Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 32
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    SO SO CAL
    Posts
    165

    just something i found. can it work on our supras?

    i found this on a mazda forum.

    "So easy! It really helps a lot as the TB is a decent sized chunk of metal. Not having it heat up to a billion degrees not only helps underhood temperatures (errr, right?) but it'll make sure the TB isn't heating the air up before entering the engine and potentially robbing you of some power. What I like about it even more than that, however, is the fact that it won't bleed heat into/onto the intake pipe. Big difference on the temperature of the intake piping after being run hard."

    http://forum.mazda6club.com/2-3l-i-4...l#entry1275553
    1984 Toyota Supra 5MGE

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    honolulu
    Posts
    721
    my friends also stats this because it is there for cold climates. so it doesnt freeze up on someone during the winter. Im also thinking about doing this to my car.. now its debating on this thread.
    The 1982 Mk2 Supra in Hawaii! CLICK ON ME!!!
    Things I need
    wideband

    its 4:20

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    baltimore
    Posts
    3,095
    this mod has been discussed before. did that on my 2jzge swap.
    Edgar M.

    85 Two tones P-type 5 speed R.I.P

    84 White P-type 2JZ-GE 5 speed

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    St. Cloud, MN
    Posts
    2,858
    Did it to my 84 back in 2005, and drove my car all winter with no problems. Throttle body never froze up, even in sub-zero temps. I did it because the little coolant hoses were old and started leaking, so I blocked off the feeds with short hoses and bolts clamped in the ends of them. Didn't really notice any power increase from doing it, just nice to get rid of the extra hoses and potential problems.

    Dan (DragonLady's husband) *RIP Tyler (2yo son lost to cancer)
    1986 P-type (Ruffian) black 6M 5 speed (formerly Lexusboy's), sitting.
    1986 P type MKII 2tone night blue met/silver met. 5MGE auto, waiting for summer.
    2005 Dodge Magnum Magnesium Pearl - new family car!
    2000 Chrysler Town & Country - Charcoal, family/stuff hauler

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Graham, WA
    Posts
    5,079
    Bypassed the tb and iscv coolant lines quite some time ago also due to hoses going out, never had an issue from it.
    -Chris

    1983 Celipra GTS:
    6M bored .50 over. 250cc injectors. Delta 272 regrind cams. Carter HF fuel pump.
    Pacesetter header w/2.5" cutsom exhaust. Open air intake filter. 3" piping to TB. 65mm TB & ported AFM.
    4:10 rear from Supra. BillyM shifter kit. Swapped most interior over to black. T3 camber plates.
    935 Budget Coilover kit. KYB AGX struts. T3 Needle bearing upper perch kit. Eibach Sport rear supra springs. SF Ford TFI Performance coil.
    Almost finished with the fiberglass hatch!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    honolulu
    Posts
    721
    that solves it for me. thanks guys!! now i can make the trubo set up look a little more clean
    The 1982 Mk2 Supra in Hawaii! CLICK ON ME!!!
    Things I need
    wideband

    its 4:20

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Mt Vernon, MO
    Posts
    2,063
    This mod hurts performance and mpg. Believe it or not, the Toyota engineers knew what they were doing, and the "coolant" isn't just there to prevent icing in cold weather. You want cold intake air only because cold=dense=greater volume and what really matters is the volume of air you pack into the combustion chamber. But there is another factor these modders are ignoring: volume is a combination of density AND velocity. Air slows down near a cool surface, which can cause turbulence with the faster moving air in the middle of the pipe and the result is less air per second to flow into your manifold. If the surface is heated, the air flows over it much faster and more air per second flows into your manifold. The entire intake pipe isn't heated because a balance has to be struck between density and velocity, but the TB is so small that the air flowing through it doesn't have time to be heated by the surface and become less dense. So, to summarize, the ideal situation is cool dense air flowing over a heated surface.
    Jan. 1982 Blue 'P' type - DD, 6MGE intake/exhaust/17"SquareWheels, etc.
    1982 Terra Cotta 'P' type - 1UZFTE slowly progressing (high comp/low boost corner carver)
    1983 Black P - Rust Weight Reduction Mod :P +400k and in donor status
    1984 Red L - Fixing to make a come-back!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Pittsboro, NC
    Posts
    1,582
    ^ that is a great response.

    i deleted mine because i thought they were a pain in the ass. no trouble so fare.
    The Supra is gone... What a fun project!

    Living the Wagon Life! 86 X72.

    New family member, 89 MX83. (temporary DD)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    honolulu
    Posts
    721
    oooo man WTF DO I DO! LOL
    The 1982 Mk2 Supra in Hawaii! CLICK ON ME!!!
    Things I need
    wideband

    its 4:20

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Mt Vernon, MO
    Posts
    2,063
    well, if your "forced induction", that changes things. In a "normally aspirated" car, air that is close to ambient temp is being pulled through the TB by vaccuum. But with FI cool intake air has been compressed and superheated by the turbo, cooled some by the intercooler, and is now being forced through the TB. Unless your intercooler is VERY efficient, the air temp going through the TB (when boosting) is higher than coolant temp. The velocity of forced air also isn't going to be as effected by surface temp because the other forces acting on it are much higher. A heated throttle body is still better, especially since you aren't boosting all the time, but it doesn't make as much difference as in an NA car. Still, the only benefit to this mod is simplicity
    Jan. 1982 Blue 'P' type - DD, 6MGE intake/exhaust/17"SquareWheels, etc.
    1982 Terra Cotta 'P' type - 1UZFTE slowly progressing (high comp/low boost corner carver)
    1983 Black P - Rust Weight Reduction Mod :P +400k and in donor status
    1984 Red L - Fixing to make a come-back!

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
id=a6141150">