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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Bayarea Ca
    Posts
    28

    The hatch needs to be slam shut very hard to close and lock

    Hi all, my 83 supra L-type needs to slam shut very hard in order to close and lock, but open nice and smooth with both keys or hatch release. I also WD40 it but doesn't help. I am not sure if its original lock or original hatch but most likely it is. Any ideas?

    thanks
    joe

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Graham, WA
    Posts
    5,076
    Adjust the lower latch.
    -Chris

    1983 Celipra GTS:
    6M bored .50 over. 250cc injectors. Delta 272 regrind cams. Carter HF fuel pump.
    Pacesetter header w/2.5" cutsom exhaust. Open air intake filter. 3" piping to TB. 65mm TB & ported AFM.
    4:10 rear from Supra. BillyM shifter kit. Swapped most interior over to black. T3 camber plates.
    935 Budget Coilover kit. KYB AGX struts. T3 Needle bearing upper perch kit. Eibach Sport rear supra springs. SF Ford TFI Performance coil.
    Almost finished with the fiberglass hatch!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Montréal, QC
    Posts
    5,677
    Yes, loose the 2 bolts that secure the latch, raise it 1-2 mm, secure the bolts and try again.
    -Jocelyn
    P85-6MGE SDR(HKS kit c/w IC and F-Con in a box ) 225KKm, NAL seats, 2.5 Brullen, ACT clutch, LJM, SS lines, Trip Computer. EuroH4 + PIAAs
    P85-5MGE SDR had 439KKm (for 17 years my daily runner, RIP...)
    2002 E39 ///M5 LMB

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Bayarea Ca
    Posts
    28
    oh, that U shape anchor right? its actually adjustable?! Great, thanks guys

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    tx
    Posts
    455
    I had the same problem in my rebuild and the back of the car where the liscense plate goes had been pushed in some from leaning against it when I was working on it. After pushing it back in line the problem went away. To check it I put some bright lights behind the car pointing at the hatch. I went in side the car and if I could see a light gap in the hatch seal I worked on it a little more until it resealed.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Bayarea Ca
    Posts
    28
    thats interesting, i should also try that too. thanks

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Grottoes, Virginia
    Posts
    332
    Watch slamming the hatch hard as i will bust the trim from around your tail lights. Just like i did

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Bayarea Ca
    Posts
    28
    hmm, too late, either the previous owner or i already broke it along the corner., good thing that i fixed the hatch. Just broke the dome light switch; square plastic screw anchor, tail light trim. these cars are so fragile. Start thinking about getting rid of it already, sigh.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Montréal, QC
    Posts
    5,677
    or you are too rough with it, considerinf it's age.
    Don't forget, 29 years old plastic gets brittle.
    -Jocelyn
    P85-6MGE SDR(HKS kit c/w IC and F-Con in a box ) 225KKm, NAL seats, 2.5 Brullen, ACT clutch, LJM, SS lines, Trip Computer. EuroH4 + PIAAs
    P85-5MGE SDR had 439KKm (for 17 years my daily runner, RIP...)
    2002 E39 ///M5 LMB

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Bayarea Ca
    Posts
    28
    i guess, but still, i was just trying to shut off the dome, and that little switch just broke off, probably just reached the end of its life. good thing i found out the ones from corolla fits perfectly, though doesn't look identical but actually more heavy duty

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