alternator with anything, and it is still going strong at 187,00 miles. Not sure what that is all about, but maybe because I did just what you are talking about and changed all the seals and gaskets on the front of the engine, it is not getting greasy?!
 
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